This is an important choice as it is one of the items that you will have to buy on a regular basis. You will need to consider several factors when making a decision including price, effectiveness, how long the litter lasts, whether it tends to track or stay in the box and if your cat seems drawn to it.

Keeping those points in mind, below is a brief description of some types of cat litter, along with some pros and cons of each.

Clumping

This is one of the most common types of litter, and there are many companies that manufacture clumping litter.

Pros

• Clumping litter is readily available and can be purchased at any pet supply store as well as at most grocery stores.
• While not the least expensive option, there are brands of clumping cat litter that are very affordable.
• Unlike some other types of litter, you do not need to change the entire pan of litter every time you clean the box. Instead, you simply scoop out the waste and add a bit more litter to the box. You should, however, completely swap out the litter according to the frequency specified on the package.
• Most cats are willing to use this type of litter.

Cons

• Clumping litter is more expensive than clay cat litter.
• Some pet owners find that it tracks through the house.
• Some pet owners do not like the idea of not changing out the entire pan of litter each time they clean the box.

Clay/Non-Clumping

Pros

• This is the least expensive type of cat litter.
• It is available at most grocery stores and all pet supply stores will carry this type of litter as well.
• Some find clean up to be fairly easy as you simply dump the entire contents of the litter box into the trash, clean the box and replace with fresh litter.
• Most cats are willing to use this type of litter.

Cons

• Due to its fine texture, this type of litter tends to track throughout the house.
• Because you need to replace the entire contents of the litter box each time you clean it, most pet owners find that they need to keep a fairly large supply of clay cat litter on hand. This can be problematic for someone who may not be able to carry a 40 or 50 pound bag of litter.
• Some find that this type of litter is not as odor absorbent as other types of cat litter.

Reusable

Reusable litter is made up of small balls or pellets. They are placed in a special box where the litter is rinsed after each use.

Pros

• It provides a very sanitary type of litter box.
• Because it is self-cleaning, there is no scooping or changing litter necessary.

Cons

• The litter box for use with this litter is quite expensive. Most models cost between $250 and $300.
• Some cats do not like the texture of reusable litter, so they will refuse to use the box.
• Box needs to be placed in a location where it can be hooked up to a water line.

Pearls

Pearls are small round pellets that absorb moisture and odor.

Pros

• Pearls are very effective at odor control.
• If used and maintained properly, this type of litter is quite long lasting.
• There is no tracking of litter throughout the house.

Cons

• This is among the more expensive types of cat litter.
• Some cats will not be willing to use this kind of litter because the texture does not feel at all like the sand or dirt that they would use in nature.

Environmentally Friendly Litter

There are several forms of litter that are environmentally friendly. These include litter made from recycled paper, wheat, corn and wood.

Pros

• The texture of some of these litter options is similar to that of clay and clumping litter. That means that even picky cats will use them.
• For those who care deeply about the environment, the benefit is obvious.
• Most are very effective at absorbing odors and wetness.

Cons

• This type of litter tends to be a bit more expensive than some other options.
• Depending on the type that you choose, it may be hard to find. Not all pet supply stores will carry this kind of litter, so you may have to order your supply online.

It is best to stick to one type, rather than switching back and forth between different types of litter. The main reason is that your cat will get used to using a particular kind of litter. If you suddenly switch litters, it may cause him to stop using his box, at least for a while.

If you do want to switch the kind of litter that you use, it is best to do so gradually. Simply add a small amount of the new litter in with the old. After a day, add a little more of the new litter, while decreasing the amount of the old litter. Continue with this gradual transition until you are using only the new litter.

Be prepared for the possibility that the cat will reject the new litter outright, even if you introduce it gradually. This is particularly true if the litter is of a texture that is different from what the cat is used to using.

You can try to introduce the new litter, but if the cat does not want to use it, you may have to switch back.

If you have more than one cat, you should use the same type of litter for both cats, even if they have separate boxes. You do not want to do anything that may confuse the cats when it comes to their litter box.

Doing so many mean the cats will use the bathroom outside of the box, and that isn’t fun for anyone!

With so many types of cat litter available, it may seem like choosing one could be difficult. There is no one “right” cat litter. Just use the one that works best for you and for your cat.

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While some cat owners have resigned themselves to the belief that such destruction of property is just part of cat ownership, others have sought ways to put an end to the damage.

Replacing a piece of furniture is not cheap, but it’s far easier than replacing a room full of carpet. However, there is something about carpet that many cats find simply irresistible. As they saunter from room to room, each step reminds them that, right below their feet, is an endless supply of scratching delight.

It must be terribly hard to resist because most cats don’t even bother trying. Instead, they pick a spot or two and let the destruction begin. Some cat owners focus on trying to get their cats to stop scratching completely, but that’s never going to happen. Scratching is natural and necessary for cats, so trying to stop the behavior altogether is a waste of time.

