Bleeding in the lower intestines, such as the colon and rectum, generally causes hematochezia. It is characterized by the presence of bright, fresh blood in the feces. Hematochezia should not be confused with melena, which refers to the passage of dark, tar-colored feces, caused by bleeding higher up in the intestinal tract.

If your cat has blood in its stool only once and otherwise appears to be eating, drinking, and acting normally, the cause may simply be a minor gastrointestinal upset. This could be due to overeating, eating unfamiliar food, or consuming something that doesn’t agree with them. Some cats are especially sensitive to stress, and any sudden environmental changes—such as adding a new pet, having a baby, or altering their routine—can induce colitis. Sudden changes in food brands can also cause this condition, as cats often require a gradual transition to avoid complications.

However, if your cat has repeated episodes of blood in the stool, appears lethargic or depressed, or the blood is accompanied by diarrhea or vomiting, it may indicate a more severe medical issue requiring veterinary attention.

Common Causes of Blood in Cat Stool

The most common cause of blood in the stool in cats is colitis, or inflammation of the colon. Colitis can be a symptom of various gastrointestinal disorders, and identifying the underlying cause of the inflammation can be challenging.

When colitis occurs, inflammation in the colon causes the cells in the intestinal lining to separate, becoming permeable and allowing water and secretions to leak out. Gut motility is affected, along with the colon’s ability to absorb water and store feces. This leads to frequent diarrhea, often with mucus and blood, as the food in the intestines passes through the colon before nutrients and water can be absorbed by the body.

Aside from blood in the stool, cats with colitis will defecate frequently, producing very little stool, and will strain repeatedly in the litterbox. Since the biggest complication of colitis is rapid dehydration, veterinary attention should be sought any time your cat has blood in its stool and diarrhea. Your veterinarian can treat the dehydration and help identify and treat the underlying causes.

Parasites are a common cause of colitis and bloody stools in kittens. Kittens typically acquire roundworms through the milk of an infected mother. Adult cats can acquire the parasite by eating a rodent or other animal that is infected. These long, spaghetti-like parasites can cause severe symptoms in young animals, including vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stools, and coughing and gagging. If left untreated, these worms can cause pneumonia, intestinal obstructions, and death.

Protozoa infections, such as Giardia and Coccidia, occur when a single-celled parasite is ingested via contaminated soil, food, or water. These parasites can cause a range of gastrointestinal issues, from an occasional bout of soft stools to a severe episode of vomiting, diarrhea, and hematochezia.

In unvaccinated cats and kittens, feline Panleukopenia can be a devastating disease. Also known as feline distemper, Panleukopenia is caused by the parvovirus and is highly contagious. It is particularly concerning in shelters, catteries, and boarding facilities where it can remain active and infectious in the environment for months or even years. This virus is especially dangerous to kittens whose immune systems are not fully developed, and it can cause a high fever, vomiting, nasal discharge, respiratory signs, diarrhea, hematochezia, dehydration, and death.

In older cats, one of the main concerns associated with hematochezia is inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). Cats with IBD develop a chronic level of inflammatory cells in their gastrointestinal tract, which can affect the mucosa of different areas: the small intestine (enteritis), colon (colitis), and stomach (gastritis).

Unlike colitis caused by temporary intestinal upsets, cats with IBD experience an ongoing inflammatory response in their intestines that does not resolve. The exact causes are unknown, but they have been linked to food sensitivities, bacteria in the intestinal tract, and immune system dysfunctions.

If left untreated, IBD can lead to poor digestion and nutrient absorption, as well as abdominal discomfort. Over time, the chronic inflammation can cause scarring of the mucosa, and studies have shown that this scarring often leads to the development of lymphoma, a type of cancer, in the intestines.

Blood in the stool can also be attributed to more external causes, such as trauma to the rectum, anal gland abscesses, or tumors and polyps in the rectum.

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The situation may be brought on by a trip to the vet or a front door left open, but the worst of nightmares begins when a beloved four pawed family member escapes or goes missing. If you have never encountered this situation, the experience can be quite a shock. For many of us it can be paralyzing at a time when we need to be on our best game. It is a time for action when you may feel the need to curl up and just cry. Below is a list of the most immediate activities to pursue when first you realize your cat has escaped or is missing.

First Response Protocol…

A step by step list

Relax and don’t panic… but also don’t wait to start looking. Statistics prove that pet owners with the greatest likelyhood of recovering their pet start looking immediately and have an organized approach. Be one of these pet owners.

Ground Zero Property Search: Make sure your pet is really missing. If you did not see him or her escape or do not know of anyone who did, take the time to do a quick search of your property and the most obvious hiding spots before bolting for the front door to look. With cats you need to take a little longer with your ground zero property search as a cat that is feeling poorly can be right inside the house hunkered down and feeling miserable. Think dark and concealed spots that are out of the everyday traffic pattern of your home or property. Check your home, yards, garage, outbuildings, shed, barns, etc.

Preparing to search:

What to bring: You can gather this in 5 minutes or less. A better idea is to have all of this prepared ahead of time and stored with your Pet ID kit*. You can also have some one else do this while you do the ground zero search.

• Full body photo of cat – preferably taken from the side
• 20 cards with 24 hour phone number & the words LOST CAT
• Treats
• Carrier
• Whistle, squeaky toy or clicker if pet has been trained to one or thinks they are fun and will respond.

