While there are no hard and fast guarantees in terms of canine longevity, it is a well-known fact that some dogs are sure to live longer than others.

One of the most relevant factors that affect doggie life expectancy is size, but other factors also come into play just as they do in humans, specifically diet, exercise, and various genetic diseases that seem to affect certain breeds. Always check these factor with a veterinarian when you take a dog into your family.

Also remember that generally the smaller the breed, the longer the dog is likely to live. For instance terriers, Dachshunds (or sausage dogs), Pomeranians and Chihuahuas are all likely to have a relatively long lifespan, while the so-called giant dogs including Great Danes, Saint Bernards and Irish Wolfhounds all have a pitifully short life expectancy.

Oldest Dogs Ever

The oldest dog ever is believed to have been a small mixed breed called Max from Louisiana that died in 2013 at the age of 29 years and nine months. Max belonged to Janelle and Billy DeRouen, who ‘adopted’ him from a sugar cane farmer in 1983. He was said to be a really healthy animal, but began having seizures in his 29th year, purely from his age. A cross between a Beagle, a Dachshund and a terrier of some sort, his claim to fame was approved by Guinness World Records, but he died before the title of World’s Oldest Dog could be published in the annual publication, the Guinness Book of World Records.

Instead Guinness World Records continues to record an Australian Cattle-dog called Bluey as the world’s oldest ever dog. Bluey was owned by a Mr. Les Hall who lived in Victoria on the south east coast of Australia. Hall got him in 1910 and the dog worked with sheep and cattle for nearly two decades. He was 29 years and five months old when he was eventually euthanazed in 1939.

But of course it isn’t usual for any dogs to live this long, and in reality, your canine buddy is likely to live anything from seven to 15 years.

Oldest Living Dog Breeds

Ironically neither the Australian Cattle-dog nor any cross-bred dogs are listed in the most common lists of the top ten longest living dogs. Also, not all the lists are the same, but here are ten breeds that most experts list as potentially having the longest canine lifespan.

• Lhasa Apso a little woolly-looking Tibetan dog that was bred to guard Buddhist monasteries, and which has the same life expectancy of Maltese and Toy Poodles, about 15 years. The longest living dog of this breed died at 27.
• Beagle docile and loving, and one of the longest living breeds. While the average Beagle will live to be 12 to 15 years old, a Beagle from Virginia, called Butch also lived for 27 years, passing on in 2003.
• Chihuahua small and spunky, this breed has produced some of the longest living dogs that have lived as long as 22 years. It isn’t unusual for them to live to 18.
• Yorkshire Terrier another small, spunky breed that has an average lifespan of 17 years. They are also known to live up to two decades.
• Pomeranian small, cute and pretty, these fluffy little creatures are said to live to between 12 and 16 years.
• Dachshund better known as a ‘sausage dog’ this cute little character is known to have an average lifespan of between 12 and 15 years, though a Dachshund called Chanel lived for 21 years passing on in 2009.
• Toy Poodle miniature versions of the bigger poodle breed, these cute, curly-haired dogs also live between 12 and 15 years, and at least one (called Seamus) lived to 20.
• Maltese although sometimes called a poodle, the Maltese is an ancient dog breed that comes (not surprisingly) from Malta. It has the same life expectancy as Toy Poodles (12 to 15 years).
• Pug an ancient Chinese breed that also lives for about 12 to 15 years.
• Miniature Schnauzer energetic and wonderfully feisty, this is another breed that typically lives for anything from 12 to 15 years.

This does not mean, of course, that other breeds will not live as long as the breeds listed above. Some other breeds that are said to live for at least 13 or 14 years include Cairn Terriers, Bearded Collies, Jack and Parson Russell Terriers, Brittany and English Cocker Spaniels, Cardigan Welsh Corgis, Shetland Sheepdogs, West Highland White Terriers, and Whippets.

