The situation may be brought on by a trip to the vet or a front door left open, but the worst of nightmares begins when a beloved four pawed family member escapes or goes missing. If you have never encountered this situation, the experience can be quite a shock. For many of us it can be paralyzing at a time when we need to be on our best game. It is a time for action when you may feel the need to curl up and just cry. Below is a list of the most immediate activities to pursue when first you realize your cat has escaped or is missing.

First Response Protocol…

A step by step list

Relax and don’t panic… but also don’t wait to start looking. Statistics prove that pet owners with the greatest likelyhood of recovering their pet start looking immediately and have an organized approach. Be one of these pet owners.

Ground Zero Property Search: Make sure your pet is really missing. If you did not see him or her escape or do not know of anyone who did, take the time to do a quick search of your property and the most obvious hiding spots before bolting for the front door to look. With cats you need to take a little longer with your ground zero property search as a cat that is feeling poorly can be right inside the house hunkered down and feeling miserable. Think dark and concealed spots that are out of the everyday traffic pattern of your home or property. Check your home, yards, garage, outbuildings, shed, barns, etc.

Preparing to search:

What to bring: You can gather this in 5 minutes or less. A better idea is to have all of this prepared ahead of time and stored with your Pet ID kit*. You can also have some one else do this while you do the ground zero search.

• Full body photo of cat – preferably taken from the side
• 20 cards with 24 hour phone number & the words LOST CAT
• Treats
• Carrier
• Whistle, squeaky toy or clicker if pet has been trained to one or thinks they are fun and will respond.

Immediately, grab your pet’s ID* kit with photo. If you do not have an ID Kit* or have not finished the identification requirements, grab a photo of your pet and a business card with your phone number on it. If you don’t have a business card or if the card does not have a phone number on it that you will answer 24 hours a day, take a yellow sticky, index card or any scraps of paper and write your cell phone number on them with the words LOST CAT. Make at least 20. Don’t forget the carrier and treats in case bribery is necessary. There is something in your refrigerator that will work in an emergency. Hot dogs, last night’s dinner, bologna, cheese, tuna fish may all work in an emergency. A missing pet is an emergency.

Bring in the troops: This is the time to call in your friends, family and neighbors. If possible, recruit those who will be supportive in your efforts and understand your concern and attachment for your pet. Call in your supportive friends and not the naysayers… you need to keep yourself focused and energized in your efforts.

Make it easy for the pet to return: Leave someone at the point of escape or your home in case pet returns. If no one is available leave a gate open, back door, car door, crate or something that pet is familiar with and may want to stay near. In the worst case and with nothing else to leave, take off a piece of your clothing and leave it at the front door, near the gate or on the front porch.

Head for the door and begin to search the surrounding neigborhood or area.

Searching for a Missing CAT in the first hours

Choose a Direction: If you know in which direction the cat went, go that way, (and forget the ground zero search as you know he’s out). If you are not sure of the direction and your cat has got out before, go in the direction he went the last time he got out. If you have no idea what so ever, go to the spot where you think the cat escaped and assume he went right. This is a percentage call because cats, like dogs, turn to the right more often than they turn to the left. If however, there is something scary to the right or something is blocking the way then choose another direction.

The cat that lives indoors or bolted in fear

Cats will bolt in a direction and tend to stay straight. Cats tend to run under cover, up against houses, bushes or fences if they are frightened or tend towards skittish behavior. When frightened all cats will bolt towards cover so if your cat lives indoors all the time or was most likely scared, look for cover that the cat could have traveled along. Think in terms of straight lines for direction of travel.

Get down on you knees and look from a height close to the level of your cat’s eyes, (about 18 inches is fine). You will be surprised at how different the landscape looks from this vantage. Look for obvious cover and things a cat could get under. Also if the cat has escaped before, retrace the direction he ran towards the last time.

The cat that has access to the outdoors and occasionally or regularly is let outside

When a cat that has regular outdoor access does not come home as usual, the highest probability is that something has kept him from returning. There is myriad of situations that occur in this situation but one usually must assume it is an incident of some sort. Male cats and females in heat may go wandering on occasion but there is usually something that will alert you to a change in behavior beforehand. If your outdoor access cat goes missing, it is necessary to consider an event or situation has occurred that is keeping the cat from returning as has been his or her routine.

