Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle

The nitrogen cycle in an aquarium is a natural chain reaction that involves various types of nitrifying bacteria. Each type of bacteria has a specific job to perform. The cycle forms when each new bacterium consumes the previous bacteria and then gives birth to the next one in the chain.
There are three components involved in this process: ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The entire process generally takes about 30 days. However, there is no exact time frame for it to be completed, as each aquarium is slightly different. Factors that can affect the duration of your aquarium’s cycle include the number of fish, other livestock, and the organic matter present in the tank.

When cycling your aquarium, it is extremely important to test the water regularly. This will inform you of which phase the tank is in at any given time during the process.

Phase 1 – The Ammonia Phase

Ammonia is the first component needed for the chain. Ammonia readings should be present only during the cycling process. Once ammonia begins to accumulate in the tank, the cycle will begin. Ammonia can come from fish and other livestock waste, as well as excess food and decaying organic matter from plants and animals.
Cycling the tank using live animals can be somewhat tricky. On one hand, the fish will be exposed to high levels of ammonia and nitrate, which can be highly toxic. On the other hand, you need ammonia in order for the cycling process to begin. If you plan to use fish for cycling, choose hardy, durable fish that can withstand the toxic levels during the process. They should also be relatively inexpensive. Some good options include Damsels or Chromis. While these fish tend to be plain-looking and, in some cases, can be aggressive, the good news is that they are ideal for the cycling process. Once the cycling is complete, you can either give them to someone else who’s starting a new tank or trade them in at your local pet store for more elegant fish.

Alternatively, there are other options for starting the cycling process without using fish. These include:

Using hermit crabs, which are hardy and inexpensive.

Using live sand and/or live rock, which contain living parts of the reef that will produce the waste needed.

Regardless of the system you choose, the process remains the same. Ammonia occurs in two states, depending on the pH of the water. The unionized state (NH³) is more toxic than the ionized state, as it more easily invades the body tissue of marine animals. As the pH rises, the less toxic ionized state decreases, while the more toxic unionized state increases.

Phase 2 – The Nitrite Phase

Around ten days into the cycle, nitrifying bacteria will convert ammonia into nitrite, and Nitrosomonas bacteria will begin to form. Nitrite can be toxic and harmful to fish at lower levels, but without nitrite, the cycling process cannot be completed. Nitrite levels will continue to rise until about day 25, at which point they should begin to fall.

Phase 3 – The Nitrate Phase

Once the ammonia has been converted to nitrite, the next step in the cycle is for nitrite to be converted into nitrate by Nitrobacter bacteria. This process takes time, and during this stage, the toxicity of the water is less dangerous than in the previous two stages. However, it is still important to perform regular water changes.
By taking the time to understand the importance of the nitrogen cycle, you can keep your aquarium water free from the toxic compounds that could lead to the loss of your fish too soon.

The post The Importance of the Nitrogen Cycle appeared first on .

Types of Fish Food

Flake foods are widely available in pet stores and offer a simple way to feed your fish. Specialty flakes are available, some of which are particularly high in vegetable matter, such as Spirulina. This is rich in protein and provides essential amino acids, which are often hard to obtain otherwise. However, keep in mind that many commercially available dry fish foods are not well balanced. The vitamin content in these foods tends to degrade over time at room temperature, and they typically only remain fresh for about three months. Therefore, it is better to purchase fish food in small packets rather than large ones.

Freeze-dried foods, available in aquarium stores, differ from flake foods. This type of food usually contains a single animal ingredient per packet, such as bloodworms, mosquito larvae, or other similar options. Instead of flakes, freeze-dried foods come in chunk form. While freeze-dried foods do not constitute a complete diet on their own, they can complement a good basic flake food diet for your fish. These freeze-dried organisms can also be found in frozen or live forms, but the freeze-dried version provides a convenient way to feed your fish without the hassle of the other forms.

Another option is homemade fish food, which can be a cost-effective alternative. Surprisingly, making a batch large enough to last about six months is relatively easy, and the food can be frozen to make feeding less time-consuming. A food processor is needed, along with some basic ingredients, such as unflavored gelatin, vegetable matter, beef heart, and multi-vitamin tablets. Once mixed, the ingredients can be frozen in separate containers for easier feeding. Numerous recipes are available online to help you get started with making homemade fish food. While this might not be a primary food source, it can provide an interesting supplement to your fish’s regular diet.

When feeding fish, it is important to remember that they are cold-blooded, meaning they do not require a lot of energy to maintain their body temperature. Therefore, it is critical not to overfeed them. The general rule of thumb is to feed your fish only as much as they can eat in five minutes, twice a day. The only exception to this rule is when you keep territorial fish, such as cichlids. In these cases, the fish may monopolize the food, and you may need to feed them more than usual, so keep that in mind.