Instead, try to encourage your cat to scratch in appropriate locations, such as on their scratching post.

There are four main reasons why cats scratch

1. Keep Claws Sharp
It’s important for a cat to keep their claws sharp and healthy. This is one of the main functions of scratching.

2. Mark Territory
Cats’ feet have scent glands that, thankfully, humans cannot smell. These scent glands are left behind wherever a cat scratches, letting other cats know who has been there.

This explains why cats will nap in their favorite spot on the sofa and, before hopping down, give the spot a good scratch. The cat is simply letting everyone know, “Hey, this is my spot.”

3. Release Energy
Scratching is a form of mild exercise for cats. It helps them relax and burns off excess energy.

4. It’s Fun
Scratching just feels good to cats. If you don’t believe it, just notice that when your cat scratches, they’re often purring at the same time.

Now that you know why cats scratch, it should be clear why trying to “train” them to stop scratching is not a good idea. Instead, provide them with a place to scratch that is acceptable to both you and your cat. Doing this will help keep your cat from scratching the carpet.

The Perfect Scratching Post

For most cats, not just any scratching post will do. There are several factors to consider when shopping for the perfect scratching post.

1. Texture
While your cat might enjoy scratching your carpet, it is actually not the best material for scratching. As mentioned earlier, one reason cats need to scratch is to keep their claws sharp. That’s why a rough surface, such as sisal or cardboard, is ideal. This isn’t to say that carpet-covered scratching posts should be completely avoided, as many cats love that texture. Just be sure to also provide a rougher surface as well.

2. Size
The size of the scratching post depends on many factors, including how much available space you have in your home. Just keep in mind that your cat should be able to fully extend their body while scratching. As long as the post is long or tall enough to accommodate a full-body stretch, it will work.

3. Stability
What do you think would happen if, the first time your cat tried to use the scratching post, it fell over and scared the daylights out of them? Of course, the answer is that your cat would never go within ten feet of that scratching post again. That’s why it’s important to make sure the scratching post is very stable before introducing your cat to it.

Another thing to consider is that it’s a good idea to have scratching posts in every room where your cat spends a lot of time. It’s fine to have one where they sleep, but if your cat naps in the living room, the carpet will look just as appealing as the scratching post. By keeping one in every room, you increase the chances that they will use the post and leave the carpet and furniture alone.

What About Having My Cat Declawed?
Declawing is as acceptable an idea as cutting off your fingers at the second knuckle. Don’t do it. Some people think that declawing a cat is similar to trimming a person’s nails. This is not the case. Claws are not just “tails”; they are an important part of a cat’s anatomy. A declawed cat will have issues with balance and mobility. Additionally, many declawed cats suffer from behavioral and emotional problems.

Declawing is cruel and unnecessary. It should be completely removed as an option.

Getting your cat to stop scratching the carpet will take some time and patience. But once your cat adjusts to using scratching posts to satisfy their scratching urges, your carpet and furniture will be safe, and your cat will have a perfect spot to scratch to their heart’s content.

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Anyone who has successfully housebroken a dog knows the great difficulties—and the morbid lengths—often involved in the potty training process. Anyone who has ever successfully potty-trained a child is all too familiar with the inevitable accidents and the sheer joy when they mysteriously stop once and for all. Compared to those kinds of housebreaking duties, potty training a kitten is so remarkably simple, it’s almost laughable.

In all seriousness, there are many kittens who are potty trained the instant they are introduced to their appropriate toileting area. Bam. Just like that. Not a single accident inside the house, and your world becomes easy living and odor-free—as long as you stay on top of cleaning the litter box.

Because of these naturally intuitive kittens, cats have developed a reputation for being so simple to housebreak that you barely need to call it “housebreaking.” But, of course, your little fluffball didn’t get the memo before he left his littermates. And for the third morning in a row since his welcome into your home, you wake up to the smell of cat pee—without the slightest clue where the accident took place.

Believe it or not, despite all the fantastic rumors about how easy it is to potty train a kitten, most little bundles of fur require more than just a little help. In fact, they may need “stages” of help more than once in their lives. During the cute and cuddly kitten stage (8 to 21 weeks), you should introduce your new kitten to the litter box almost immediately upon entering the home. He’ll be a cacophony of human emotions: scared, silly, excited, nervous, fatigued, and probably even a little hungry. A stressed-out animal burns a lot of fuel, especially when they’re small.

After introducing him to the home and the litter box, consider offering him a small snack—unless it’s close to dinner time, in which case, go ahead and feed him.

