A CAVE, SOMEWHERE IN MIDDLE EUROPE, CIRCA 100,000 BC
A hunter arrives to the acclamation of his fellow cave-mates, for he has brought home a large dead animal. However, he does not allow them to tear into it just yet. He remembers from last year that cooked meat stays edible longer, and that lower heat and longer cooking help preserve it. He has previously constructed a crude mound of stones, open at both ends, but able to be closed off. At one end, he starts a fire, and places the dressed animal parts at the other end, then closes it off. After several hours of cooking, he removes the meat and shares it with everyone, proud of his accomplishment. Not only has the meat been preserved, but the flavor has been unbelievably enhanced. Thus was born not only the process of barbecuing with wood chips but also the world’s first Chef D’ Cuisine… Ooogah Emeril.
The History of Smoking Meat
The history of smoking meat is so old that we can only speculate on its origins. It was well established long before written accounts, possibly even as far back as Homo habilis or Homo neanderthalensis. Smoking meat likely began shortly after the discovery of fire and cooking. Another theory is that Stone Age gourmands discovered that meat could be preserved by drying, and that smoke from the fire kept insects and animals away during the dehydration process. Barbecuing with wood chips is much more recent and easier to achieve.
When the first settlers arrived in America, they faced challenges. They ate a lot of pork, as swine production required fewer resources and less care than beef and chicken. Their supplies were limited, so they tried not to waste anything. When their smoked meat began to spoil, they covered it with spicy sauces. This combination of smoked meat and sauces evolved into what we recognize today as ‘barbecue.’
Smoking preserves meat in two ways: dehydration and the curing properties of the chemicals in the smoke itself. Both methods retard the reproduction of bacteria. Smoking and salting meats were the primary forms of food preservation until the advent of refrigeration.
In the modern world, meat is smoked primarily for flavor enhancement, rather than preservation. As a result, many different types of wood have been experimented with, each contributing its unique flavor characteristics to the food. Here is a partial list of woods that can be used to smoke the most common meats:
- Acacia – Similar to Mesquite, but a bit stronger flavored. Wonderful for beef, red game meats, chicken, turkey, waterfowl, and most game birds.
- Alder – Mild with a slightly sweet overtone. Excellent for fish and poultry. One of the best for salmon, to make Lox.
- Almond – Sweet and nutty. Great for fish, poultry, and pork.
- Apple – Delicate, sweet, and very fruity. Wonderful for pork, ham, poultry, and game meats.
- Apricot – Similar to hickory, but slightly milder. Good for when you don’t want as much ‘smokey’ flavor. Works with all meats.
- Ash – Has a light, clean flavor but burns very fast. It’s advisable to soak the chips in water for several hours and wrap them in foil when using. Works well with most meats.
- Birch – Similar to maple. CAUTION: Make absolutely sure there is no bark on the wood, as it contains tars and oils that will make your food taste horrible and bitter.
- Cherry – Sweet and very fruity. Works great with all meats, even exotics.
- Cottonwood – Mild, subtle, and slightly woody. Works with all meats. A Texas favorite for camp-outs.
- Hickory – The undisputed King of Smoke Woods. Strong, pungent, and smoky. Without hickory, there would be no bacon or ham, and the world would be way less fun. Hickory can be used for all meats and fish, but it really shines with pork.
- Maple – Mild, slightly sweet, with an almost haunting spicy aroma and flavor. One of my favorites for fish, mushrooms, oysters, carp, shark, and vegetables.
- Mesquite – Second only to hickory, strong, earthy, and very woodsy. The absolute best for chicken, beef, and most game. Works great on catfish and carp as well. The favored wood of the Lone Star State.
- Oak – Very heavy, woody-flavored smoke. Great for strong red meats if you want something different.
- Pecan – Similar in character to oak but milder, sweeter, and a little less ‘woody’. One of my favorites for chicken and fish, but it also works well on beef, game, and pork.
