Before diving in, it’s worth noting that many owners start researching tools like shock collars for dogs when they struggle with training challenges. While these devices can be part of a broader behaviour-management strategy, it’s essential to understand core training principles first to avoid relying too heavily on quick fixes.

Here are the biggest mistakes new pet owners make—and how to avoid them.

Inconsistent Commands and Rules

One of the fastest ways to confuse a pet is inconsistency. If one family member allows the dog on the couch while another tells them off for it, your pet receives mixed messages. Animals thrive when boundaries are clear, predictable and reinforced the same way every time.

How to fix it:

• Agree on household rules upfront.
• Use the same commands for key behaviours (e.g., “sit” instead of sometimes “sit down”).
• Reinforce behaviours consistently with rewards or redirection.

Expecting Results Too Quickly

Training takes time—sometimes more than you think. Puppies, for example, have short attention spans and can easily get overwhelmed. Rescue pets may need time to decompress before they can even begin learning new routines.

How to fix it:

• Break training into short, fun sessions.
• Celebrate incremental improvements.
• Understand that progress isn’t linear; setbacks are normal.

Using Punishment Instead of Positive Reinforcement

Many new owners instinctively respond to unwanted behaviour with punishment—raising their voice, yanking a lead or isolating the pet. Not only is this ineffective, but it can also damage trust.

How to fix it:

• Reward the behaviour you want rather than punishing what you don’t.
• Use treats, praise, play or access to favourite toys.
• Redirect unwanted behaviour calmly and consistently.

Socialising Too Late (or Too Little)

Socialisation is critical during a puppy or kitten’s development. Missing this window can lead to anxiety, reactivity or fear-based behaviour later on.

How to fix it:

• Introduce your pet to a variety of safe environments, animals and people early.
• Keep experiences positive and low-pressure.
• For older rescue pets, socialise gradually with patience and care.

Forgetting That Pets Need Mental Stimulation

Boredom is one of the biggest drivers of destructive or unwanted behaviours. Pets—especially intelligent breeds—need enrichment, not just exercise.

How to fix it:

• Rotate puzzle toys, chew items and enrichment games.
• Teach new tricks regularly; it challenges their brain and strengthens your bond.
• Provide daily exercise suited to their age and breed.

Ignoring Body Language

Animals constantly communicate through posture, tail position, facial expression and energy levels. Many behavioural issues escalate simply because the early warning signs were missed.

How to fix it:

• Learn the basics of pet body language.
• Watch for stress signals such as lip-licking, yawning, pacing or avoidance.
• Respond early by offering space, reassurance or redirection.

Not Setting Up the Right Environment

Training becomes much harder when the environment works against you. For example, trying to teach recall in a busy dog park is a recipe for frustration.

How to fix it:

• Begin training in quiet, distraction-free spaces.
• Gradually introduce new challenges as your pet becomes more confident.
• Use tools such as baby gates, crates or designated training zones.

Skipping Professional Help When It’s Needed

There’s no shame in needing guidance. Many behavioural challenges—even mild ones—can benefit from early support from a trainer, behaviourist or vet.

How to fix it:

• Book a session with a reputable positive-reinforcement trainer.
• Seek advice early before habits become entrenched.
• If behaviour changes suddenly, consult your vet to rule out medical causes.

Ready to get started?

Training a new pet is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have—but it takes patience, consistency and understanding. Avoiding these common mistakes sets the foundation for a calm, confident and well-adjusted companion. With the right techniques, a supportive environment and a focus on positive reinforcement, you’ll build a strong bond that lasts a lifetime.

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According to Dogs Trust, the cost of living crisis is hitting dog owners across the UK hard. Meanwhile, adoption numbers are falling as people tighten their belts in the face of a potential housing crisis, deciding that they simply cannot afford to take on a new dog.

Interest rate hikes and soaring energy prices have triggered inflation, with the cost of essentials like filling fuel tanks, heating homes and even just eating skyrocketing. Against this backdrop, not only are many families deciding against getting a dog but existing pet owners are struggling to provide for their beloved pets. Because of this, Dogs Trusts reports that it has received an unprecedented number of enquiries from pet owners who have run out of options and are desperate for help.

In July 2022, Dogs Trust reports that it received 4,370 enquiries from dog owners facing the prospect of giving up their dog in that month alone, representing the highest level since its records began. In the face of a huge increase in the cost of everyday living, record numbers of dog owners are struggling to care for their dogs. They are now finding that they can no longer afford the bare necessities of pet ownership, such as vets bills and even just pet food, which have increased significantly in price.

A YouGov poll of UK dog owners revealed that a staggering 48% agreed that they would find giving their dog all they needed more difficult compared to before the cost-of-living crisis. 48% of dog owners cited vet bills as their biggest pet-related financial concern for the coming year, with 23% most worried about dog food and 14% naming insurance as their biggest worry. Meanwhile, 61% of non-dog owners agreed that the rising cost of living would prevent them from buying or adopting a dog.

Owen Sharp is the CEO of Dogs Trust. He points out that the UK is heading towards a situation in which it will have a surplus of dogs. Nevertheless, with a deficit in people who can afford to give a home to a new dog, the outlook appears bleak. Mr Sharp said that although the charity could not promise miracles, Dogs Trust is always there to listen without judgement, talking through the options and giving dog owners the benefit of its knowledge.