Neighborhood QUIK search

Easy to remember formula:

5 for 2 no more than 1 in 12 (explained in the paragraph below)

Look within a radius of five houses for the first two hours using the techniques mentioned. If after two hours there is no resolution, expand your search spiraling out from the point last seen as the center of the spiral. In the first twelve hours it is generally not necessary to go more than one block in each of the eight compass directions.

Calling for your cat: One of the most difficult parts of a search is trying to remain calm when you feel something may have happened. As you call your cat it is important to use your inside, affectionate voice. When we are stressed or trying to project our voice, we put tension in our voice which most pets perceive as something wrong. Always use a low, soft voice and affectionate clicks and noises you use regularly when playing or talking to your cat. Screaming or yelling a cat’s name is not effective and sends most cats further away in panic. Most of us have funny, affectionate or maybe even goofy pet names we call our beloved pet… this is the time to use them.

• Call the cat’s name but stop to listen…
• Call… listen (pause to count of 10).
• Call (pause to count of 10)… listen.
• Continue calling in the areas you feel are more probable and likely for your cat to explore or hide in.

Remember to use your indoor, happy affectionate voice like you want to play or give affection.

Talk to everyone you see…

As you are looking, show your cats picture to everyone. Remember to leave them one of your telephone cards or premade flyer from your PET ID Kit*. Askeveryone you see outside, “Have you seen this cat?” Listen for their response but do not stop to chat unless they have recent information about your pets disappearance.

When you see your cat

When you see your cat, do not give chase but slowly go to your knees and encourage the cat to approach. Try these techniques:

• Drop to your knees and use your inside voice. If your cat stops, encourage him to approach. Offer a tidbit or treat if you have one.
• If the cat is running develop a strategy to “head him off at the pass”. Intersecting an animal’s forward direction is better than flat out sprinting behind. Angulation in the direction you think he or she will go is more effective.

Follow your leads and sightings until you either find your pet or run out of clues and sightings. If you go over three hours with no sightings or clues, head back to the point of escape to update and design a more formal search strategy with public awareness, development of witnesses and effective activities that are more likely to lead to a reunion with your pet.

A quick call to a licensed professional, skilled in missing cat behavior and scenarios, is time and money well spent. Experience has proven that pet owners who use the services of a professional at the onset of the their search, are rewarded with a faster recovery time. A well planned strategy with input from a professional, is an effective tool when a beloved cat goes missing.

*A PET ID Kit is a preventive measure, strongly recommended by Karin for pet owners whose dogs and cats are members of their families.

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It’s becoming increasingly popular to bring your pet on vacation. With pet-friendly hotels and the welcoming nature of long-distance relatives, you might find yourself traveling with a cat more often in the upcoming years. That is, of course, if you can figure out how to prevent the shrieking yowl that has the kids covering their ears and begging for the first rest stop within half an hour of leaving the driveway. It can be enough to make you turn the car around.

Tips for a Smoother Journey with Your Cat

Fortunately, there are numerous little tricks you can try before your next road trip. However, not all disgruntled felines will take to anything other than their beloved home, and you may want to consider the quality of the trip overall for those who refuse to be comforted.

To rule out general dissatisfaction and loneliness as the main cause for the ruckus your cat insists on creating, try keeping the carrier (he’s in a pet carrier, isn’t he?) close enough so that a human he really likes can reach in from time to time to reassure him that he’s not alone. For some cats, this is really all it takes. Others, however, seem to demand their own personal suite for the next trip.

Cats are truly unique creatures. No two are alike, and their personalities can range from dog-like companionship to aloof beings who only show up for food and the occasional scratch on the head. How your cat relates to you—and how much interaction he prefers—will partly determine how well he handles traveling as your companion.

Cats should always go inside the carrier. Even lap-friendly cats, who are more than content to roam around the car while you rack up the miles, need to be confined for their own safety. Some cats may go crazy at the mere thought of enduring a car ride. These cats are usually better off being left at home or sedated if the trip is unavoidable.

Keeping your cat safe is the number one priority. Cat carriers, hotel rooms with pet privacy (which is nothing more than a “Do Not Disturb” sign and the option to refuse housekeeping services), and some form of safe confinement while you’re out of the room are essential. If you’re staying at a relative’s or friend’s house, you’ll still need to ensure that your cat can’t escape—especially if there are other animals in the house.

