Floating Floors

The beauty of floating floors is that they lock or glue together at their edges but do not require adhesion to the subfloor with adhesive or nails. Instead, a floating floor “floats” on a cushioned underlayment designed specifically for this application. Glue-together styles have faded in popularity due to the mess they created as they were blocked and tapped together, spreading glue on the nice finished surface. Click-together or “Lock and Fold” style engineered flooring has leapt to the forefront, and it’s hard to argue with the ease of installation.

Just like solid flooring, you may need a little “persuasion” to get the pieces to marry and lock. Using a tapping block and hammer, tap the pieces into place. Start at the longest wall that is parallel to the direction of the layout and place a few spare pieces of scrap flooring along the edges, creating an expansion gap. It’s imperative to get all your flooring pieces squarely locked together; otherwise, the gaps will haunt the rest of the installation.

The main attractions of floating floors are easier installation, no glues or adhesives, and the ability to cover a subfloor that may be substandard, have many layers, or even cover asbestos. Because the floor rests on a cushioned pad, it’s comfortable when standing for long periods. Some criticism is directed toward floating floors due to this same softer—some describe it as “squishy”—feeling underfoot. You can create a more solid-feeling floating floor by utilizing a better-grade underlayment and using premium, thicker flooring, both of which will lend a more solid surface.

The most important consideration with floating floor installation is to provide enough room at the edges for expansion. Since the floor is “locked” together as one piece, it needs room to swell; otherwise, buckling will occur. Leave room at the edges and around any solid or fixed objects the flooring intersects with. Quarter round or base molding will cover the gap, so your floor will still have a neat appearance.

Glue-Down Hardwood Floors

For our purposes, let’s say you’re installing an engineered floor over a concrete slab at grade, and all moisture problems have been addressed. Snap a straight line about 10 or 11 plank widths out (figuring a 3 ¼-inch plank, plus 3/8″ for your expansion gap at the edge) from the longest parallel wall and start your installation.

Trowel your flooring adhesive back toward the wall and spread it evenly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Tap your first board into place tightly against the chalk line and a few pieces of scrap flooring that you’ve nailed or glued to the concrete at the edge of the chalkline. These scraps give you something to work against, and once you’ve completed this section, you’ll simply remove them. Work toward the wall, tapping each piece into place, always checking back to your earlier work, as boards like to wriggle free if no one is looking!

Be extremely careful with flooring glue, as it can get on everything. Clean up drips and blobs with a damp rag immediately—especially on the finished surface of your new flooring! Mineral spirits may work well here, but please test first on a scrap of the pre-finished material.

Once you’ve laid the flooring from your chalkline to the wall, you can work from the other direction, from your chalkline toward the other wall. You may want to give the adhesive time to set up, providing a more solid surface to kneel on (don’t forget soft, padded knee pads!). When using a tapping block, be aware of the tongue and groove or snap-lock edge, and be careful not to damage it or scuff the finish.

Nailed Hardwood Floors

Probably the most common, and certainly the oldest, method of attaching flooring to the subfloor, nailing or stapling is a tried and true installation technique. Create a control line toward the middle of the room by measuring out from the longest parallel wall and snapping a chalkline. Then, begin at the wall with your first piece to be nailed down—always adding that 3/8″ expansion gap at the edge. Some people like to “set” the edge board in place by popping a few finish nails at the wall edge (which will be covered by your base molding).

Then, using a pneumatic nail gun, drive your holding nails into the tongue at a 45-degree angle, remembering to keep the nail back away from the tongue, which needs to be clear for fitting into the groove of the next board. Fit the next board and tap it into place with a block, then repeat the nailing. Make sure to keep checking your measurements against your chalkline to ensure your installation stays square and true. When installing hardwood floors, always check your progress against your measured chalkline, as the eye will detect any variances out of true.

Which Direction to Install

Think about the direction you want the boards to run in your new floor. Generally, we like to have floorboards lead us into a room, as it gives the illusion of more space. For compound areas made up of several rooms, it’s sometimes nice to change orientation at the threshold of a new room. Finally, for a distinctive look, consider installing hardwood floors on a diagonal or 45-degree angle. Yes, it involves perhaps 5 to 10 percent more waste, but it’s a smashing look that sets your home apart.

Look Before You Leap

Buy all your flooring from one supplier, and at one time. This gives you the best chance of consistency in your flooring. That said, expect some pieces that you won’t want to use, and you need to identify them early and set them aside. Open up at least 3–4 bundles of your flooring and dry-set it into place in the room. This way, you can be sure to stagger lengths and color variations. This is called “racking,” and serious installers always rack their boards before they drive the first nail. Installing hardwood floors is as much about preparation as it is about installation!

Your Brand-New Floor

If you’ve just installed a new engineered floor, chances are you’ve chosen a pre-finished product, meaning the stain and varnish coating have been pre-applied. But look carefully: Are there any gaps that you couldn’t get as tight as you’d like? What about around the edges where your quarter round or cove base meets the flooring? Yes, folks, we live in an imperfect world—that’s why there’s caulk! Ask your retailer about filler that is appropriate for your flooring, as each reacts differently to various finishes. You’ll want to find a compatible filler that won’t create more mess and work. These fillers come in a variety of colors to match your finish (if unsure, choose a shade darker) and can be applied in fine beads with a caulk gun. Just like caulk, less is more—you can always add more.
Let’s say you installed an unfinished plank floor and notice gaps before the sanding and finishing phase. Good, that’s the best time for filler too. Select a water-based interior-grade filler that will expand and contract with the natural movement of the wood (ask at the flooring place or consult local handymen). Using a putty knife, squeegee the filler into cracks, voids, and seams. Don’t worry if the filler is considerably lighter than your floor—it will match closely with your wooden flooring once you stain the entire surface. Once dry, sand, seal, and finish.