Rising to this huge challenge, Dogs Trust is supporting dog owners, helping however it can during this difficult time. The charity has opened pet food banks at many of its rehoming centres to support people struggling to feed their dog. In addition, Dogs Trust is also supporting owners with discounted behaviour training, providing subsidised classes for those who need help with their dog’s behaviour or training and need financial assistance. Dogs Trust has made an urgent appeal to people with space in their homes for dogs that find it more difficult to find a home, such as dogs that are not house trained, big dogs and dogs with challenging behaviour.

The Dogs Trust Pet Food Bank scheme is operational at many rehoming centres, helping those who are struggling to feed their dogs. Dogs Trust Pet Food Bank locations include:

• Ballymena –  Northern Ireland
• Glasgow – Scotland
• Cardiff – Wales
• Basildon and Colchester – Essex
• Canterbury and Maidstone – Kent
• Darlington – County Durham
• Harefield – London
• Lewknor – Oxfordshire
• Merseyside – Liverpool
• Newbury – Berkshire
• Penrith – Cumbria
• Salisbury – Wiltshire
• Snetterton – Norfolk
• Shoreham –  West Sussex

In order to support dog owners struggling with the current economic climate, Dogs Trust recently called upon the UK government to pause VAT on both vet services and pet food. Dogs Trust’s ‘Paws the VAT’ campaign calls for VAT exemption on all pet food and veterinary services and medicines for a 12-month period in order to ease financial pressures on pet owners and help more dogs stay with their loving families where they belong.

Dogs Trust warns that, with prices rapidly increasing, the UK is heading towards an animal welfare crisis, with 31% of dog owners worried about the cost of caring for their pet in the coming year. 54% of respondents agreed that managing vet bills would ease their concerns about taking care of their dog, while 43% said that removing VAT on pet food would help.

Inundated with desperate calls from dog owners struggling to provide for their pet, Dogs Trust has called upon the UK Government to take urgent action. The charity received more than 50,000 enquiries from owners who could no longer afford to take care of their pets in 2022 and warns that this devastating situation could get worse if the government does not take urgent action.

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Dogs’ poor short-term memory can significantly impact their daily lives, especially when their humans come home after a long day at work only to find that Rover has chewed up a good shoe or a couch pillow. It may be tempting to punish Rover for his misdeed, but unless you catch him in the act, he’ll have no idea why he’s being punished. Instead, he may come to associate the punishment with your arrival home from work. This could leave him confused, stressed, and fearful of you. You certainly don’t want that!

Long-Term Memory: Emotional Associations and Impressions

Long-term memory, often referred to as “associative” or “imprint” memory, is indefinite. This is where dogs “remember” the room in the house where they are most likely to receive a treat or associate your putting on a specific pair of shoes or coat with going for a walk. Scientists believe dogs can form long-term memories based on a variety of experiences, but those with highly positive or negative connotations tend to stand out the most.

“Important events, such as those related to food and survival, and events with emotional impact, are more likely to be stored in long-term memory,” says Claudia Fugazza, a researcher at the Department of Ethology at Eötvös Loránd University in Budapest.

The timing of experiences is also crucial for the formation of long-term memories. Puppies are most impressionable between 3 and 12 weeks of age. “Puppies and kittens both go through a rapid learning phase early in life, where they form memories that influence their behavior for the rest of their lives,” explains Dr. Kersti Seksel, a registered veterinary specialist in behavioral medicine at Sydney Animal Behaviour Service in Australia. “During this period, it’s vital to expose them to proper socialization, training, and conditioning.”

It’s also possible to help a dog transform a negative long-term memory into a positive one, according to one veterinarian. For example, if we respond to our dog’s stress at the vet clinic by becoming anxious ourselves, “the memory of the building, the smells, and the people in that building will forever be scary.” To address this, the vet suggests periodic “happy visits” to the clinic, where the dog receives a treat, some love, or simply comes in and leaves without any stress. This approach has led to complete turnarounds in the demeanor and behavior of many dogs.

What’s most important to remember about our dogs and their memories is that they don’t remember the way humans do. They probably don’t recall the day you brought them home or the day you rescued them from the shelter. Their only lasting memory of the shelter may be an anxiety around cages. Their short-term, or “working,” memory is inadequate for remembering events like tearing into the garbage while you were away. Therefore, punishing them for such actions makes no sense, as they won’t understand the reason behind it. With a short-term memory span of just 70 seconds, you must catch them in the act for any punishment to make sense.

What is clear, however, is that dogs remember YOU, they love you, and they look to you for guidance, safety, security, and that love that only you can provide.

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The Labrador is so dominant in our culture that nearly any short haired medium sized black dog is deemed a “Lab cross”. By the standard they actually are 22-1/2 to 24-1/2 inches at the shoulder, with females slightly smaller, and weigh 65-80 pounds.

This is a breed that was developed to work. The extreme variety of work they have eagerly taken on and learned is a testimony to the breeding for function. A short, dense, hard coat allows the breed to work in all types of weather. Black, yellow or chocolate is the accepted colors, with a distinct thick tail that isn’t like any other breed. The purebred labrador is a square, stocky dog that has the image of power, a dog that moves freely without being too heavy.

The typical Labrador enjoys being outside with people, and especially is drawn to water. This is instinctive as they have long been used for retreiving waterfowl for hunters, and further back than that were developed for water work.