Dogs that have the shortest life expectancy include Dogue de Bordeaux and Irish Wolfhounds that only live for about five to seven years; Boxers and Bullmastiffs that live from about eight to ten years; Chinese Shar-Pei that live from eight to ten years; Great Danes that only live for between seven and ten years; Chow Chows, Curly-Coated Retrievers and Collies that live from eight to 12 years; African Boerboels, French Bulldogs and Mastiffs that live to about nine to 11 years. Rottwielers and Saint Bernrds also only live for eight to ten or 11 years, and Scottish Deerhounds only live for about seven to nine years.

Why Some Dogs Live Longer Than Other Dogs

Breed is an important factor, and this will give you some indication of how long your best canine friend is likely to live. But like humans, dogs don’t always meet the stated expectations.

Generally it is true that smaller breeds, including so-called ‘toy’ dogs, live the longest. Giant and other very large breed dogs simply don’t have the same kind of life expectancy. But regardless of the breed of your dog, if you feed your best friend correctly and ensure it has adequate exercise you will also be ensuring that it will live as long as possible.

Ultimately, when it comes to choosing a doggie friend, it isn’t always the quantity of years of life that matter. You need to work out what you want from your canine best friend. For me, waking up with my Great Dane’s head next to me on the pillow (his body on the floor next to me) was one of the most special daily experiences. It was sad that he didn’t live long, but the quality of doggie love was very special.

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This doesn’t mean we should stop flushing; on the contrary. Rather we should be more aware of the need to install water efficient toilets when we build or renovate our homes.

The thing is that toilets were not created equal – and some waste considerably more water than others.

Types of toilets and flushing systems

The water that we use to flush our toilets either comes from a cistern or sometimes it comes directly from the water supply pipe. In the early days of toilets – during the Victorian era – cisterns were positioned way above the toilet itself. A pipe connected the cistern to the loo (or toilet pan), and when the user pulled a chain attached to the cistern, a flush valve was opened. Water would then flow downwards, using the force of gravity. That is, of course, where the phrase “pull the chain” comes from, even when we are using low-level toilets with a flushing handle or buttons!

Today some old homes still have original high-level toilets, although they don’t qualify as particularly water efficient. But specialist manufacturers of Victorian-style appliances and goods produce look-alike traditional high-level toilets that are fitted with modern parts. If the cistern tank is small enough, and there is a dual-flush system, then it would probably fit the description of being “water efficient”.

Still, low-level toilets are better priced and it is this type that manufacturers have concentrated on making most water efficient. Initially the idea was to improve the flushing system so that it didn’t rely on gravity. Cisterns were still joined to the pan with a pipe, but it was (and is) a much shorter pipe. These were also the first toilets that had a flushing system that was activated by a handle.

Then close-coupled toilets were designed. Neater (because you don’t see any pipe work) and quieter (because the water doesn’t have far to flush) they were – and still are – more expensive than ordinary low-level toilets. Also, they are generally not as efficient when it comes to cleaning the pan with water from the cistern. But new technology has changed all of this.

The flushing system itself may depend on a wash-down system or a siphonic system.  The latter depends on water flowing through a U-shaped pipe that has one side longer than the other. The water is moved from one side to the other under the force of gravity. The toilet pan is emptied by means of suction and the toilet bowl is refilled with clean water.

The wash-down system, which is more usual in North America, uses the force of the flushing water to clean the toilet bowl. These have either a P-trap or an S-trap, describing the shape of the trap. Either way, they have a single trap that requires water to be flushed into the toilet bowl to remove the contents.

But how does this translate to water efficient toilets?

Water efficiency for toilets

In the early days, toilet cisterns were designed to hold a lot of water – more than 20 liters. When people began to realize how wasteful toilet cisterns were, smaller 13-liter cisterns were designed. By the mid 1990s companies were manufacturing toilets that had a water storage capacity of just 1.6 gallon or 6 liters. For those who didn’t want to, or couldn’t afford to, rip out old toilets and fit new ones, DIY articles and books told them how to reduce water capacity, for instance by putting a brick into the cistern. This effectively took up a lot of space that water would have had to fill.

