Primarily used for irrigation and toilet flushing, if correctly treated it may be used for potable applications as well. A life-saver in areas plagued by drought, harvesting rainwater is surprisingly easy and has increased in popularity in the U.S., a country officially identified as facing “imminent water shortages.” In fact, in a report on the challenges of expected water shortages in the U.S., published by the U.S. Government Accountability Office, it was reported that 36 states would suffer water shortages before 2023.

The reality is that most of the water in the U.S. and Canada comes from freshwater supplies of ground and surface water that is treated to make it potable in terms of the Safe Water Drinking Act. But freshwater isn’t an unlimited resource, which is why it is so important to conserve water from all sources.

Strangely perhaps, until relatively recently it was illegal to collect rainwater in some U.S. states, including California and Colorado. The reason was that if rainwater was harvested, it wouldn’t reach the rivers and would, as a result, decrease the allotted water rights of those living downstream.

However, the Federal Government doesn’t restrict rainwater harvesting and there are tax incentives in many areas that encourage both businesses and homeowners to invest in rainwater harvesting systems.

As the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) points out, there are varied benefits of harvesting rainwater other than collecting it and storing it as mentioned above. Because it radically decreases runoff and can be used, a rainwater harvesting system will:

• Reduce utility bill charges.
• Decrease erosion that is so often caused by excessive rainwater runoff.
• Minimize the distribution of harmful contaminants including fertilizers, pesticides, and sediments that are inadvertently that may be carried in the fast-moving runoff.
• Augment drinking water supplies for animals.
• Be utilized in drinking water systems that treat water to make it potable.

Codes & Standards for Rainwater Harvesting Systems

Plumbing codes do not generally incorporate guidelines for rainwater harvesting systems, although the Uniform Plumbing Code, developed as an American National Standard, does define “harvested rainwater,” along with reclaimed water and gray water, all of which are considered under a general heading, Water for Reuse.

Harvested rainwater is defined as storm water that is conveyed from roofs of buildings and stored in tanks or cisterns. It is then filtered and disinfected for non-potable uses including toilet flushing and landscape irrigation and sometimes treated for potable uses.

There is, though, a standard developed by the CSA Group, a Canadian-based standards organization, and published by the International Code Council (ICC) that is intended for use in both the U.S. and Canada. Titled CSA B805-18/ICC 805-2018 – Rainwater harvesting systems, it has been approved by both the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and the Standards Council of Canada (SCC). It covers roof-surface rainwater and storm water used for non-potable and potable applications at source, including those already mentioned as well as fire protection.

In the context of the code, which links designs for harvesting rainwater with all the relevant elements of buildings, storm management, roofing, plumbing, and fire suppression, rainwater includes rain water in any form including roof-runoff, storm water, and snowmelt.

It specifically covers rainwater harvesting systems that are suitable for all residential applications, including single-family residences, multi-residential buildings, and a variety of non-residential applications. So whether you live in an apartment or a suburban house, you’ll find the guidelines you need.

It doesn’t cover rainwater harvesting systems or the collection of surface water for industrial and manufacturing processes. These and those developed for commercial agricultural processes need to be designed by an MEP engineering firm in Chicago, New York, Toronto, Calgary, or wherever the system is to be located.

How Rainwater Harvesting Systems Work

There are two basic types of conveyance systems used for rainwater harvesting:

1. Wet conveyance systems that channel the water from a catchment area below the ground to a tank above the ground.
2. Dry conveyance systems that direct the rainwater directly into the tank. This means that when it isn’t raining, there won’t be water in the system.

The design of the system will depend on where the catchment area is as well as the primary use of the system. For instance, if the water is to be used for irrigation, you need to decide whether it will require a high-pressure system or a low-pressure system for drip irrigation.

The most important elements of any rainwater harvesting system are:

• The catchment system, usually the roof, that directs the water to the conveyance system. The yield will depend largely on the material of the roof. Materials will also affect whether the water can potentially be potable or not. Metal sheds contaminants easily and has a high runoff coefficient producing the highest possible yield. Steeper roofs also shed contaminants more effectively.
• Conveyance systems, whether wet or dry, carry the water to the storage tank usually via gutters and downspouts. Ideally, conveyance systems should be sized to handle 100-year storm events! Gutters should be at least five inches wide and downspouts should be provided for every 100 feet of the catchment area that supplies the downspout.
• Filtration to prevent debris entering the conveyance system. Various types are available.
• Storage tanks that may be above or below the ground. Darker colors are better because they prevent light penetration which causes the growth of algae. Apart from the necessary inlets and outlets, tanks must be sealed. In some colder areas including New York, it is vital that above-ground gravity tanks are insulated and drained regularly. Underground tanks tend to handle freeze-thaw cycles better and can be used all year round. They are, though, more expensive and you will need a pump to convey the water into the tank.