The breed was developed for work in harsh, wet climates assisting with fishing nets on boats. Their love of water and retrieving meant they were also eager to get birds downed by hunters. The Lab of today traces back to pedigrees in 1878. The breed itself goes back further, but in their native Newfoundland they nearly became extinct due to dog taxes, quarantine laws and crossbreeding. The AKC first recognized the breed in 1917.

A relatively small section of the breed is maintained as show dogs – for those interested in the physical standard it can be found at the AKC – but for many the real value in the breed comes in their training and versatility.

The Labrador excels at a wide variety of duties and activities. A few of these include: Search and Rescue, search K-9, service dogs, seeing eye dogs, hunting dogs,carting, tracking, a wide variety of dog sports and of course family pets.

The Labrador is a friendly dog that loves people and is eager to be active. Some of the more “hyper” dogs that have been holy terrors in the home were bored – and given active jobs of search dogs became wonderful companions also. They love to play but take discipline and strict handling.

From a young age teach your Labrador not to pull on the leash – when he gets big his powerful neck can make for some uncomfortable experiences and unpleasant walks. Labs are highly intelligent, and can be quite dominant in attitude. As puppies they need structure and training as they can be incredibly destructive without it. They are lively and play hard.

Generally speaking the Lab lives 10-12 years with good care. Their negative qualities of dominance, somewhat exhuberant and active can be molded into good things.

Lab heroes are many. Jake, found wandering and injured as young adult, became a certified rescue dog, on call to respond to disasters of all kinds. From work as a certified therapy dog to working the rubble of the World Trade Center and the remains of Hurricane Katrina, Jake was an inspiration. When he died at age 12 from cancer in July 2007 it made national news.

More recently, a Labrador bit the foot of his young owner, home with a friend and sleeping in a basement bedroom, until they woke up. He is credited with saving their lives as upstairs part of the home was on fire.

A K-9 search dog was called in following a warehouse fire. It was suspected there was someone inside the building but the task was incredible, with six feet of ash. “Ruger” located the spot the remains were and confirmed a homeless man was in the building.

While detection dogs are often associated with narcotic dogs there are many other things the Labrador is trained to find. Explosives, illegal wildlife, propane leaks, accelerant (helpful in arson fires), and many other things can be taught to a search dog. Dogs have even walked the crowd at a fire and found the arsonist by alerting on the ignitable liquids present on clothing and hands but undetected by humans.

The Guide Dogs for the Blind Association uses almost exclusively Labradors and German Shepherds for their training and work. These dogs are large enough to lead but small enough to lay under the table in restaurants or in other public places. Temperament, intelligence and versatility are hallmarks of these dogs, which also are factors the Labrador has, making them ideal for the work.

There are other types of hearing dogs. Hearing and signal dogs alert the owner to a doorbell, telephone, smoke alarm and other things the person may not hear. Other dogs accompany their owners, picking up things that are dropped, opening and closing doors and if needed pulling wheelchairs.

Therapy dogs and seizure alert dogs are but two more ways these dogs serve humans. These every day heroes in many facets of service are often seen and misunderstood. They are pets but first and formost they are working dogs. Don’t pet or feed a working service dog without expressed permission.

Even the “ordinary” Labrador can easily be taught many useful tasks without being a full-fledged service dog. One helps an unsteady owner by bracing while she steadies herself after standing.

An ideal outlet for the Labrador is as a hunter, something they excel at. Swimming into the water to bring back ducks is a skill they can do, and the “soft” mouth does so without harming the feathers, skin or meat of the duck.

Because of their love of water, dogs that have access to it should be watched for water getting in the ear and causing problems. The condition of these dogs, because they are stocky anyway, should be monitored closely to keep them from being too fat or too thin.

Unfortunately, like all dogs, Labradors are susceptible to health issues. When purchasing a pup keep in mind the breed is prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, PRA and other eye disorders. Clean lines from healthy stock makes a big difference. They have a tendency to gain too much weight, something that needs closely monitored. Dwarfism, muscle myopathy and hypothyroidism also can affect the breed.

Genetic testing of the parents makes a difference as many issues are genetic. A litter of 7-8 puppies is not unusual and up to 10 is possible. For this reason be very careful when breeding and do so only to improve the breed, with a goal in mind.

Some pet food companies have a dog food formulated for the specific needs of the Labrador, marketed as a breed based food.

There are many reasons the Labrador is the #1 dog, but the myriad of tasks they do, the trainability and intelligence and their adapting to so many situations are but a few. They’re a great dog for an active family. They can easily be a seasonal hunter, a family pet and a household assistance dog.

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Simply put, static electricity is caused by the buildup of electrons on an object. When two objects with different charges come into contact, electrons transfer from one material to the other. This movement of electrons causes the static shock you experience.

On your pet, hair follicles repel each other when positive charges accumulate on the coat. Low-humidity environments (like a home heated in winter) can create ideal conditions for static electricity in your pet’s coat, leading to tangles and unintentional shocks when you touch them.

Get the Dry Out! A dry, low-humidity environment is the most favorable condition for static electricity. If you live in an area with cold winters, forced air heaters may be a part of your life for much of the year. While these heaters do a good job of keeping you warm, they also strip the air of the moisture needed to prevent excessive static electricity.