Knowing your fish’s specific dietary needs is crucial. For example, many fish benefit from a vegetable-based diet or may even require one. Fish such as Plecos, Mbuna cichlids, and silver dollars require a vegetable diet because they have long digestive tracts and can develop digestive issues if they do not receive enough roughage. While most fish can benefit from the addition of some vegetable matter in their diet, these species especially rely on it.

Commercial frozen foods are also widely available today, ranging from fish to aquatic insects. These foods are generally inexpensive and provide an excellent dietary supplement for all fish. Your local pet and aquarium store can be a great source for commercial frozen foods.

Understanding your fish’s dietary needs and providing them with a selection of well-balanced foods will help keep them happy and healthy for years to come.

The post Understanding Fish Food appeared first on .

Today, many different shape and height of tanks are available, so some thought will need to be given to this as well. Ideally, it is best not to purchase a tank that is deeper than your arm length or you could face difficult maintenance issues. Generally speaking, standard rectangle and bow-fronted aquariums are more suitable as these types of tanks provide the largest surface area in relation to their volume. As a result they provide maximum length for your fish to swim and exercise in. While tall column tanks can be visually interesting, they do make maintenance difficult. In addition, due to the small surface area, in the event of a power shortage, your fish can suffocate. Other options include cylindrical and spherical tanks; however, these types of tanks tend to distort the fish for viewing.

After you have determine the size and shape of tank you prefer, it is time to do some shopping around. While shopping, you will find there are three basic types of aquariums available. These are basic glass tanks, complete set-up tanks and systemized aquariums. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

A basic glass tank is an all-glass tank that is in a word-basic. When purchasing this type of tank you must keep in mind that you will need to purchase everything else needed to complete a fully functioning aquarium separate. This means purchasing the filtration, lighting, thermometer, hood, stand, test kits, heater and more separate. Purchasing these items separately can be more expensive than purchasing a complete set-up; however, it does allow you to purchase exactly what you want.

With a complete set up aquarium, the tank comes with a hood and some equipment and accessories. When purchased this way, you usually get a break on the individual prices. This can be a good option if you are unsure about what you will need when you first start out. Perhaps the only disadvantage is that because the items come together you will not be able to purchase exactly what you want, regardless of manufacturer. In addition, do not allow the term ‘complete set-up’ fool you. You may still need other items such as cleaning equipment, background paper and test kits; which must be purchased separately.

A systemized aquarium has the lighting and filtration already fitted into the tank by the manufacturer. This can take the hassle out of selecting and fitting the equipment; however, if you want to use different equipment or even if you want to upgrade in the future, the process is not that simple. Therefore, you should make sure that the system you choose is appropriate for the type of fish you want to keep when you purchase it. For example, some systemized aquariums are better suited for planted tanks and tropical fish.

Regardless of which type of aquarium you choose to purchase, it is important to position your tank where it will be easy to view as well as maintain. It should also be positioned in a location that is near an electric outlet. Try to avoid locations near natural sunlight as this can increase the water temperature as well as doors, which may be loud and distress your fish. Finally, avoid placing your tank near areas close to radiators and fireplaces as this can result in excess heat as well.

By giving proper thought and consideration to the type of tank that will best suit your needs and the needs of your fish for some time to come you can be sure you and your fish will enjoy your new aquarium for a long time.

The post Guide to Buying an Aquarium appeared first on .

South American Cichlids: A Popular Choice for Aquariums

South American cichlids are often referred to as New World cichlids. These fish are quite hardy and easier to care for compared to many other species. By adding these cichlids to your freshwater aquarium, you can introduce a brilliant splash of color. South American cichlids are typically categorized into Dwarf Cichlids, Larger Amazonian Cichlids, and Larger Neotropical Cichlids. Each category requires different levels of care and specific tank conditions, so it’s essential to understand the needs of your cichlids before bringing them home.

For example, soft-water Dwarf Cichlids are generally more passive than their larger counterparts, making them an excellent choice for a peaceful aquarium community. Larger Amazonian cichlids and Neotropical cichlids can adapt to a variety of water environments. However, these larger species tend to be more predatory and territorial, so they are best suited for semi-aggressive or aggressive tank environments. In some cases, provided you have a large enough tank, aggressive cichlids can co-exist with more peaceful species. Providing plenty of rocks and hiding spots for the peaceful cichlids can also help maintain harmony.