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Let’s take a look at some of the situations where you might want to get a little extra help – or turn the job over completely to a pro.

Hardwood Floors Installed Over Cement Subfloor

If your cement subfloor has moisture issues, do you know how to test for trouble? Do you know the best way to seal the subfloor? Which sealers will work together with a flooring adhesive? Do you want – or need – to utilize a plywood subfloor over the cement? If you’re a city dweller, are you required or would it be appropriate to use sound dampening material in the installation? Are you comfortable using flooring adhesive, which is extremely messy, and needs close supervision during the installation?

These are some of the important questions to consider before diving right in yourself. You might want to get a consultation on your project before you decide which way to go. Contractors can give you an idea about the scope of the job, the estimated cost, and some of the potential problems. If you suspect that your installation may be problematic, and you don’t have a lot of experience, you might want to pay a little extra and “leave it to the pros!”

If You Suspect a Bad Subfloor

You’ll have a number of clues when your subfloor is bad, in the form of creaks, groans, soft or spongy spots, Perhaps there’s an associated water issue such as a leaky pipes or fixture. Or an older house where you may even see the floors sloping from one side of the room to the other. Maybe the room is built over an unimproved crawlspace – that’s a high probability floor damage culprit.

All of these situations most likely require some associated carpentry once the old floor is removed. Then you’ll be able to make a good visual and physical assessment of the subfloor. If you go further and remove that too due to obvious damage, then you’ll have a close-up inspection of the joists. A possible plan of attack here might be to remove the floor yourself to save some money. It can be done fairly easily (always be careful at the edges and around door jambs.) Although remember that you’ll need to cart all the old flooring away.

Let’s say you’ve removed your old wood floor, and – as you suspected, you’ve found a lousy old subfloor, that’s spongy, uneven, and out of level. Depending on your comfort level, you might be hiring a flooring consultant to take it over from here. We can’t stress enough that if your subfloor is below standard, and not solid, and level, your hardwood flooring will never look good on top of it. If it means you have to hire a pro to do some subfloor carpentry, you’ll be glad in the long run.

Intricate of Difficult Installations

Do you have several rooms being done at once? Can you afford to have those rooms out of service for an extended period of time while you do the work? Are there stairs, steps or multi-levels involved? Considering mixing woods for a grand effect, or utilizing some parquet elements, or inlaid elements? What about the sheer size of the project, is it something you can tackle in a few days, or is it bound to become “the winter of your discontent?” What about using traditional tongue and grooved boards in a nail down installation; do you have the proper tools, such as a pneumatic nail gun? And what about unfinished floors; are you comfortable sanding and finishing your floors?

Again, these situations lean in favor of hiring a flooring consultant to handle a bigger or more complex job. The finishing alone is a mind-bending task involving heavy belt sanders, and edge sanders, then cleaning, then applying several coats of your finish. Most good flooring contractors today feature dustless sanding equipment that’s attached to a huge vacuum device outside. The volume of dust removed and the relative ease of cleanup is well worth the extra dollars.

What to Ask When Hiring a Flooring Consultant

Before you hire anyone, do some homework. Go to a few flooring retailers and discuss the project you’re considering, and ask their advice. If it’s a smaller room, and you’re thinking about pre-finished click and fold flooring, they may tell you to go forth and conquer it on your own. But they’ll also be the first to warn you off a job that would put you in over your head.

Then ask them who they recommend, and why. Once you have a few names, call them and discuss the project, tell them the materials you’re considering, and any other details or concerns, such as allergic sensitivity, etc. A good contractor will want to come by and size up the job in person. Be sure to ask him the following questions:

• Has he ever installed this type of flooring before?
• Are there any special concerns with this type of flooring?
• Would he recommend this type of flooring, or does he have any alternate ideas? (Remember, this is an opportunity for you to listen to a pro in this field, and perhaps learn some other installation ideas and techniques – don’t gloss over this, but rather spend time talking through your ideas and his.
• Does he work alone or have a crew?
• Will he personally be on the jobsite, doing the work?
• Can he give you a solid start and finish date for the project?
• Does he guarantee his work?
• Does he have a portfolio of finished jobs that you can see?
• Can he provide you with 3 references from previous jobs? Get their numbers and call yourself.

Remember too, that an installer is a great resource at the end of the cycle, but consider utilizing a flooring consultant at the beginning of the cycle. Better flooring stores have designer/consultants on staff to help you wade through the thousands of choices. Bring pictures of your space, and ask for their ideas. Try not to be set in your ways, but open to new materials, designs, and techniques. You’ll probably see some ideas that you hadn’t even considered! If you do spend time with a design consultant, it’s really only fair to buy your material from that store. Remember too, that they can help you choose a quality installer who will do good work to continue to get their recommendations.

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3 strip flooring, an engineered hardwood option, combines the dramatic look of multiple wood pieces with the ease of installing wide-plank boards. Each board, up to 95⅜ inches long and 7⅞ inches wide, is crafted from 2⅝-inch hardwood veneer “fillets” glued together, resembling a butcher block. These shorter pieces, often leftovers from longer cuts, are bonded to a stable multi-layer plywood base, minimizing warping, cracking, and expansion common in solid wood floors.

Featuring a snap-fit installation that varies by manufacturer, 3 strip flooring ensures a tight, machined fit for easy assembly. It can be glued down or installed as a floating floor, the latter being ideal for radiant heating systems to accommodate temperature fluctuations.