You can increase humidity in your home while staying warm by using a humidifier throughout the winter months. This will raise the moisture level in your home, helping to combat dry skin, scratchy throats, and reduce static electricity.

When you brush your dog, consider using a coat conditioner, detangler, or even a light mist of water to slightly dampen the coat before you begin. Adding moisture will reduce friction and help minimize static shocks during grooming.

After bathing your pet, use a dog-specific conditioner. This will help the hair retain moisture, making it more difficult for a static charge to accumulate.

Change Materials If your pet wears a sweater or jacket, ensure it is made of natural fibers. Synthetic materials tend to accumulate more static charge than natural fibers like cotton.

Remove Your Static If you frequently experience shocks while petting your dog, changing your clothing material may help reduce them. Since friction causes the buildup of static energy, walking on carpeted floors in socks or certain shoes can create static that discharges when you touch your pet. In cases where static is a major concern, consider wearing shoes designed to prevent static buildup.

In addition to keeping your dog’s coat moisturized, keeping your hands well-moisturized can also reduce static shocks. Regular lotion works well, as do specific static-reducing creams that can help minimize shocks.

Get Creative Many pet owners have found creative ways to reduce static in their pets’ coats. Using anti-static dryer sheets is a common method; rubbing one of these sheets over your dog’s coat can often reduce static, though it may only be a temporary solution and might need to be reapplied multiple times a day.

Some people have even resorted to using clothing anti-static spray on their pets. This is not recommended, as these products often contain ingredients that can be harmful or toxic to pets if ingested. In addition to making your dog sick, the aerosol nature of these sprays can trigger allergies and other issues.

Dealing with static and pets can be a tricky dilemma. Using a humidifier and adding moisture to your pet’s coat can be your best defense against static, ensuring you and your pet enjoy a less shocking relationship.

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Bleeding in the lower intestines, such as the colon and rectum, generally causes hematochezia. It is characterized by the presence of bright, fresh blood in the feces. Hematochezia should not be confused with melena, which refers to the passage of dark, tar-colored feces, caused by bleeding higher up in the intestinal tract.

If your cat has blood in its stool only once and otherwise appears to be eating, drinking, and acting normally, the cause may simply be a minor gastrointestinal upset. This could be due to overeating, eating unfamiliar food, or consuming something that doesn’t agree with them. Some cats are especially sensitive to stress, and any sudden environmental changes—such as adding a new pet, having a baby, or altering their routine—can induce colitis. Sudden changes in food brands can also cause this condition, as cats often require a gradual transition to avoid complications.

However, if your cat has repeated episodes of blood in the stool, appears lethargic or depressed, or the blood is accompanied by diarrhea or vomiting, it may indicate a more severe medical issue requiring veterinary attention.

Common Causes of Blood in Cat Stool

The most common cause of blood in the stool in cats is colitis, or inflammation of the colon. Colitis can be a symptom of various gastrointestinal disorders, and identifying the underlying cause of the inflammation can be challenging.

When colitis occurs, inflammation in the colon causes the cells in the intestinal lining to separate, becoming permeable and allowing water and secretions to leak out. Gut motility is affected, along with the colon’s ability to absorb water and store feces. This leads to frequent diarrhea, often with mucus and blood, as the food in the intestines passes through the colon before nutrients and water can be absorbed by the body.

Aside from blood in the stool, cats with colitis will defecate frequently, producing very little stool, and will strain repeatedly in the litterbox. Since the biggest complication of colitis is rapid dehydration, veterinary attention should be sought any time your cat has blood in its stool and diarrhea. Your veterinarian can treat the dehydration and help identify and treat the underlying causes.

Parasites are a common cause of colitis and bloody stools in kittens. Kittens typically acquire roundworms through the milk of an infected mother. Adult cats can acquire the parasite by eating a rodent or other animal that is infected. These long, spaghetti-like parasites can cause severe symptoms in young animals, including vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stools, and coughing and gagging. If left untreated, these worms can cause pneumonia, intestinal obstructions, and death.

Protozoa infections, such as Giardia and Coccidia, occur when a single-celled parasite is ingested via contaminated soil, food, or water. These parasites can cause a range of gastrointestinal issues, from an occasional bout of soft stools to a severe episode of vomiting, diarrhea, and hematochezia.

In unvaccinated cats and kittens, feline Panleukopenia can be a devastating disease. Also known as feline distemper, Panleukopenia is caused by the parvovirus and is highly contagious. It is particularly concerning in shelters, catteries, and boarding facilities where it can remain active and infectious in the environment for months or even years. This virus is especially dangerous to kittens whose immune systems are not fully developed, and it can cause a high fever, vomiting, nasal discharge, respiratory signs, diarrhea, hematochezia, dehydration, and death.

In older cats, one of the main concerns associated with hematochezia is inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). Cats with IBD develop a chronic level of inflammatory cells in their gastrointestinal tract, which can affect the mucosa of different areas: the small intestine (enteritis), colon (colitis), and stomach (gastritis).

Unlike colitis caused by temporary intestinal upsets, cats with IBD experience an ongoing inflammatory response in their intestines that does not resolve. The exact causes are unknown, but they have been linked to food sensitivities, bacteria in the intestinal tract, and immune system dysfunctions.