When it comes to personality, South American cichlids are fascinating and demonstrate intelligence that is more evolved than many other fish. With over 450 South American cichlid varieties, there is a wide selection to choose from to add both variety and color to your tank. Most South American cichlids are carnivores, although some also consume plant material. The largest South American cichlids can grow up to 60 centimeters, while the smallest may only reach 3 centimeters in length.

One of the most famous South American cichlids is the freshwater Angelfish. To properly care for Angelfish, it’s essential to monitor the pH level in your aquarium, ensuring it remains between 6.5 and 6.9. Oscar cichlids are also popular, originating from the acidic waters of South America. These fish are highly intelligent and often investigative in nature. As a result, they can become bored in barren environments, so it’s best to provide them with plenty of toys and a lively setup.

African Cichlids: A Diverse Group with Specific Needs

Many African cichlids come from the Lake Malawi region, but several others are found in different African rivers and lakes. While most of these regions have acidic waters, some areas have alkaline conditions, so it’s important to research the specific needs of your cichlid species before bringing them home.

The Nigeria Green cichlid is a popular African species found in the acidic waters of Cameroon and Nigeria. Males can grow up to 3.5 inches, while females are typically smaller. Both genders display brilliant, vivid colors, especially during the breeding season.

Other popular African cichlids include the Jewel Cichlid and the Red Cichlid. The Red Cichlid tends to be aggressive, so it should only be housed with sturdy species or in a larger tank environment (at least a 75-gallon tank).

Even the more aggressive cichlids can be maintained successfully with sufficient space. This allows them to express their more aggressive behaviors and grow properly. It’s also important not to overcrowd larger cichlids, like Oscars, as they grow rapidly. A 75-100 gallon tank is recommended for just two Oscars, allowing ample space for their growth.

By providing enough space, maintaining the appropriate pH levels, and monitoring the water temperature, you can ensure that your cichlids live long, healthy lives.

The post All about Cichlids appeared first on .

A saltwater aquarium will certainly allow you to have an interesting variety of colorful fish; however, if you are a novice to keeping an aquarium you may find a saltwater aquarium a bit daunting. The major advantage of a freshwater aquarium is that it allows you as a beginner to gain experience before taking on the responsibilities of a saltwater tank; which can be time consuming and expensive.

Freshwater aquariums tend to be easier to set up than saltwater aquariums and on average require less time and effort in terms of maintenance. When it comes to expense, freshwater aquariums are also less costly for both equipment as well as fish. Marine fish are required for saltwater aquariums and while they are more colorful than freshwater fish, they are also typically more expensive.

Additions for saltwater aquariums can also be expensive, such as live rock. Live rock provides a great biological filter for your saltwater tank and makes set up and maintenance of the saltwater tank easier, but it is expensive as it is taken from coral reefs.

Lighting is also an important issue. If you have live corals and rock in your saltwater tank, lighting will become even more important. Poor lighting can cause these live organisms in your saltwater tank to die. Of course, lighting is also important to a freshwater tank; however, maintaining the balance is not as delicate.

With a saltwater tank there is also the added responsibility of monitoring the salt levels; a task which is not necessary with a freshwater tank. This is a delicate process. If your salt levels are not properly monitored and maintained your fish, rocks and plants will not survive in a saltwater environment. The water quality must also be monitored carefully; but when compared this task is really not much different than monitoring and maintaining the water quality in a freshwater tank.

Ultimately, the final decision of whether a saltwater or a freshwater tank is best; will depend on how much time and money you want to invest in your aquarium. A freshwater tank can be quite fun, allowing you to keep a number of beautiful freshwater tropical fish while getting your feet wet in the process of maintaining an aquarium. You can avoid the disappointment that goes along with losing an expensive fish while you learn the basics of maintaining a tank when you choose a freshwater tank.

If; however, you feel you are up to the challenge and are not concerned with the expense, a saltwater aquarium can open up a new world through the introduction of vibrant, beautiful fish swimming along live corals and rocks.

In the event you do choose to start out with a freshwater tank in the beginning, keep in mind this does not preclude you from changing to a saltwater tank later on. In many cases, people begin in the hobby of keeping fish by setting up a freshwater aquarium due to the fact that it is easier. Once they have gained experience and confidence, they make the change to a saltwater tank. Many of the items that are used for a freshwater tank can also be incorporated into use in a saltwater aquarium. Along with a few additions, it can be simpler than you might think to complete the conversion from a freshwater to a saltwater tank.

For example, you may be able to use the tank itself; provided it is large enough. Most saltwater fish will require more space than freshwater fish; but even so your old freshwater tank may still work, with simply fewer saltwater fish. A 10 gallon freshwater tank, which can typically hold about 12 average sized fish, will do fine for up to about 3 average sized saltwater fish.

