One of the easiest ways to revamp a boring old kitchen is by painting the kitchen cupboards. However, before you begin, you need to know exactly what type of surface you’re dealing with. The problem is that if you don’t prepare your surfaces correctly, you’ll end up with paint peeling off very quickly. This leads to a waste of time, effort, and money.
So, before you start, assess what you’re working with. The most common possibilities are:
- Raw timber cupboards that have never been treated or painted previously,
- Timber cupboards that may have been sealed or varnished before,
- Timber cupboards that were stained and possibly sealed,
- Previously painted kitchen cupboards,
- Cupboards finished with a polyurethane coating, possibly from the factory, and
- Cupboards made from engineered board that has been veneered or coated with a resin.
Preparing the Surface Before Painting
If you have previously varnished or painted cupboards, you may need to strip them before applying a new coat of paint. However, if the surface is in good condition and there isn’t too much buildup of old paint, you may not need to strip it.
If the surface has a sound paint finish, has been coated with polyurethane (such as factory finishes), or has a veneer, you will either need to sand it lightly or apply a primer designed for these materials. The same applies to Melamine, a raw material bonded permanently to high-quality particle board. Melamine is durable, heat, stain, and scratch-resistant, making it a popular choice for kitchen cupboards and countertops for nearly a century.
Raw, untreated timber will also need to be primed with an appropriate product before you paint it.
Remember, before you do anything, it’s a good idea to remove the handles.
Stripping Old Paint and Varnish
If you’re going to strip paint or varnish from old kitchen cupboards, you have two basic options: using heat or chemicals.
Heat Method: You can use a blowtorch or an electric hot air stripper. Both work similarly, although an electric stripper is less likely to scorch the material. Apply the flame or hot air over the surface until the paint begins to bubble, then use a paint scraper to remove the softened paint. Use a flat scraper for flat surfaces and a shaped one (called a shave hook) for moldings. Always work with the grain when stripping solid wood.
Chemical Strippers: These come in liquid, gel, or paste form. Apply the stripper, let it soften the paint or varnish, and scrape off the old coating. You may need to repeat the process several times. Chemical strippers can be either solvent-based or water-soluble, so check the label before use. Always wear rubber gloves, as these products can burn your skin. If splashed, wash your skin immediately.
After removing the old paint or varnish, wash the surface thoroughly with soapy water or white spirit (mineral turpentine), depending on the stripper used. Allow the surface to dry completely before painting.
Alternatively, you can use a power sander to remove thin coats of paint or varnish, but only on flat surfaces. For moldings, stick to the other methods.
Sanding the Surface
After stripping, there may still be small bits of paint or varnish left. You can remove these using steel wool or abrasive sandpaper. It’s best to do this by hand for better control.
If you opt to use a power sander, you have a few options:
Belt Sanders: These remove paint quickly and efficiently, but be cautious not to damage the wood.
Disc Sanders: These are typically attached to an electric drill but can leave marks on the wood.
Orbital Sanders: These are a great choice. They have a flat surface and are similar to polishing tools. They are small, inexpensive, and easy to control, though not suitable for moldings.
For smooth surfaces like Melamine, polyurethane, or veneers, a light sanding will create a key for the paint to adhere to. Be careful not to sand too much, as the goal is to roughen the surface, not remove the coating.
Priming the Surfaces
Primers serve an important role in ensuring a good paint finish. They provide a base for the topcoat and protect the surface from deterioration. Wood primers also nourish the wood to some extent.
Always paint over primers; they are not designed to be used as a top coat.
Primers can be either water-based or solvent-based, so ensure compatibility with your topcoat paint. One particularly useful primer is formulated for smooth surfaces like Melamine and tiles. These primers improve adhesion without needing to sand glossy surfaces first.
Finally, Painting Your Kitchen Cupboards
By now, you should know whether you’re using water-based or solvent-based paint. However, there’s another consideration: the type of paint effect you want to achieve. For instance, you might want a wood grain effect or a textured finish.
Generally, enamel paints (either water- or solvent-based) are better for kitchen cupboards because they are more durable. However, if you plan to create specific paint effects, you may want to use a flat PVA and apply color washes. In this case, you will need to seal the surface to avoid yellowing and color changes. Modern water-based glazes even allow you to create wood graining on an acrylic surface, but make sure the products are compatible before proceeding.
If you’re new to paint techniques, practice on a test board before applying anything to your cupboards.
For a straightforward paint job, all you need is a paintbrush and your chosen paint. Always paint in the direction of the grain (or how the grain would run on solid wood). Be sure to remove any brush strokes or drips. Use masking tape to protect walls, trim, and hinges from accidental paint splatters.
Wait until the paint is completely dry before reattaching the handles.