If left untreated, IBD can lead to poor digestion and nutrient absorption, as well as abdominal discomfort. Over time, the chronic inflammation can cause scarring of the mucosa, and studies have shown that this scarring often leads to the development of lymphoma, a type of cancer, in the intestines.

Blood in the stool can also be attributed to more external causes, such as trauma to the rectum, anal gland abscesses, or tumors and polyps in the rectum.

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Diarrhea is always a symptom of an underlying problem and not a disease in itself. It can range from occasional loose stools to a continuous watery stream of feces. Unfortunately, many potential causes exist, and determining the cause may require collaboration between you and your veterinarian.

One of the most common causes of diarrhea is intestinal upset. A sudden change in diet, an unfamiliar treat, or feeding table scraps can trigger diarrhea. If the diarrhea is not severe and your dog continues to feel and act normally, it can often be resolved at home. Withholding food for 24 hours allows the dog’s digestive system to settle (while ensuring continued water intake). After 24 hours, you can offer small amounts of a bland diet, such as white rice and chicken. If the diarrhea subsides, you can gradually reintroduce their original diet and transition slowly to the new one. However, if diarrhea does not improve or worsens, veterinary treatment may be required.

To avoid intestinal upsets from dietary changes, all food transitions should occur over several days, allowing your dog to adjust to the new food. For the first three days, feed ¼ of the new diet and ¾ of the old food. If your dog is doing well, continue with half of each for another three days, then transition to ¼ old food and ¾ new food for an additional three days. This gradual approach helps minimize intestinal upset and reduces the risk of diarrhea.

Although many dogs receive table scraps, care must be taken to ensure that human foods are not too rich for their systems. Fatty foods can cause diarrhea and vomiting, and may also lead to pancreatitis, an inflammation of the pancreas that can result in chronic digestive issues. Additionally, while dogs enjoy many types of meat we consume, the form they are accustomed to (in their dog food) is highly processed. Giving large amounts of meat from human plates can be too rich and cause diarrhea. It’s also crucial to remember that dogs should NEVER be given turkey or chicken bones, as these can splinter and puncture the stomach and intestines.

Intestinal Parasites Can Cause Diarrhea in Dogs

Intestinal parasites are a common cause of diarrhea in dogs. Various types of parasites can infect dogs, and diarrhea is often one of the most frequent symptoms of such infections.

Roundworms are among the most commonly seen intestinal parasites in puppies. Although roundworms are not typically active in most adult dogs, puppies are particularly susceptible to their presence and effects. Dogs ingest roundworm eggs from contaminated soil, and puppies can receive them from their mothers. As the eggs hatch in the intestine, the larvae are carried to the lungs via the bloodstream. From the lungs, the worms crawl up the windpipe, causing gagging and coughing before returning to the intestine to mature. Roundworms can grow up to seven inches long and appear spaghetti-like—long and thin. Signs of infestation include a pot-bellied appearance, poor growth, and a rough, dull coat. Diarrhea and vomiting may also occur, and the dog may expel worms in their stool or vomit. If unchecked, these worms can lead to pneumonia, intestinal obstructions, and death.

Hookworms can affect dogs of all ages but are most common in warmer, humid climates. They are transmitted through the ingestion of contaminated feces. Mature hookworms attach to the intestinal lining and feed on the blood supply. In pregnant dogs, hookworms can migrate into the fetuses, infesting the puppies even before birth. Hookworms can be particularly devastating for puppies, leading to severe anemia, weakness, and bloody diarrhea.

While not a worm, Giardia is an intestinal parasite caused by a single-celled organism that resides in the intestines of infected animals. Recent research shows that Giardia is present in up to 11% of the general pet population and as many as 50% of puppies. It can be transmitted from pet to pet, through contaminated feed or water, and through soil. Pets who frequent dog parks, doggy daycare, or kennels are at a higher risk for infection. The most common symptom of Giardia is diarrhea of varying severity, although many infected animals may show no symptoms for extended periods, making routine testing vital.

Coccidia is another single-celled organism that infects the small intestine of dogs. Some dogs with coccidia show no signs of illness, while others may experience severe bouts of watery stools and bloody diarrhea, vomiting, depression, fever, and even death due to severe dehydration. These serious side effects are most common in puppies and adult dogs suffering from other illnesses.

Diarrhea in puppies is particularly concerning, as it is often the first symptom of severe and potentially fatal viral diseases such as parvovirus, coronavirus, and distemper.

Parvovirus is most commonly found in young, unvaccinated dogs or those who have not completed their vaccination series. The virus attacks and kills the cells in the intestinal lining, preventing the dog from absorbing nutrients and liquids. Dogs with parvo typically develop a high fever, lethargy, and loss of appetite. Profuse, liquid diarrhea occurs as intestinal damage progresses, and the stool may be foul-smelling or contain blood. This condition can lead to severe dehydration, shock, and death, often proving fatal even with aggressive treatment. Vaccination is the best prevention against parvo.

Like parvo, the coronavirus is a highly contagious virus that causes gastrointestinal issues. While adult dogs may experience mild symptoms and recover within days without treatment, puppies can develop far more serious infections and complications. Signs of coronavirus are similar to parvo, including profuse watery diarrhea, which, if left untreated, can cause severe dehydration and secondary complications.