After his snack—assuming he knows the script and decides to eat—show him the litter box again. Encourage him to stay in there for a few moments, long enough for it to be an opportunity but not a punishment. If you’re lucky enough to witness a dribble or spatter, reward him lavishly and praise him like he just won the Powerball.

If he doesn’t follow the plan and decides instead to explore, let him roam for five or ten minutes—then bring him back to the litter box.

When the Litter Box Isn’t Love at First Sight

For some cats, that’s all it takes. From that moment forward, they will dutifully use the litter box, and you can breathe a huge sigh of potty relief.

But of course, this isn’t your cat.

Your cat is the one who steps out of the litter box, walks halfway across the room, and then decides that’s the perfect spot to pee. You will probably gaze at him in confusion—momentarily forgetting that you’re supposed to scoop him up with a sharp hiss, plop him back into the litter box, and follow up with gooey-sweet words of encouragement.

You and your feline, Kato, might need to repeat this process several times during his first few hours in your home. By the eighth attempt, your expression will have shifted from confusion to disbelief to sheer frustration. You may even start to believe you brought home a defective kitty.

And the following two days won’t help. He insists on going everywhere except the litter box. So, you adapt.

Even with your big human hands helping, some kittens are intimidated by the overwhelming size of the litter box—it is, after all, sized for an adult cat. Try placing a cardboard wall halfway back to create a smaller “pee space.” Trim down the edges so your tiny bundle of urinary drama can step in and out without climbing his own personal Mount Everest just to pee. If it were that much work for us, we’d probably only hit the toilet on good days, too.

As your kitten grows, he’ll need a more substantial litter box. But for the first few months, smaller really is better.

Many first-time cat owners are under the impression that kittens (and cats) don’t respond to praise or the word “no.” While they may not be as eager to please as dogs, cats do respond to rewards and owner-driven correction. Sometimes, a sharp hiss is all it takes. But just like with dogs, timing is everything. You must catch your kitten in the act—otherwise, it’s too late. Even a moment after the incident is considered ineffective.

If you hiss or correct your kitten too late, he’ll just assume you randomly go around hissing at people—which, as far as he’s concerned, is a pretty unattractive and unpredictable trait.

Whatever you do to help improve your kitten’s bathroom behavior, never smack, hit, or physically punish him. He doesn’t understand violence—and, let’s be honest—you’re smarter than your fists.

Most kittens figure it out within a week or two. However, around the time they reach sexual maturity, they may forget what they previously learned and require a refresher course. In many ways, sexually mature kittens are like teenage boys: full of attitude, in need of reminders, and not quite as housebroken as you’d hope. A quick castration visit to the vet not only prevents unwanted kittens from contributing to the overpopulation problem—it also helps mellow out their mood.

Afterward, cats usually return to the sweet, social, well-behaved kitties we were just starting to get used to.

Last but certainly not least, when potty training a kitten, you, the human, must stay in control and remain consistent. Frustration is the biggest threat to consistency. If you’re serious about teaching your new companion where the bathroom is, you’ll need to keep emotions in check and stay focused.

Once you and your kitten reach litter box enlightenment, you’ll join the ranks of proud pet parents who brag about how their cat was housebroken in an hour—with just one glorious trip to the litter box under your fabulously patient supervision.

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Why Cats Use a Litter Box

The main reason litter box training a cat is easier is that using a box mimics how cats eliminate in the wild. In the wild, most types of cats are vulnerable to predators. To hide from potential threats, they cover up the scent of their urine, which could reveal their location. Cats do this by using their claws to cover their urine with sand or dirt.

When litter box training a cat, often all it takes is for the cat to step into the box once to realize that it’s the ideal place to relieve itself, as it allows the cat to easily cover its scent with the “sand.” Cats are creatures of habit, so once a cat is trained, it will typically continue using the litter box unless there is a medical condition or another extenuating circumstance.

Training Tips

Generally, not much formal training is required when litter box training a cat. However, since each cat is different, some may catch on immediately, while others may take a bit more effort. Here are some tips to help with training:

• Ensure the box is the right size. This is especially important if you are litter box training a larger cat. If the cat doesn’t fit comfortably in the box, it may be less inclined to use it.
• The box’s location matters. It should not be placed in a high-traffic area. Not only will this help with your own comfort, but the cat will also be more likely to use the box if it’s tucked into a quiet, less-traveled area of the home.
• Eliminate potential bathroom competition. When litter box training a cat, remove any other appealing bathroom options, particularly household plants. If your cat continues to prefer the soil in the plant pots over the litter box, you might need to permanently relocate the plants out of the cat’s reach.
• If you catch your cat in the act of using the bathroom outside the litter box, gently pick it up and place it in the box. Also, move any waste into the box as well.

How Long Should it Take?