At the same time, building codes were changed in both North America (specifically in the US and in Ontario) and in most parts of Europe, requiring all new homes and buildings to be fitted with 6-liter loos. These were called ultra low flush (ULF) toilets. The dual-flush toilet took water-efficiency one step further by using 6 liters of water in the cistern that can be used to flush solid waste, but (by using a second flushing mechanism) using only 3 liters to flush liquid waste.

While this technology is mandatory in several countries including Australia and Singapore, it is relatively new in North America.

Even though the installation of 6-litre toilets in new construction is not mandatory throughout Canada, many municipalities in that country have subsidized toilet replacement programs which attempt to increase the installation of water efficient toilets and reduce overall water consumption.

Research to establish which toilets are the most water efficient type

The Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) has compared several different types of toilets in an endeavor to see which type is most water efficient and cost effective.

In a research program, they installed a total of 70 toilets:

• 56 Caroma dual-flush types,
• 14 single-flush ultra-flush made by three different manufacturers, TOTO, Niagara and Western Pottery.

Most of these toilets were installed in municipal offices, and the flush volume of the existing toilet was measured. Electronic flush counters were installed, largely to see if people found the need to flush twice (because of the 3-liter capacity). Feedback was overwhelmingly in favor of the dual-flush option. Furthermore a substantial water saving was achieved, with dual-flush saving up to 26% more water than single-flush 6-liter toilets.

The CMHC choice of toilets

Caroma (www.caromausa.com) is a leading manufacturer of dual-flush wash-down toilets, and they are seen as pioneers in the field of water conserving bathroom products. It was this Australian-based company that produced the first successful two-button dual flush system way back in the 1990s. Their 6/3 liter toilet has become a global standard – or at least a standard that many manufacturers worldwide now use to make eco friendly toilets.

As the company points out on its web site, what was special about their dual-flush toilets was the ability to use either all the water in the cistern, or half of it. Plus, they say, the technology is suitable for all the world’s sewerage systems without any need for modification.

TOTO toilets are made in the US (www.totousa.com) and the company is committed to sustainability. “If something can be reclaimed, recycled, or reused at a TOTO plant, it is.” For example, all grey water generated during the manufacturing operation is stored and reused, and all possible materials are recycled. Even imperfect, damaged china is crushed and recycled back into roadbed construction. If people that the company employs live in a town or district where recycling is not a reality, they are encouraged to take all recyclables to the TOTO plant for recycling.

Niagara is also known to be a pioneer in the world of water efficient toilets. Based in both the US and Canada, the company released a new 3 liter or 0.8 gallon passive “vacuum-assist” toilet onto the market in May 2010. Reviews heralded this as “the most water-conserving of any flush toilet on the market”. While it looks like many other toilets, the Niagara Stealth has a tank-within-a-tank that minimizes the amount of water flushed.

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So the million dollar question if you are building a new home is: what to look for when buying windows?

While cost is always a factor, you should not be driven by price alone. You also need to consider:

• the material used to make the frames,
• the type of glazing used,
• the style and size of frames,
• and probably most importantly, energy efficiency.

Materials for frames

The range of materials used to manufacture window frames is surprisingly varied and includes various types of wood, metal, plastic-type materials and man-made composites. Within each of these categories there are many choices.  For example you will find frames made from many different types of wood. They may also be made of mild steel (although this material is not common nowadays because the frames are heavy and tend to rust) or aluminum. They may be made of vinyl or uPVC, or they may be made of a combination of materials; a wooden frame clad with vinyl or aluminum for instance.

Vinyl frames are low maintenance and when made from superior materials, durable. Some are made by an extrusion process, which produces a frame with internal air cavities. Others have a reinforced inner structure, usually wood.

Wood, when used on its own can of course be stained or painted, or simply sealed or varnished, while aluminum frames are normally factory coated, which makes them easier and less costly to maintain. Clad frames also require less maintenance than straightforward wooden frames.

Fiberglass is the newest material to be used to make window frames. They are generally light and strong, and remarkably durable – again provided they are well made. They generally don’t expand and contract with heat and cold as much as some other frames, but they are relatively expensive.