A common question people ask Toronto, Calgary, London, New York, and Chicago engineers is how much rainwater they can or should aim to harvest. You can determine how much is available by referring to the National Weather Service maps that provide a key to annual precipitation levels in conjunction with the catchment area of the property. As an example, a 30 feet x 40 feet roof will produce a catchment area of 1,200 square feet. The last figure you need is the runoff coefficient, which is dependent on the type of materials the water will run off. A metal, asphalt shingle, or gravel roof will be between 0.95 and 0.75, while gravel on the ground will have a coefficient of only 0.70 to 0.25.

Once you have these figures, you multiply the average rainwater (inches) x 0.623 Constant x the catchment area (square feet) x the runoff coefficient to ascertain how many gallons of rainwater you can potentially harvest in any one year. New York State has produced a very helpful Rainwater Harvesting Guide that you can refer to for more detailed information.

Another common question relates to human health. Even though rainwater is clean when it falls from the sky, it picks up pollutants from the catchment area, which is why it needs to be filtered and/or treated if it is to be consumed. The CSA/ICC Standard mentioned earlier has guidelines.

The post Harvesting Rainwater for Your Home appeared first on .

There are over sixty varieties of sunflowers, each with specific growth and care needs. However, the basics are largely the same. After planting the seeds—whether indoors or outdoors—you may need to transplant or thin them out in the garden. The process will take some time, but it should result in undamaged sprouts or flowers in the end.

When Transplanting Seedlings

Seedlings are delicate until their stems thicken and develop into sturdy stalks. When moving them from an indoor germination flat to the outdoors, extra care is necessary. Choose a location that receives full sun or only partial shade for the best results. Do not plant outdoors until all danger of frost has passed, as cold weather can freeze the tender stems, causing them to die and fail to regrow.

Start by digging small holes where you want to move your seedlings. Ensure they are spaced far enough apart so their roots will have ample room to grow. You don’t want to have to re-transplant them in another month because they were spaced too closely. Dig holes about two or three inches deep. Loosen the soil around the hole to help the roots take hold on the sides and bottom.

Place the sunflower in the center of the hole and cover it with soil. Gently pat down the soil so it is firm enough to keep the sunflower in place. Water the area to help the roots recover and establish themselves after the transplant.

If your seedlings are small and don’t stand up on their own, consider using a stake. Metal or wooden stakes can be placed next to the seedling and tied with string. Popsicle sticks or wooden stakes, cut to the size of the seedling, work best. The stakes will also help protect the plants from damage caused by heavy rain or high winds.

Like all young sprouts, sunflowers will attract wildlife. Rabbits, in particular, love eating the tender green stems of sunflowers. It’s not uncommon for a beautiful row of sprouts to grow to six inches tall, only to be completely mowed down overnight by a hungry rabbit or deer. A fence made of wire or mesh can help keep them out, at least until the seedlings are tall enough to lose the rabbits’ interest. For deer, the fence would need to be at least eight feet tall, but even that isn’t guaranteed. Placing human or animal hair near the seedlings may also help repel wildlife.

When Transplanting Older Plants

When digging up an older sunflower, make sure to dig wide around the plant. If you dig too close to the stalk, you could damage the roots, preventing the plant from recovering. The farther out you dig, the more roots will remain intact. Dig straight down to avoid cutting the largest roots. If the soil is heavy, shake off the excess dirt before moving the plant to its new location.

Choose a location and dig a hole that’s six to eight inches deep, and wide enough to accommodate the plant’s roots. If the plant has a lot of roots, dig even deeper to provide them with adequate space to grow. Loosen the dirt around the hole so the roots have access to air and can easily latch on.

Place the plant in the center of the hole, cover it with dirt, and pack it down to secure the plant in place. Water the sunflower generously to help the roots recover from the trauma of being moved. A mature plant typically won’t need stakes if it is planted deep enough.

Care

Sunflowers generally don’t require fertilizer under normal growing conditions. However, if you have unusual soil, consider using fertilizer lightly. Sunflowers are hardy plants, but too much chemical interference can harm them.

Once the sunflower has bloomed, birds will start to notice and feed on the seeds in the center. Leave the sunflower up until the next planting season to provide birds with an abundant food supply throughout the winter. Once the seeds are gone, you can either cut the heads off or pull the entire stalk out of the ground. Then, begin your new crop for the next season!

The post Transplanting Sunflowers – Moving the Plants to a New Location appeared first on .