As mentioned, litter box training a cat is usually straightforward. However, if the training lasts for more than a month without success, you may want to consult a vet to rule out any medical reasons why the cat isn’t using the box. Once medical issues are ruled out, you might consider seeking the help of a professional animal trainer.

What if My Cat Refuses to Use a Litter Box?

If your cat refuses to use the litter box and you aren’t ready to visit a vet or animal trainer, there are a few things you can try:

Switch the type of litter. Cats can be quite finicky and may prefer one type of litter over another. If your cat is not using the box, a change in litter may help.
Move the litter box to a different location. Some cats may dislike the placement of the box, so experiment with different spots to see if that encourages them to use it.
Confining your cat to a smaller area for a while may help, as cats tend not to eliminate in the areas where they eat or sleep. Once the cat is let out, make sure its first stop is the litter box.
You shouldn’t need to confine your cat for too long—one or two weeks should suffice.

Accidents

While litter box training a cat is usually easy, some cats may have accidents as they learn. Unfortunately, cat urine has a strong odor. Don’t use typical household cleaners to remove the smell, as even if you can no longer smell it, the cat will. If the cat can still detect the scent, it may continue using that spot.

To effectively remove the scent, you’ll need to use a cleaner specifically designed for cat urine. These products are available at most pet supply stores and are typically inexpensive.

Types of Boxes

When litter box training a cat, the type of box you choose is an important consideration. There are open litter boxes, domed boxes, and even automatic boxes that scoop waste into a receptacle.

Open litter boxes are simple but require you to see—and possibly smell—what’s inside.

Domed boxes often have a filter to reduce odors. While they don’t eliminate all the smells, they do help, and they also provide privacy for the cat.

Automatic boxes, which scoop waste after the cat leaves, are more expensive—ranging from $99 to $249, with some costing even more. Keep in mind that some cats may be deterred by the sound and movement of the box. If a cat gets spooked by it once, it may refuse to use the box again.

Switching Types of Litter

Once you’ve successfully litter box trained your cat, you may want to switch to a different type of litter for various reasons. To avoid restarting the training process, make the transition gradually. Begin by adding a small amount of the new litter to the old, and slowly decrease the amount of the old litter while increasing the new, until the new litter is used exclusively.

Be aware that some cats may reject certain types of litter, so you may need to switch back if that happens.

Litter box training a cat is not as difficult as it may seem. While some cats may require a bit more patience than others, the rewards of having a well-trained cat are worth the effort.

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Cats need to scratch. It’s not something they do just to annoy you, wake you from a beautiful sleep, or torment you with their claws two hours later. They aren’t selfishly trying to test your last bit of restraint, nor are they concerned with the fact that their habit ruins your furniture. Cats need to scratch for the health of their claws. Stopping a cat from scratching is like stopping a train wreck with your bare hands. Unless you’re harboring a superpower, it’s not going to happen. The best you can hope for is teaching them the appropriate place to scratch.

How to Redirect Your Cat’s Scratching Habits

Your basic goal is to ask your cat to take his scratching habits to a more appropriate location. This means you want to dissuade him from scratching in areas that cause damage, such as the edge of the bed, the sofa, the walls, and any other inconvenient places that tear through your nerves. Then, encourage him to scratch in places that are acceptable and won’t cause any damage, like a scratching post. Unfortunately, you’re asking him to give up numerous areas that please him in favor of one or two areas that please you. Sometimes, the transition can be a bit rocky.

When choosing a scratching post (or two), try to select something that vaguely resembles one of his favorite scratching spots. Color is inconsequential, but the size and height of the post can make a difference when it comes to his willingness to make the transition.

Scratching posts now come in a variety of configurations. You can find everything from a simple scratching post to an entire scratching haven complete with hideaway peep holes, sleeping areas, and various toys. Some cats are intimidated by huge play structures with scratching posts and peek-a-boo features, while others find them to be the ultimate playground. Knowing which direction your feline warrior is likely to swing depends on understanding his personality—and, of course, a little bit of luck.

If you have a cat who insists on playing among your blankets when you’re just trying to make the bed, or who loves to hide in the most ironic and downright silly places, chances are he’ll adore his own little kingdom. However, if your cat lacks enthusiasm for play (a classic case of “Garfield Syndrome”), he’s probably not going to be interested in a play castle for cats.

Some cats just prefer a regular piece of wood with no frills. A friend of mine went through three types of scratching posts before his cat settled on a spare 2 x 4 left over from remodeling his kitchen. Sometimes, a cat will simply let you know what he needs, and all you have to do is pay attention.

In all fairness, you can’t ask a cat not to scratch unless you offer an alternative. If you’re bringing home a new kitten, a scratching area should be on the list of necessities, right next to the litter box and food. If you already have a cat (which likely means you already have a scratching problem), the sooner you bring home a scratching post, the better. The longer you allow the behavior, the harder it will be to break it.