Install Anywhere with Confidence

Unlike solid plank flooring, 3 strip engineered flooring is versatile, suitable for installation over cement subfloors and even in basements. Moisture, once a major barrier, can now be managed with modern sealers. For glue-down installations, use a compatible sealer and adhesive system from the same manufacturer to ensure proper bonding. In high-moisture areas, consider engineering solutions like sump pumps or French drains, and use vapor barriers, such as plastic sheeting with taped seams, for floating installations. Some underlayments include built-in moisture barriers, simplifying preparation.

Floating or glue-down methods eliminate the need for nailing into cement subfloors, making 3 strip flooring a practical choice for previously challenging spaces.

Radiant Heat Compatibility

3 strip flooring can be installed over radiant heat systems (electric or hot water) with precautions:

• Maintain room humidity between 45–60% to prevent drying or cracking, using humidifiers or dehumidifiers as needed.
• Allow the engineered floor to acclimate by waiting two days before activating heat, then gradually increasing it over 7–10 days.
• Keep radiant heat below 81°F to protect the flooring.

Following these steps ensures lasting performance over radiant heat systems.

Why Choose 3 Strip Flooring?

3 strip flooring stands out for its unique aesthetic. Unlike traditional hardwood floors with long, uniform boards, 3 strip uses short, random-length, and random-color fillets, creating a vibrant, kaleidoscopic pattern. Medium-toned woods like oak, jarrah, walnut, or ash showcase a dynamic mix of light and dark strips, knots, and grain, adding visual rhythm to any room. This “staccato” look complements incoming light, enhancing a space’s depth and appeal.

For a cohesive finish, purchase matching trim pieces—such as reducers, end caps, T-molding, shoe molding, or stair nosing—from the same vendor. With its blend of style, stability, and versatility, 3 strip flooring is a bold, beautiful choice for any home.

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Hardwood floors are the most popular choice for wood flooring, and for good reason. They are exceptionally durable and offer an extensive selection of wood types, colors, and grain patterns. Below, we explore the incredible options available today to help you choose the perfect hardwood floor for your space.

Choosing the Right Installation Method
Hardwood flooring comes in two primary types: traditional tongue-and-groove planks and modern engineered floors. Each has unique benefits and installation methods.

Traditional Plank Flooring
Traditional plank floors are typically 3/4-inch thick, though thicknesses can range down to 5/16-inch. Thicker planks are ideal for long-term use, as they can be refinished multiple times, with each sanding removing a small portion of the wood’s depth. If you’re preparing a home for sale, thinner planks may suffice. These floors are installed by tapping planks into place and nailing them to the subfloor, often using a pneumatic nail gun. Any height inconsistencies or uneven butt ends are smoothed during the sanding and finishing process.

Engineered Flooring
Engineered floors are a popular trend in flooring due to their distinct advantages. Constructed with a plywood substrate, they are less susceptible to warping, checking, or buckling compared to solid wood. The top layer, or “wear layer,” is a veneer of hardwood, typically pre-finished to save time and effort. When selecting engineered flooring, check the thickness of the wear layer by inspecting the board ends, as a thicker veneer allows for future refinishing. Engineered floors are designed to “snap” together, often using the innovative Lock and Fold joining method, which eliminates the need for extensive tapping or blocking. Among hardwood flooring types, pre-finished engineered floors are the fastest-growing category due to their ease of installation and durability.

Selecting the Ideal Plank Width

Plank width significantly impacts the aesthetic and performance of your floor. In the past, wide planks—often made from softwoods like hemlock, pine, or Douglas fir, or hardwoods like oak or cherry—were common. These wide planks create a rustic look, making them ideal for colonial homes, farmhouses, or vacation cottages.

As milling technology advanced, narrower planks, typically 2 1/4 inches wide, became the standard nearly a century ago. This width offers greater stability and allows for more color variation across the floor, though it requires more installation effort due to the increased number of planks. Wider boards are more prone to movement caused by seasonal temperature and humidity changes. For better performance, consider straight-grain boards, which are more expensive but less likely to shift. Modern engineered floors now offer wider widths, combining the rustic appeal of wide planks with the stability and convenience of engineered products.

Considering Board Length
Both plank and engineered flooring are available in lengths ranging from 12 to 84 inches, with custom-milled options for longer boards. Longer boards create the illusion of more space when oriented to run the length of a room, while shorter boards add visual interest through varied color and pattern. Engineered floors often include more shorter pieces, and imported woods or lower-grade materials typically come in shorter lengths. When installing random-length boards, stagger the butt ends to avoid clustering seams, creating a natural, randomized pattern.

Exploring Bevels and Textures
Most hardwood flooring features flat, edge-to-edge planks, but beveled-edge planks are available for a distinctive look. Be cautious, as bevels can complicate moving heavy furniture, and small wheels may catch, causing scratches. Refinishing beveled floors is also more challenging.

Hand-scraped flooring is a popular trend, offering a textured, artisanal appearance. While labeled “hand-scraped,” many products are machine-milled for consistency. Truly hand-scraped floors are pricier but provide a unique, coveted aesthetic for enthusiasts.

Acrylic-Impregnated Flooring for High-Traffic Areas
For high-traffic environments like stores, restaurants, or lounges, acrylic-impregnated hardwood floors offer a durable solution. These floors are pressure-treated with acrylic resins that fill wood pores, enhancing hardness and water resistance. While regular maintenance is still required, these floors withstand wear better than traditional hardwood. Available in various species and colors, they are typically glued down or “floated” during installation.

Finished vs. Unfinished Flooring
Once you’ve selected your flooring type, decide between pre-finished or unfinished options. Pre-finished engineered flooring is popular for its affordability and quick installation, offering great value. However, lower-grade pre-finished floors may appear more uniform, especially in darker stains, compared to higher-grade options or custom-finished floors. On-site finishing allows for greater customization but requires more time and effort.

Certain woods, like cherry and Douglas fir, naturally darken and redden over time, developing a rich, warm patina. To highlight their natural beauty, consider a light stain or clear finish rather than a heavy, dark stain that masks their unique characteristics.