Keeping your cat happy while also keeping him safe is no easy task. He needs to be confined, which can be torturous for a cat who hasn’t yet adjusted to the carrier. Introducing him to the idea of the carrier well before the trip, for random periods of time, is highly recommended. Traveling with a cat becomes much easier when your feline companion has a basic understanding of what’s going on.

The actual act of traveling—whether by car or by plane—is undoubtedly the hardest part of the trip for 98% of cat companions. Some cats can be comforted through the bars of the pet carrier, while others may claw, bite, or scratch at any fingers attempting to offer comfort. How he handles his fear will determine his actions. Never let children try to comfort the cat until you know how he will react.

Other cats may be more content with a few familiar toys and belongings scattered throughout the carrier. Some prefer to be completely covered—a blanket over the carrier works well for the kitty who doesn’t want to see the world rushing by. Others are more interested in their surroundings and feel the need to peek out the windows of the car to maintain a sense of control. Finding what works best for your cat is a matter of trial and error. A few short trips in the months leading up to the big trip will help you figure out what works best.

If your cat requires regular use of sedatives before a trip, you may want to reconsider whether travel is truly better for him—or for you. Sedatives should never be administered lightly.

If you know you’ll be traveling with a cat from the start, begin car training him as early as possible. Small trips here and there (never leave a cat unattended in the car, especially in hot or cold weather) will help him get used to the idea of traveling from the very beginning.

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What is a Microchip and how does it Help My Pet?

Like the name suggests, a microchip is a teeny-tiny computer chip, about the size of a grain of rice, which can be injected below your pet’s skin. The chip has a unique number that identifies that specific chip. When a chip is assigned to your pet the chip’s number becomes your pet’s identifying number.

Much like your food products are ran across the scanner at the grocery store and their UPC codes give you the information you are looking for on that product, a special scanner is used to scan the pet and read the information that is contained on the chip. The scanner uses low frequency radio waves to read the information on the chip.

This information stored on the chip is only the serial number; the important identifying information for your pet is kept in a database that the chip manufacturer keeps updated. This database can be checked when a lost pet is found, to find out who the pet belongs to and any other pertinent information about the pet.

How is a microchip inserted?

Since microchips are tiny they are able to fit into a preloaded syringe, like those used for vaccinations. These are then injected into the pet between the shoulder blades. The injection takes seconds and is comprised of sterile water and the chip. The needle is a fairly large gauge to allow enough room for the chip to pass through. Most animals don’t notice being microchipped although, due to the size of the needle, smaller animals may feel the injection for a couple of seconds and be tender around the injection site for a few days.

Risks can include infections at the injection site just like any other injection. It is rare that infection occurs but if it does you need to keep the area clean.

What do I have to do to have my pet microchipped?

Having your pet microchipped is easy – you just request it from your vet or you can have it done at a local shelter. Many shelters are not allowing pets to be adopted without chipping them. This gives them a clear picture of how many pets are bounced back into the shelter.

Once the chip is inserted you need to contact the manufacturer and register the chip. Most give you the ability to add information and even a photo of your pet in case your pet is lost.

Drawbacks to Microchipping a Cat

Well, one drawback for the cat is he may have difficulty finding fourteen owners to feed and praise him as he nonchalantly wanders from home to home making everyone believe they are his one and only.

Ok, your cat will most likely still be able to pull off the ‘multiple owner cruise’ if he wants to. Most people won’t bother to take the time to scan stray cats to check to see if he has another owner.  Since the chip isn’t meant to keep the cat honest this isn’t usually a problem.

Drawbacks to the Microchipping process include the many companies that offer microchips. There isn’t a standard chip so it is possible to chip your pet and still have issues with losing the pet and not having it identified. Different chips need different scanners to read them. Most are using the same types now; it is older chips that are an issue.

The biggest drawback to Microchipping your pet is many people forget to register their microchip. If the microchip company only has a record of whom they sold the chip to, and not whom it was inserted in, the database won’t help your pet find his way home.  Too often a lost pet is found, scanned and the vet or shelter that bought the chip is the only information that was entered in the system.

Do indoor cats need to be microchipped?

All pets can find their way outdoors and get lost. It is important for any and all pets to have proper care and have a security system in place that gives him a way to be found and returned to you if something happens.  Some shy cats can get out and become too fearful to return to you for fear of being caught or harmed by others. If your indoor cat gets out and becomes lost having him microchipped can help him to return to you quickly.