- Walnut – Heavy, oily, bitter smoke. Some people like it for strong-flavored game meats like elk, bear, and moose. Personally, I think it makes the meat taste like furniture, but to each his own…
Barbecuing with wood chips is easy. If you have a smoker, just start your coals in the smoke box. There are two ways to use wood chips: you can soak them for several hours in water and then lay the chips directly on the coals, or you can wrap them in foil, punch holes in it, and place the whole package directly on the coals. You can even combine the two methods. Whichever method you use, adjust the air vents so that the temperature stays between 225°F and 250°F. Never go higher than 250°F; if you do, you are not smoking meat—you are just cooking it. For most meats, you’ll want to let it smoke for 10 to 12 hours or longer, depending on what you are cooking. Check the smoker often, replacing wood and coals as necessary. Monitor the process closely, and do not baste or spray water on the meat, as this will interfere with the smoking process. However, you can brine the meat before smoking it, which can create some very memorable cookouts. You can eat it as is or turn it into barbecue by basting with your favorite sauce during the last stages of cooking.
If you don’t have a smoker but have a barbecue grill, simply start your coals under one side of the grill, add the chips, adjust the temperature, and place the meat on the other side, away from the direct heat. If you only have a Hibachi-type grill, you can still capture some of the character of true smoked meat by using the smoke wood as coals and cooking directly over them.
There are methods for smoking meat in a regular oven, but I strongly advise against this. To smoke meat, you need actual smoke, and few people want their kitchens (or the rest of their house) filled with smoke. Even with a blower, the smoke will flavor your stove and home for weeks, and everything you cook will carry that flavor. Simple smokers are inexpensive and can even be made from discarded 55-gallon oil drums and other cast-off materials. I’ve made perfectly good small smokers out of an old large metal coffee can. Your only limit is your imagination.
There is nothing on the planet that can equal the culinary experience of well-smoked foods and expertly crafted barbecue, in my opinion. If you’ve never tried it, I highly recommend that you do, at least once. You may never be the same again.
Bonus Recipe: Ocoee Smoked Turkey
With the holiday season upon us, I feel compelled to include a bonus with this article. Here’s my personal recipe for smoking a turkey. You’ve never had turkey like this!
Ocoee Smoked Turkey
This recipe makes a tender, juicy turkey with subtle fruity overtones.
It’s important to select a good turkey for smoking. Fresh-killed is best (wild), but if you have to buy one, make sure it has no injected oils or additives. Smaller turkeys are better than large ones. A 20-pound turkey can take 15 hours or more to smoke, and larger birds come with an added risk of food contamination. It’s better to smoke 2 or 3, 10- to 15-pound turkeys than 1 large one. Always use a meat thermometer to ensure the turkey reaches an internal temperature of at least 165°F.
For the brine:
2 quarts water
2 quarts apple juice
1 cup salt
½ cup brown sugar or maple syrup
10 whole cloves
10 whole peppercorns
Dissolve 1 cup of salt in 2 quarts of water. Do not add any other spices until the salt is dissolved. Heat on the stove until boiling, then add brown sugar or maple syrup and dissolve. Remove from heat and add cloves, peppercorns, and apple juice. Allow to cool.
While it cools, rinse the thawed turkey well with clean water. Remove any excess skin, entrails, ‘pop-up’ thermometers, etc. Pat the turkey dry.
When the brine is close to room temperature, place the turkey in a basting bag and pour the brine over it. Add water if necessary to ensure the turkey is completely covered. Seal the bag tightly and place it in the refrigerator for 12–14 hours, turning it every few hours.
After the turkey has brined, pat it dry inside and out. Start your smoker (I use pecan or mesquite wood, but you can use any wood you like). For a lovely, crunchy, brown outer skin, brush the bird with olive oil several times during the smoking process. Smoke the turkey for 10–14 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches at least 165°F. It may have a pinkish hue, but don’t worry—it’s from the smoke, not undercooking. As long as the internal temperature is 165°F, it’s done.
Slice and serve with sweet potatoes, squash, mashed potatoes, and anything else you desire.