Conclusion
With a variety of installation methods, plank widths, lengths, textures, and finishes, hardwood flooring offers endless possibilities to suit any style or budget. Whether you prefer the timeless appeal of traditional planks or the modern convenience of engineered floors, your choice will enhance your space for years to come.

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So Much to Choose From

The problem with the breadth of today’s selection of exotic hardwood floors is deciding on exactly what’s appropriate for your home. For example, African Wenge is a dark, radiant beauty that’s simply stunning in flooring, furniture and cabinets, but is it appropriate for your center-hall colonial? Probably not.

Think about your home in terms of the period that it was built, (or the period that it recreates.) For example a New England saltbox is picture perfect finished with wide plank, pegged, heart pine floors. Whereas a sleek, modern Pacific Coast cliffhanger would be dazzling with the Wenge, or Bloodwood, or any of the more vibrant woods. That’s not to say that you must bound by the restrictions of the period, but it helps to know what the expectations are – especially when reselling a home.

Here’s a story that illustrates that: When selling our 1840 Federal, we had renovated the upstairs very faithfully to the period (Douglas fir floors), with the exception of a fabulous slate and glass master bath, that was truly Architectural Digest spectacular. One couple wrinkled their noses and told us that they expected the baths to be period-perfect! Gee, I wonder if they would’ve preferred a chamber pot?

Origin of the Species

Let’s look at some of the many woods that are available for exotic hardwood floors, with their origin and a brief description of each. There are doubtless other species that aren’t listed here, but this covers many of the more popular exotic hardwood species available today.

Amendoin: South American, tannish to warm orange, clear to medium grained with brown and red highlights

Ash: North American, not exotic, but rarely used in flooring, clearish white to blond with contrasting light brown grain (look at a baseball bat)

Australian Cypress: Australia, peppered with lots of knots, warm amber with contrasting brown knots

Bloodwood: Brazil, deep rich reddish, orange, brownish – warm and truly stunning

Bubinga: Africa, reddish brown with contrasting red-to purple vertical grain lines – gorgeous

Brazilian Cherry: South America, similar to American Cherry, but slightly more tan/orange. Deepens to reddish brown.

Brazilian Teak: South America, an oily brownish tan wood, with slightly contrasting grain.

Brazilian Walnut: Brazil, A lovely alternative to American walnut, which is only available in recycled material, stable medium to rich browns

Bolivian Rosewood: South America, rosy, rich with contrasting graining in reddish brown

Doussie: Africa, golden flax to dark brown, with interesting contrasting grains in brownish orange, darkens over time

Hickory: North America, Light white to medium browns with clear delineations in the same plank, unusual and elegant, An American exotic

Lapacho – Patagonian Walnut: South America, golden, medium to darker brown, can have green, darkens to warm golden amber brown

Patagonian Rosewood – Agnico: South America, wide range of colors and tones from lights to reds, orange, brown even black, changes over time to deep red brown hue.

Padouk – Africa: Deep reds, orange hues and browns, changes dramatically to darker reds and deep brown over time, stunning

Santos Mahogany: South America, Very stable, lovely graining, orange, tan, amber, even purplish, with modest darkening over time

Tigerwood: South America, lively contrasting reddish grains on this golden to orange wood, deepens over time to warm reddish brown

Wenge: Africa, dark chocolate to warm yellow with vivid dark contrasting graining, already dark, Wenge deepens to a deep, warm brown in time

Ecological Considerations

While some of these woods will come as solid flooring, more likely you’ll find exotics as engineered flooring. This is good for a few reasons. First, it actually uses lees of surface wood, which is only a top veneer over a plywood base, using less of the exotic wood, thus stretching the resource further. Second, some of these exotics exhibit less stable characteristics, so when packaged in an engineered panel, these less stable tendencies are mitigated by the stable plywood base.

Also ask your flooring supplier if these exotics are harvested on a sustainable basis. Are they FSC certified? Many wood manufacturers are willingly embracing new ecological guidelines as a way to bolster their sales, by selling a responsibly manufactured product.

Finishing Your Exotic Hardwood Floors

Be sure to check with your retailer if you are planning to finish your unfinished exotic material, as some of the woods present problems with traditional finishes, such as Brazilian Teak. You may have to use oil based finishing products, or even wax-based products depending on the species.

Also, we’d recommend avoiding darker stains, to let the beauty of the grain and pattern to show through. Most woods darken over time – some dramatically – so you don’t want to create muddy-finish floor. Especially if it could be a regal dark and deep natural tone, without any help from a stain.

Also, we’d recommend a softer, satin or matte finish to allow the grain to show, rather reflect like a mirror. A semi gloss will give you a nice sheen with making it look like an ice rink.

Finally, be sure to purchase all your molding pieces at the same time, and from the same manufacturer if possible. These pieces include bullnoses, shoe moldings, transitions, and quarter round – all those little pieces that complete a hardwood floor installation. Best to use the same wood, rather than introduce a foreign species into your exotic masterpiece.

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Hard or Soft?

Woods are classified into hardwood and softwood categories based on their density and ability to resist wear. Some of the most popular hardwoods for flooring include white oak, red oak, maple, beech, hickory, walnut, cherry, ash, and bamboo. These woods are prized for their hardness, which makes them resistant to dents and scratches. Hardwood floors show wear only on the surface and can easily be refinished with a light sanding and reapplication of stain and varnish.
Softwoods, on the other hand, are more prone to denting and scratching, although some consider this wear part of their charm. Popular softwood floors include pine, cedar, hemlock, and fir. These woods offer a rich, mellow tone that is highly regarded for rustic applications, such as in cabins or lodges. Softwoods also mellow into rich, warm colors, especially Douglas fir, which is prized for its yellow-to-red spectrum as it ages. However, softwoods are not ideal for high-traffic areas or spaces with heavy furniture, as they can be easily damaged. Additionally, pets’ nails can cause significant wear. Refinishing softwoods can be tricky, as sanding machines may create low spots unless constantly moved. There’s no doubt that softwoods require more maintenance than hardwoods, but for many, the authentic, rustic warm glow of the wood is worth it.