Traits and Uses of Dill

Dill is an annual herb that is pleasing to the eye, resembling a delicate fern, yet it’s easier to grow and much less temperamental. Dill leaves can be used fresh or dried, and the leaves are often referred to as “dill weed.” Dill seeds, on the other hand, are potent spices perfect for stews, breads, and, of course, pickling. The leaves are ready to be harvested in spring and summer, while the seeds are typically harvested in the fall.

As an herb, dill has many uses, including home remedies for colic, promoting breast milk production, and relieving gas and heartburn. It can even help eliminate bad breath and is sometimes used as a mild sedative. Historically, dill was used as a remedy for impotence, and burnt dill seeds were applied to treat wounds. The essential oil extracted from dill is also used in perfumes and cosmetics, as well as food flavoring.

Three Places to Grow Dill

Due to its ornamental value, growing dill in containers indoors is a popular choice. It also makes a lovely background addition to flower gardens. Dill thrives in potting soil, making it well-suited for container gardening. Additionally, dill attracts beneficial garden insects, such as bees, tachinid flies, and parasitic wasps, which make it a valuable asset in vegetable gardens and orchards. Bees are crucial for pollination, while tachinid flies and parasitic wasps help control pests like caterpillars, beetles, whiteflies, moths, and fly larvae. So, growing dill is not just ornamental and culinary—it also benefits your garden in many ways.

How to Grow Dill

Dill typically grows to a height of two to three feet. It flourishes in potting soil but does not transplant well, so it’s best to plant the seeds directly in the garden if you’re not using containers. Dill requires lots of sunlight, so choose a location that receives sunlight for most of the day.

The ideal time to plant dill seeds is about a week before the last spring frost. To enjoy dill leaves throughout the season, consider sowing seeds multiple times during the summer. Dill is a fast-growing plant; it usually takes about one to two weeks after planting for the seeds to germinate, and within two to four weeks, the plants will be ready for their first harvest.

In the garden, sow the seeds about a quarter inch deep in rows spaced one and a half to two feet apart. If planting in containers, ensure that your container is at least 10 inches deep and has drainage holes, as dill prefers well-drained soil. The seeds should be sown about a quarter inch deep in potting soil inside the container. After sowing, water the seeds well and keep the plants in a sunny location. Water regularly to keep the soil moist, but avoid overwatering.

Harvesting dill is simple: just pinch off the leaves to use them. You can use them fresh or dry them for later use. The seed heads can also be dried. To store dried dill, place it in an airtight jar. Keeping the dried dill in freezer-proof containers in the freezer will help preserve its flavor.

Growing dill is easy, and the herb has numerous uses. It’s an ornamental and beneficial plant for your home, flower garden, vegetable garden, or orchard. Dill is a hardy herb with popularity worldwide.

The post Growing Dill – Add a Unique Flavor to Your Dishes appeared first on .

There are several varieties of cucumbers, from short pickling cucumbers to the long, salad-ready English cucumber. There are even round cucumbers, yellow in color, known as apple or lemon cucumbers.

As members of the same family that gives us squash and watermelons, cucumbers thrive in warm weather and sandy soil, but they can grow in most types of well-nourished ground. The ideal temperature range for cucumbers is between 65 and 75 ºF. Cucumbers and the other members of their family do not tolerate frost.

Tips for Planting and Growing Cucumbers

Planting
Because cucumbers grow fairly fast, the soil you plant them in must contain plenty of nutrients and moisture. It is recommended that you prepare your soil in the early spring or the previous fall by working in plenty of organic fertilizer or compost.

To speed up growth, start the plants indoors 10 to 14 days before you intend to plant them outside. Plant the seeds ½ inch deep in peat pots and avoid disturbing the roots when transplanting. Do not plant them outside until you are certain there is no danger of frost.

Make small hills of soil and transplant existing plants, or plant 4 or 5 seeds in each hill, spaced about 4 to 5 feet apart.

Growing
Cucumbers tend to spread all over the garden if allowed to. To avoid having them take over your garden, you can use a trellis for cucumbers to climb. Not only does a trellis save space in your garden, but it also helps prevent rot. The leaves on trellised cucumbers provide shade, which prevents the vegetables from getting sunburned.

Adequate moisture is essential, as cucumbers are 90% water. The plants especially need water when cucumbers begin to appear. To conserve moisture in the soil, you can use mulch or black plastic once the soil has warmed.

Cucumbers are susceptible to diseases, like mildew, and pests, so keep a close watch on your plants.

Containers
There are varieties of cucumbers that are perfect for container gardening. Use a pot that is at least 1 foot in diameter, and the height of the pot should be equal to its diameter.