While manufacturers often specialize in certain types of windows and window frames, there are numerous suppliers that offer a range of different types. For example, the Calgary-headquartered Gienow Windows and Doors (www.gienow.com) offers metal clad wooden and vinyl windows as well as straightforward wood and just vinyl frames. Concord Windows and Doors (www.concordwindowstore.com) in Toronto sells PVC and wood windows.

Glazing

There are different types of glass used for glazing as well as different ways that the glass is installed. For instance tough tempered glass may be used to withstand breakage, or laminated glass which will shatter in such a way that it doesn’t become a risk of injury. National Building Codes all over the world govern minimum standards and specifications of glass including the type of glass and thickness that may be used in any particular sized window, and how it must be fitted. Safety glass is usually specified for patio doors and windows where there is any danger of human impact, either accidental or deliberate.

In Canada, windows are usually either double-glazed (with two layers of glass separated with a spacer) or triple-glazed (either with three layers of glass or two layers with low-emissivity film between them).

Style and size of frames

There is a vast choice when it comes to size and style of window frames, ranging from small fixed windows that do not open, to enormous sliding windows with a single pane of glass, or small cottage windows that are divided by secondary frames known as mullions.

Hinged windows are probably the most common type, although they may be hinged to swing from side to side or at the top, or even at the bottom. Sliding windows are popular because they don’t take up space. Some are made to slide vertically while others slide horizontally. However they are potentially the least energy efficient of all windows types because they are prone to water and air leaks.

Energy efficiency

When we consider the energy efficiency of windows, it is not only their ability to keep out the cold that we need to think of – although in cold winter countries like Canada, this is paramount. We also need to consider the ability of windows to block out heat and the harmful UV rays of the sun. Their ability to transmit visible light is another factor that we need to think about, as is their ability to prevent air from escaping in or out of the window.

As the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/) points out, performance standards and new technologies have changed significantly during the past two decades and so it really is important to know what to look for when buying windows for your home.

Wood frames, being made from a natural material, have high insulating properties, although the frame must be well made otherwise it won’t necessarily be airtight. Clad wood frames have similar natural insulating qualities and need less maintenance than solid wood that isn’t clad.

Aluminum frames are strong and undeniably more durable than wood, but they do conduct heat. For this reason, the National Building Code of Canada insists on them being made with a thermal barrier inside the frame to reduce heat loss and condensation. This should be made from rigid foam, polyurethane or from wood. Like wooden frames, if they are not well made, both water and air can leak through joints – particularly badly mitered corner joints.

Vinyl frames are regarded as being very good when it comes to insulation.

The type of glazing used also affects insulation. For example, air trapped in double-glazed windows aids insulation. Triple-glazed windows, though, are considerably more effective in terms of insulation. They are also effective when it comes to reducing noise from outside. But triple-glazed windows are heavy and more expensive than those that are double-glazed.

The low-emissivity film used for some triple-glazed windows may be used on the inside of double-glazed windows to stop heat from escaping. The advantage of this is that the window is lighter than one that is triple-glazed and not as expensive. This film also reduces condensation on windows and gives some protection from the UV rays of the sun.

A fairly recent innovation in window technology involves replacing the air in double- or triple-glazed windows with some sort of dense, inert gas. The gas has a much higher insulating ability and also lower thermal conductivity. While argon is the most usual gas used, Marvin Windows and Doors (www.marvin.com/windows/new-window-products/) recently introduced a product that uses krypton gas that has even better thermal qualities than argon.

Overall, this is what to look for when buying windows that are energy efficient:

• the U-factor for insulation – the lower the number the better,
• the SHGC (solar heat gain coefficient) for blocking out the sun – the lower the SHGC the better,
• the VT (visible transmittance) factor – the higher the value the more visible light you will see,
• the R-value that measures heat  loss – the higher the better, with R-5 being optimum.