Some cats are surprisingly easy to train. Simply showing them their new scratching area is enough. Other cats, however, may treat the post like some alien testing device, running away in terror as if it tracks their every thought. As of yet, there is no book on the psychology of cats that fully explains such erratic behaviors. Either way, let’s assume for argument’s sake that your cat refused to socialize for three days after you introduced his new scratching palace.

Choosing the Right Scratching Post

Cats tend to prefer rougher surfaces to graze their nails against. They like to stretch their long bodies to their fullest to get a good, satisfying scratch, and they prefer to do this against a secure environment. So, bringing home something small, soft, and easily knocked over by a sneeze is not likely to be a hit. Make sure the scratching post is solid and functional, and he might be a bit more interested.

Don’t pretend you know how to be a cat. Crouching on the floor and showing your cat the basics of scratching isn’t likely to train him to do anything but think you’re odd (at least, more odd than usual for the moment). By now, you’ve probably noticed where his favorite scratching spots are. Leave the scratching post there, at least for now, so he sees it as a better option. Hiding it in the back corner of the basement won’t draw him to it.

Punishing him won’t make sense to your cat. Sometimes, you can deter a cat from scratching in a particular area by using noise. A quick loud sound that he can’t associate with you is often enough to discourage him. In his mind, the sofa made that horrible noise when he tried to scratch it.

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Training Your Cat: Methods That Work

Many experts agree that keeping all of your furniture and tabletops completely kitty-free might be unrealistic. You may be able to train your cat to stay off some furniture, but unless your cat is an exceptional learner, expecting them to stay off every piece may be too much. It’s within a cat’s “natural need element” to find ways to elevate itself—it’s part of their primal instincts, which they still carry from the wild. After all, height implies safety to a cat.

That said, your level of patience and persistence will play a big role in your success. If you become easily frustrated, then you might as well not try. If you’re inconsistent, again, stop while you’re ahead. Cats have an innate ability to pick up on small inconsistencies and use them to their advantage.

If you’re going to train your cat to stay off the furniture, you should start immediately. Allowing them on the furniture when they are young only to change your mind when they become a full-grown cat will cause serious problems. It can still be done, but it works best if you start right away.

Hitting and smacking are not the way to go. The only thing you’re teaching them is that every now and then, you’re prone to violence in their direction. Most cats cannot make the connection between a swat and being on the couch. Hitting an animal is simply cruel. They do not understand the reason for the infliction and will only learn that their trust in you is misplaced.

There are a few training kits on the market, each advertised with “every training accessory needed to keep your cat off the furniture.” While you may be able to accomplish your goal with one of these kits, the general reviews are rather mixed. Some people swear by them, while others found them a waste of money. This tells us one of two things: either the people who gave them a thumbs up used them correctly, and those who gave negative reviews didn’t, or some cats will respond to these kits better than others. If you’re considering one of these kits, research it well, know what you’re getting, and make sure you understand and follow the directions to a tee.

Other methods can also be employed to keep a cat off the furniture. Cats dislike sudden sounds or sensations. Using something sharp and quick, like a loud hiss or a squirt from a water bottle, can help convey the message that their behavior results in a negative reaction. However, you’ll need to be nearly instantaneous with your response. As soon as the cat’s paws touch the furniture, you need to be ready to correct the behavior. If you walk into the room and find the cat sleeping on the sofa, the cat will associate the action (sleeping) with the sudden displeasure over the environment (the couch). Instant action is the best reprimand.

If you do encounter your precious feline happily dozing in places they don’t belong, immediately remove them from the furniture and say “down” in a voice that leaves no doubt you mean business. While this isn’t as effective as instant action, it can help when combined with swift corrections.

Of course, when you’re not at home, your little one will likely feel as though they can get away with anything. This presents a problem during training when you need to rely heavily on consistent actions and reactions.

Start by rolling wads of tin foil into large balls and covering the furniture you are training with them. In many cases, 4 to 6 weeks of leaving this deterrent around in your absence should be enough to discourage your adventurous one from climbing up on the furniture. You’ll be able to tell whether it’s working by the position of the wads. Give it several days before deciding if it’s not working. Your cat may try, only to jump down right away. If after a few days the wads have obviously been moved or even played with daily, move on to balloons. Fill the balloons with air, ready to pop, and lay them out on the furniture in the same way as the tin foil wads.

Stick with it, and you are likely to be successful. Keeping a cat off the furniture is a continuous process that will rely on your ability to let your own stubbornness outweigh theirs.

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Understanding Your Cat’s Preferences

Keep in mind that your best intentions won’t mean much if your cat refuses to use the earth-friendly litter. Some cats are simply pickier than others regarding what type of litter they will accept.

