Coffee, a drink prepared from the roasted seeds of the coffee plant and served hot or cold, is one of the world’s most popular beverages. Immersed in legends and tales, coffee began its rise to popularity thousands of years ago, possibly first discovered by a goat herder in Kaffa, Ethiopia. From such humble beginnings, coffee has secured an important place in the world’s economy as a staple crop for many impoverished and struggling nations. These nations rely heavily on the coffee plant to provide jobs and income. As evidenced by the rise in popularity of coffee chains such as Starbucks and Seattle’s Best, coffee is here to stay. However, as designer coffee bean prices soar, market prices paid to small coffee farmers in these poor countries continue to drop, meaning less income for already strained families. New ideals such as Fair Trade aim to help these struggling farmers by providing a decent living wage for their goods. Will Fair Trade alter the course of the coffee industry, or will the growing and processing of this little bean continue as it has for centuries?
The Origins of Coffee and Its Journey to Global Popularity
The discovery of coffee can actually be traced back to the 9th century, when it was first found on the Horn of Africa, in modern-day Ethiopia. Two stories exist regarding the discovery of the coffee bean, one involving a goat herder named Kaldi. According to legend, Kaldi noticed his goats acting with extreme vigor after eating the cherries of a certain tree. Upon eating the berries himself, he felt the same renewed energy, and thus, the effects of coffee were discovered. Another similar tale involves a Yemenite mystic traveler who, like Kaldi, observed goats acting with unusual energy and consumed the same fruit, learning of the effects of the coffee bean. Traders began offering these coffee beans, which made their way into Arabia, and eventually out into India, Holland, and Europe through Venice, Italy. It was here that coffee reached popularity in the 17th century. Historically, the first coffeehouses served as gathering places for political movements and debates.
While many people drink and enjoy coffee, little is commonly known about where the coffee bean actually comes from and how it is processed. Though there are over sixty species of coffee trees, only two are grown and cultivated for consumption: Arabica (a higher quality bean, more difficult to grow) and Robusta (a hardier plant, producing a lesser quality bean). The coffee plant is a small tree or shrub and is part of the Rubiaceae family. Native to subtropical Africa and southern Asia, coffee is now grown in the ‘bean belt,’ a region near the equator bordered by the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn. The flowering trees produce purple or red fruits (coffee berries) which contain two seeds: these seeds are the coffee beans. It takes three to five years for a coffee plant to reach maturity and bear fruit, with each tree yielding approximately one pound of roasted beans per year.
Harvesting and processing of coffee beans is quite time-consuming and labor-intensive for farmers. Since the coffee fruits ripen at different times, the fruit must be hand-picked to ensure the highest quality of beans. Some coffee is picked using a vacuum pack, but beans collected this way are used in instant coffee and are not suitable for drip machines. Laborers who pick the coffee are paid by the basketful; an experienced picker can usually gather 6-7 baskets per day. Pay (from growers) per basket can range anywhere from $2.00 to $10.00, with most pickers earning closer to $2.00 per basket. Once harvested, the beans are de-pulped, dried (either by the sun or a machine), and then sorted into different grades depending on their quality. These ‘milled beans’ are then shipped to their destination countries, where they are roasted. Roasting darkens the color of the bean and enhances its flavor and aroma. Lightly roasted beans (e.g., cinnamon roast, New England roast) retain much of their original flavor, while dark roasting (e.g., Viennese, French, and Continental) creates a more intense ‘roasted’ flavor. The roasted beans are ground in a coffee grinder, placed in a filter, and brewed in a coffee maker. The coffee maker routes hot water through the coffee grounds, extracting flavor and caffeine, resulting in a fresh, hot cup of brewed coffee!
Each year, nearly seven million tons of coffee are produced by over fifty-six different countries, with Brazil and Colombia leading the pack, followed by Indonesia, Vietnam, Mexico, and Ethiopia. Twenty million families are employed by coffee production and exportation, earning, on average, only six percent of the retail price of coffee beans. For every pound of gourmet coffee beans sold in the US, a coffee farmer receives about twelve cents. Because many coffee producers have small-scale operations, the current prices they receive for their goods are insufficient to support their families. As a result, some coffee farmers in South America, Africa, and Indonesia have turned to growing illegal crops like coca (used to make cocaine) to survive. To combat the current low market prices for coffee, a Dutch company introduced the concept of Fair Trade, which guarantees farmers a set pre-harvest price, ensuring a decent living wage.