Immediately, grab your pet’s ID* kit with photo. If you do not have an ID Kit* or have not finished the identification requirements, grab a photo of your pet and a business card with your phone number on it. If you don’t have a business card or if the card does not have a phone number on it that you will answer 24 hours a day, take a yellow sticky, index card or any scraps of paper and write your cell phone number on them with the words LOST CAT. Make at least 20. Don’t forget the carrier and treats in case bribery is necessary. There is something in your refrigerator that will work in an emergency. Hot dogs, last night’s dinner, bologna, cheese, tuna fish may all work in an emergency. A missing pet is an emergency.

Bring in the troops: This is the time to call in your friends, family and neighbors. If possible, recruit those who will be supportive in your efforts and understand your concern and attachment for your pet. Call in your supportive friends and not the naysayers… you need to keep yourself focused and energized in your efforts.

Make it easy for the pet to return: Leave someone at the point of escape or your home in case pet returns. If no one is available leave a gate open, back door, car door, crate or something that pet is familiar with and may want to stay near. In the worst case and with nothing else to leave, take off a piece of your clothing and leave it at the front door, near the gate or on the front porch.

Head for the door and begin to search the surrounding neigborhood or area.

Searching for a Missing CAT in the first hours

Choose a Direction: If you know in which direction the cat went, go that way, (and forget the ground zero search as you know he’s out). If you are not sure of the direction and your cat has got out before, go in the direction he went the last time he got out. If you have no idea what so ever, go to the spot where you think the cat escaped and assume he went right. This is a percentage call because cats, like dogs, turn to the right more often than they turn to the left. If however, there is something scary to the right or something is blocking the way then choose another direction.

The cat that lives indoors or bolted in fear

Cats will bolt in a direction and tend to stay straight. Cats tend to run under cover, up against houses, bushes or fences if they are frightened or tend towards skittish behavior. When frightened all cats will bolt towards cover so if your cat lives indoors all the time or was most likely scared, look for cover that the cat could have traveled along. Think in terms of straight lines for direction of travel.

Get down on you knees and look from a height close to the level of your cat’s eyes, (about 18 inches is fine). You will be surprised at how different the landscape looks from this vantage. Look for obvious cover and things a cat could get under. Also if the cat has escaped before, retrace the direction he ran towards the last time.

The cat that has access to the outdoors and occasionally or regularly is let outside

When a cat that has regular outdoor access does not come home as usual, the highest probability is that something has kept him from returning. There is myriad of situations that occur in this situation but one usually must assume it is an incident of some sort. Male cats and females in heat may go wandering on occasion but there is usually something that will alert you to a change in behavior beforehand. If your outdoor access cat goes missing, it is necessary to consider an event or situation has occurred that is keeping the cat from returning as has been his or her routine.

Neighborhood QUIK search

Easy to remember formula:

5 for 2 no more than 1 in 12 (explained in the paragraph below)

Look within a radius of five houses for the first two hours using the techniques mentioned. If after two hours there is no resolution, expand your search spiraling out from the point last seen as the center of the spiral. In the first twelve hours it is generally not necessary to go more than one block in each of the eight compass directions.

Calling for your cat: One of the most difficult parts of a search is trying to remain calm when you feel something may have happened. As you call your cat it is important to use your inside, affectionate voice. When we are stressed or trying to project our voice, we put tension in our voice which most pets perceive as something wrong. Always use a low, soft voice and affectionate clicks and noises you use regularly when playing or talking to your cat. Screaming or yelling a cat’s name is not effective and sends most cats further away in panic. Most of us have funny, affectionate or maybe even goofy pet names we call our beloved pet… this is the time to use them.

• Call the cat’s name but stop to listen…
• Call… listen (pause to count of 10).
• Call (pause to count of 10)… listen.
• Continue calling in the areas you feel are more probable and likely for your cat to explore or hide in.

Remember to use your indoor, happy affectionate voice like you want to play or give affection.

Talk to everyone you see…

As you are looking, show your cats picture to everyone. Remember to leave them one of your telephone cards or premade flyer from your PET ID Kit*. Askeveryone you see outside, “Have you seen this cat?” Listen for their response but do not stop to chat unless they have recent information about your pets disappearance.

When you see your cat

When you see your cat, do not give chase but slowly go to your knees and encourage the cat to approach. Try these techniques:

• Drop to your knees and use your inside voice. If your cat stops, encourage him to approach. Offer a tidbit or treat if you have one.
• If the cat is running develop a strategy to “head him off at the pass”. Intersecting an animal’s forward direction is better than flat out sprinting behind. Angulation in the direction you think he or she will go is more effective.

Follow your leads and sightings until you either find your pet or run out of clues and sightings. If you go over three hours with no sightings or clues, head back to the point of escape to update and design a more formal search strategy with public awareness, development of witnesses and effective activities that are more likely to lead to a reunion with your pet.

A quick call to a licensed professional, skilled in missing cat behavior and scenarios, is time and money well spent. Experience has proven that pet owners who use the services of a professional at the onset of the their search, are rewarded with a faster recovery time. A well planned strategy with input from a professional, is an effective tool when a beloved cat goes missing.

*A PET ID Kit is a preventive measure, strongly recommended by Karin for pet owners whose dogs and cats are members of their families.

