Breeding cats can be an extremely rewarding experience. However, before undertaking a breeding program, it is essential to understand what this involves from the time of mating to the time of weaning. It is also important to remember that many unwanted cats exist, and breeding requires the responsibility of ensuring permanent, loving homes are found.
What happens when my cat comes into “heat”?
Queens come into “heat” or “call” (estrus) multiple times a year. Cats in estrus become very affectionate and vocal, demanding attention and rolling frequently. When stroked, they raise their rear quarters and tread the ground with their back legs. These behavioral changes can confuse inexperienced owners, who may misinterpret them as signs of pain or illness. The pattern of estrus varies from cat to cat and can be seasonal.
What will mating entail?
Queens are induced ovulators, meaning they ovulate in response to mating. During mating, the male cat holds the queen’s scruff in his teeth, and upon ejaculation, the queen cries out and may become aggressive. Although this may appear violent, it is normal mating behavior. She will then wash herself, wait a while, and start again.
How long will my cat be pregnant?
Pregnancy (gestation) ranges from 60 to 67 days, averaging 63 to 65 days. It is important to record the date of mating.
Will my cat’s diet need to be changed during pregnancy?
During pregnancy, the queen’s food consumption will increase to 1.5 times her pre-pregnancy level. By the time of weaning, it may exceed 2 times the pre-pregnancy level. It will be necessary to increase the number of meals given and/or feed a diet formulated for kittens, as this provides the extra nutrients required for pregnancy and nursing.
Will my cat’s behavior change during pregnancy?
During pregnancy, the cat’s behavior changes little; however, some cats may become more loving, while a few may become aggressive. In the final week, the queen may search for a suitable kittening bed. It is important to confine her indoors during this time to closely monitor her and prevent any complications.
What preparations are needed before my cat has her kittens?
The kittening bed can take many forms, but a cardboard box lined with newspaper, old sheets, or towels is ideal. The bed should be warm, cozy, and private but also observable.
First Stage Labor
This stage involves the relaxation of the cervix and vagina, along with intermittent contractions in the uterus. The pelvic muscles slacken, and the perineum (the area between the anus and vulva) becomes looser and longer. At this stage, uterine contractions are not yet visible as straining, although movement of the fetuses may be seen and felt through the abdominal wall. There is little to observe, except for repeated visits to the kittening bed, and many cats will seek reassurance from their owners. Scratching and bed-making behaviors may be evident, and some cats may begin to pant. The queen usually stops eating during the last 24 hours before labor, and her temperature may drop below 100°F (37.8°C). Vaginal discharge is rarely seen. In many cats having their first litter, this first stage of labor can be prolonged, lasting up to 36 hours.
Second and Third Stages
In the second stage of labor, the uterine muscles begin stronger and more frequent contractions. As each fetus enters the pelvis, the outer layer of its membranes appears briefly at the vulva as the “water bag,” which bursts and is cleaned up by the cat. The inner membranes remain on the fetus and act as a lubricant to assist its passage.
As the fetal head passes into the pelvis, its pressure causes voluntary straining using the abdominal muscles. This “bearing down” helps to move the fetus through the pelvis. This is usually the point at which the attendant can see that the cat is actually straining. Typically, the delivery of a kitten from the start of the second stage may take from 5 to 30 minutes. Once the head is out of the vulva, one or two more strains should complete the passage of the kitten’s body.
The third stage of labor follows immediately, marked by the passage of the membranes, complete with the greenish-black mass of the separated placenta (the after-birth). Each set of membranes is normally passed immediately after each kitten, although sometimes a second kitten may follow quickly, temporarily delaying the membranes from the first. As each kitten is born, the mother will tear open the membranes and clear the mouth and nose area, bite off the umbilical cord, and subsequently eat the after-birth. Intervals between kitten births vary; on average, they last from ten minutes to an hour.
Interrupted Labor
Interrupted labor is relatively common in cats and is considered a normal occurrence. In this case, the queen may cease straining, rest happily, suckle any kittens already born, and accept food, despite still having more kittens to deliver. This resting stage may last up to 24 or even 36 hours, after which straining recommences, and the remainder of the litter is born normally.
Owners should closely observe the process but should not interfere more than absolutely necessary, as most cats deliver their kittens without complications. However, first-time mothers should be attended by their owners. Once all the kittens have been born, the dirty bedding can be removed and replaced.
What problems can arise during parturition?
Most cats give birth without difficulty; however, dystocia (difficult birth) can occur.
A breeder should suspect something may be wrong if:
- 1. Twenty minutes of intense labor does not produce a kitten.
- 2. Ten minutes of intense labor does not expel a kitten seen at the queen’s vulva.
- 3. Gentle traction on the trapped fetus causes the queen pain.
- 4. The queen is depressed, lethargic, or has a fever (rectal temperature greater than 103°F or 39.4°C).
- 5. The queen loses fresh blood from her vulva for more than ten minutes.
In the case of dystocia, a veterinarian should be consulted.
How do I revive a non-responsive newborn kitten?
1. Tear the membranes from the nose, wipe the nose and open the mouth, tilt the kitten’s head down, and clear away any fluid.
If the cord has not broken on delivery, tear it an inch from the kitten and remove the wet, sloppy membranes. Complicated cutting and tying of the cord are not necessary. The cat would chew through it, providing a blunt crushing action to prevent bleeding. You can tear it between your first two fingers and thumb, which accomplishes the same thing.
If the kitten is not breathing, or if it was delivered tail-first and may have inhaled fluid, it is necessary to clear debris and fluid from the air passages. Hold the kitten in the palm of your hand, its back towards the palm and its neck between your forefinger and third finger, with its head protruding between your fingers. Enclose the kitten in your fingers, turn your hand palm down with the arm extended, and give a sharp swing several times. Make sure you are not near a table or other protruding edge when swinging the kitten. The swing will help force fluids out of the air passages, and further wiping of the nose and mouth will clear any remaining debris. This motion will also stimulate respiration. The kitten’s tongue is a reliable indicator of respiration; if it is receiving sufficient oxygen, the tongue will be pink; if not, it will have a bluish tint.
The next step imitates the licking of the abdominal wall, which stimulates respiration. Use a clean towel for a stroking, rubbing movement. Follow this by briskly rubbing the kitten dry, assuming it is now showing regular breathing. If it is not, some form of artificial respiration may be necessary. Mouth-to-mouth resuscitation is likely the most useful if performed carefully. Remember that blowing fluids and debris further down the respiratory tract is not helpful; these secretions must be cleared first. The capacity of kitten lungs compared to humans is quite small, so blow very gently and allow a pause for expiration. Repeat this cycle every three to five seconds, ideally using a short drinking straw, which is more hygienic and reduces the risk of damaging the kitten’s lungs through over-inflation.
Warmth is essential for the newborn. A wet kitten loses heat rapidly and cannot control its body temperature. In nature, warmth is obtained through direct body contact with the mother and conserved by the enclosed kittening bed. The first point to remember is that a newborn wet kitten loses heat quickly, which is why it’s important to rub it dry. If the mother is ill or uncooperative, gently lay the kitten in contact with a warm, well-covered hot water bottle and cover it with a blanket. Be careful not to inflict burns by having the bottle too hot. An acceptable alternative is an infrared lamp, though its disadvantages include that many cats dislike the open bed required for its use and that it may overheat both mother and kittens, reducing normal nursing contact. Ideally, the temperature in