Is Microchipping the only protection your pet needs?

Many pet owners allow themselves to believe that a microchip is the only pet identification system that your pet needs. Everyone can look at your cat’s tags that are hanging on his collar to see where he lives. Not everyone has access to a scanner. If your cat gets out of your home and becomes lost he has a better chance of returning to you if he has identification tags and a microchip.

If your cat is an outdoor cat your neighbors can assume he is a stray and ‘adopt’ him as well. In little to no time a friendly cat can find himself a whole neighborhood of owners. Microchipping a cat is not going to keep him from finding new owners in his neighborhood who are willing to care for him and even take him along when they move. If your cat is wearing a collar that clearly labels him as being a loved pet and not a stray.

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• Abyssinian. These shorthaired, slender cats have a tabby coat pattern similar to wild cats which is usually a ruddy color, but they can also e found in red, blue, and fawn. They are active, playful, and inquisitive.
• American Bobtail. These cats are named after their tails, which are about half the length of the average cat’s tail. It is a similar genetic trait to the Manx.
• American Curl. This breed gets its name from their ears, which are curled backwards. They come in a variety of color patterns, as well as long and short hair. They are as affectionate as they are energetic.
• American Shorthair. These stocky, even tempered cats come from Native American working cats. It is best known as a silver tabby.
• Angora. These British felines are the Oriental Longhair’s counterpart, which are long haired Siamese. They have similar temperaments to the Siamese, as well as coat patterns, with the exception of the long hair.
• Bengal Cat. These well muscled cats resemble leopards or tigers. They are the result of a cross between the Asian Leopard Cat and a domestic one. They are large, loving, and loyal.
• Birman. These cats have numerous legends associated with them. They are semi-longhaired, and come in a pointed coat pattern. It is also known as the “Sacred Cat of Burma.” It has a stocky body and four white feet.
• Burmese. These medium sized, muscular and compact cats are extremely people orientated. They come in sable, champagne, blue, and platinum colors.
• Bombay. These cats have sleek, glossy, black coats with copper colored eyes. It was developed from the Burmese breed, and retained the playful and loving temperament.
• British Shorthair. This stocky cat resembles a teddy bear. This calm and quiet breed is usually found in blue, but all other colors are possible.
• Chartreux. Originating in France, this old, natural breed was said to have been raised as a companion by the Carthusian monks. They are famous for their wooly blue coats and orange eyes. They are quiet and even tempered.
• Cornish Rex. The Cornish Rex is known for its soft, wavy, curly hair: even the whiskers curl. Its coat feels like crushed velvet to the touch. They originated in Cornwall, and have a racy, slender body, and are found in a wide variety of colors and patterns.
• Egyptian Mau. This cat bears a striking resemblance to paintings of ancient Egyptian cats. They are active, athletic cats with a spotted tabby pattern that resembles wild cats. They come in colors such as bronze spotted, silver spotted and black smoke.
• Exotic Shorthair. The Exotic Shorthair has the body and head type of the Persian, but has a short plush coat. The breed was developed by crossing Persians and various shorthaired breeds. Exotics are available in the same colors and patterns as the Persian breed.
• Himalayan. These stocky cats have long hair, and placid temperaments like that of the Persian, but is pointed like the Siamese.
• Japanese Bobtail. The Japanese Bobtail has existed in Japan for at least 1000 years. It is distinguished by its naturally short tail, which resembles a bunny tail. The most commonly seen Japanese Bobtail pattern is the tri-color, which is white with red and black. They have both long and short coat varieties.
• Korat. These beautiful cats are well known for their silvery-blue, sleek coats. They have heart-shaped faces that are dominated by gooseberry-green eyes. They originated in Thailand, where they are regarded as good luck.
• Maine Coon. The Maine Coon is known for its large size, easy-going temperament, and rugged appearance. The breed is native to New England, and is well-adapted to harsh climates. They have a heavy, shaggy coat, bushy tail, and tufted ears and toes. Though the brown classic tabby pattern is perhaps the best known, Maine Coons are available in a variety of colors and patterns.
• Manx. This cat is distinguished by its missing tail. This natural mutation is thought to have originated on the Isle of Man, hence the name, Manx. Manx cats are stocky and rounded in appearance, with short backs and long hind legs that make them appear rabbit-like. The thick coat can be either short or semi-long. Manx are available in a variety of colors and patterns.
• Oricat. This small cat looks like a wild, spotted cat. It was created by crossing Siamese, Abyssinian, and American Shorthairs. “Ocis” are active, affectionate, and very social. They are available in various patterns, though only the spotted patterns may be shown, and in several different colors.
• Persian. The Persian is perhaps the most widely recognized cat breed and has the most registered numbers. The Persian is known for its extremely long, fluffy coat, very stocky body type, round head, large eyes, and flat face. Persians have a sweet and gentle temperament, and are among the most placid of all breeds. They come in many different colors.
• Ragdoll. Known for its docile temperament, the Ragdoll is a large, semi-longhaired cat with a pointed color pattern. They come in seal, blue, chocolate, and lilac colors.
• Russian Blue. The Russian Blue is a natural breed thought to have originated in northern Russia. It is noted for its short, plush, silvery blue coat, brilliant green eyes, and semi-foreign body type with long legs and body. This is a graceful, playful breed with a quiet temperament.
• Scottish Fold. This breed derives its name from its distinctive ears, which are folded forward and down, and by its large, rounded eyes, which give it a sweet, wide-eyed expression. They are mellow and affectionate cats. Scottish Folds are found in both longhair and shorthair varieties, in a great number of color and pattern combinations.
• Siamese. The Siamese is distinguished by its brilliant blue eyes and its colored “points” (ears, face, tail, and feet), which provide a striking contrast to its light-colored body. This is a demanding breed, which is quick to voice their opinion. It is lively, and affectionate.
• Sphynx. This hairless breed is actually covered by a soft down. Because the Sphynx lacks hair to absorb natural skin oils, it must be bathed frequently. Despite the lack of hair, coat color and pattern are visible in the downy coat and the underlying skin.