The seed packet should tell you whether the variety of cucumber you have selected is suitable for containers. You can plant cucumbers directly in the container around mid-May, or as late as July if you prefer a fall harvest.

One advantage of container gardening is that you have greater control over the soil being used. Your mix should contain equal parts potting soil, perlite, sphagnum peat moss, and compost. Avoid using garden soil, as it is likely infested with pests. Be cautious with compost as well, ensuring it was created under high enough temperatures to kill any pests. Use slow-release fertilizers in your pots.

Use stakes in a teepee form to support your plants.

Harvesting
Cucumbers are best when enjoyed within a few hours of harvesting. Pickling cucumbers are ready to harvest in about 48 to 60 days, while other varieties are ready in about 52 to 72 days. Pick cucumbers as soon as they are ripe. If left to yellow on the vine, they will become bitter and slow the ripening of other cucumbers. Pickling cucumbers are best harvested at 3 to 6 inches long, slicing cucumbers at 6 to 10 inches long, and apple cucumbers when they are the size of a small lemon.

The post Growing Cucumbers – Ready to Harvest in 48 to 60 Days appeared first on .

It doesn’t take much space to grow pumpkins. Vines can creep well over thirty feet in length, but that doesn’t have to be on dirt. It isn’t uncommon to see vines trailing down barrels, over latticework or up fences. Be reasonable with the amount of seeds you sow, determined only be the limitations of your location. Even a small back porch is big enough for two pumpkin plants. Train and support them with nails or posts to go where you want them to grow. If gourds develop in the air, you can either pluck them as babies, or create a sling to support their growing weight. Some choose varieties that are small so that they have a wall of little jack-o-lanterns come harvest time.

Obviously, the ideal location for a pumpkin patch is a large area that has rich soil and lots of sunlight. It doesn’t have to be flat. In fact, there is a theory that these plants get really happy when given the chance to race down hills. They seem to grow more vigorously with gravity urging their wanderings. This is one reason pumpkins are grown on mounds. Another is that wider beds are more economical with regard to water conservation, weed suppression, and root development for any plant.

Once you’ve located a sunny area and determined how many plants are appropriate for the space you have, you can decide if containers, wide beds, mounds or flat land sowing is best for your situation. Once you’ve decided, you’ll want to amend your soil with compost as maturing pumpkins thrive on lots of nutrients.

Seeding to Harvest

Start your pumpkins indoors for faster growing rates. Soaking them overnight in water before planting will help them sprout quicker. Plant them in a light potting medium because seeds are so large and can otherwise absorb too much water. To avoid dampening off, add vermiculite and perlite to peat moss for a good planting mixture. As an alternative, you can plant in peat pots, and then insert the whole thing into the ground to prevent root damage.

It takes about ten days for a seed to get to transplanting stage. During this time, seedlings need warmth, fresh air, and up to 24 hours of close light. You can control the growing environment with the grow room controllers. When seedlings get to their three-leaf stage, it’s time to transplant. You don’t have to harden off seedlings, but they should be protected by greenhouse plastic — or something to help warm the ground and circulating air – above the little plants. Give them just enough water to soak up, but not so much that it puddles. Seedlings should never be in standing water.

As these seedlings mature over the next 60-70 days, they will need to eat. Feed them diluted fish emulsion or rabbit tea once every few weeks. During this time, a main vine will develop and grow one way, and a secondary vine will tend to grow the other way. Small, insignificant vines will grow off these and can be pruned. In fact, many farmers prune small, immature fruit that form on side shoots. Microgardeners, those who produce a lot of food in a small area, train the vines in spiraling circles around containers. The plants are versatile enough to accommodate a variety of needs and space requirements.

Just as varied as their growing habits are the varieties of pumpkins you can grow. Pumpkins are many things, but they are not technically squash or gourds. All three are actually in the Cucurbitaceae family, although the Greek root for pumpkin literally means: large melon. The pumpkin family has many members, and some of those are really squash. Whatever you call them, you can find one to fit your needs. Read and ask local recommendations according to your preferences. For example, pumpkins that are great for canning don’t store well, while others last for months in a cool, dry area. You can find seeds for tiny jack-o-lanterns or humongous boats.

Whatever variety you choose, your pumpkin patch joins you with a gardening tradition that’s been going on for centuries. Start a custom in your family. Plant pumpkins every year. Watch them sprawl throughout the growing season, burst forth with flowers then fruit that ripens in a magnificent display. Enjoy the harvest; eat and collect seeds for next season.

The post Growing Pumpkins – Great for Pies and Halloween appeared first on .

Planting Peas

There are many types of peas, with the most common being green peas, snap peas, and snow peas. While they differ in taste and use, the growing process for all types is the same.