Some will only use traditional clay litter, while others don’t care what type of litter is in their box; as long as it’s there, they will use it. The only way to know if your cat will accept one of the types of litter that is good for the earth is to try it.

Making the Change
When transitioning from another type of litter to environmentally friendly cat litter, it’s important to do so gradually. A sudden change can make it less likely that your cat will respond positively.

Start by mixing a small amount of the new litter with the old. Over the next several days, gradually increase the amount of new litter while decreasing the old.

Another option is to leave your cat’s current litter box filled with the old litter. Place a new box next to it with the new litter, adding just a bit of the old litter so your cat understands what this new box is for. If your cat uses the new box without issue, you can remove the old box and type of litter.

Types of Environmentally Friendly Cat Litter

Recycled Paper
One type of litter that environmentally conscious pet owners may choose is made from recycled newspaper or other types of recycled paper. The paper is shredded into material that resembles traditional litter and works similarly to clay litter.

Litter Made from Wood
Environmentally friendly cat litter made from wood comes in various forms. Some brands feature wood pressed into pellets, while others use wood shavings. Still others are ground to resemble traditional litter.

While all are fairly effective at controlling odors and absorbing moisture, some cats may be less likely to use the pellets or shavings. They may prefer litter made from wood that closely resembles the texture of traditional cat litter.

Grass Boxes
This litter alternative is relatively new. Instead of traditional litter, it offers an environmentally friendly option: a box of actual grass. The makers claim it’s like bringing the outdoors in. You simply pick up solid waste, while urine can be rinsed away manually or automatically, depending on the type of box.

You can choose real grass or synthetic grass, which can be easily replaced when necessary. While marketed primarily to dog owners, some cat owners are using these grass boxes as well.

Reusable Litter
Reusable litter is an economical choice, but there are some important considerations. Typically, it comes in the form of small balls or pellets placed in a special litter box connected to a water line. When the cat uses the box, it rinses the pellets and cleans the box, leaving it fresh for the next use.

Although this option is low maintenance, the box itself can be quite expensive, with a price tag of $250 to $300. Additionally, it can only be used where there is a water line, limiting where you can keep your cat’s setup.

Some cats may also dislike the texture of the litter and refuse to use the box. Before investing in this type of box and litter, consider how picky your cat is about his litter. Try using an inexpensive pellet or ball type litter first. If he responds well, he may be a good candidate for reusable litter.

Litter Made from Wheat
One company produces cat litter from wheat. This option absorbs odors, and because its texture closely resembles traditional litter, many cats that shy away from other alternatives may be willing to use it.

Litter Made from Corn
Similarly, corn is ground down until its texture resembles clay or clumping cat litter. This can also be a good choice for cats that are a bit particular.

As you can see, if using environmentally friendly cat litter is important to you, there are plenty of options. It might take some trial and error before you find a litter that is both earth-friendly and works well for you and your pet.

While some types of litter mentioned above are available at most pet supply stores, others may need to be ordered online. It’s wise not to stock up on any new litter until you’ve tested it to ensure its effectiveness and that your cat will use it.

Some options may cost a bit more than traditional clay and clumping litter, but many are willing to pay a little extra for the peace of mind that comes with knowing their choice is not harming the environment.

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Training a cat to use a litter box is usually straightforward. Cats naturally gravitate toward dirt or sand for bathroom needs, so Mother Nature aids the process. Many owners report that placing their kitten or cat in the litter box a few times is enough. However, some cats need extra guidance to learn the right spot.

Cats are finicky. If the litter box setup isn’t to their liking, they’ll find a more appealing place to go. To ensure success, create a litter box environment that suits your cat’s preferences.

Most cats adapt quickly after being shown the box once or twice. If your cat resists, consider these potential issues:

Aversion to the Box
Litter boxes come in various styles—basic, covered, or self-cleaning models. If your cat avoids the box, the type might be the issue. For instance, an uncovered box may lack privacy, while a self-cleaning model’s noise could startle them. Experiment with different boxes to find one your cat prefers.

Aversion to Litter Type
Litter options abound: crystals, shavings, sand, clumping, non-clumping, even shredded newspaper. Your preference for cost or ease of cleaning might not align with your cat’s. If they’re not using the box, try different litters to discover their favorite.

Preference for Another Location
Some cats crave privacy, dislike noise, or prefer a spot near their food bowl. If your cat consistently chooses a specific corner, relocate the litter box there to match their preference.

Addressing Litter Box Avoidance

If these adjustments don’t work, consult a veterinarian or animal behaviorist for tailored advice.

