I’ve been very lucky in my life to have lived in two of the best seafood capitals of the U.S. In my opinion, New England, where lobster is king, and the Pacific Northwest, with its amazing crab, salmon, and halibut, are unparalleled. Now, don’t get me wrong—many other parts of the country offer great seafood, but this has been my personal experience. And, after spending so much time in New Orleans eating crawdads, I might even add that to my list of homes!
My early years in New England and my experience with wines were, well, limited. Let’s face it—I wasn’t living in “wine country” like I am now. Growing up, there were three kinds of wine that showed up at the dinner table during the holidays: Lambrusco, Gallo, and if I was lucky, a California Chardonnay. As I got older and married, developing a taste and interest in wines, I soon discovered that whether it was crab, lobster, or striped bass, Chardonnay quickly became my go-to wine. I remember the days when Kendall Jackson was the name to look for on the label. During those early years, the phrase “just pour me a white” became the norm.
The Wine & Seafood Connection
In the late 1980s, I relocated to the West Coast—San Diego, to be exact—and soon began traveling for work from the Hawaiian Islands to San Francisco, Seattle, and Alaska. And when I say San Francisco, let me be clear: every trip included a side adventure to Napa and Sonoma. It didn’t take long before my knowledge of both high-quality wines and seafood expanded. I quickly learned that different types of seafood required specific wines, and in many cases, a red wine was a better match than I’d ever imagined.
Let’s talk about Chardonnay and what it pairs well with—and why. Chardonnay can be aged in oak or stainless steel, and this difference can significantly impact how it complements seafood. I find that an oaked Chardonnay, as long as it’s not too heavy, pairs nicely with most salmon dishes. However, since moving to the West Coast, and particularly Oregon, I’ve discovered that Pinot Noir has become my personal choice, if I can find the right one on the wine list.
For seafood dishes like crab, oysters, scallops, and lighter fish such as halibut, I almost always go with an unoaked Chardonnay, aged in stainless steel. If I can find one with a “buttery” finish, all the better! Keep in mind that other white wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chenin Blanc, also pair well with many seafood dishes. Don’t be afraid to try something new—whether recommended by someone else or not. You may find a new pairing you can’t live without.
Case in point: my wife and I fish in Alaska every other year for Silver Salmon on the Kenai River and Halibut in the bay, bringing back 200 lbs of frozen filets each time. While we have always had our favorite wines to pair with these dishes, we found ourselves experimenting with different wines for our melt-in-your-mouth halibut. We tried Chardonnays and Pinot Gris from many regions around the world, but we eventually discovered Grüner Veltliner from a specific winery in Oregon, Rustle Vineyard in Roseburg.
Now, I’d tasted Grüner Veltliner in Austria and other parts of Europe, but I had no idea it was being produced in the U.S. Once we found it, we realized that this wine—produced by several Oregon wineries—was perfect with halibut. The minerality, fruit overtones, and flavors of the Grüner Veltliner make it the ultimate pairing. Needless to say, my wife insists that I keep no less than a case of Grüner Veltliner in our wine cellar at all times, and trust me, I don’t want to know what will happen if I don’t!
If Grüner Veltliner isn’t your thing and you’re looking for something milder to pair with white fish or shrimp, consider trying a great Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris. I’ve recently become a fan of Sauvignon Blanc from Oregon wineries, some of which rival my favorite from New Zealand. In fact, Melrose Vineyards released a Sauvignon Blanc that competes with my all-time favorite, Kim Crawford from New Zealand.
When pairing wine with tuna, swordfish, or salmon, it’s largely a matter of personal taste. However, there are a few general guidelines. Big, bold reds like Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel can overpower fish dishes. The goal is for the wine to complement the food, not overwhelm it. A lighter Pinot Noir will pair well with most fish, but you have other options too. Many wineries today produce excellent Rosé wines or sparkling wines like Gloria Ferrer from Sonoma, California. If you’re willing to splurge, a fine Champagne from France, Spain, or Italy is also a great choice. Sparkling wines are particularly good with fried seafood, such as beer-battered shrimp or fish.
For spicy seafood dishes at Vietnamese, Chinese, or Thai restaurants, consider skipping the “unfiltered Sake” and instead try a Riesling or Gewürztraminer. The mild sweetness of these wines complements the heat often found in these cuisines.
In the end, when it comes to seafood and wine pairing, most of us who make recommendations agree on our suggestions. After all, we spend years tasting wines and finding ones that balance well with the foods we love. On the coasts and in some inland areas, you can find Seafood and Wine Festivals—like those in Newport and Astoria, Oregon—where you can sample different wines with seafood. Ultimately, it’s all about what tastes good to you. But trust me, when you find that one wine that perfectly complements fresh crab, making it “pop,” you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about.
Cheers and Bon Appétit!
Gary W. Peterson, Wine Consultant