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It’s becoming increasingly popular to bring your pet on vacation. With pet-friendly hotels and the welcoming nature of long-distance relatives, you might find yourself traveling with a cat more often in the upcoming years. That is, of course, if you can figure out how to prevent the shrieking yowl that has the kids covering their ears and begging for the first rest stop within half an hour of leaving the driveway. It can be enough to make you turn the car around.

Tips for a Smoother Journey with Your Cat

Fortunately, there are numerous little tricks you can try before your next road trip. However, not all disgruntled felines will take to anything other than their beloved home, and you may want to consider the quality of the trip overall for those who refuse to be comforted.

To rule out general dissatisfaction and loneliness as the main cause for the ruckus your cat insists on creating, try keeping the carrier (he’s in a pet carrier, isn’t he?) close enough so that a human he really likes can reach in from time to time to reassure him that he’s not alone. For some cats, this is really all it takes. Others, however, seem to demand their own personal suite for the next trip.

Cats are truly unique creatures. No two are alike, and their personalities can range from dog-like companionship to aloof beings who only show up for food and the occasional scratch on the head. How your cat relates to you—and how much interaction he prefers—will partly determine how well he handles traveling as your companion.

Cats should always go inside the carrier. Even lap-friendly cats, who are more than content to roam around the car while you rack up the miles, need to be confined for their own safety. Some cats may go crazy at the mere thought of enduring a car ride. These cats are usually better off being left at home or sedated if the trip is unavoidable.

Keeping your cat safe is the number one priority. Cat carriers, hotel rooms with pet privacy (which is nothing more than a “Do Not Disturb” sign and the option to refuse housekeeping services), and some form of safe confinement while you’re out of the room are essential. If you’re staying at a relative’s or friend’s house, you’ll still need to ensure that your cat can’t escape—especially if there are other animals in the house.

Keeping your cat happy while also keeping him safe is no easy task. He needs to be confined, which can be torturous for a cat who hasn’t yet adjusted to the carrier. Introducing him to the idea of the carrier well before the trip, for random periods of time, is highly recommended. Traveling with a cat becomes much easier when your feline companion has a basic understanding of what’s going on.

The actual act of traveling—whether by car or by plane—is undoubtedly the hardest part of the trip for 98% of cat companions. Some cats can be comforted through the bars of the pet carrier, while others may claw, bite, or scratch at any fingers attempting to offer comfort. How he handles his fear will determine his actions. Never let children try to comfort the cat until you know how he will react.

Other cats may be more content with a few familiar toys and belongings scattered throughout the carrier. Some prefer to be completely covered—a blanket over the carrier works well for the kitty who doesn’t want to see the world rushing by. Others are more interested in their surroundings and feel the need to peek out the windows of the car to maintain a sense of control. Finding what works best for your cat is a matter of trial and error. A few short trips in the months leading up to the big trip will help you figure out what works best.

If your cat requires regular use of sedatives before a trip, you may want to reconsider whether travel is truly better for him—or for you. Sedatives should never be administered lightly.

If you know you’ll be traveling with a cat from the start, begin car training him as early as possible. Small trips here and there (never leave a cat unattended in the car, especially in hot or cold weather) will help him get used to the idea of traveling from the very beginning.

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Just like with humans, reducing food intake alone may not be enough to curb the problem, especially if it has been ongoing for years. Besides putting your cat on a diet, they will need an increase in stimulation and physical exercise.

Addressing Feline Obesity and Its Risks

A high-fat content in any animal is not healthy. Just like humans, felines and other creatures that are obese run the risk of heart disease, joint and back problems, diabetes, and the complications that come with these issues. Obesity can shorten an animal’s lifespan by three to seven years. So, if your furry friend is carrying around a few extra pounds, it’s important to not only adjust their diet but also promote a healthier lifestyle.

Start with the extras. Just like with humans, meals are often not the culprit of the extra weight. Snacking too much between meals is the fastest way for your kitten to plump up. Cat treats are often a good source of iron and essential fatty acids that cats need in order to experience good health. However, a bag of treats per day is like a human eating a whole package of cookies throughout the day. Cutting out those calories alone can often help Fuzzy tone down. Adding just one fifteen-minute play session to his day can help develop muscle tone and burn fat. But when he turns into the buff envy of the alley, don’t let him return to old habits, or he may begin a feline version of yo-yo dieting.

One of the most tempting sins in the feline feeding frenzy includes table scraps. Table scraps make great treats, and some even believe they’re healthier than prepackaged treats. However, a cat’s body is not the same as a human’s. He is unlikely to process our foods the same way. That means he cannot tolerate the same amounts or concentrations of saturated fats, sugars, and even fats derived from artificial sources. Table scraps can easily add unwanted pounds to his waistline.

Of course, you may have already started the habit of allowing him to sample the dishes after mealtime, and changing his behavior will be a serious challenge. You may not even be fully comfortable asking him to endure total denial. He doesn’t understand why you’re suddenly requiring him to stay down off the counter while you clear the dishes. He’s been practicing his “dishwasher” act for the last six years. If this is the case, try cutting his portion down to a small amount. Instead of allowing him to clear the plates in their entirety, give him the smallest portion left on a paper plate or in his dish.