Sometimes, a cat that reliably used the litter box for years suddenly stops. This isn’t random—there’s always a cause. Contrary to myths, cats don’t refuse the box out of spite or to demand treats. Punishing them won’t help and may worsen the issue by causing anxiety.

Here are possible reasons for this behavior:

Medical Issues
A sudden refusal to use the litter box often signals a health problem, like a urinary tract infection, which makes urination painful, associating the box with discomfort. Cats may not show obvious signs of illness until issues are advanced, so promptly consult a vet to rule out medical causes.

Lingering Odors
If a cat or another pet has soiled the floor, lingering smells can attract repeat accidents, even after cleaning. Use specialized cleaners designed to eliminate urine and feces odors, as household cleaners won’t suffice. Cats’ keen sense of smell detects traces you might miss.

Dirty Litter Box
Cats are fastidious and avoid filthy bathrooms, just like humans. Scoop waste daily and thoroughly clean the box weekly to keep it inviting.

Most cats are easy to train, but if yours needs extra effort, remember they’re worth it. With patience and the right setup, your cat will master the litter box in no time.

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Most of the time, cats are going to start exploring their new space. One thing that they will be searching for is the most suitable bathroom. If the litter box is not yet in the house, he may choose a plant or some other space instead. It is easier to teach a cat to use the litter box than it is to teach them to STOP using some other spot.

There are a few things to keep in mind when looking for this most important piece of cat gear.

Space

The amount of space that you plan to dedicate the cat and his gear will have an impact on the decision that you make when making a selection. For example, if you only have a tiny space for the cat, you will not want to purchase a huge electric litter box.

Litter boxes are available in a variety of sizes. Keep your space in mind when choosing one.

Number of Cats

The number of cats that you have or plan to have must also be considered when buying a litter box. A good rule of thumb is no more than two cats per box. Of course, it is ideal to have one box per cat, but this is not always possible due to space constraints.

If you have more than one cat, you will need to go with a larger size. If you purchase the smallest litter box for more than one cat, it might get dirty faster than you can clean it, causing the cats to look for other places to do their business.

Size of Cat(s)

The size of the cat or cats is yet another consideration when choosing a box. If you have a tiny kitten, you will need to purchase a litter box that he can climb into easily. The average size box will have sides that may be too tall for him to scale. Therefore, you will have buy a small box for the kitten and replace it as he grows.

On the other hand, if you have a particularly large cat, you will need to buy a box that the cat fits into comfortably. If the cat feels too crowded, he may look for an alternate location.

There are several types of litter boxes on the market at any given time. Below are brief descriptions of some of the most popular.

Open

The open litter box is the most economical and most common choice. This is a simple plastic pan that comes in a variety of sizes. While it is the least expensive, there are some downsides. First is that you will have to see and smell the contents of the litter box anytime that you go near it. Also, if you have dogs, they are quite likely to help themselves to a stinky kitty treat.

Domed

Dome or covered litter boxes are another option to consider when buying a litter box. Covered litter boxes are slightly more expensive than open boxes, but are still quite affordable. This type of box gives the cat more privacy and keeps the content of the box hidden from view.

Filter

Many domed and covered litter boxes also come with a charcoal filter. While these filters may make the smell slightly more tolerable between scooping, they do not eliminate the smells altogether. The filters must be replaced every couple of months, but they are very inexpensive.

Disposable

For some cat owners, the idea of a disposable box might be very tempting. The idea is that when the box is dirty, you throw the whole thing into the trash and put down a new box. The downside is that you will need a new box at least once a week, and more often in you have more than one cat. This can get quite expensive to keep up. There will also be the extra expense of using brand new litter each time instead of scooping out the waste and adding a bit more litter to the box.

A disposable litter box is a good idea if you plan to travel with your cat. Some people who live in hurricane prone areas keep a couple of disposable pans with litter in their “go boxes”. That way, should they need to flee with their pet, they will have the items that they need without having to carry the dirty, used litter box.

Electric

Electric litter boxes are another type of item that promises to reduce the amount of work that a cat owner must do. When making a decision, if you want one of these that will do the scooping for you, plan to pay a pretty penny. Electric litter boxes start around $99 and some go for as much as $300.

Also, some pet owners find that their cats are frightened by the sound of the motor and refuse to use the box.

If you don’t mind spending $200 on a litter box, this is an option, but it really isn’t that much of a time saver as you will still have to empty the tray into which the litter box scoops the waste.

Furniture

One of the newest options is litter box furniture. These are attractive pieces of furniture, such as an end table or a faux doll house, in which the litter pan is housed. They make a great choice for those who have limited space or who do not want to deal with an unsightly litter box.

You will simply open the front of the end table, which has a door cut out for the cat to enter, and pull out the pan for cleaning.

There are many choices available when buying a litter box. A bit of research and some thought into the amount of space you have and other factors will help you determine which one is the best choice for you.

