And you thought that “The War of the Worlds” was an epic fight between two worlds, human and alien. Well, hang on, because a new “war” is brewing between the old world of traditional cork stoppers and the increasingly popular use of the screw cap.
The Tradition of Corks vs. The Rise of Screw Caps
It has always been part of the mystique to order that prestigious bottle of wine for dinner and wait in anticipation as the wine steward opens the bottle and places the cork in front of you. Do I pick it up, sniff it, or cut into it to check for mold? Everyone watches as you examine the bottle, the cork, swirl, sniff, and sip, determining whether it’s exactly what you expected—or not.
But today, that experience is quickly becoming the exception, not the rule, as many wineries worldwide have at least tried the screw cap. Some began with white wines, but now, many well-known wineries that produce fine wines are bottling reds with screw caps as well. Examples include Sauvignon Blanc from Capitello in New Zealand, Charles Creek in Alexander Valley, California, and Abacela in Southern Oregon. In fact, you’re hard-pressed to find wines from New Zealand that are not sealed with metal screw caps.
Will Corks Ever Be Replaced by Screw Caps?
So, what’s the bottom line? In my opinion, it comes down to which method preserves the flavors and condition of the wine. We all know corks have their issues, and plastic synthetic corks have been found to not fully seal. Anyone who has opened a tainted bottle of wine knows that experience isn’t pleasant, especially at home, where a replacement is not readily available.
Over the past couple of years, I’ve often ordered screw cap bottles of wine or pulled one from my wine cellar and have never encountered a problem. My only complaint? Not being able to use my fancy electric cork remover—though I must admit, I haven’t tried it on metal caps yet.
In recent years, wineries and research facilities like U.C. Davis in Northern California have conducted comparative studies. Many of these studies, much to the dismay of the “Wine Snob,” have found that metal screw caps eliminate oxidation issues and ensure a taint-free sip of well-aged, high-quality wine.
But will all wines eventually be sealed with screw caps and replace corks? Chances are no—at least not in our lifetimes, unless a government agency decides they’re hazardous to our health. Until then, there will always be diehards in Europe, and yes, in the United States, who will insist that cork is the traditional way and will refuse to change.
I doubt we’ll ever see a wine list with a separate section for screw cap wines. It will always be your choice to send the wine back if it has a screw cap when it’s brought to your table before opening.
As for my wine cellar, or in a restaurant, or anywhere else, I believe one thing: if you’re ordering a quality wine from a quality winery, the winemaker has chosen the best method for sealing that wine to satisfy you. If they’ve chosen a screw cap for my $200 bottle of Bordeaux, then so be it—I’m all in. After all, it’s what’s in your glass that really counts, right?