Better Living Through Science: Engineered Flooring

The most significant recent breakthrough in the flooring industry is the introduction of engineered flooring. Engineered flooring uses a stable plywood base with a surface laminate made of the finished wood, such as oak, cherry, maple, and others. The plywood base (which consists of several layers of wood laminates glued together at perpendicular grain directions) provides dimensional stability, reducing movement and warping, which are common with solid plank flooring. This feature makes engineered flooring much easier to install, as it stays straight and true. Additionally, engineered flooring is often sold in shorter lengths, making it easier to transport and work with, as the butt joints (where two ends meet) will always align straight without warping. Furthermore, since each piece is uniformly deep, you won’t experience the traditional “bump” where the ends meet.
Engineered flooring is almost always pre-finished, so once it’s installed, you’re done! It can be installed traditionally with tongue-and-groove fitting and nailing, glued directly to the subfloor, or, in some cases, with a metal-tab “snap-fit” feature that allows you to click the floor together. Engineered floors offer homeowners more options, such as the ability to install directly onto a cement slab—something that was not advisable with non-stable plank flooring. Engineered flooring is also suitable for use over radiant heat floors, unlike traditional wood floors.

Reclaimed Wood Flooring

Another exciting trend in flooring is the emergence of reclaimed lumber, which is milled into planks or engineered flooring. Reclaimed lumber offers two distinct benefits: 1) It recycles old wood from barns and factories that would otherwise end up in a landfill, and 2) The aged wood offers a richness and character that is impossible to find in new lumber. Popular reclaimed woods include hemlock, Douglas fir, southern pine, and cypress. The grain patterns, distress marks, and mellow tones of these woods create a floor with undeniable character.

New World Order: Flooring from Around the Globe

As the world becomes more interconnected, we’re seeing a rise in exotic woods being used in flooring. Species such as Brazilian Cherry (Jatoba), Santos Mahogany (Cabriuva), Brazilian Teak (Cumaru), Bolivian Rosewood (Tiete), Tigerwood (Brazilian Koa), African Rosewood (Bubinga), Ebony, Cork, and Bamboo are showing up in flooring centers and even large home improvement stores. While these exotic woods tend to be more expensive than domestically sourced woods, their wide range of colors and unique styles make them worth considering for a truly distinctive floor.

Green Floors: Eco-minded Materials

No industry is untouched by the global push for environmental preservation, especially in forestry. There are several ways to satisfy your desire for a wood floor while maintaining environmental responsibility. Look for wood that has been grown and harvested in an eco-friendly manner, such as through selective harvesting or farmed wood. Bamboo is considered one of the “greener” flooring materials. Actually a species of grass, bamboo grows incredibly fast and is highly sustainable. There are several organizations dedicated to certifying wood products for sustainability, including The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), and the American Tree Farm System (ATFS). Of these, FSC is regarded as the most stringent in its certification process. Ask your dealer to help guide you through their selection of environmentally conscious wood flooring options.

What Lurks Beneath?

Before you replace your existing floor, it might be worth peeling back the layers to see what’s hidden underneath. I’ve come across perfectly good oak flooring with carpet glued or tacked to it, which you would never have suspected, as well as beautiful, pre-war hardwood beneath 1950s linoleum. In older homes, sometimes the subfloor is made of random-length hardrock maple. Explore a corner where you can dig down through the layers without creating an unsightly scar. When you find an interesting floor beneath, chances are it’ll be riddled with nail holes or covered with linoleum adhesive. Don’t worry—the nail holes will add character once you’ve sanded and refinished the wood, and the adhesive (while difficult) can be removed with solvents, scraping, and sanding. These older floors, brought back to life, often add unique charm and a bit of unexpected history to your home.

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Hand-scraping was originally done in the pre-power tool days, on-site, after the rough floor had been laid. Workers used draw knives to smooth out the rough saw marks on the planks, creating a comfortable walking surface. However, without fine milling and sanding, the hand-scraping left a distinctively grooved surface. Although smooth to the touch, the wood features ridges and grooves left by the knife.

As Americans shed their rustic past like a winter coat, they eagerly embraced machine-milled floors as they became available. This relegated hand-scraped flooring to more rural and remote areas. Over time, the uniformity of 2 ¼” width boards with shiny, smooth finishes became monotonous, and people began searching for “new” alternatives. In recent years, there has been a resurgence of wide plank floors, top-nailed or pegged floors, rough-sawn, and hand-scraped flooring materials.

Another trend complementing this return to the past is the recycling of antique wooden beams, lumber, and flooring into modern flooring materials. The lumber is harvested from old buildings, barns, and factories, then de-nailed and milled into tongue-and-groove flooring or used as the top laminate in modern, engineered floors. Tongue-and-groove boards are the traditional nail-down type, while engineered flooring offers various installation methods, including nail-down, glue-down, and snap-and-lock floating installations. The advantage of using antique wood is its rich aging and patina. In some cases, it’s the only way to use rare or extinct species, such as American Elm and American Chestnut. And, as you might expect, recycled flooring is also available with hand-scraped finishes.

