It’s safe to say that everyone in the U.S. is aware of the explosion in the wine market and the consistent addition of wineries in places where, years ago, you would have questioned their viability. Napa and Sonoma have long been considered the U.S.’s “Wine Country.” Ask anyone from that region about other states and their wines, and you’d often be met with a quizzical expression that seems to say, “Why bother?”
The Rise of U.S. Wine Regions
In the early years of wine-growing in the United States, the wineries in Napa and Sonoma worked tirelessly to gain recognition in European wine societies. The European wine market once looked at the U.S. wine industry as an afterthought—until 1976, when a California wine took first place in the historic Paris Wine Tasting. In this blind tasting, a panel of French wine experts chose Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars wine, making California’s wine industry famous.
California’s wine region quickly began to grow, especially in the late 1970s and 1980s. During this time, many Northern California wineries were small, personal, and had an “artsy” feel. There were no long lines of traffic seven days a week, no overcrowded tasting rooms, and, most importantly, it was usually the owner/vintner who poured you a glass of wine, with love for their craft clearly visible in their eyes and words. You had entered the world of their family.
The Shift Toward Larger Wineries
Today, those days are mostly gone. While wineries continue to pour their hearts and souls into their wines, many are now so large that the process of creating wine has become less personal. The majority of wineries today are mass-producing grapes of all varietals, which are sold to other wineries or production plants. If you’re lucky enough to make your way to the tasting bar, you might be served by someone who has never even stepped foot in the vineyard.
Wine production has become big business, attracting investors. For instance, this year Donald Trump purchased a large winery in Virginia as an investment. As an owner, do you ever expect Mr. Trump to pour you a sample and explain the growth and development of the grapes that produced the wine?
A Personal Experience
But don’t fear; there are still wineries around the country where the owner/vintner greets you at the door, welcoming you to their little tasting room. This is what defines a “Boutique Winery.” A Boutique Winery is a small winery that serves a few high-quality wines at prices that accurately reflect their value. When you arrive, you’ll immediately feel as though you’re entering someone’s home. You’ll be greeted by family members who are proud of the wine they’ve created.
Even these small operations sometimes mimic their larger competitors. You may still find yourself guided to a separate tasting room, away from the house, but the atmosphere remains cozy. Some may even find themselves tasting wine in a barn. Regardless, what matters is that you’re tasting wines created with personal time, care, and love. When you leave, you’ll take with you a piece of their family in a box of wine, and likely many more memories to share with friends.
Examples of U.S. Boutique Wineries
One example of a boutique winery in the U.S. is Devitt Winery, located in Jacksonville, Oregon, in the historic Applegate Valley. Jim Devitt, owner and winemaker, learned his craft in Napa County, where he built a successful business with his boutique winery. After relocating to Oregon, Jim started his small wine production business in 2003.
At Devitt Winery, you won’t find fancy parking lots or grand tasting centers. Instead, you’ll park in Jim’s driveway and might find him in the barn tasting room or wandering the farm. When you meet him, you’ll know right away that he’s devoted his life to the grape. He’ll pour you a glass of his select wines—like “Precipice,” a wonderful red blend, or his Cabernet Franc—while telling you stories of the winery’s history. Jim’s motto is simple: “It’s about each barrel, and what it takes to make that barrel special.”
Another excellent example of a boutique winery is KAZ Winery in Kenwood, California, located in Sonoma Valley. This family-run business was started by Richard Kasmier, who began planting vines in the 1980s. He was one of the first to use organic practices in the valley. The tasting room, called “The Barn,” is a small, cozy room where you can meet the owner, winemaker, and vineyard manager. Richard’s background as an award-winning photographer is evident in his wine labels, featuring beautiful, photograph-quality images. The wines themselves—like “Hooligans,” “Kahunas,” and “From the Barrel”—are just as memorable as the experience.
Another example of a boutique winery is Vitae Springs in Salem, Oregon, located in the Southern Willamette Valley, known worldwide for its Pinot Noir. Owned by the Van Volkinburg family since the 1970s, Vitae Springs has grown over the years to produce four varietals: Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and a small batch of Gruner Veltliner. The tasting room is managed by Joel’s wife, Michelle, and is usually guarded by their friendly yellow lab, Gunner. Michelle will greet you like an old friend, and when you leave, you’ll already be thinking about your next visit.
Please note that Vitae Springs’ Gruner Veltliner is produced in small batches, so it sells out quickly. Consider yourself lucky if you get a chance to taste it.
Finding Your Winery
These intimate “Boutique” wineries are scattered across the U.S. wherever vineyards exist—you just have to find them. The best way to discover them is through the internet or word of mouth. When you find one that truly resonates with you, where you fall in love with their wines, be sure to pass the word along. Boutique wineries are in demand more than ever, so seek them out and enjoy their offerings.