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Every cat has its own unique personality and temperament. By nature, cats have a few behaviors that have earned them the label of “finicky” and perhaps a bit snobbish. Some of these behaviors may also be interpreted as aggression. Pouncing on your feet while they’re under a blanket or chasing toys and strings are normal reactions for cats.

Cats are naturally designed to hunt small animals like rodents and birds. To do this, they need to be quiet, patient, and yes, a bit aggressive. In fact, much of their behavior is entirely natural if you understand the reasons behind it.

Common Reasons for Aggression in Cats

There’s often more than one side to every story. Cats may display aggression for various reasons, including:

• Playing/Improper Socialization
• Defending their territory
• Fear or being startled
• Medical problems, especially if there have been recent changes in health conditions
• Recognition issues (aggression toward both familiar animals and/or family members)
• Lack of attention
• Over-stimulation
• Maternal instincts
• Hunting instincts

What Can Be Done to Help Aggressive Cats?
Knowing that aggression likely has a reason means that you have a choice. You can either excuse your cat’s behavior or work on helping them overcome their aggression and become the pet you hoped for when you adopted them.

Dealing with Playful Kitties
One common reason for aggression in cats is play. Socializing a cat at a very young age is crucial, and continuing socialization as the cat ages is just as important. Often, what a cat considers fun may be seen as aggression by you. Instead of getting upset with your cat for acting like, well, a cat, it’s better to focus on training them to play a little more gently. You can look into ways to train your cat not to bite or scratch. Behavior modification techniques can teach your kitty how to play more appropriately.

New Territorial Issues or a Simple Misunderstanding?
If your cat becomes aggressive when you bring another pet home from the groomer, or when you return from a visit to a friend’s house, it could be a misunderstanding related to territorial issues. The scent of other animals (both cats and dogs, as well as other pets) can cling to your clothing or your other pet’s fur, confusing your cat and making it seem as though you’ve introduced a stranger into their territory.

Spend a few minutes re-familiarizing your cat with everyone after a trip to the groomer, and give her some time to realize it’s you before attempting to touch her. This can help her recognize family members, even when they have unfamiliar scents on them.

Fraidy Cat or Bully?
You’ve probably heard a woman shriek after being startled or seen a frightened young man lash out. Cats aren’t so different. When you scare a cat, it can respond by yowling or striking in fear—or both. Most cornered animals will choose to fight rather than flee quietly.

Often, fear is misinterpreted as aggression, especially when you’re the one getting bitten or scratched. To help prevent aggressive behavior, make sure to let your cat know you’re around and allow her to approach you, rather than trying to approach her directly.

Not Feeling Well?
Have you ever met someone who gets nicer when they’re sick? I haven’t. Many people get cranky and irritable when they’re not feeling well. It’s as if being sick gives them a license to vent over the smallest issues. Cats can be the same way.

If your cat is in pain or experiencing health changes that make her feel unwell, she may become grumpy or lash out at other family members, including other pets and even you. It’s not uncommon for cats to strike when they’re not feeling their best. Watch your cat’s behavior closely—if you notice a sudden change in behavior without any obvious cause, it’s time to take her to the vet.

Recognition Issues: See Something New?
If your cat has vision problems, she may become confused and strike out at anything she sees move. Not recognizing familiar family members can be scary for your cat, causing her to react aggressively. Moving slowly and speaking softly around her can help reduce aggressive behaviors by minimizing her fear.

Attention or Not?
Cats love attention—lots of it! But if your cat isn’t getting enough attention, or if she feels overwhelmed by too much, she may react aggressively. Giving your cat quality time is important, but it’s just as important not to overstimulate her with too much affection. Balance is key.

Mommy to the Rescue!
A mother cat will go to great lengths to protect her kittens if she feels they are in danger. If you have a mama kitty, be mindful of how you interact with her and her babies. Anything that she perceives as a threat to her kittens could result in an attack. Proceed with caution to avoid turning her into an overly protective “attack cat.”

On the Hunt
Hunting is ingrained in every cat’s nature. Even though you feed your kitty daily, her natural instincts will drive her to continue practicing her hunting skills. Pouncing on your feet or attacking her favorite toys is how she sharpens those skills.

Aggressive cats usually have a reason for their behavior. It’s rare for a cat to be just plain mean—though it is possible, it’s not common. If you’ve explored all the potential causes of aggression and have taken your cat to the vet, yet the behavior persists, you may want to consult with your vet or a local rescue group. Not all animals were meant to be pets. Some cats, especially those with a rough upbringing or those that spent their early lives as feral cats, may be difficult to train. Sometimes, after trying everything, you have to admit defeat and move on to a loving cat that is more suited to being a pet.

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