Remember that windows can account for as much as 30% of the heat lost from a house. That’s according to Natural Resources Canada (www.newhomes.nrcan.gc.ca) which promotes energy efficient products, including ENERGY STAR windows.

Supreme Windows in Calgary (www.supremewindows.net) is one that promotes added hard coat Low-E glazing options.

One of the world’s largest window manufacturers, Jeld-Wen Windows & Doors (https://en.jeld-wen.ca) makes wood, vinyl and aluminum clad windows. In 2010 they became the first Canadian door and window manufacturer to promote ecoENERGY Retrofit Homes in the federal government’s energy efficiency program. This program allows homeowners to get grants once energy advisors certified by Natural Resources Canada have done an official assessment.

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The greater choice

We are going to help you identify the benefits of fiberglass doors and door and window frames. But before we even go there, it is a good idea for you to recognize the greater choice. In broad terms the choice incorporates wood, metal (either mild steel which isn’t very popular any more, or aluminum), plastic (including PVC and vinyl) and of course fiberglass. There are also windows that are made with a pre-cast concrete frame that you build into the structure of your house.

All these materials have their own benefits, ranging from eco-friendly factors to price. So how does fiberglass score?

The development of fiberglass as a building material

First off, be aware that building materials all have their own pros and cons. Some are more environmentally friendly than other, some are easier to work with, and some types are simply cheaper. You will also want to consider aesthetics.

Fiberglass is a material that was developed by the British company Fibreglass Ltd. during the 1940s. Known generically as glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) in the UK and fiber-reinforced plastic (FRP) in the US, it was developed for use in aircraft construction. After World War II it became a popular material for boat building. Because it is extraordinarily strong and stable, it was soon being used within many industries, including construction.

Today it is the material of choice for spas and the inner skin of hot tubs, and is used for storage tanks and molded septic tanks. It is also used for relatively lightweight roof sheeting and for both window and over-door canopies and dormer windows. It continues to gain popularity in the door and window trade in the form of window frames, door surrounds and doors.

Fiberglass is basically made from chopped glass fiber that is loosely woven to form fiberglass matting. This, in turn, is saturated with resin pre-mixed with an appropriate catalyst that makes it harden. In some applications, including the construction of irregular shaped fish ponds and for sealing some building elements, fiberglass may be applied in situ. But more often it is either molded in a factory, or pultruded through a heat die to shape and form it.

Benefits of fiberglass as a building material

The main advantages of fiberglass include its:

• high strength
• low maintenance
• non-corrosiveness
• minimal conductivity
• energy efficiency
• eco-friendliness

Well-engineered fiberglass windows and doors will be incredibly strong. For example, a well-made fiberglass window frame will have a sheer strength that is eight times greater than a good quality PVC or vinyl window frame.

Not only is it strong, but fiberglass is also tough, and will withstand extreme temperatures, both hot and cold. It can be easily sprayed or wiped clean.

The fact that it doesn’t expand or contract means that it won’t split or crack. If you consider the punishing treatment fiberglass boats and bridge structures face in corrosive salt water, you will realize just how non-corrosive fiberglass as a material is. It has a longer lifespan than vinyl, which expands and contracts quite radically (more than eight times more than fiberglass and three times as much as aluminum). Because it is non-corroding, it is also considerable more durable than aluminum.

Fiberglass also has superior insulating qualities because it doesn’t conduct heat or cold. It is said to be a lot less conductive than vinyl, and around 500 times less conductive than aluminum. A solid fiberglass door has about five times the insulating value of a solid wood door.

Its lack of conductivity as a material makes fiberglass energy efficient which, in turn, makes it eco-friendly and cost effective. In fact fiberglass has been heralded as the most environmentally friendly material for doors and windows that is available.

Companies that manufacture fiberglass windows and doors

There are companies all over the world that design and manufacture fiberglass doors and windows.

