When asked to write an article about great cheap wine, I thought long and hard about the best approach. Rating wine is subjective and highly dependent on personal taste, so I didn’t think I could write a fair evaluation by simply rewriting what others had said. I wasn’t comfortable with that. After all, I am a chef, and I have a reputation to consider.
I called up a few friends and proposed that we all buy a bottle of what we thought would be a good wine, bring it to my house, and sample them together. The rules were simple: the wine must cost under $20.00 per bottle, and it could not be any mass-produced table wines like Paul Masson, Riunite, Blue Nun, Yago, etc. The wines also couldn’t be toxic, such as Mad Dog 20/20, Thunderbird, Boone’s Farm, Torpedo Red, Ripple, Cripple Creek, or anything else known to the state of California to have a half-life. And absolutely no homemade wines that glow in the dark!
Our Wine Tasting Adventure
We were in the middle of the worst snowstorm Tennessee had seen in years, so we had little else to do. We all live within walking distance of each other, and the local shopping center, which includes a Walmart, Food Lion, Bi-Lo, and a small Beverage and Tobacco Store, had everything we needed. We were in good shape.
My friends, who shall remain nameless to protect their anonymity (and police records), showed up, and we began an odyssey into the world of inexpensive wines, with 5 hand-selected representatives. Here are the results, in no particular order of preference:
Candidate #1: Gnarly Head Old Vine Zin 2008 – $9.99
A California Zinfandel. If the name wasn’t enough to intimidate, the label was positively ominous: a black tree with tentacle-like limbs reaching out against a Great Pumpkin orange background. I felt a cold shiver run down my spine. The label said it came from Lodi, California. When we opened the bottle, I half-expected smoke, or a genie, or something else to pop out. In the glass, it was crystal-clear, with a deep ruby-red color. So far, so good. The bouquet was assertive and intoxicating, with notes of black cherry, vanilla, and coffee. I was becoming optimistic. I took the first sip and was overcome with relief. This stuff was actually drinkable. The taste was deep and complex, with black cherry everywhere and a pleasant woody overtone. It had a goodly amount of tannins, but I expected that from a 2008 wine, and they were not unpleasant. The finish was long and wonderfully tart. This wine would go great with pasta and marinara or anything spicy. Not as luscious as some other Zinfandels I’ve sampled, but at $9.99 a bottle, it’s a bargain in anyone’s book.
Candidate #2: Trumpeter Pinot Noir 2008 – $8.99
The label said this one came from the Rutini Winery in Argentina, which made me feel a little better. I’m familiar with Rutini Wineries, which have a history dating back to the late 1800s and a good reputation. In the glass, the wine was a bit darker than I’d expect for a Pinot Noir, but it was absolutely clear and clean-looking. Initially, the nose was a bit overwhelming, and hard to pick out individual notes, but it mellowed out quickly into a pleasing blend of cherry, tart raspberry, and honeysuckle. It’s nice and dry, with a bold strawberry/cranberry taste, a great silky mouthfeel, and a long strawberry finish. This would be great with pork chops, pork roast, or baked ham. Just remember to let it breathe for a minute or two. At $8.99 a bottle, this is a winner.
Candidate #3: Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc 2009 – $10.99
In the glass, it was a bit darker than expected, but it had a lovely greenish-tinged gold color. This was probably the prettiest wine out of all that we sampled. It was spring-water clear. Coming from New Zealand, I expected a strong citrus nose, but I was taken by surprise by the attention-grabbing mineral overtones, similar to Bass Pale Ale. There were some citrus notes, but mostly melon, and what I can only describe as fresh-mowed grass. When I took the first sip, I found where the citrus was hiding—sunny grapefruit, Granny Smith apple, and honeydew melon, all in perfect harmony, with just the right amount of acidity. The finish was long and fruity. This is the wine to pair with poached trout, baked striped bass, or even broiled catfish. At this price, there’s no reason not to keep a bottle of this in the kitchen. Another winner.
Candidate #4: Barefoot Chardonnay (Vintage Unknown) – $6.99
OK, I was a bit apprehensive about drinking anything that started with the word “Barefoot,” but I pressed on. So far, we were 3 for 3, and had discovered some great cheap wines, but I knew there had to be a joker in the deck somewhere, and a wine named ‘Barefoot’ seemed a likely suspect. They didn’t even put a year on the label! In the glass, it was what I’d expect from a California Chardonnay—medium gold in color and extremely clear. The bouquet reminded me of peach and apple orchards. The nose wasn’t overpowering, but it was there. The crisp Rome apple and peach notes, along with a nice creamy mouthfeel, pleasantly surprised me. The finish was mostly citrus, with good acidity. This is a great middle-of-the-road Chardonnay that would be perfect with baked or rotisserie chicken, or roast turkey. This was the least expensive wine of the bunch, and a great bargain.
Candidate #5: Carmen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – $13.99
This was the most expensive of the bunch but still very reasonable. The label is beautiful and attractive, like something you’d see on a much more expensive wine. It’s labeled as a Cabernet Sauvignon, but upon further reading, I discovered it’s a blend of 80% Cabernet, 10% Syrah, and 5% Merlot. I normally don’t care for blended wines, but this was an exception. In the glass, it had an enticing deep purplish-red color. The bouquet was extremely complex and interesting, with notes of mint, Cavendish pipe tobacco, and cedar forest after a spring rain, with spicy and herbal overtones. The palate was an intense and rich experience of Crème de Cassis and fresh blackberries, without being too fruity. It had a superb balance of tannins and acidity, with a smooth, silky berries-and-cream finish. This wine would be excellent with roast beef, pot roast, or steaks. It’s worth much more than its $13.99 price tag.
This experiment was a revelation for me. There wasn’t a throwaway in the bunch. My previous experience with cheap wines had been limited to Thunderbird, Mad Dog 20/20, Boone’s Farm, and other flavored embalming fluids. I intend to continue exploring the world of budget-priced vino. I don’t know if we were just lucky, or if there’s really some good cheap wine being made these days, but I’m excited to find out.