Canine distemper virus is a devastating, highly contagious disease that primarily affects unvaccinated dogs and puppies. The virus typically targets the brain, intestinal tract, and upper respiratory system. A high fever is usually the first sign of infection, accompanied by coughing, sneezing, and green nasal discharge. As the virus progresses, it affects the intestinal tract, causing vomiting and dark, tarry diarrhea. Eventually, the virus can travel to the brain and spinal cord, leading to seizures and uncontrollable twitching.

There is no cure for distemper; medical treatment focuses on controlling symptoms and supporting the dog’s body during the infection. Even with aggressive treatment, distemper is often fatal, and survivors may suffer lifelong neurological issues. Vaccination is the best way to prevent distemper.

Other causes of acute diarrhea in dogs can include bacterial infections (such as salmonella and E. coli), toxin exposure (from insecticides and lead), and even stress.

Treatment for acute diarrhea in dogs focuses on diagnosing and correcting the underlying issue. If your dog has had loose stools for less than 24 hours but is otherwise acting normally (with a normal energy level and eating and drinking normally), you may choose a conservative approach and monitor their condition. However, if your dog shows any additional signs of distress or has had increasing amounts of diarrhea for any length of time, a visit to the veterinarian is required.

Your veterinarian will take a full history of your dog’s condition, including when the diarrhea first started and any possible precipitating factors. After a comprehensive physical exam, your veterinarian may recommend:

Fecal testing: A sample of the diarrhea will be obtained and checked for evidence of parasites such as roundworms and coccidia. An antigen test may also be performed on the fecal sample to check for Giardia.

Fecal cultures may be recommended to test for the presence of bacteria in the stool, such as salmonella.

Blood work: Blood chemistry tests assess various body systems and provide insights into the health of your dog’s major organs, such as the kidneys and liver. A complete blood count (CBC) evaluates the components of your dog’s blood, including red and white blood cells and platelets. The CBC can help diagnose or rule out infection as a potential cause of your dog’s diarrhea.

Parvo test: In puppies, a parvovirus antigen test may be performed. This quick “snap” test uses a small sample of feces, with results typically available within minutes. The sooner parvo is diagnosed and treated, the better the chance of a favorable outcome for your puppy.

X-rays: Radiographs of your dog’s abdomen may be recommended to rule out potential intestinal obstructions or foreign bodies that may have been ingested.

Treatment for your dog’s diarrhea will depend on what your vet suspects might be causing it. In cases of intestinal upset, a bland diet may be all that’s needed to settle

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Contrary to the long-standing belief that barking is simply a response to boredom, current research shows that it is a specific form of communication used by dogs, along with body language and olfactory (smell) signals. There are several types of barks, each with a distinct sound and purpose.

Types of Barking and Their Causes

Warning barks are the most common type of barking, and most people encourage and accept this type of barking. These barks are meant to alert others to potential danger or a suspicious person. As a person approaches, warning barks may become more rapid and forceful. Aggressive barks are similar to warning barks but tend to be lower in pitch and are often accompanied by growling.

A dog stuck outside will commonly voice its concern through isolation barks. These barks are usually higher-pitched than warning barks and often occur as single barks in an increasingly insistent tone, as if to say, “Remember me? I’m OUT HERE!”

In addition, dogs have different types of barks for play, boredom, fear, and anxiety. While this barking is all part of normal behavior, some dogs are more frequent and excessive barkers than others, and this can often become a serious training issue.

In moderation, all of the above types of barking are perfectly normal. However, excessive barking can become a pathological problem for your dog, leading to obsessive-compulsive behavior, which can disrupt your home, your community, and even endanger your dog’s life if ignored.

The first step to curb excessive barking is to rule out possible underlying medical causes. Dogs who bark excessively may be suffering from separation anxiety, cognitive disorders, chronic diseases, or pain. These problems typically cause the dog to feel more anxious and restless, making them more likely to respond vocally to stimuli. Older dogs, in particular, may begin to suffer from neurological changes, hearing and vision loss, more frequent trips to relieve themselves, and discomfort—all of which may make them more prone to vocalizing.

Genetics can also play a part in excessive barking. Breeds such as hounds, dogs bred as watchdogs, and many working breeds are more prone to excessive barking.

Once medical causes have been ruled out, it’s important to examine the dog’s living situation to identify obvious causes of the barking that could be altered to provide fewer stimuli. For instance, a dog that sits by a window all day and barks at passing people might be easily remedied by installing a set of curtains. If your dog barks while outside and you are gone for the day, try changing their scenery by bringing them inside or finding a quieter indoor area to confine them with fewer distractions. Dogs left outside in the yard tend to bark more in response to boredom and loneliness, so increasing your interaction with them and going for more frequent walks can help satisfy their needs and curb the barking.

Behavior modification aims to address the underlying causes of the behavior while changing the dog’s response to stimuli through positive reinforcement. Consulting with a dog trainer or behaviorist will greatly increase your chances of success with behavior modification. It is easiest to accomplish with younger dogs that are still more trainable, and investing in proper training while they are young will improve your relationship in the long run.

A more severe form of behavior modification involves anti-bark collars, which use negative reinforcement to teach the dog not to bark. These collars come in two basic forms. The electrical stimulation collar automatically delivers a small shock to the dog when he barks. If the barking continues, the strength of the shock is increased until the barking stops. Because the collar is automated, you do not need to be present for it to correct your dog’s behavior. When your dog is quiet, no correction occurs.