Peas are a cool-season vegetable that thrives in cool, moist weather and are even frost-tolerant. In the United States, peas can be grown in nearly any region, although they don’t do well in hot weather, so summer is not the ideal time to plant them. The best time to plant pea seeds is just after the last snow melts.

Peas require sunlight, good air circulation, and well-draining soil to thrive. As thirsty plants, they need plenty of water, especially when blooming. Peas are also climbing plants, so they will need support for their vines.

When selecting a planting location, it’s best to run the rows north to south to ensure proper exposure to the sun and good air circulation. The soil should be prepared by composting organic matter such as dried manure and leaves to ensure fertility and drainage. You can set up trellises for the plants to climb or plant them near a netting frame or chain-link fence for support.

Before planting the seeds, soak them overnight or for at least one hour. Dusting the seeds with an inoculant, available at most garden centers, will improve germination by helping the seeds absorb nitrogen, which is essential for pea roots. It will also protect the seeds from diseases. Alternatively, you can use inoculant-containing liquid compost during the soil composting process instead of dusting the seeds.

Plant the prepared seeds in rows 8 to 10 inches apart. Within each row, space the seeds about one inch apart in a furrow that is about three inches deep. Cover the seeds with about one inch of soil. After 10 to 20 days, when the seedlings appear, be cautious when hoeing or watering, as the seedlings are fragile. The furrow will help protect them until they start growing. As they grow, ensure the vines are properly supported. When the plants begin to bloom, ensure they receive plenty of water, as they need it to thrive.

Harvesting Peas

Knowing when to harvest peas can be tricky. For green peas, it’s best to pick them when the pods are swollen and mature. Picking too late will result in peas that are starchy and hard. Snap peas should be harvested before the peas inside grow too large, but when the pods are plump. Snow peas are best when they remain flat, not plump. With a bit of practice, you’ll learn the optimal time to harvest each type of pea for the best flavor and quality.

Storing Peas

Fresh peas are great for salads, side dishes, or stir-fries. If possible, use them immediately after harvesting. However, if you have a large crop, storing them may be necessary. Fresh peas can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days. For long-term storage, peas can be canned or frozen. Canning tends to degrade their quality slightly, so freezing is the best option if you can’t use them fresh.

To freeze green peas, shell and wash them thoroughly right after harvesting. Blanch them in boiling water for 1.5 minutes, then immediately submerge them in ice-cold water. Drain them well and pack them in freezer containers or bags, leaving about half an inch of space in the container. If using bags, be sure to remove as much air as possible.

For snap peas, “string” and snap them, then wash before blanching. Snow peas only need to be washed (no need to shell, string, or snap). Both snap peas and snow peas should be blanched for 2 to 3 minutes in boiling water and then stored following the same freezing procedure as green peas.

The post Planting Peas – Gardening 101 appeared first on .

How to Grow Peppers Successfully

Choosing Your Peppers
The first step is to decide which varieties of peppers you want to grow. Reading gardening books about peppers, as well as recipe books, can help you decide based on how you plan to use them. It’s recommended to grow a few different types, ranging from sweet to hot and spicy, so you can enjoy a variety of flavors. After you’ve grown peppers for a few years, you’ll have time to experiment with different types and will surely develop some favorites.

Whether to grow peppers from seeds or transplants is a personal choice. Growing from seeds is less expensive, but it will take longer before you begin to see peppers. Unless you’re particularly interested in growing seedlings, most gardeners prefer transplanting young plants. You can find both seeds and started plants at most garden centers.

When buying started pepper plants, make sure they are healthy, with three to five sets of green leaves and sturdy stems. This is a good sign that the roots are healthy. Avoid purchasing wilted or unhealthy-looking plants, or plants that haven’t developed sufficient leaves.

Determining Where to Plant Them
There are three essential ingredients for a thriving pepper garden: direct sunlight, water, and well-draining, fertile soil. Choose a spot that receives full sunlight for most of the day. To ensure the soil is right, compost aged manure into the ground, which will provide the necessary nitrogen to get your peppers started. If possible, using black plastic mulch in early spring will help keep the soil warm, although in warmer climates, this may not be necessary. One last tip when selecting a location: avoid planting peppers in the same spot for two consecutive years, as the soil will be depleted and make your peppers more susceptible to disease.

Knowing When to Plant Them
Peppers are not frost-tolerant. If starting from seeds, they need to be started indoors in late winter. Transplants should be planted in the spring after the last frost when both the air and soil are warm.

How to Plant Them
Pepper transplants should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart. The holes you dig need to be deep enough to cover the transplant’s roots. To prepare for planting, fill the holes with water and allow it to soak in. Take care when removing the transplants from their containers, making sure not to disturb or break the roots. Place the plants in the holes and cover the roots with soil, leaving a slight dip around each plant to hold water. After planting, water the transplants thoroughly.