Because cats are nimble, putting a cat on a diet can be a significant challenge. Unlike a dog, who is unlikely to jump up and scour the countertops for extra tidbits, cats are able to leap wherever food is stored—even if it’s covered with plastic wrap. In many cases, cats who are suddenly denied spend a lot of time lurking around the countertops, hoping to find a scrap you left behind. While the extra activity may be good for him, it’s also likely to counteract your efforts and provide an unpleasant surprise when you go to retrieve the dessert you covered three hours ago for company.

When you commit to your cat’s waistline, you must make sure that everything he could potentially find is carefully tucked away. Remember, he will be particularly determined. Spend a moment thinking like a cat and discover all the places he might sneak a treat—countertops, refrigerator tops, even some cabinets.

Once you have cut out the treats, you might start seeing improvement almost immediately. However, for some particularly pudgy pals, a change in food may also be necessary. Reduced-calorie foods can be introduced gradually over about a week. For the first few days, mix ¼ low-calorie food with ¾ regular food. Gradually increase the low-calorie food while decreasing the regular food. By day five, you should be adding ¾ low-calorie food and ¼ regular food. Within one week, he should be on a low-calorie diet without digestive issues from the switch.

As mentioned earlier, putting a cat on a diet is often not enough. In fact, without exercise, your cat might not lose more than ½ pound. Use new toys or old favorites, and set aside scheduled playtime to ensure he has two to three fifteen-minute play sessions daily. If you haven’t noticed improvement within a month, consider taking him to the veterinarian. Sometimes a prescription weight loss program or medication may be necessary. However, approach this cautiously and only as a last resort after behavior modification. Remember, it’s your behavior that also needs modification. Allowing your cat to manipulate you with cuteness or annoying behavior isn’t doing him any favors.

Putting a cat on a diet is a commitment—a lengthy one that requires determination, time, and forethought. However, it’s vital for your cat’s health that you dedicate the appropriate energy. He relies on you for everything, including your good judgment. It’s not natural for any animal to become overweight, and it’s often the result of lifestyle choices or misunderstanding by humans. If you notice your cat gaining weight, a diet may be necessary before he hits the obese stage.

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This is an important question to address because by the time a cat shows obvious symptoms, such as not eating or vomiting, she may have been sick for a while.

The best thing you can do is get to know your cat. Learn her normal eating and sleeping habits and pay attention to her behavior. Also, observe the condition of her coat—its density, color, and sheen. When you’re familiar with how your cat behaves when she’s healthy, it will be much easier to notice when something is off.

There are many signs you can look for to assess your cat’s health. Below are some indicators that something may be wrong:

Common Signs That Your Cat May Be Sick

Hair Loss
June Rauch was brushing her cat one night when she noticed a large bald spot on one of the rear legs. Around the bald spot, there appeared to be black dirt. Wherever this black substance was visible, the hair could be easily removed. As she continued to remove hair, more black dirt appeared. When she contacted her vet, she was told it could be an infection caused by fleas, a virus, or something more serious, like pancreatic cancer. June was confident it wasn’t fleas, as there were no signs of flea activity.

After visiting the vet, they ran tests for the more serious possibilities and gave her cat a long-lasting shot of antibiotics while they awaited results. The vet explained that if the hair loss was due to a virus, the shot would resolve it in a few days.

Fortunately, the antibiotics took care of the problem. However, June might not have noticed the hair loss had she not taken the time to brush her cat that evening.

Hair loss is not normal, and it doesn’t happen without a reason. As June learned, the cause of hair loss could be quite serious, so take the time to regularly inspect your cat’s coat.

Gums
It may not be easy to get a good look inside your cat’s mouth, but doing so can provide valuable clues about various health issues.

When Ken Smith’s cat stopped eating, he initially thought she was grieving the loss of her sister, who had passed away suddenly. He assumed she would start eating again soon. Then, while she was yawning, Ken noticed her gums were yellow. He rushed her to the vet the next day, and it turned out she had liver disease, which was on the verge of turning into liver failure. Ken opted for an expensive surgery that ultimately saved his cat’s life. If he hadn’t noticed her yellow gums and taken action, she likely wouldn’t have survived.

Yellow gums are a sign of jaundice, which can indicate a liver problem. Gums can also offer clues to other health issues.

A bluish tint may suggest your cat isn’t getting enough oxygen, and very white gums—rather than the normal pink—could indicate anemia.

It’s important to note that some cats develop freckles or other discoloration on their gums as they age. Still, anything out of the ordinary should be checked by a vet as soon as possible. The only way to know what’s normal for your cat is to familiarize yourself with the appearance of her gums.

Eyes
Just like the color of the gums, the appearance of your cat’s eyes can provide clues to various health issues. To recognize when something’s wrong, you need to know what’s normal for your cat’s eyes.

The whites of a cat’s eyes should be white. Look for any discoloration, including bloodshot areas or patches of color. These could be signs that something is amiss.

Other eye abnormalities to watch for include swollen, pink areas around the eyes, changes in eye color, a cloudy film over the pupils, or pupils that look different from one another. All of these could indicate a serious health issue.

Other Signs
Other visible signs that might signal trouble include changes in the sheen or density of the coat, discoloration around the ears, and sneezing or coughing. Additionally, if your cat becomes lethargic, refuses to eat or drink, or shows changes in her litter box habits, these could also be indicators of a health problem.