Man Versus Machine

While many floors are labeled “hand-scraped,” this may only describe the look, not the actual process. Most new hand-scraped flooring is machine-milled to recreate the hand-scraped appearance. The result looks good and offers a pleasant tactile feel, but critics point out that the patterns tend to repeat, which can be a drawback. This is more noticeable in darker finished woods and less so in lighter finishes. The advantage of machine finishing, of course, is its lower cost compared to the labor-intensive process of hand-scraping individual floorboards. The real benefit of authentic hand-scraped floors is the unique, distinct, and truly handcrafted look they offer.

Where to Find Hand-Scraped Flooring

When looking for hand-scraped floor ideas, try visiting high-end retail establishments like upscale clothing stores, restaurants, and wine bars. These types of places often feature hand-scraped flooring, and you can gather plenty of ideas before heading to your local home retailer. In big-box stores, you’ll find a variety of hand-scraped flooring options from different suppliers. Be sure to ask the most knowledgeable salesperson (preferably someone with installation experience) lots of questions about installation, wear, refinishing, warranties, and more. Remember, this is a long-term investment—potentially lasting 20 to 50 years!

After exploring the big-box options, visit a custom flooring store where you can see actual hand-scraped floors. You’ll definitely notice a difference. The key question is whether it’s worth paying extra for. Don’t hesitate to ask the salesperson plenty of questions. There can be texture differences between manufacturers, so comparing options side by side is important. Also, ask where the flooring is made, as some offshore products may not meet the quality of domestic flooring. If possible, ask to see installations of your top choices—seeing a complete floor, rather than just a small sample, can be helpful.

Pre-finished or Finish It Yourself

Most modern hand-scraped flooring comes as engineered and pre-finished, so you simply install it and you’re good to go. Other flooring may come unfinished, requiring additional work on your part. Sanding is not an option, as it would erase the character you’ve paid for. Many people opt for a “hand-rubbed” finish that complements the texture of the wood, creating a softer appearance. Rubbing the finish into the surface accentuates the high and low spots, resulting in a subtly varied surface with light and dark tones. You might want to explore oil finishes, such as tung oil, for a warm, inviting look.

A Floor of Distinction

Once you compare hand-scraped flooring with traditional, smooth-finished flooring, you’ll appreciate the visual and tactile appeal. However, there are other ways to add distinction to your flooring project. For example, distressed wood features random dents, bruises, and “wear” marks that mimic an old, well-worn floor. Top-nailing or “pegging” your floors also gives them a great antique look. A custom finish on a smooth, unfinished wooden floor—using light and dark stains—can create a rich, highly varied appearance, with darker edges and bevels and a lighter center. We recommend experimenting with finishing techniques on scrap pieces before applying them to your new floor.

The beauty of hand-scraped flooring is enhanced by natural light, so consider installing it in sunny, well-lit areas like living rooms, family rooms, or bright kitchens. You might want to orient the boards to run toward the windows to accentuate the linear texture of the wood and maximize the natural light in the room.

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Earth Friendly and Foot Friendly

Cork is actually the bark of the Mediterranean Cork Oak tree, which is harvested by carefully slicing the outer layer off the tree to avoid damaging it. This practice is believed to improve the health of the tree, and the bark grows back in place, ready to be harvested again in nine years. This sustainable crop is recognized by individuals and organizations for its inherent eco-friendliness.

The cork bark is made up of many cells containing a harmless gas that compresses underfoot and then bounces back to its original form. This makes cork extremely comfortable to walk or stand on because of the “give.” Cork is naturally resistant to water and microbial attacks, which protects the tree. These properties also make it an ideal surface for kitchens, which are prone to both water and food spills. Cork is also fire retardant and non-toxic when set ablaze (try THAT with a vinyl floor!).

Cork doesn’t absorb like hardwood can, and thus creates a non-permeable barrier on your floor that neither absorbs microbes or allergens, nor releases any gases or particulates. This makes it ideal for allergy-sensitive applications or anywhere indoor air quality is important.

From Wine Bottles to Wine Cellars

Cork has made the long journey from a modest bottle stopper to a top choice in modern flooring. Its resilience makes it ideal for high-traffic areas and kitchens, where standing is noticeably more comfortable. Cork also has fantastic sound-deadening properties, making it a favorite for apartments and high-rises. But think about your home library or kids’ playroom—couldn’t they benefit from comfortable, sound-reducing flooring? A cheeky application would be a wine cellar, where cork would serve to insulate the cool floor, provide comfort and protection from breakage, and, of course, serve as a visual metaphor!

Many Styles to Choose From

Cork flooring is available in a number of ways, both pre-finished and unfinished. Solid cork tiles are quite popular and easy to glue directly to the subfloor. A newer option is engineered cork flooring, which is somewhat like a cork sandwich: a layer of cork underlayment, then a High-Density Fiberboard (HDF) layer for stability, followed by a top layer of cork. These boards are approximately 12” x 36” and offer the sound-dampening, insulating, and cushioning qualities of cork, while providing the structural rigidity of the HDF board. These engineered cork floors can be installed as glue-downs or floating. Finally, there are mesh-backed mosaic cork tiles that install just like ceramic mosaic sheets on adhesive, then grout them.

Cork flooring thicknesses can range from ¼” to ½”, and we recommend always opting for the thickest option for premium long-term performance in cushioning, sound-deadening, and refinishing.

Cork comes in a huge array of colors, plus unfinished options for a custom look of your own creation. Popular finishes include water-based finishes, waxes, varnish, and urethane coatings. Be sure to consult with a flooring specialist for their recommendations before purchasing a finish.

Installing Engineered Cork Flooring

When using engineered cork floorboards, make sure to start with a prepped subfloor. This means it should be level, clean, and sealed (in basement applications). Because these boards are rectangular, you’ll most likely want to orient them parallel to your longest wall, or running “with” the length of the room. Open several packages and do a “dry set” to lay out the boards as you want them to be arranged. Remember that cork will have a wide variety of color and shading, so packages will vary. Be sure to mix up colors and patterns so you don’t end up with sections that are lighter or darker but rather a well-integrated floor.