How to Care for Peppers
Peppers are relatively easy to care for. They require deep watering to develop strong roots and prevent wilting. It’s ideal to occasionally spray them with water using a light sprayer or use a soaking hose for watering. Keeping weeds away from your pepper plants is crucial. Hoeing too close to the plants can damage them, so it may be necessary to remove weeds by hand.

While most pests don’t typically bother peppers, aphids can be a problem. You can control aphids by encouraging aphid-eating insects, like ladybugs, or by using recommended chemicals for aphid control. If you notice leaf spots, it’s important to consult with a local expert to find out the best treatment for the specific disease affecting your plants.

When to Pick Peppers
Peppers are usually ready to harvest when they are fully mature. Picking peppers frequently will increase the overall yield of your crop. If you pick peppers while they’re still immature, many of them will continue to develop. Leaving peppers on the plant until they are fully ripe can help improve the flavor, especially with certain types of peppers.

The post Growing Peppers – Add Flavor to your Meals appeared first on .

Growing Broccoli

To produce a good crop of broccoli, you need to understand the ideal growing conditions, including the preferred climate, soil, and fertilization needs. Watering and sun exposure requirements are also crucial, along with controlling pests and diseases. Knowing when, where, and how to plant broccoli is the first step in ensuring a great harvest.
Broccoli thrives in cool climates, but it is sensitive to frost. Extremely hot weather is definitely its enemy. Early spring and late fall are the best seasons for growing broccoli, as temperatures should not exceed eighty degrees or drop below sixty-five degrees.

The soil for broccoli should be fertile, with plenty of organic matter added. It needs to remain moist but well-drained. Using mulch helps keep the soil moist and cool, creating optimal conditions for a prosperous crop. It’s also recommended to fertilize the soil about a week or two before planting.

It is best to plant broccoli in an area that receives full sunlight; however, it can still grow with minimal shade. Crop rotation is important when growing broccoli or other members of the cabbage family, as planting them in the same spot year after year can lead to problems. In fact, it’s advised to plant in a spot that hasn’t grown members of this genus for at least four years.

As for pest and disease control, broccoli generally doesn’t face many issues. However, pests like aphids, slugs, cabbage worms, and maggots may occasionally cause problems. These can be managed with beneficial garden insects or by spraying the plants with insecticide. Black rot, club root, and leaf spot are diseases that may sometimes affect broccoli crops. Rotating your crops helps prevent diseases. Club root can be managed by adjusting the pH with lime, but if you spot leaf spot, it’s best to destroy the plant to prevent the disease from spreading.

When planting broccoli, it’s best to use transplants, although you can also germinate them from seed. If starting from seed, it will take about six weeks before they are ready for transplanting. Before planting, it’s a good idea to use a liquid starter fertilizer on the transplants.

Transplants should be planted deep enough to cover their roots and spaced about one to two feet apart. In about sixty days (possibly longer), your broccoli will be ready for harvest. The part you pick is the flower head, and it should be harvested before the flower buds open. When you pick the main head of the broccoli, the side heads will continue to develop.

Storing Broccoli

After harvesting broccoli, it’s important to clean it thoroughly to remove any pests. This can be done by soaking the broccoli in a mixture of white vinegar and warm water (not hot) for about fifteen minutes.
Fresh broccoli can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. For longer storage, freezing is recommended. To freeze broccoli, cut it into pieces and blanch it in boiling water for about three minutes. Afterward, immediately transfer it to ice water for about three minutes, drain it, and then store it in zip-lock freezer bags. Frozen broccoli is “almost” as good as fresh and can be stored for up to six months.

Serving Broccoli

Broccoli makes a wonderful appetizer or side dish and is excellent in salads. However, serving it may seem a bit more challenging if you’re used to the pre-cut, ready-to-serve varieties found in the grocery store. When you grow your own broccoli, you’ll need to remove the leaves and the tough part of the stalk. You may choose to cut off just the buds to serve them, but the stalks are edible too. You can either remove the buds and cut the stalks into pieces or slice them lengthwise to make broccoli spears. Broccoli spears are great when steamed, and the cut-up portion is perfect for casseroles and soups. Of course, fresh broccoli flowerets are a delicious addition to salads.
For a nutritious vegetable, the versatility of serving broccoli makes it a top choice to grow in your garden.

The post Planting Broccoli – A Nourishing and Versatile Vegetable appeared first on .