Whether you can use the filter from your freshwater tank may depend on the type of filter that was used. Under gravel filters and hang on the back filters are not typically recommended for saltwater tanks. A canister filter works better.

In most cases you should be able to use the same heater and thermometer, provided your thermometer is not stainless steel; which could rust in the saltwater. You will need a water pump to create movement in the tank if you do not already have one.

The post Freshwater Vs Saltwater Aquariums appeared first on .

Maintaining Healthy Live Plants in Your Aquarium

When planning to add live plants to your aquarium, it’s important to understand that live plants generally do not thrive in newly established aquariums. This is because nitrates—a substance plants use in the photosynthesis process—are typically low in newly set-up tanks.

To keep your live plants healthy, you’ll need to monitor them for any signs that they require nutrient additives. As your tank matures, the plants will gradually deplete the available nitrates. They will also need iron for healthy growth. By observing the color of your plants, you can tell whether they need additional nutrients. For example, if green plants begin turning yellow, they may be showing signs of iron deficiency. A good plant additive will contain phosphates, iron, nitrates, and other nutrients that will help your plants stay healthy and thrive.

Lighting is another essential element in the photosynthesis process and is necessary for both healthy fish and live plants. If you have a planted aquarium, it’s recommended to maintain a 10 to 12-hour light cycle. The strength of the lighting you need will depend largely on the size of your aquarium. However, a general guideline is to use two watts of lighting per gallon to ensure sufficient plant growth.

Water hardness and pH levels should also be monitored in an aquarium with live plants. Water hardness refers to the level of minerals in the water, with levels ranging from hard (high minerals) to soft (low minerals). You can use a simple test kit to measure water hardness. Most tropical plants thrive in water with a hardness level of 8 degrees or less.

The pH level indicates the potential of hydrogen in the water, ranging from acidic (low) to alkaline (high), or neutral. You’ll need to measure the pH level according to the specific types of plants in your aquarium. Generally, plants do well in water that is slightly below neutral to slightly above neutral. Test kits are available to help you monitor the pH levels of your water.

When it’s time to plant your live plants, there are several techniques to consider, depending on the species you’re using. Plants that require a substrate should be combined with coarse sand or fine gravel. Some plants will grow roots without a substrate, while others will even attach to rocks. Knowing the specific needs of the plant species you’re using is crucial.

Plants should be removed from their bunch, and each strand should be planted separately. Pull the leaves down to the section where they connect to the stem first. This will allow the stem to develop roots. After this, you can either plant the stems in the substrate for them to sprout, or allow them to float in the aquarium for a few days to encourage root growth.

For bare root plants, follow the same procedure as you would for outdoor plants. Make a hole in the substrate large enough to accommodate the roots. Gently place the roots in the hole, spreading them out, and cover them with just enough substrate to keep them from floating away. Be careful not to push the crown of the plant below the surface, as this could damage it. If you are using species that root on rocks, you can attach the plant base to the rock with a bit of fishing line. Once the plant roots are securely attached, carefully snip away the fishing line.

The post Understanding Live Plants and your Aquarium appeared first on .

• Reducing water evaporation
• Helping to maintain a consistent water temperature
• Reducing household pollutants
• Enhancing the color of your fish and the attractiveness of your aquarium
• Providing photosynthesis, which is necessary for live plants

While it’s not necessary to keep the light on for extended periods, it’s important to understand how much light your fish actually require.

Choosing the Right Lighting for Your Aquarium

There are two main types of lighting available for your aquarium: fluorescent tubes and incandescent bulbs. While incandescent bulbs are generally less expensive than fluorescent tubes, they tend to produce more heat and less natural light. As a result, incandescent bulbs are better suited for smaller tanks, typically 10 gallons or less.

For larger tanks, fluorescent lighting is a better choice because it provides more natural light with less heat. Additionally, fluorescent light fixtures tend to be more flexible, making it easier to select the right light for your aquarium.

If your aquarium has live plants, you should use a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb to best simulate the sunlight. If you need more intense lighting to support plant growth, you can increase the wattage. For example, heavy plant growth can be achieved by using at least 60 watts of lighting for every 12 inches of tank length. While fluorescent lights can be more expensive to purchase initially, they are cheaper to operate in the long run.

When selecting lighting for your tank, consider what is inside it. For instance, reef tanks require more lighting than tanks that contain only fish. Planted freshwater tanks also need more lighting, and live rock tanks, which contain photosynthetic animals, should be treated similarly to reef tanks and thus require more lighting. For reef tanks, it’s best to choose high-intensity aquarium lighting, such as compact fluorescent lighting, VHO lighting, or metal halide lighting.