Citronella collars are similar to electrical stimulation collars, but instead of a shock, they deliver a sudden mist of herbal spray into the dog’s face. Because dogs naturally have an aversion to citronella, they learn to avoid the correction by reducing their barking.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often bark excessively and may not respond as well to behavior modification and training as other dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend medication to reduce anxiety, in addition to behavior modification exercises, to make your dog more comfortable.

Although excessive barking can be one of the most frustrating and disruptive habits to curb, a careful approach using a combination of training, behavior modification, and potentially training aids or medication can help reduce your dog’s barking, restoring peace to your household.

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The situation may be brought on by a trip to the vet or a front door left open, but the worst of nightmares begins when a beloved four pawed family member escapes or goes missing. If you have never encountered this situation, the experience can be quite a shock. For many of us it can be paralyzing at a time when we need to be on our best game. It is a time for action when you may feel the need to curl up and just cry. Below is a list of the most immediate activities to pursue when first you realize your cat has escaped or is missing.

First Response Protocol…

A step by step list

Relax and don’t panic… but also don’t wait to start looking. Statistics prove that pet owners with the greatest likelyhood of recovering their pet start looking immediately and have an organized approach. Be one of these pet owners.

Ground Zero Property Search: Make sure your pet is really missing. If you did not see him or her escape or do not know of anyone who did, take the time to do a quick search of your property and the most obvious hiding spots before bolting for the front door to look. With cats you need to take a little longer with your ground zero property search as a cat that is feeling poorly can be right inside the house hunkered down and feeling miserable. Think dark and concealed spots that are out of the everyday traffic pattern of your home or property. Check your home, yards, garage, outbuildings, shed, barns, etc.

Preparing to search:

What to bring: You can gather this in 5 minutes or less. A better idea is to have all of this prepared ahead of time and stored with your Pet ID kit*. You can also have some one else do this while you do the ground zero search.

• Full body photo of cat – preferably taken from the side
• 20 cards with 24 hour phone number & the words LOST CAT
• Treats
• Carrier
• Whistle, squeaky toy or clicker if pet has been trained to one or thinks they are fun and will respond.

Immediately, grab your pet’s ID* kit with photo. If you do not have an ID Kit* or have not finished the identification requirements, grab a photo of your pet and a business card with your phone number on it. If you don’t have a business card or if the card does not have a phone number on it that you will answer 24 hours a day, take a yellow sticky, index card or any scraps of paper and write your cell phone number on them with the words LOST CAT. Make at least 20. Don’t forget the carrier and treats in case bribery is necessary. There is something in your refrigerator that will work in an emergency. Hot dogs, last night’s dinner, bologna, cheese, tuna fish may all work in an emergency. A missing pet is an emergency.

Bring in the troops: This is the time to call in your friends, family and neighbors. If possible, recruit those who will be supportive in your efforts and understand your concern and attachment for your pet. Call in your supportive friends and not the naysayers… you need to keep yourself focused and energized in your efforts.

Make it easy for the pet to return: Leave someone at the point of escape or your home in case pet returns. If no one is available leave a gate open, back door, car door, crate or something that pet is familiar with and may want to stay near. In the worst case and with nothing else to leave, take off a piece of your clothing and leave it at the front door, near the gate or on the front porch.

Head for the door and begin to search the surrounding neigborhood or area.

Searching for a Missing CAT in the first hours

Choose a Direction: If you know in which direction the cat went, go that way, (and forget the ground zero search as you know he’s out). If you are not sure of the direction and your cat has got out before, go in the direction he went the last time he got out. If you have no idea what so ever, go to the spot where you think the cat escaped and assume he went right. This is a percentage call because cats, like dogs, turn to the right more often than they turn to the left. If however, there is something scary to the right or something is blocking the way then choose another direction.

The cat that lives indoors or bolted in fear

Cats will bolt in a direction and tend to stay straight. Cats tend to run under cover, up against houses, bushes or fences if they are frightened or tend towards skittish behavior. When frightened all cats will bolt towards cover so if your cat lives indoors all the time or was most likely scared, look for cover that the cat could have traveled along. Think in terms of straight lines for direction of travel.

Get down on you knees and look from a height close to the level of your cat’s eyes, (about 18 inches is fine). You will be surprised at how different the landscape looks from this vantage. Look for obvious cover and things a cat could get under. Also if the cat has escaped before, retrace the direction he ran towards the last time.

The cat that has access to the outdoors and occasionally or regularly is let outside

When a cat that has regular outdoor access does not come home as usual, the highest probability is that something has kept him from returning. There is myriad of situations that occur in this situation but one usually must assume it is an incident of some sort. Male cats and females in heat may go wandering on occasion but there is usually something that will alert you to a change in behavior beforehand. If your outdoor access cat goes missing, it is necessary to consider an event or situation has occurred that is keeping the cat from returning as has been his or her routine.

Neighborhood QUIK search

Easy to remember formula:

5 for 2 no more than 1 in 12 (explained in the paragraph below)

Look within a radius of five houses for the first two hours using the techniques mentioned. If after two hours there is no resolution, expand your search spiraling out from the point last seen as the center of the spiral. In the first twelve hours it is generally not necessary to go more than one block in each of the eight compass directions.