Use a chalkline as your starting point and snap the boards together according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Start by building toward the nearest wall, then reverse from the starting line out in the other direction. Always check to ensure you’re remaining true and square to the room. This applies to both glued and floating applications.

Installing Cork Flooring Tiles

Because solid cork tiles are flexible, they will mimic the irregularities in the subfloor, so you’ll need to thoroughly prep and level the subfloor. This may include sanding down joints between plywood sheets or high spots over joists, and possibly using some leveling compound to bring up low spots.

Depending on the condition of your subfloor, you may find it easier or less time-consuming to install a new medium-density fiberboard (MDF) subfloor over the top of your existing one. This will provide you with a clean, level surface (as long as there are no major underlying variations). With a new MDF subfloor, you’ll need to affix it with flooring adhesive and screw it into the existing subfloor—remember to sink the screw heads into the board, then fill and smooth over those holes.

Next, patch all seams with an engineered cement and skim-coat the floor for a smooth, pool-table finish. Seal accordingly with a complementary primer, and you’ll be ready to affix your cork tiles.

Just like engineered cork flooring, it’s important to open several packages of cork tiles and lay them out, mixing the lights and darks, plain and patterned. Using contact cement (check with the manufacturer) applied with a brush in corners and edges, and a medium-nap roller in open areas, cover an area wide enough to accommodate a row or two of tiles, and let the cement dry to a tacky state. Set your cork tiles in the tacky cement and use a roller to press them in place. The edges can be trimmed with a carpet knife or razor blade. Apply the finish as desired, and enjoy your new resilient, cushioned, and acoustic cork flooring!

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But how do you go about selecting unfinished solid flooring? Let’s take a look at some key considerations before you begin your flooring project.

Solid or Engineered Flooring

Solid flooring is exactly what it sounds like: a single board milled from a tree. It will reflect all the knots, grain variations, and color differences inherent in that tree, especially toward the edge cuts. The center cuts, or heartwood, will offer the straightest grain and fewest anomalies. As the tree is milled, the boards are separated into various grades that reflect their character. We’ll discuss lumber grading shortly.

The most common thickness for unfinished solid flooring is ¾”, which provides plenty of depth to sand and finish—not only initially but several times over the life of the floor, which could easily span a century. This is a crucial factor to consider if you plan on owning your home for a long time. Solid flooring can also come in other thicknesses, starting as thin as 5/16” and going up to 3/8” and ½”. Some of the exotic imports from Asia and Europe use these thinner thicknesses. These aren’t necessarily bad, but it’s something to consider for the long run. Remember: thicker boards = longer lifespan.

Solid flooring is best installed on above-grade floors and nailed into wooden subfloors. It is not recommended for below-grade or basement applications. A solid and level subfloor with a nailed solid floor provides a solid, great-looking result.

Engineered flooring is a relatively recent innovation, but it is sparking a new wave of do-it-yourselfers (DIYers) who appreciate the easier installation and pre-finished surface. Engineered flooring is constructed on a plywood substrate, making it less prone to the vicissitudes of wood, such as warping, checking, or buckling.

Additionally, it uses a veneer of hardwood as the top layer, which is usually pre-finished, saving both time and labor. Be sure to pay attention to the thickness of this top layer, called the “wear layer,” by inspecting the flooring from the ends. If you plan to refinish your floor over time, you might want to opt for a thicker (and more expensive) flooring option that features a thicker top veneer.

Perhaps most appealing is that engineered floors are designed to fit and “snap” together with minimal effort. The newest trend is the Lock and Fold joining method, where the two boards feature locking male/female edges that lock into place without the usual blocking and tapping associated with older styles.

Ok, you’ve looked, you’ve learned, you’ve seen the samples, and you’ve decided to select unfinished solid flooring. Good for you! Now, let’s get started.

Various Lengths, Various Widths

There is no standard length or width for solid flooring, but there are some popular sizes. For example, a traditional width is 2 ¼”, which you’ll see in softwoods like Douglas fir, and hardwoods like red oak and maple. But you can also find solid flooring in widths as large as 18-20 inches—especially from custom mills. However, be warned: solid boards this wide often display more movement and warping tendencies than narrower boards.

Wide plank floors are making a huge comeback right now, with floorboards ranging from 6” to 12”. They offer a warm, early American or rustic look, depending on the wood, the grain, and the installation. For example, you can top nail these floors using reproduction forged nails for an authentic look, or peg the floor, where a hole is drilled and a different species of peg is inserted before finishing, mimicking earlier pegged floors. Although pegging is purely decorative, it’s a beautiful recreation of early craftsmanship.

At a lumberyard, you can select boards all in the 84” range, but you must remember to stagger the ends to avoid an “end-seam” running laterally across the floor. End seams are both unsightly and less stable than measured or random-length staggering—keep end seams at least 6 inches apart.

More likely, you’ll buy a bundle of wood that will contain both long and short boards, sometimes as short as 12”. This is fine too, as it helps ensure that you’ll have a nice, random staggering of lengths as you lay out your new floor. Imported and exotic woods tend to be bundled in shorter lengths, presumably for shipping purposes.

Making the Grade

While pre-finished wooden flooring is seldom graded, you will see some variation in each bundle. By and large, however, it’s still a premium product. The exceptions are cabin grade or tavern grade, which look exactly as they sound: rustic, rough, and not all select grade. However, the price can be well worth it for less formal applications, like cabins or taverns!