Characteristics of Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are members of the cabbage family. In appearance, they look like miniature cabbages, but they taste quite different. While cabbage has a bland flavor, Brussels sprouts have a delicate, distinct taste. The flavor becomes milder when the crop is exposed to light frost or snow, which makes them even better.

In the garden, Brussels sprouts are a hardy plant. The sprouts grow on a stem that’s about two to three feet long, with several sprouts growing from the leaf axils along the stem. They develop from the bottom to the top. While they take a long time to grow, they are well worth the wait.

Brussels sprouts are highly nutritious. They are extremely high in vitamin C, which is essential for preventing heart disease, cancer, and stroke, and improving immunity to common illnesses like colds. Brussels sprouts are also a good source of vitamin K, which supports bone health, and they contribute to the circulatory and nervous systems. Additionally, they are a valuable source of folic acid, which is known to prevent birth defects.

Growing Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts grow well throughout the United States, although most commercial growers are in coastal areas of California. They are best planted from late spring to mid-summer so they can take advantage of the fall frost, which improves their flavor, making it milder. If planted too early, and they mature during hot weather, they are likely to be bitter. If you’re growing from seed, start them about five weeks before you intend to transplant them.

The space where you plant Brussels sprouts should not have previously grown members of the cabbage family for at least four years. Otherwise, they will be susceptible to a cabbage-crop-killing disease called clubroot. Other occasional problems include black rot, black leg, downy mildew, and fusarium yellows.

When planting the sprouts in the garden, space them about two to three feet apart in prepared soil. While Brussels sprouts can grow in a variety of soils, optimal growth requires well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.

When the plants are about a foot tall, applying nitrogen fertilizer will improve the plants’ stamina and hardiness. When weeding, be careful not to damage the plants’ shallow roots. The crop will need plenty of water during hot weather. Brussels sprouts are ready to be harvested when the buds are about an inch in size and firm. Be sure to cut them off the stem before the leaves turn yellow.

Storing Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts on the stem can be stored in a cool place for several weeks if they haven’t been cut. Once removed from the stem, they can be stored in the refrigerator for about three days to a week. If you want to keep them longer, freezing is the best option. Before freezing, blanch the sprouts in boiling water for three to five minutes, drain them, and rinse with cold water. Then, store them in an airtight freezer-proof container or freezer bags and place them in the freezer.

Cooking Brussels Sprouts

Before cooking Brussels sprouts, wash them well under running water or soak them for about 15 minutes to remove any bugs. Forget the “old timer’s” version of over-boiling them and drenching them in butter. Some people enjoy that style, but it’s likely the reason many people say they don’t like Brussels sprouts.

Brussels sprouts are actually a delicacy in gourmet cooking. They are fantastic sautéed in virgin olive oil with a touch of garlic. They add a touch of class to your potatoes and spring vegetables that are cooked alongside a pot roast. They can also be steamed or stir-fried. There are countless recipes that make Brussels sprouts appealing. Explore the wonderful variations of preparing Brussels sprouts, and they are sure to become one of your favorite vegetables.

The post Brussels Sprouts – A Tasty Vegetable appeared first on .

Any organic intervention in your life is better than none, so take the information that fits your needs and begin. Who knows? That first step into the world of independent gardening may free you enough to catapult you into full-fledged organic farming at its best.

Composting: A Key to Organic Gardening

What is considered one man’s garbage is another man’s treasure. For organic purists, composting is almost canon—though not absolutely necessary for organic gardening. Because it is messy and aromatic, some may choose to purchase composted soil or pre-composted products instead of learning this age-old method.

Composting is the science of decomposition in a controlled environment, such as a large garbage can, a 5 ft. x 5 ft. hole in the ground, or an expensive drum that turns automatically. It accelerates the breakdown of once-living matter into enriched soil and nutrients, perfect for the health of your garden. The compost gardener works to recycle appropriate wastes of any living matter, along with a healthy supply of bacteria (purchased or naturally available in the soil through hard work and time).

To compost, accumulate fruit, vegetable, and grain scraps throughout the year. Yes, this takes time and may not produce a fragrance that pleases your nose, but you’ll reap the benefits by growing fruits and vegetables packed with the vitamins and minerals your body needs. Recycling leftover food scraps, leaves, grass, and hay is at the heart of organic gardening and well worth the effort.

Compost must be turned regularly to oxygenate the matter. Oxygen is required to heat and decompose the food into nutrients and soil in a timely manner. Without the oxygen provided by turning, the material will take its natural time to change into soil. While this is acceptable, many gardeners want to use the recycled waste within six months and are willing to put in the biweekly labor of turning the compost. Some may roll the drum of “brown gold” around the yard, while others prefer turning it by hand with a pitchfork.