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The one I have seems so completely in love with me that it would almost seem like a smack in the face to him if I showed up with another little buddy. Granted, he’s young, so he might take to another cat well, but why would I want to do that to him?

Working, friends, family time, and, of course, all those little errands and last-minute details of life tend to tie me up longer than necessary. I always feel as though I’m just short of that extra hour I keep asking time to install in a day. I doubt I will ever get my request met. Those precious few days that I have to lounge about and just be are becoming even fewer, and who can slow down when the weather outside is still so beautiful?

Sometimes, I feel guilty because my furry friend at home doesn’t seem to be getting enough of my time and attention. Someone recommended that I get another cat, someone to keep him company when I can’t give him the attention he deserves. But ultimately, I don’t want to hurt his feelings. He is my little prince, after all. Wouldn’t he want to keep it that way?

The Dynamics of Adding a Second Cat

A little research revealed some interesting findings. Cats who live in a multi-cat household often do better, both physically and psychologically. While they may show signs of jealousy around their human companions, when left alone in the house, cats with another cat tend to accept and eventually love and play with a newcomer—given a little time.

Cats are somewhat guarded and territorial about their space and their humans. When their beloved humans first show up with a second cat, their initial reaction is anything but welcoming. There’s often growling, hissing, spitting, mewling, and of course, a few scuffles as dominance is established. Over time, the dominant cat begins to allow the secondary cat more freedom and attention, even from the human. Their time alone is often spent figuring each other out and making room for each other, while establishing a set of hierarchy rules. Cats have their own language and method of communication. What may look unappealing to humans is often a cat’s way of telling the newcomer how things work in their section of the house. Many times, this communication leads to significant and honorable bonding.

The one thing that people worry most about, aside from twice the expense at the vet’s office, is the impact a second cat might have on their relationship with their current cat. Despite their sometimes aloof and withdrawn reputation, cats have a high level of devotion. Cats adopt their humans for life, and nothing really interferes with their relationship with their human—except abandonment. Cats with highly dominant personalities are likely to bully a more passive cat, but this typically only occurs in front of humans. It’s a show of affection for one cat to chase the other away, especially when it involves the human or the human’s bedroom. These antics are usually short-lived, and within a month, cats typically adjust and feel as secure with the new companion as they did before.

The question of when to get two cats is just as important as whether you should. A second cat should not be introduced into the household when the original cat is suffering from a serious illness or health problem, or seems to be nearing the end of their golden years. When a cat is no longer filled with health and vitality, a newcomer may be perceived as a threat, and for cats who know they are ill, the newcomer can be seen as a “replacement.”

