So, what is a “great tasting Pinot Noir” really? In my humble opinion, it would be a Pinot Noir that I enjoy drinking—one that has the elements on my palate and nose that I love, and that pairs well with food as well as on its own. Also, I believe everyone has their own standards and palate, and should find the Pinot Noirs that they personally enjoy.
A Pinot Noir that someone else—whether a “professional” or not—suggests, recommends, or rates with a number of “points” should only serve as a guide when choosing that bottle of wine. This applies to any wine you’re contemplating trying.
The Finer Pinot Noirs: A Journey Through Time
That being said, let me proceed with my article on the finer Pinot Noirs in life—again, in my humble opinion—that I have had the pleasure of tasting over the years. I’ll start with the present and work my way back in time—something a little different, shall we say?
Two weeks ago, I had the opportunity and the pleasure to attend the IPNC12, the International Pinot Noir Conference, held annually in McMinnville. This international wine event is attended by some of the best producers of Pinot Noir from the United States, Canada, New Zealand, Spain, France, and others. Over four days, I tasted hundreds of wines from these exceptional wineries and met many of the vintners.
Some of the special sessions I was privileged to attend included tastings and discussions with the Vintner/Owners of two of the pioneering Pinot Noir growers here in Oregon. At this tasting, I sampled Pinot Noirs from three different years and did comparisons. Remarkably, these wines were 20–30 years old and from private collections. Need I say there weren’t many of us using our spit buckets?
A trip to the Willakenzie Vineyards for wine tasting and a luncheon brought me face to face with a lady vintner from France, Thiébault Huber. She introduced me to her 2010 Domaine Huber-Verdereau Pinot Noir, which had me immediately calling my travel agent to book a flight to France to visit her vineyards. Well, one can only dream, right? Actually, it was quite intriguing when she discussed how her family vineyards—by the way, older than any of ours here in the U.S.—were “so young.” Tasting her wine, along with two other well-known wineries’ best Pinot Noirs, was a million-dollar experience for me.
The thing is, you can always find a “wine expert” who will tell you that a wine tastes like a Pinot Noir should, or doesn’t. I’ve found over the years—and especially after this conference—that the Pinot Noir that tastes like a great Pinot Noir is the one in your glass that makes you smile and want to indulge in another sip or two. It’s the one with the flavors you’re seeking in a wine.
I find that the aromas and elements in Pinot Noir that curl around your tongue and cling to your molars, with hints of memories swirling around your nose, have been developed by the vintner. The soils the vines were grown in, the magic they performed with their wine-making techniques, what barrel they used to let the wine “sleep,” and how it aged in the bottle—all contribute to the final product.
If you took bottles of the “best” Pinot Noirs from all the countries represented at that conference, wrapped them in brown paper, and started tasting and noting your findings, you’d be quite surprised. Every single one would be different. I found that I really enjoy many of the Oregon Pinot Noirs, but at the same time, equally enjoyed the French Pinot Noirs from the Burgundy Wine regions, even though they were dramatically different. I could immediately recognize the terroir of each different country in every sip.
If you’re from California, you’re probably going to disagree with what I’m about to say, but we can both have our own opinions. I find that Pinot Noir produced in California and Pinot Noir produced in Oregon are two different animals. There, I said it! When I put most—though not all—Pinot Noirs from both states, especially from Napa/Sonoma, side by side with Willamette Valley Oregon Pinots, they taste completely different on my palate.
Oregon Pinot Noir is often lighter in color, body, and taste, while its counterparts down south are darker and heavier. In many cases, they’re almost like Zinfandels. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not badmouthing Zins. In fact, they’re my favorite reds. But really, I find more of a bite, more tannin levels, and although delicious in most cases, they are very different from Oregon Pinots.
That being said, let’s look at a couple of examples of what I tasted at the conference, from both states, and heck, let’s throw in France as well.
Tasting Notes: A Closer Look at Pinot Noir from Three Regions
As I tasted hundreds of wines at WBC12, I’ll focus on three wineries’ Pinot Noirs as my examples. The tour took place at the magnificent WillaKenzie Vineyards in Yamhill, Oregon. After a vineyard tour, we were escorted into a large tasting room and seated around a table set up for our tasting. The three wineries presenting side-by-side tastings were WillaKenzie Estate, Pommard from France, and Domaine Serene from Dayton, Oregon.
From WillaKenzie Estate, we tasted their 2010 Aliette Pinot Noir, which is soon to be released. This young Pinot Noir exhibited softer tannins surrounding the red fruit, with some cinnamon flavors that led to a superb finish. Given its age, this Pinot Noir will only become more wonderful with a few years in the cellar.
From Domaine Serene Winery, we tasted their not-yet-released 2010 Everstad Reserve Pinot Noir. I found the nose on this wine a delight, with berry and black fruit, which led to a full mouth of raspberry and mineral with a hint of acidity. For a young wine, the finish was velvety and a pleasure on my palate. Domaine Serene has once again produced a winner, as this Pinot Noir embodies everything that’s great about the Willamette Valley.
Finally, we tasted the French 2010 “Fanny Sabre” Pinot Noir from Pommard Vineyards in Burgundy, France. With my first pour of this red, followed by a swirl and sniff, this wine presented my senses with a delightful nose of red fruit—blackberry, raspberry, and cherry. The following sip revealed a minerality, which I immediately recognized as not from U.S. soils. There’s just a charming difference in the flavors of Burgundy Pinot Noir that I couldn’t help but savor. Let me just say, I had no intention of using a “spit bucket” for this wine.
The Bottom Line
The bottom line, in my opinion, is this: Each country producing Pinot Noir presents its own rendition of this finicky grape. They are each very unique, and therefore your enjoyment of a Pinot Noir will depend on the flavors you relish and, more importantly, which you’re accustomed to drinking. Those in Pinot Country, California, believe theirs is a true example of U.S. Pinot Noir. Oregon feels that its climate and terroir produce a Pinot Noir that mirrors that of Burgundy.
Personally, I find California Pinot Noir to be heavier than that of Oregon, which gives me more options for pairing with a variety of food choices. My choices for Pinot Noirs from France, and specifically Burgundy, are more balanced, and actually present well with just about anything. But again, your choice of what makes a great Pinot Noir all comes down to your specific palate. Enjoy the journey, visit many wineries, keep a log book, and enjoy the ride.