In conclusion, there are many ways to answer the question, “How can I tell if my cat is sick?” Knowing what’s normal for your cat is key. Every cat is different, but getting to know YOUR cat will help you notice when something isn’t right.

When you do notice a problem, don’t wait for it to resolve on its own. Instead, contact your vet to determine whether the symptoms are serious enough to warrant an office visit.

By paying attention to your cat and giving her a thorough check-up once a month, you’ll be better equipped to catch any health problems early, giving her the best chance for a full recovery.

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Common Cat Health Concerns

There are many potentially deadly viruses and diseases that can affect cats. Luckily, many of the most common ones are almost fully preventable through vaccination. Vaccinating your cat or kitten may be one of the most important decisions you make for the health of your pet. According to the American Association of Feline Practitioners, all cats, regardless of breed, sex, or geographic location, should be vaccinated against the following diseases.

Feline Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper) is caused by the feline parvovirus. This highly infectious disease is especially prevalent in catteries, shelters, and boarding facilities. The virus can remain active in the environment for months to years after it is introduced. Cats become infected with panleukopenia by coming into contact with the virus on litter boxes, bowls, or through contaminated feces. Panleukopenia is especially dangerous for kittens and can cause fever, vomiting, diarrhea, and even death. Kittens should be vaccinated for panleukopenia at 8 weeks of age, with boosters every 4 weeks until they reach 16 weeks. After that, they should be vaccinated annually or every 3 years.

Feline Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus are the two most common causes of upper respiratory diseases in cats. Caused by the herpesvirus or the calicivirus, both are highly contagious and can spread through nose-to-nose contact or by sharing infected items. Although these viruses are not usually life-threatening in adult cats, they can be fatal for kittens, and some cats that develop the virus may become chronic carriers. Vaccination should begin at 6-8 weeks of age and continue every 3-4 weeks until the cat is 16 weeks old. Afterward, booster shots are needed annually, or every three years, often combined with the panleukopenia vaccine in the form of an FVRCP vaccine.

Rabies is a deadly, untreatable illness transmitted through the bites of infected animals. The disease is always fatal, and due to their hunting nature, cats may come into contact with rabid animals. It is recommended (and in some states, required) that all cats be vaccinated for rabies, whether they are indoor or outdoor cats. Kittens should receive their initial vaccination at 16 weeks of age, followed by a booster at 1 year, and subsequent boosters every three years.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is a retrovirus that attacks the immune system of infected cats. Highly contagious, it can spread through saliva, nasal discharge, or from an infected mother to her kittens. FeLV causes a range of health issues, including weight loss, lethargy, anemia, cancer, and infections. A simple blood test should be performed before vaccinating for FeLV to ensure the cat isn’t already a carrier. While vaccination for FeLV can have side effects, such as a vaccine-associated sarcoma (cancerous mass) at the injection site, the risk of contracting FeLV is greater than the potential vaccine reaction, especially in outdoor cats. Kittens should be vaccinated at 12-16 weeks, with a booster in 4 weeks, followed by annual vaccinations.

The best way to address your cat’s health concerns is to build a relationship with your veterinarian. Open communication will help you select the best vaccination protocol for your cat and ensure they remain healthy throughout their life.

Spaying or neutering your cat is not only the most effective way to prevent pet overpopulation, but it also provides significant health benefits. Female cats should be spayed (ovariohysterectomy) before they enter their first heat cycle (before 6 months of age) to reduce the risk of developing mammary (breast) cancer by almost 95% and eliminate the risk of ovarian or uterine cancer entirely. In male cats, neutering eliminates the risk of testicular cancer. It also reduces several behavior problems common in male cats, such as urine spraying, fighting with other cats, and the urge to roam in search of a mate. Like vaccinations, spaying and neutering is a simple way to ensure your cat’s health and well-being and reduce the suffering of unwanted cats and kittens.

Ensuring your cat is free of parasites is another important aspect of pet ownership. Your cat spends time in your lap, sleeps on your bed, and is part of your life. It’s important to make sure they aren’t harboring parasites, either inside or outside.

Routine fecal screening with your veterinarian can help detect and eliminate common internal parasites such as roundworms, tapeworms, coccidia, and Giardia. Many of these parasites can also be transmitted to humans, especially children, so regular screening is essential.

External parasites, such as fleas and ticks, should also be controlled. There are many effective products on the market that work well to kill fleas and ticks, preventing them from infesting your cat. Your veterinarian can help you choose the best product for your area and recommend the appropriate frequency of use. Fleas and ticks not only cause discomfort for your pet but can also transmit serious diseases like tapeworms and Lyme disease.

Throughout your cat’s life, regular veterinary visits will help identify health concerns early. Routine dental care, annual health exams, and, as your cat ages, annual blood and urine tests can help detect potential health problems early, allowing for early diagnosis and treatment before they become more serious.

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This is an important choice as it is one of the items that you will have to buy on a regular basis. You will need to consider several factors when making a decision including price, effectiveness, how long the litter lasts, whether it tends to track or stay in the box and if your cat seems drawn to it.

Keeping those points in mind, below is a brief description of some types of cat litter, along with some pros and cons of each.

Clumping

This is one of the most common types of litter, and there are many companies that manufacture clumping litter.