An older cat—one over ten years old—may not take to a new companion, especially if the new companion is a kitten. Older cats often lack the tolerance necessary to deal with a playful and boisterous young one. One good smack of the paw is often enough to make a statement from the older cat. A smack with claws out, however, may offer a more serious warning. While it’s rare, there have been reports of older cats harming or even killing small kittens who come into the home as a second cat.

A two-cat family often works best when there are two humans involved. Cats tend to gravitate more toward one human than the other, adopting that person while the other is tolerated for feeding and filling in when the favored human is unavailable. Two-cat families often end up with cats bonding deeply with opposite humans.

In the end, the question, “Should I get two cats?” is often answered when the second cat comes into the home. Give them about a month to adjust. Don’t play favorites, and avoid disrupting the original cat’s daily routine. The end result is usually highly positive. Cats who bond with other cats are healthier, live longer, and are happier to find their place in the pride. By bringing a second cat into your household, you may very well be giving your cat a tremendous gift while giving yourself twice the love and fun.

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A Cat Can Live to 20 Years

A healthy American Shorthair cat can live around 20 years. However, not all cats reach this milestone. Diet, exercise, living conditions (indoor, outdoor, or both), veterinary care, and genetics all influence a cat’s lifespan. These factors can determine whether a cat celebrates its 20th birthday or falls short.

The oldest recorded cat in recent American history lived to 28, with some cats in Australia and New Zealand reaching 25 or 26. Such longevity is rare. Remarkably, just two decades ago, cats were expected to live only 6 to 8 years, with over 40% not surviving past their fourth birthday, according to cat trivia. Why the dramatic increase in life expectancy?

Factors Driving Longer Cat Lifespans

Historically, most cats were barn dwellers, tasked with controlling mice and rodents threatening stored crops. They received little medical care, no vaccinations, and often ate disease-ridden prey, leading to shorter lives. About 20 years ago, attitudes shifted. Cats transitioned from working animals to cherished pets, receiving better care, including vaccinations, castration, and high-quality cat food.

While some barn cats still exist, many now benefit from castration (leaving one male and female for reproduction), vaccinations, medical care, and healthier diets. This shift has improved their life expectancy, though it remains lower than that of indoor cats.

Outdoor cats face greater risks, with a lifespan of 4 to 8 years, depending on luck and location. Despite appearing healthier due to avoiding obesity, they’re vulnerable to diseases from fighting or mating with infected cats, as well as dangers like dogs, cars, or cruel individuals. About 60% of outdoor cats die from such causes before natural aging.

Advancements in veterinary medicine and cat food nutrition have significantly extended feline lifespans. As carnivores, cats require specific nutrients to thrive. While replicating their wild diet is challenging, modern cat food provides adequate nutrition for healthy functioning. The growing popularity of cats as pets has driven advancements in veterinary technology, diagnostics, and procedures. As cats became beloved companions, the veterinary field responded with greater urgency and resources, though progress depends on financial investment.

How long do cats live? Today, they’re living longer and healthier lives. Over the next 20 years, as cats remain a cornerstone of pet society, medical and nutritional advancements will likely push lifespans even further, potentially setting new longevity records.

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Some people may wonder why cat owners bother grooming their cats, given that cats spend much of their time grooming themselves and lounging in the sun. However, there are many ways cat owners can care for their feline friends to keep them clean, protect their health, and strengthen the bond between pet and owner.

What’s Involved in Grooming a Cat?

Grooming a cat involves several aspects of general cleanliness. While your cat likely keeps its fur clean and doesn’t look like it was just pulled from a garbage pile, a cat that appears neglected—or one you’ve rescued from tough conditions—may require extra effort. When grooming, focus on these key areas:

• Combing or brushing the fur
• Eye care
• Nail care
• Dental care
• Ear care
• Bathing

Why Should I Comb or Brush My Cat?

Combing and brushing your cat’s fur is essential for several reasons. Most importantly, it helps strengthen the bond between you and your pet through attentive care. Regular brushing also promotes your cat’s health. By removing loose dirt, dead skin, dust, and excess fur, you reduce the likelihood of hairballs and minimize pet hair on your furniture and floors.

