Savory (Satureja), a member of the mint family, is historically one of the most important herbs in European cookery and can still be found in spice racks today. Indigenous to Southern Europe and parts of the Mediterranean, savory was one of the few herbs available to European chefs for the hundreds of years before exploration and spice trading opened up the region to new and exotic seasonings. First mentioned in classical Greek literature and used as a culinary and medicinal herb by the Ancient Romans, savory was also one of the first herbs brought to the New World from Europe, making it significant in the history of American cooking as well.
Characteristics
There are two main varieties of savory that are relevant to the modern kitchen: summer savory (*Satureja hortensis*) and winter savory (*Satureja montana*). Summer savory is an annual herb with long, narrow, dark green leaves and a potently aromatic fragrance. Winter savory is a woody, shrub-like perennial evergreen with compact stems and branches. It has a heavier, darker aroma, which is more penetrating than that of summer savory. Both varieties are native to Europe and the Mediterranean and are “low-growing” plants, reaching no more than a few feet in height. They bear white or pale pink flowers and are often used in landscaping and aesthetic gardening.
Savory is known for its highly aromatic leaves and piney, peppery flavor.
Common Uses
As mentioned above, savory was one of the few herbs readily available in isolated European regions before world exploration brought in spices and herbs from other places. It was important in medieval cookery and helps to define the flavors of that period’s cuisine. While its use declined with the arrival of herbs from the New World, savory has endured and is still widely used today. Savory has a milder quality than other herbs and is useful in seasoning delicate or somewhat bland items that could easily be overpowered by more potent ingredients like oregano. This quality also makes it appealing for herb blending, and it is a staple ingredient in bouquet garnis and other blends.
The herb works very well with meat, poultry, eggs, and cheese, and it brings out flavors in sautéed greens. Savory is known for seasoning grain and bean dishes like lentils, peas, bulgur, rice, pilafs, and grain-based casseroles. It is sometimes referred to as “the bean herb.” It also works in soups, braises, and stews such as fricot and can be chopped and added to salads or used similarly to parsley as a garnish. Winter savory, with its sharper flavor, is also preferable in marinades and pickles.
Savory, particularly the summer variety, has also played roles in natural and herbal medicine. It was said to be a reliable antiseptic and could be used to treat digestive ailments. Like many herbs, it was also believed to have aphrodisiac qualities. The leaves and branches of the plant could also be burned to scent and/or disinfect spaces after times of illness. The herb contains oils like terpinene, thymol, and carvacrol, making it a good addition to mouthwashes or natural toothpastes. The plant was also appealing to bees and recommended to beekeepers to attract the insects to their hives.
Use and Storage
Summer savory and winter savory can be purchased fresh at most farmers’ markets or specialty grocers. The fresh leaves dry well and can be saved for later use. Savory can also be infused into vinegar or oils for cooking. Dried savory should be stored in an airtight container out of direct sunlight.
Use It:
- In herb blends like French herbs de Provence
- Dried and sprinkled on pizza, garlic bread, or breadsticks
- To season green vegetables
- Chopped and added to salads
- Used in place of parsley as a garnish
- Infused into oil or vinegar for cooking
- In soups, stews, and marinades
- To season any bean, lentil, or rice dish
- In sauces and dips
- Paired with most meats
Recipe Using Savory
Roasted Garlic and Herb Baked Potatoes
6 baking potatoes ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1-2 tablespoons fresh chopped savory ½ teaspoon dried sage 1 bulb garlic, roasted (see GARLIC for recipe), insides scooped out and set aside 1 teaspoon parsley, chopped Salt and pepper to taste
Wash the potatoes. Rub the outside with a bit of olive or canola oil. Wrap in tinfoil and bake in an oven at 375°F for 45 minutes.
While the potatoes are baking, heat oil over medium-low heat in a small saucepan. Add sage and cook until fragrant. Add savory and stir, cooking for another 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat, let cool, and pour the oil into a small bowl. Add roasted garlic and stir to combine.
Carefully remove the potatoes. Split them down the middle. Spoon the garlic and herb mixture into the center of the potato. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