Pros

• Clumping litter is readily available and can be purchased at any pet supply store as well as at most grocery stores.
• While not the least expensive option, there are brands of clumping cat litter that are very affordable.
• Unlike some other types of litter, you do not need to change the entire pan of litter every time you clean the box. Instead, you simply scoop out the waste and add a bit more litter to the box. You should, however, completely swap out the litter according to the frequency specified on the package.
• Most cats are willing to use this type of litter.

Cons

• Clumping litter is more expensive than clay cat litter.
• Some pet owners find that it tracks through the house.
• Some pet owners do not like the idea of not changing out the entire pan of litter each time they clean the box.

Clay/Non-Clumping

Pros

• This is the least expensive type of cat litter.
• It is available at most grocery stores and all pet supply stores will carry this type of litter as well.
• Some find clean up to be fairly easy as you simply dump the entire contents of the litter box into the trash, clean the box and replace with fresh litter.
• Most cats are willing to use this type of litter.

Cons

• Due to its fine texture, this type of litter tends to track throughout the house.
• Because you need to replace the entire contents of the litter box each time you clean it, most pet owners find that they need to keep a fairly large supply of clay cat litter on hand. This can be problematic for someone who may not be able to carry a 40 or 50 pound bag of litter.
• Some find that this type of litter is not as odor absorbent as other types of cat litter.

Reusable

Reusable litter is made up of small balls or pellets. They are placed in a special box where the litter is rinsed after each use.

Pros

• It provides a very sanitary type of litter box.
• Because it is self-cleaning, there is no scooping or changing litter necessary.

Cons

• The litter box for use with this litter is quite expensive. Most models cost between $250 and $300.
• Some cats do not like the texture of reusable litter, so they will refuse to use the box.
• Box needs to be placed in a location where it can be hooked up to a water line.

Pearls

Pearls are small round pellets that absorb moisture and odor.

Pros

• Pearls are very effective at odor control.
• If used and maintained properly, this type of litter is quite long lasting.
• There is no tracking of litter throughout the house.

Cons

• This is among the more expensive types of cat litter.
• Some cats will not be willing to use this kind of litter because the texture does not feel at all like the sand or dirt that they would use in nature.

Environmentally Friendly Litter

There are several forms of litter that are environmentally friendly. These include litter made from recycled paper, wheat, corn and wood.

Pros

• The texture of some of these litter options is similar to that of clay and clumping litter. That means that even picky cats will use them.
• For those who care deeply about the environment, the benefit is obvious.
• Most are very effective at absorbing odors and wetness.

Cons

• This type of litter tends to be a bit more expensive than some other options.
• Depending on the type that you choose, it may be hard to find. Not all pet supply stores will carry this kind of litter, so you may have to order your supply online.

It is best to stick to one type, rather than switching back and forth between different types of litter. The main reason is that your cat will get used to using a particular kind of litter. If you suddenly switch litters, it may cause him to stop using his box, at least for a while.

If you do want to switch the kind of litter that you use, it is best to do so gradually. Simply add a small amount of the new litter in with the old. After a day, add a little more of the new litter, while decreasing the amount of the old litter. Continue with this gradual transition until you are using only the new litter.

Be prepared for the possibility that the cat will reject the new litter outright, even if you introduce it gradually. This is particularly true if the litter is of a texture that is different from what the cat is used to using.

You can try to introduce the new litter, but if the cat does not want to use it, you may have to switch back.

If you have more than one cat, you should use the same type of litter for both cats, even if they have separate boxes. You do not want to do anything that may confuse the cats when it comes to their litter box.

Doing so many mean the cats will use the bathroom outside of the box, and that isn’t fun for anyone!

With so many types of cat litter available, it may seem like choosing one could be difficult. There is no one “right” cat litter. Just use the one that works best for you and for your cat.

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While some cat owners have resigned themselves to the belief that such destruction of property is just part of cat ownership, others have sought ways to put an end to the damage.

Replacing a piece of furniture is not cheap, but it’s far easier than replacing a room full of carpet. However, there is something about carpet that many cats find simply irresistible. As they saunter from room to room, each step reminds them that, right below their feet, is an endless supply of scratching delight.

It must be terribly hard to resist because most cats don’t even bother trying. Instead, they pick a spot or two and let the destruction begin. Some cat owners focus on trying to get their cats to stop scratching completely, but that’s never going to happen. Scratching is natural and necessary for cats, so trying to stop the behavior altogether is a waste of time.

Instead, try to encourage your cat to scratch in appropriate locations, such as on their scratching post.

There are four main reasons why cats scratch

1. Keep Claws Sharp
It’s important for a cat to keep their claws sharp and healthy. This is one of the main functions of scratching.

2. Mark Territory
Cats’ feet have scent glands that, thankfully, humans cannot smell. These scent glands are left behind wherever a cat scratches, letting other cats know who has been there.

This explains why cats will nap in their favorite spot on the sofa and, before hopping down, give the spot a good scratch. The cat is simply letting everyone know, “Hey, this is my spot.”

3. Release Energy
Scratching is a form of mild exercise for cats. It helps them relax and burns off excess energy.

4. It’s Fun
Scratching just feels good to cats. If you don’t believe it, just notice that when your cat scratches, they’re often purring at the same time.

Now that you know why cats scratch, it should be clear why trying to “train” them to stop scratching is not a good idea. Instead, provide them with a place to scratch that is acceptable to both you and your cat. Doing this will help keep your cat from scratching the carpet.