Selecting unfinished solid flooring is all about the grade, so it pays to know what you’re buying. The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA) has established certification and grading protocols for unfinished flooring, which are detailed on their website as follows:

Clear
Select
Number 1. Common
Number 2. Common

The primary differentiator between these grades is the degree to which natural characteristics, such as knots and mineral streaks, or manufacturing marks, such as sticker stains, are allowed. The prominence and frequency of these characteristics increases from NOFMA Clear to NOFMA No. 2 Common.

For example, “NOFMA Clear” is mostly uniform in appearance, with a limited number of character marks, and is predominantly heartwood. “Select” also has a uniform appearance, but this grade contains more natural characters, such as knots and all the color variations associated with heartwood and sapwood. The common grades will contain even more natural characters and manufacturing marks.

Be sure to see samples of these grades at the lumberyard or store, and look at pictures of finished floors to make an informed decision. Solid wooden floors can last a lifetime, so take a few extra minutes during the selection process.

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When it’s time to plan for new cabinets, there’s a lot to consider. One of the most important decisions is whether to buy stock cabinets or go the custom route. Let’s take a look at some key factors to keep in mind when choosing cabinets for your new kitchen.

More Choices Than Ever Before

Over the past 30 years, homes have increased in size by an average of nearly 40%. According to an ABC News report, the average American home in 2005 measured 2,349 square feet, up from 1,695 square feet in 1974. Kitchens have played a significant role in this growth, nearly doubling in size to an average of 300 square feet. As homes have become larger, the kitchen has replaced the hearth as the true heart of the home.

Manufacturers of kitchen cabinetry, appliances, and hardware have responded to this trend by offering thousands of new products, features, and styles to meet the demand for the new “uber-kitchen.” Home product mega-retailers also dedicate vast amounts of space within their stores to showcase kitchen cabinets, counters, and appliances. These displays provide homeowners with unparalleled options for colors, materials, styles, and features.

When we remodeled our California rambler, we’d often grab a large coffee and spend two hours strolling up and down the aisles of our local home goods store, gathering ideas. Overwhelmed and somewhat frazzled, we’d head to our local wine bar to compare notes in a more relaxed setting. Over the course of two months, we gathered all the information we needed to make our final decisions. My advice? Do your research and explore what’s available before committing to a “cabinet-level” decision!

Alternatively, a trusted cabinet maker and installer can often guide you through the process in one or two consultations. They can offer suggestions for storage and display solutions you may not have considered. Many will also prepare a formal sketch or computer illustration of your finished kitchen to help you visualize the final look. While you do pay for this service in the price, many find it worth the investment to have a professional guiding the process.

Think Outside the Box

Perhaps it’s the most overused cliché, but in this case, I mean thinking outside the “box”—the cabinet itself. Consider the “face” of your cabinets. Remember, you’ll be seeing this “face” for many years, so it’s important to be fully satisfied with your choice. While bold colors may be trendy today, they may grow tiresome as fashion evolves.

One of the most popular trends in kitchen cabinets is “resurfacing.” This approach involves keeping the boxes in place but updating the exteriors by painting, staining, or veneering the surfaces and replacing the doors and drawer fronts. Since the doors and drawers largely determine the style (Country, Urban Chic, Mediterranean, etc.), swapping these out can give your kitchen a fresh look without the expense and disruption of a full replacement.

I’ve undertaken two kitchen cabinet resurfacing projects and was thrilled with the results. The first was a pre-war apartment in New York with old birch plywood cabinets. As I stripped away the layers of paint and varnish, I discovered premium, clear, matched veneers that had aged beautifully. I decided to showcase that rich wood tone by finishing the cabinets with clear varnish. To add a modern twist, I painted the boxes glossy black. The contrast was striking, yet the overall effect was warm and inviting.

The second project was a California rambler featuring some of the cheapest cabinets imaginable, stained a depressing dark brown. After addressing some structural issues, I sanded them down, painted them matte white (to hide fingerprints and scuffs), and replaced the pulls. I also swapped a few door fronts with clear glass panels and removed a wall between the kitchen and dining room. Glass-paneled doors at the back of the cabinets allowed natural light to flow between the rooms, transforming the space.

In both cases, I had more time than money, so doing the work myself was the most viable option. I did hire a professional to create the glass doors, refitting some of the old ones and recreating matching doors for the backs. It was money well spent, as these skills were beyond my own expertise! There are plenty of specialists, cabinet makers, and companies that can reface or resurface tired old cabinets, usually in just a few days. Keep in mind that kitchen renovations can be particularly stressful when the kitchen is out of commission. A professional crew can significantly reduce the downtime, which is a crucial consideration in any home improvement project.

When You’ve Decided to Replace

There’s much to recommend modern cabinetry. The quality, style, and functionality of today’s kitchen cabinets are far superior to those of years past. These new styles are designed with modern living in mind, offering thoughtful features for appliances, utensils, wine racks, and more. Once you’ve chosen the look, feel, and layout of your new cabinet suite, the next decision is whether to go with stock cabinets or enlist the help of a professional for a custom installation.

Although there are numerous stock cabinet options available, not all kitchens or spaces are standard-sized, which can lead to awkward “gaps” in your layout. A custom cabinet builder, however, can create cabinets tailored to any space.

One current trend in cabinetry is to blend stock and custom pieces to create a more affordable yet customized kitchen. For example, the cabinetmaker might build custom boxes for unusual spaces but use stock doors, which are far less expensive than custom doors. I’ve also seen stock glass-front doors retrofitted with stained glass or old, wavy glass—an excellent way to achieve a one-of-a-kind look.

Lastly, keep in mind that a professional will know how to measure, size, and install your cabinets to perfection. When comparing prices, remember to consider the quality of the work and how it aligns with your own skills. Over the years, I’ve learned the hard way where my skills end and where a professional is necessary. When it comes to kitchen cabinets, I’ll stick to sanding, staining, and painting!

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