Here’s a breakdown of different types of aquarium lighting:

Compact Fluorescent Lighting: Provides bright, efficient, and cool light with a low operating cost, producing less heat than many other intense light sources.

VHO Fluorescent Lighting: Offers super bright and long-lasting light, making it ideal for reef aquariums.

Metal Halide Lighting: Known for providing high heat with a wide spectrum range, this lighting is suited for reefs and freshwater aquariums deeper than 24 inches. In some cases, a chiller may be necessary to counteract the intense heat produced, especially if the room temperature can’t be balanced to offset it.

The size and depth of your tank also play a role in choosing the appropriate lighting. Typically, 1.5 to 6 watts of lighting per gallon is recommended. For deeper tanks, additional lighting may be necessary since light doesn’t penetrate water very well. Metal halide lighting is a great option for tanks deeper than 20 inches, as it provides more concentrated light.

Fish-Only Aquariums: These tanks will do well with a standard fluorescent lighting system, providing between 1 to 2 watts per gallon.

Freshwater Planted Aquariums: Aquariums with both live plants and fish will thrive with a standard fluorescent lighting system, providing between 2 to 5 watts per gallon.

Saltwater Reef Aquariums: These tanks, which house invertebrates, corals, and fish, will require a more advanced lighting system, such as power compact, VHO, or metal halide lighting. Plan for between 4 to 8 watts per gallon for aquariums that are 24 inches deep or less. If you only house corals or invertebrates that require lower light levels, you can relax these wattage requirements somewhat.

The post Tips for Lighting an Aquarium appeared first on .

In terms of longevity, goldfish can live as long as 25 years, with some even growing as long as two feet. While goldfish are often thought of as inexpensive, collectors are willing to pay up to $1,000 or more for a prized specimen from the goldfish family.

There are more than 125 varieties of goldfish, ranging from the common pet shop goldfish to the fancier species. Some goldfish, particularly the bulging-eyed varieties, may appear deformed; however, they are highly prized by goldfish enthusiasts and breeders.

Common vs. Fancy Goldfish

The comet is the most common type of goldfish. This variety is known for its pointy tail. The shubunkin, which is blue and speckled, is perhaps the most widely known of the straight-tailed varieties. Both of these types are fairly robust and easy to maintain. Additionally, both will grow quite large when provided with adequate space and care.

Fancy goldfish, most of which have round bodies and long flowing fins, tend to reach smaller adult sizes. They are also generally less robust and more sensitive. Fancy varieties are more prone to illness, particularly bacterial infections. This can be avoided by maintaining good water quality, but it requires additional vigilance and maintenance.

While common goldfish and fancy goldfish can be kept together, it’s best to keep them separately. Straight-tailed varieties tend to be faster swimmers and more boisterous, while the fancy varieties are not as good swimmers. As a result, the fancy varieties may be bullied by the straight-tailed ones.

It is advisable to purchase your goldfish from a store with knowledgeable staff, rather than from department stores where the staff likely have little knowledge of the fish they sell. Avoid fish with dorsal fins that are not erect, as this can be a sign of illness. Fish that struggle to reach the bottom of the tank should also be avoided, as should those that appear significantly smaller than others of the same age.

If you are buying fancy goldfish with bulging or bubble eyes, avoid those with eyes that are either too small or too large. Small bubbles may not grow sufficiently, while overly large ones may grow to a size that makes swimming difficult later on.

Make sure to examine all the fish in the tank and be cautious about purchasing any that are in the same tank as a fish that appears sick. If one fish seems sickly, the others may be as well.

It’s important to keep in mind that while goldfish are hardy, even the common varieties require good care to ensure their survival. This includes providing them with an adequately sized tank. Goldfish are often associated with bowls, but in reality, they should have enough space to grow. Depending on the variety, goldfish can grow from six to fourteen inches and can live, on average, from seven to ten years.

To provide an adequate home for two goldfish, your tank should be at least 20 gallons. While this may seem large, goldfish grow quickly and will fill the space. The water should be dechlorinated, and a good filtration system should be in place. If the water temperature stays between 65 and 75 degrees, you won’t need a heater. Additionally, you don’t need gravel at the bottom of the tank, but if you use it, be sure to siphon it regularly to remove fish waste and excess food.

Finally, avoid overfeeding your goldfish. Remember the rule: never feed more than your fish can eat in five minutes, twice a day. This will help keep your fish healthy and the water cleaner.

The post Guide to Buying Goldfish appeared first on .