The Perfect Scratching Post

For most cats, not just any scratching post will do. There are several factors to consider when shopping for the perfect scratching post.

1. Texture
While your cat might enjoy scratching your carpet, it is actually not the best material for scratching. As mentioned earlier, one reason cats need to scratch is to keep their claws sharp. That’s why a rough surface, such as sisal or cardboard, is ideal. This isn’t to say that carpet-covered scratching posts should be completely avoided, as many cats love that texture. Just be sure to also provide a rougher surface as well.

2. Size
The size of the scratching post depends on many factors, including how much available space you have in your home. Just keep in mind that your cat should be able to fully extend their body while scratching. As long as the post is long or tall enough to accommodate a full-body stretch, it will work.

3. Stability
What do you think would happen if, the first time your cat tried to use the scratching post, it fell over and scared the daylights out of them? Of course, the answer is that your cat would never go within ten feet of that scratching post again. That’s why it’s important to make sure the scratching post is very stable before introducing your cat to it.

Another thing to consider is that it’s a good idea to have scratching posts in every room where your cat spends a lot of time. It’s fine to have one where they sleep, but if your cat naps in the living room, the carpet will look just as appealing as the scratching post. By keeping one in every room, you increase the chances that they will use the post and leave the carpet and furniture alone.

What About Having My Cat Declawed?
Declawing is as acceptable an idea as cutting off your fingers at the second knuckle. Don’t do it. Some people think that declawing a cat is similar to trimming a person’s nails. This is not the case. Claws are not just “tails”; they are an important part of a cat’s anatomy. A declawed cat will have issues with balance and mobility. Additionally, many declawed cats suffer from behavioral and emotional problems.

Declawing is cruel and unnecessary. It should be completely removed as an option.

Getting your cat to stop scratching the carpet will take some time and patience. But once your cat adjusts to using scratching posts to satisfy their scratching urges, your carpet and furniture will be safe, and your cat will have a perfect spot to scratch to their heart’s content.

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First of all, catnip is an herb. Not necessarily an herb that you want to mix into the spaghetti sauce, but its usefulness in the human world is exactly what made it quite so obvious that it also had a usefulness in the feline world. A perennial, which means it pops up year after year for all you brown thumbs out there, which is technically known by its Latin name, Nepeta cataria and produces an aroma that cats are strongly attracted to. It can be quite the source of entertainment to watch a kitten with their first ball of catnip. However, don’t be too disappointed if your kitty just treats their specially designed catnip toy like all his other toys. Not all cats lose their minds. In fact, only about 30% of all the kitties in the United States and Canada completely forget their manners in the face of catnip.

Catnip has been proven useful in the human world. It has some interesting health properties that are unique and some say overwhelmingly remarkable. Soft tissue infections caused by specific agents such as Staphylococcus aureus have been proven to respond to catnip. Toxic Shock Syndrome, a serious illness caused by leaving a tampon in for too long causing a serious infection, has also been known to respond well to catnip as a treatment. It can double as a sleep aid or an antifungal agent. Scientists and experimental herbalists are now trying it out as a natural insect repellant with some success.

Catnip is a hairy plant that is related to mint. Enthusiasts of the herb can grow it in their windowsills in little herb pots if they wish, purchase it from the store in a dried form, or of course, buy the toys stuffed with it to be discovered in a sudden moment of euphoric serendipity. The herb was originally native to Eurasia, and what makes cats so bitey for the nip is actually an oil secreted by the plant. This is why cats seem to go a little more ga—ga over the fresh version as opposed to the dry version. Technically speaking, there is enough of this precious oil remaining in the dried version to have an impact until the cat experiences the fresh stuff. Then watch out.

So, what is catnip to cats? For some, it’s really not much. But for those who find it intoxicating, it is the equivalent to chocolate made from real chocolate or a bottle of the world’s best ranked wine for the connoisseur. It is completely and totally that absolute most precious delight that makes your cat dream pleasant dreams and make nice with the entire family. It is that one moment of absolute bliss amidst an otherwise ordinary day. For cats who respond to catnip, there is little else that can compete with it. In fact, a few informal studies were conducted that proved a cat’s preference to catnip over just about anything. Cats were given choices between catnip and their food, catnip and broiled fish, and even catnip and chicken livers. 93% of the cats involved chose the catnip over everything else. This in itself is a pretty strong testimony straight from the mouths of kitties.

Despite its association with marijuana, which was dubbed by people with a particular fondness for the drug by the way, catnip is not a drug. In fact, it doesn’t affect a cat the way a drug would. Drugs work through receptors in the brain while catnip stimulates olfactory responses in cats. When Fluffy is hurtling himself about and acting as though you just injected him with a Super Steroid, he is really just a bit…aroused. Catnip gives off a synthetic pheromone that some cats just find completely dandy. Not all cats will respond to this particular pheromone, just like not all people respond to the same pheromones. Some cats will find it relaxing, which is why people decide that cats can become “stoned” from catnip. They are not stoned. They are satiated and calm, like their mother just paid them a visit and rocked them into a comforting state with her sweet perfume providing the best comfort in the world, despite the fact that they are in fact 36 years old.

Catnip can elicit a grand response from some cats, but just like all other primal sexual urges, cats can not maintain this level of excitement indefinitely. After about 5 to 15 minutes, the cat will begin to lose interest, and their arousal can not be once again piqued for at least an hour, sometimes 24.