Daily brushing virtually eliminates the risk of matted fur, especially for long-haired cats, who are prone to matting that can trap dirt and cause discomfort. If your cat rolls in something sticky, matted areas can become harder to clean. When dealing with mats, start combing from the bottom and work toward the skin. Cutting out matted fur can risk injuring your cat’s skin, so combing is the safest approach.

Additional Grooming Needs for Your Cat

Cats, especially flat-faced breeds like Persians, can develop eye matter buildup and dark stains around their eyes. This buildup can lead to brownish tear stains running from the eyes to the nostrils if not addressed. Gently wiping the corners of your cat’s eyes with a warm, damp washcloth will remove the matter and reduce staining. If you notice redness, puffiness, or pus around the eyes, consult your veterinarian.

Do Cats Need Nail Care?

Declawing is not recommended, as it’s akin to removing a human’s fingertips. Instead, regular nail care is essential, especially for indoor cats who can’t naturally wear down their nails. Overgrown nails can puncture a cat’s foot pads, causing pain. Cats scratch to sharpen their claws and remove excess nail length, so providing a scratching post is ideal to save your furniture.

For some cats, trimming their nails once a month keeps them healthy and prevents damage to your belongings. Trim only the very tip of the nail, avoiding the pale pink vein (the quick) visible in clear nails. For cats with dark nails, have a vet or groomer demonstrate the first trim to avoid cutting too deep, as this can be painful and make your cat wary of future trims.

How Can I Provide Dental Care for My Cat?

Your cat won’t brush its own teeth, but you can help maintain its dental health. While some experts recommend daily brushing, many cats resist this. Check your cat’s mouth regularly and brush when possible, ideally early in the day before feeding, followed by a treat to encourage cooperation. Use a special pet brush without toothpaste, as human toothpaste is harmful to cats. A plain brush will remove debris effectively. Offering crunchy foods regularly can also help clean teeth and strengthen gums, often with less risk of scratches or bites.

Do Cats Need Special Ear Care?

In most cases, it’s best to leave your cat’s ears alone. However, keeping them dry is crucial to prevent ear infections, a common issue in pets. If water gets in your cat’s ears during cleaning, dry them immediately. Signs of infection, such as smelly discharge, pus, redness, or balance issues, warrant a trip to the vet.

Is Bathing Part of Routine Cat Grooming?

Unlike dogs, cats rarely need regular baths. If you brush your short-haired cat weekly or your long-haired cat daily, bathing is typically unnecessary except in emergencies. A monthly grooming session at home or with a professional groomer is sufficient to keep your cat clean and beautiful.

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True, cats don’t generally need to be walked in the rain, taken to obedience classes, or kenneled for a weekend away. However, they still need constant care and vigilant ownership. The least responsible thing a person can do with a cat is allow their feline friend outside, un-neutered and un-spayed, to go off and produce more kittens. If you’re going to get a cat, it should be sterilized. This isn’t because people shouldn’t witness the miracle of birth or revel in the new life of kittens; it’s because nearly 2 million unwanted cats and kittens are euthanized every year. There is no responsible reason to add to the number. If you find homes for all your kittens, that’s an entire litter that remains at a shelter awaiting euthanasia. Those are some pretty sickening statistics, especially when it costs about $100 or less to get your cat spayed or neutered.

The Growing Popularity of Cats as Pets

Despite these statistics, cats are rapidly becoming more prevalent in today’s society. Cat lovers have found places for their cats at work, at play, and definitely at home. Once thought of as homebodies, cats are now accompanying their owners to a multitude of life’s events. They are extremely adaptable and often welcome new challenges, provided there is a competent owner nearby to oversee the entire process.

The carefree attitude that a cat can take care of itself is slowly starting to dwindle in the United States. Even just ten years ago, the number of un-inoculated barn cats, street cats, and outdoor cats was unreasonably high. The number of cats not receiving medical care when necessary was just as high. People had cats to help with rodent problems but didn’t repay their servitude with the basics of regular shots and veterinary care. Though the numbers of such cases are now dropping, the situation still persists. There is a re-education of American cat owners in full swing, bringing this crisis into full view for many newfound cat lovers.

