The word “hypoallergenic” is bandied about a lot these days. It is used to describe everything from cosmetics to vacuum filters and even pets! So what does this word mean?
The word “hypo” is from the Greek word meaning “less than”. The word “allergenic” is the adjective form of “allergen”, a substance that causes an allergy. So something that is hypoallergenic is considered less likely to cause allergies than a substance that is not hypoallergenic.
Parents who are concerned about allergies and skin sensitivities in their children often look for the hypoallergenic label on skin creams, shampoos and conditioners. Many would be surprised to learn that, although “hypoallergenic” can be defined, it is a term that is virtually meaningless.
The term “hypoallergenic” first appeared in an advertising campaign in 1953. At that time, many cosmetics contained harsh ingredients that could cause adverse skin reactions. The term “hypoallergenic” was invented to imply that cosmetics with that label would not aggravate allergies.
In the mid-1970s, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) tried to enforce regulations for the use of the term “hypoallergenic.” Its main goal was to create a standard definition that could be both used by manufacturers and clearly understood by consumers. The FDA proposal suggested a requirement that the term could only be applied to cosmetics if they had undergone scientific studies that proved that those products caused a significant reduction in adverse skin reactions.
After being initially approved, much to the chagrin of large cosmetics companies, the FDA regulation was eventually deemed invalid by an appeals court. So consumers were left with exactly what they had before the final court decision – a murky term that could be used by anyone for anything. There is no legal requirement or regulatory standard for the use of the term and no organization certifying its use. Nor is there any medical basis for “hypoallergenic”, which means there is no real way to measure exactly what it should do.
The reality is that in cosmetics (including shampoos and conditioners), the substances most likely to cause irritation are fragrances and preservatives and these ingredients can be found in hypoallergenic products. The most widely used preservatives known to cause irritation are parabens. Other potential irritants include lanolin, formaldehyde, PABA, quaternium-15, 3-diol (Bronopol), 2-bromo-2nitropropane-1, ureas, and wool wax.
To justify use of the “hypoallergenic” label, some manufacturers just skip the perfume. This trend has led to another troublesome label: “fragrance free”. Beware this term. It does not mean that fragrance chemicals are excluded, just that the odor is not perceptible. Many manufacturers use fragrance to mask chemical smells in their products. When fragrance is used this way, the FDA does not require it on a label. Further, the ingredients used to create a fragrance can be considered a trade secret, so they are not always listed on a product.
The bottom line for you as a consumer is this: “hypoallergenic” and “fragrance-free” products cannot be guaranteed to be free of irritants. Other terms to watch out for include “allergy tested”, “dermatologist tested”, “sensitivity tested”, “nonirritating” and “natural”, which, like “hypoallergenic”, have no standards or regulations attached to them and provide no guarantee that allergic reactions won’t result from use of the product.
What’s a parent to do? If you are concerned about the cosmetics used in your household, try to ignore the marketing claims and fancy labels and focus on the ingredients. Although they are not always complete, ingredient lists are your only hope for learning exactly what you are getting inside that bottle or box.