So, what is catnip? It’s just an herb. It’s an absolutely wonderfully amusing herb delight for kitties who are in need of a little jousting in their day. It is not habit forming, addictive, mind altering, or otherwise related to controlled substances. Catnip can be used by humans for specific ailments and illnesses, and it is also used in certain spells of practicing witches. However, those spells are guarded rather heavily and we are not clear on which ones they are used.

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Fortunately, through careful treatment and management, cats with diabetes can go on to live happy, normal lives. Quick diagnosis, aggressive early management, and especially the use of special diets for diabetic cats mean that many diagnosed with diabetes can be easily managed, and in some cases, may even go into diabetic remission.

Understanding Diabetes in Cats

Approximately 80% of cats that develop diabetes will have type-2 or sugar diabetes. In humans and animals alike, diabetes is characterized by the inability of the hormone insulin to balance glucose levels in the blood.

The food animals ingest is converted into glucose in the body, traveling through the bloodstream to feed cells and create energy. Insulin acts as the vehicle that allows cells to absorb energy from the bloodstream. Under normal circumstances, after glucose enters the body, cells in the pancreas release insulin, which is then distributed to cells throughout the body, allowing them to “capture” glucose for their own use.

The pancreas is responsible for producing just enough insulin to maintain a careful balance of glucose levels in the blood, preventing them from rising too high (hyperglycemia) or too low (hypoglycemia). However, in animals with type-2 diabetes, the body’s cells stop responding correctly to insulin. This results in excessively high blood glucose levels, as the body is unable to process the excess glucose.

The early signs of diabetes in cats include weight loss, an increased or even voracious appetite, and increased water consumption and urination. As the inability to process glucose progresses, the brain sends signals to eat more, attempting to take in more glucose. Blood glucose levels rise but cannot be utilized due to the lack of insulin, leading the starved cells to break down fat and muscle protein for conversion into sugars by the liver. As this cycle continues, excess glucose leaks into the urinary tract, drawing water from cells and causing frequent urination, which leads to a constant state of dehydration despite increased water intake.

Diagnosis and Treatment

Your veterinarian can diagnose diabetes based on a physical exam and a description of your cat’s recent behavior and clinical signs. Most importantly, blood and urine samples help make a definitive diagnosis and allow treatment to begin.

Treatment for diabetes is multifaceted and often relies on a combination of long-lasting insulin injections, specially prepared diets for diabetic cats, and careful monitoring of blood levels.

Diets for diabetic cats are the cornerstone of managing feline diabetes. Research has shown a link between the development of diabetes in cats and regular commercially prepared dry-food diets. Dry food typically contains high levels of carbohydrates, which can flood the pancreas over time with a constant high-sugar intake. By feeding a low-carbohydrate diet, the amount of insulin needed is reduced, and blood-sugar level variations are kept small and predictable.

Your veterinarian can help you select an appropriate low-carbohydrate diet for your cat. While canned, low-carbohydrate preparations are preferable (canned foods naturally have lower levels of carbs than dry foods and higher levels of digestible protein), cats that refuse wet food can be fed specially prepared prescription dry food diets. Diets containing between 3% and 9% of their calories from carbohydrates are recommended as the best choice for managing diabetic cats.

In addition to helping regulate blood sugar levels and reduce insulin requirements, lower-carb diets will aid overweight cats in losing weight. Many diabetic cats are overweight, and reducing their weight to a more normal level can have numerous health benefits, both directly and indirectly related to diabetes.

Diabetic cats should be fed only their prescribed diet, without additional treats or food changes. Once a diabetic cat is regulated on a specific food, changing that food can completely alter their insulin requirements. Therefore, it is essential that a management program ensures the diet of a diabetic cat is the only one fed.

A stable diet is especially important for the second phase of treatment—insulin injections. While a small number of cats may be controlled with diet changes alone, most require supplemental insulin to regulate their blood levels. Typically, a single slow-acting dose of insulin, administered via injection twice daily along with the special diet, will help maintain optimal blood sugar levels throughout the day.

While the prospect of giving insulin injections to your cat can be daunting, your veterinarian will demonstrate the proper method and location for the injection, helping you feel comfortable with the procedure before doing it at home. Most cats do not even notice the tiny insulin needle, making drug administration relatively easy.

Finding a balance between diet and insulin dosages can be the trickiest part of managing a newly diagnosed diabetic. Your veterinarian may run several “glucose curve” tests, where blood sugar levels are monitored at various points throughout the day to ensure they are not dipping too low or spiking too high after meals or insulin injections. You may be asked to test your cat’s urine at home periodically with Keto-sticks, which can indicate excessive glucose in the urine, a sign of uncontrolled diabetes.

Often, effective diabetes management can be achieved in just a few weeks. Once the diabetes is well controlled, monitoring blood work may only be needed every six months or so to ensure insulin requirements remain stable and to check for any issues with the cat’s other body systems (kidneys, liver, etc.).

Although a diagnosis of diabetes in your cat can be intimidating, by working closely with your vet to establish a treatment plan, your cat can continue to live a long and virtually normal life, unaffected by diabetes. With the right insulin and diets for diabetic cats, diabetes can be managed and, in some cases, even reversed.

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