Fair Trade is an ideal related to the sustainable development movement, which seeks to protect the rights of producers and workers by offering better trading conditions to promote equity in the global trading industry. Fair Trade goals include protecting the environment, creating opportunities for economically disadvantaged growers, establishing independence by providing long-term trade relationships, and offering fair prices with equal pay for both men and women. Currently, Fair Trade certification is overseen by FLO International, a non-profit organization that sets standards and audits growers to ensure compliance. Consumers can identify Fair Trade products by looking for the certification mark. In 2005, Fair Trade sales increased by 37%.
Though market prices for coffee are dropping, and small-time coffee farmers continue to suffer, coffee consumption worldwide has reached astounding numbers. Over 50% of Americans are daily coffee drinkers, and another 30% enjoy a coffee beverage occasionally. Coffee consumption accounts for nearly one-third of tap water usage in North America and Europe! As the world moves faster, many people drink coffee for the benefits of caffeine—a stimulant that provides a boost of energy and enhanced mood and concentration. While simple brewed coffee remains the traditional choice, the introduction of espresso drinks (finely ground coffee brewed under pressure) from Italy to North America in the 1980s has led to the rise of various coffee beverages such as the latte, cappuccino, Americano, and many more. Since espresso is more concentrated in caffeine and flavor, it has become a popular base for coffee drinks.
A coffee culture has emerged, with chains like Starbucks offering a wide range of coffee drinks to suit nearly anyone’s taste. Flavored coffees and espresso drinks have become hugely popular, with options for all ages. Espresso drinks like the white chocolate mocha and gingerbread latte combine coffee with dessert-like blends of flavored syrups, espresso, and whipped cream. During the summer, iced coffee drinks such as java chip and café vanilla frappuccinos offer refreshing options. In addition to the many drinks on their existing menus, many coffee chains will create a coffee drink to suit any customer’s specification. Ordering coffee at Starbucks can become quite intricate with choices in milk types, syrups, espresso concentration, desired temperature, etc.
Though some of these decadent espresso beverages may be loaded with calories (you can always opt for skim milk!), recent studies show that drinking coffee poses no health risks to most consumers. In fact, research suggests that coffee drinkers have a decreased risk of developing Parkinson’s disease compared to non-drinkers, and a reduced risk of colon cancer as well. Even pregnant women can safely consume low to moderate amounts of coffee, though many expectant mothers choose to avoid coffee and caffeine altogether just in case. Long-term, high levels of caffeine consumption (300+ mg per day) may cause anxiety, insomnia, and muscle twitching.
With the coffee industry booming and new coffee shops opening across the nation, it only makes sense that consumers are becoming more aware of coffee’s origins, growth, and trade industry. A growing niche market for organic coffee beans is seeing significant interest, as consumers are willing to pay a little extra for coffee grown with environmental preservation in mind. Independent studies from 2002, 2003, and 2005 showed that Fair Trade is strengthening producer organizations and improving the quality of life for coffee-growing families. In 2006, one analysis revealed a decrease in child mortality rates among Kenyan farmers in Fair Trade certified groups. Though critics of Fair Trade cite potential price increases as a drawback, a 1lb bag of Fair Trade coffee can be bought from Higher Grounds for $9.95 per pound, while the same beans from Starbucks cost $10.45 per pound—without Fair Trade certification.
What will always remain, no matter the growing conditions or regulations, is the world’s love for coffee—a little bean that helps so many people face each day with vigor. Hopefully, increasing awareness about the importance of coffee in poor nations will improve the standard of living and growing conditions for coffee farmers worldwide. After all, for people willing to pay over three dollars for a latte or espresso, a few extra cents per drink to ensure the sustainability of the coffee industry should be no big deal!