Fertilizing

Without fertilizing additives (whether natural or chemical), plants will be stunted and unhealthy. Organic gardeners often use compost to augment the nutrients in the soil and improve texture and good bacteria, but most compost should not fully replace fertilizing additives. Cynthia Boruff, a gardener with fifty years of experience, shared that she annually adds compost, chicken manure, alfalfa tea (once plants are at least six inches tall), and her special formula for fertilizer.

“Since I don’t rely on commercial chemical fertilizers, I vary my organic methods to ensure a broader spectrum of nutrients,” says Cynthia. “My formula, which replaces purchased fertilizer, is a combination of blood meal, bone meal, and dolomite (or agricultural lime) in equal proportions. I mix it into the soil when setting young seedlings or planting seeds. It has never failed me! My corn is the biggest in the county, and my vegetables are award-winning.”

Gardeners who avoid chemical fertilizers practice crop rotation—a common technique to reduce the need for additional fertilizers. This helps prevent nutrient depletion specific to individual plant species. For example, organic gardeners may plant carrots in a specific row one year and a different vegetable in that spot the following season. Since different plants require different nutrients, the soil will not be depleted, and less organic fertilizer is needed.

Seed Selection

Depending on your definition of “organic,” you may choose to purchase seeds from a universal seed catalog or from an organic seed farm. The differences range from multi-generational hybrids and genetically engineered plants on one end of the spectrum to heritage or heirloom seeds on the other.

Purists on the organic side strictly purchase only heirloom seeds because these seeds have changed little over decades, sometimes even centuries. Pure high-protein bean seeds used by the Anasazi have survived intact for centuries and have been handed down from generation to generation. Heritage farms have preserved the purity of the bean and offer the seeds for sale through catalogs. The same is true for a variety of beans brought over by the Pilgrims on the Mayflower. These catalogs often boast seventy-five to one hundred different plant seeds, sometimes with fascinating histories.

Heirloom seed catalogs are available online, but it can be more fun to collect seeds or catalogs from other organic gardeners or heritage seed club members. Once you’ve acquired seeds, it’s essential to learn how to harvest and store them properly to maintain quality control and preserve the purity of the heirloom seeds. While it’s tempting to grow an entire garden of heirloom plants, gardeners may find themselves disappointed with the final product. Without hybridization science, some historic plants may be smaller or less flavorful.

Winifred Meidinger, a 90-year-old gardener, collects her heirloom seeds each year for the following season. She especially loves her tomatoes and zucchini, which have been handed down through generations for over a hundred years. Ms. Meidinger enjoys the taste and texture of her produce and takes pride in knowing she is one of the few gardeners maintaining the heirloom philosophy. Many find it fascinating to connect with the past by using the same seeds the pioneers used—untouched by modern science.

Heirloom seeds are absolutely organic, but not all organic seeds are “heirloom.” Organic seeds are not genetically engineered and are not chemically treated before purchase. Most organic farmers primarily purchase from organic seed catalogs. However, they may also buy seeds from standard catalogs if it’s the best way to obtain the desired taste or texture of a particular fruit.

Standard seeds, from stores and most catalogs, are often coated with chemicals to prevent mold or fungus growth and to protect them from deterioration in the soil before germination. While there are organic methods to achieve the same protective measures without chemicals, few gardeners know these techniques. These methods should be researched in organic farming books and magazines. Approaches include planting in paper towels or properly collecting and drying seeds.

Bruised Knuckles

The benefits of organic gardening far outweigh the workload. However, the time spent down in the dirt is far greater than with standard chemical gardening. It requires time to pick bugs off plants, set jars of natural attractants, and place boards on moist ground to trap insects. It also requires working manure and teas into the soil—all instead of relying on the quick fix of chemicals. The reward is health from chemical-free produce for you and your family, along with physical and spiritual balance from the daily exercise needed to nurture your garden.

In the past, knowledge of organic gardening was passed down through generations, along with a basket of tricks to make the job easier. Today, beginners may face risks in achieving good produce during the first season or two unless they have a mentor nearby to offer advice. Fortunately, there are hundreds of books, articles, and internet resources to help new gardeners succeed. However, even that requires time.

Organic farming is a noble pursuit that demands perseverance. This resolve will remind you of your ancestors and your past each time you pick up a handful of composted soil or preserve an heirloom seed. It will keep you looking toward the future—skipping over current challenges—and focusing on the seeds you’ll purchase, the produce you’ll harvest, and the new recipes and uses you’ll create. For that, you won’t mind a few scrapes, an aching back, or bruised knuckles. It will all be worth it because, philosophically, it is where you want to be.

The post Organic Gardening – Health Advantages of Going Green appeared first on .