Calling for your cat: One of the most difficult parts of a search is trying to remain calm when you feel something may have happened. As you call your cat it is important to use your inside, affectionate voice. When we are stressed or trying to project our voice, we put tension in our voice which most pets perceive as something wrong. Always use a low, soft voice and affectionate clicks and noises you use regularly when playing or talking to your cat. Screaming or yelling a cat’s name is not effective and sends most cats further away in panic. Most of us have funny, affectionate or maybe even goofy pet names we call our beloved pet… this is the time to use them.

• Call the cat’s name but stop to listen…
• Call… listen (pause to count of 10).
• Call (pause to count of 10)… listen.
• Continue calling in the areas you feel are more probable and likely for your cat to explore or hide in.

Remember to use your indoor, happy affectionate voice like you want to play or give affection.

Talk to everyone you see…

As you are looking, show your cats picture to everyone. Remember to leave them one of your telephone cards or premade flyer from your PET ID Kit*. Askeveryone you see outside, “Have you seen this cat?” Listen for their response but do not stop to chat unless they have recent information about your pets disappearance.

When you see your cat

When you see your cat, do not give chase but slowly go to your knees and encourage the cat to approach. Try these techniques:

• Drop to your knees and use your inside voice. If your cat stops, encourage him to approach. Offer a tidbit or treat if you have one.
• If the cat is running develop a strategy to “head him off at the pass”. Intersecting an animal’s forward direction is better than flat out sprinting behind. Angulation in the direction you think he or she will go is more effective.

Follow your leads and sightings until you either find your pet or run out of clues and sightings. If you go over three hours with no sightings or clues, head back to the point of escape to update and design a more formal search strategy with public awareness, development of witnesses and effective activities that are more likely to lead to a reunion with your pet.

A quick call to a licensed professional, skilled in missing cat behavior and scenarios, is time and money well spent. Experience has proven that pet owners who use the services of a professional at the onset of the their search, are rewarded with a faster recovery time. A well planned strategy with input from a professional, is an effective tool when a beloved cat goes missing.

*A PET ID Kit is a preventive measure, strongly recommended by Karin for pet owners whose dogs and cats are members of their families.

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It’s becoming increasingly popular to bring your pet on vacation. With pet-friendly hotels and the welcoming nature of long-distance relatives, you might find yourself traveling with a cat more often in the upcoming years. That is, of course, if you can figure out how to prevent the shrieking yowl that has the kids covering their ears and begging for the first rest stop within half an hour of leaving the driveway. It can be enough to make you turn the car around.

Tips for a Smoother Journey with Your Cat

Fortunately, there are numerous little tricks you can try before your next road trip. However, not all disgruntled felines will take to anything other than their beloved home, and you may want to consider the quality of the trip overall for those who refuse to be comforted.

To rule out general dissatisfaction and loneliness as the main cause for the ruckus your cat insists on creating, try keeping the carrier (he’s in a pet carrier, isn’t he?) close enough so that a human he really likes can reach in from time to time to reassure him that he’s not alone. For some cats, this is really all it takes. Others, however, seem to demand their own personal suite for the next trip.

Cats are truly unique creatures. No two are alike, and their personalities can range from dog-like companionship to aloof beings who only show up for food and the occasional scratch on the head. How your cat relates to you—and how much interaction he prefers—will partly determine how well he handles traveling as your companion.

Cats should always go inside the carrier. Even lap-friendly cats, who are more than content to roam around the car while you rack up the miles, need to be confined for their own safety. Some cats may go crazy at the mere thought of enduring a car ride. These cats are usually better off being left at home or sedated if the trip is unavoidable.

Keeping your cat safe is the number one priority. Cat carriers, hotel rooms with pet privacy (which is nothing more than a “Do Not Disturb” sign and the option to refuse housekeeping services), and some form of safe confinement while you’re out of the room are essential. If you’re staying at a relative’s or friend’s house, you’ll still need to ensure that your cat can’t escape—especially if there are other animals in the house.

Keeping your cat happy while also keeping him safe is no easy task. He needs to be confined, which can be torturous for a cat who hasn’t yet adjusted to the carrier. Introducing him to the idea of the carrier well before the trip, for random periods of time, is highly recommended. Traveling with a cat becomes much easier when your feline companion has a basic understanding of what’s going on.

The actual act of traveling—whether by car or by plane—is undoubtedly the hardest part of the trip for 98% of cat companions. Some cats can be comforted through the bars of the pet carrier, while others may claw, bite, or scratch at any fingers attempting to offer comfort. How he handles his fear will determine his actions. Never let children try to comfort the cat until you know how he will react.

Other cats may be more content with a few familiar toys and belongings scattered throughout the carrier. Some prefer to be completely covered—a blanket over the carrier works well for the kitty who doesn’t want to see the world rushing by. Others are more interested in their surroundings and feel the need to peek out the windows of the car to maintain a sense of control. Finding what works best for your cat is a matter of trial and error. A few short trips in the months leading up to the big trip will help you figure out what works best.

If your cat requires regular use of sedatives before a trip, you may want to reconsider whether travel is truly better for him—or for you. Sedatives should never be administered lightly.

If you know you’ll be traveling with a cat from the start, begin car training him as early as possible. Small trips here and there (never leave a cat unattended in the car, especially in hot or cold weather) will help him get used to the idea of traveling from the very beginning.

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