While it may be an obvious statement, it bears repeating: cats are not dogs, and they can’t be treated in the same manner. Humans who are particularly used to their interactions with dogs often find themselves confused when their cats respond with aloofness and nonchalance, especially when they attempt to create the same standards they would with a dog. Dogs require leadership; cats require a high level of thought when it comes to training, discipline, and even interactions. Cats think differently than dogs, and to truly enjoy a cat in your life, you need at least some understanding of how and why they do the things they do.

Cats can be trained—well trained, in fact. And while they can often be bribed into doing favors using treats, training a cat requires diligence, persistence, and, most definitely, patience. Cats often have a mind of their own, regardless of their human’s opinion. But then again, that is why we love them the way we do, isn’t it?

If you’re considering entering the world of cat ownership, take a moment to ask yourself what you’re expecting from the experience. Many would-be cat owners realize too late that their passion for cats is largely based on myth. There are ample myths surrounding cats, their personalities, and their habits. Cats haven’t always gotten a fair shake. Their behavior is often more of a response to their humans’ behavior than something inherently ingrained in them. If you leave your cat alone most of the time and don’t interact with it, your cat is likely to become aloof. However, if you spend time getting to know your cat, playing with it, and paying attention to its needs, it will become a much better companion.

Nobody can deny the absolute delight a friendly cat can bring into the lives of humans. Their antics are one-of-a-kind and hysterical, often driving a room full of adults into gut-busting laughter. In the right mood, cats can be quite the entertainers.

Owning a cat is like owning a chronic surprise in your back pocket. Dogs are predictable: when you come home, they wag their tails; when you get their ball, they bounce with anticipation. Cats, on the other hand, are continuously responding to any given moment with a wide variety of antics, moods, attitudes, and, of course, whimsical behaviors that endear them to our hearts. Those who truly believe in cats and cat ownership as a way of life find that without understanding their behaviors, humans are robbed of something primal within themselves.

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Cats are unique in their personalities, individual quirks, and their love for play. Every cat enjoys some form of fun activity, and it’s your job as their owner to figure out which types of play interest your cat the most and what toys are needed to encourage this behavior.

Toys are essential for cats, just as they are for dogs. They help alleviate boredom and channel instinctive behaviors, like prey-chasing, into acceptable indoor play. Engaging in playful activities with your cat also provides an opportunity for exercise—something many indoor cats desperately need. Additionally, playtime helps strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Choosing the Right Toys for Your Cat

When it comes to toys, it’s important to choose safe options. There are several factors to consider, including your cat’s size, activity level, and personal preferences for types of activities. Keep these points in mind when purchasing toys for your beloved feline.

Be aware that the items that often seem most appealing to cats can actually be the most dangerous. Easily ingested materials are the biggest threat. These include string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, and needles. All of these should be kept away from your cat, as they could lead to choking or internal injury.

Stuffed toys should be just as childproof as they are cat-proof. If a toy isn’t labeled as “safe for children under three,” it’s unlikely to be safe for a cat. Always remove any extra attachments such as buttons, feathers, or ribbons. Inspect the stuffing in plush toys for safety. Toys with small plastic squeakers can also be hazardous if your cat chews them apart and swallows the pieces. While plastic toys can be safer, many cats tend not to play with them.

There are plenty of safe and enjoyable toys that will keep your cat entertained. Here are some ideas:

• Plastic balls: You can purchase ones specifically designed for cats, or use ping pong balls. Some balls come with bells inside, but avoid these as they can be ingested.
• Plastic rings: Shower curtain rings are a great option. They’re fun for your cat to bat around and can be strung together for added play.
• Paper bags: A common household item, paper bags offer a wonderland for cats to hide in. Just be sure to remove the handles. Cardboard boxes also serve the same purpose.
• Plush toys: Soft toys like miniature mice are often a hit with cats, especially when stuffed with catnip. Cats will rub, scratch, and lick these toys for hours.
• Plain catnip: Available at pet stores, catnip can be sprinkled on surfaces for your cat to enjoy rolling in.
• Scratching posts: These are beneficial for both you and your cat. They encourage your cat to scratch the post, not your furniture. Adding a swinging bird or mouse to the top makes it even more enticing.

Rotate your cat’s toys regularly to prevent boredom. Hiding toys can also add an element of surprise and fun. However, don’t use toys just to keep your cat busy while you’re not paying attention. Cats need interaction with their owners, so toys like a stick with a mouse attached are perfect for shared play. You’ll be amazed by the acrobatics your cat will perform to chase and catch that mouse.

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