A fully integrated Canadian window and door manufacturer, Inline Fiberglass (www.inlinefiberglass.com) has been operating for quarter of a century. Not only do they design and produce windows and doors, but they also assemble them.  The company produces a range of ready-glazed window frames including casement, sliders, both single hung and double hung, bay/bow windows, picture windows and those that tilt and turn. Their range of doors is currently limited to sliding, patio and tilting doors, all of which are glazed. The company is a member of both the Canada Green Building Council and the U.S. Green Building Council and they manufacture according to ENERGY STAR standards. Their products are also rated by the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC).

The Canadian owned Cascadia Windows & Doors (www.cascadiawindows.com) produces dual-action, outswing and awning, inswing and hopper, fixed and strip, and both vertical slider and horizontal slider windows. They also produce single and double leaf dual action, single and double leaf outswing and slider doors. All these frames are supplied with high-performance glazing and all either meet or exceed ENERGY STAR standards for their ability to save energy and meet LEED criteria. The company tests all its windows and doors to the required US and Canadian standards and is rated by ENERGY STAR and the NFRC. They have also opted to have products additionally rated for resistance to condensation.

Another Canadian company, the family-owned Toronto-based Bella Vista Windows & Doors (www.bellavistawindows.ca), also manufactures glazed products that boast superior fiberglass frames. In addition to casement, awning, fixed, single slider and single hung, double slider and double hung, and bay and bow windows, and sliding patio doors, they manufacture good-looking fiberglass entry doors. Available in a number of sizes and styles, the doors are designed to look like solid wood. There is a choice between a finish that imitates wood grain, and a finish that may be painted or stained. They also manufacture to ENERGY STAR standards.

Yet another Canadian company, Accurate Dorwin Fiberglass Windows and Doors, boasts top ratings from both Natural Resources Canada and the US Department of Energy. Their products are also rated by ENERGY STAR and the NFRC. They produce awning, casement, single hung and double hung, bay and bow, as well as tilt and slide and picture windows. Their range of doors includes single entry, patio, garden and terrace designs which range from solid material to energy efficient glazed frames.

So you will see that windows and doors made from fiberglass are certainly worth considering when you build your home. The choice is enormous and quality generally great.

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When it comes to eco-friendly windows, several factors must be considered. These include the material used for the frame, insulation, and their ability to keep the rays of the sun in or out of the home, depending on what is required. It’s about comfort as much as it is about reducing our carbon footprint and going green for the planet, because it’s the right thing to do. There’s another factor too: homes that are energy-efficient are cheaper to run.

In addition, some governments offer incentives to encourage less enthusiastic home builders to think and act green. In the US, there are at least eight different financial incentives, ranging from tax credits and home loans for replacing old windows with energy-efficient windows, to tax rebates for installing a solar hot water heater. There are also local incentives in most US states. Manufacturers and green-savvy builders can earn energy-efficient tax credits as well.

In Canada, the Office of Energy Efficiency at Natural Resources Canada offers federal grants and incentives as part of its ecoENERGY Retrofit program. Although this is more relevant to upgrades and refurbishments than new homes, it’s still a valuable resource.

Since the average person may not have the technical know-how to judge whether windows (or other products) are eco-friendly, the US Environmental Protection Agency and the US Department of Energy launched a joint program to improve energy-efficient products and practices. Called ENERGY STAR, this program awards products specific ratings. By using products with an ENERGY STAR rating, you know they meet the strict energy efficiency guidelines established by the EPA and the US Department of Energy.

In 2010 alone, North Americans saved enough energy to avoid the greenhouse gases that would have been caused by 33 million cars. According to ENERGY STAR, they also saved nearly US$18 billion on combined utility bills.

Energy Efficient Factors

In addition to ENERGY STAR ratings, Canada has an EnerGuide rating service (ERS) that determines the level of efficiency in homes on a scale from zero to 100. The higher the rating, the better, indicating that the house is well-insulated and airtight, meaning the owner won’t need to buy additional energy. It’s easy to see how windows can help improve a home’s rating. For a brand-new house, the ideal rating is at least 80—if possible, higher.

Windows are among the growing list of products that qualify for the international ENERGY STAR energy efficiency symbol. However, different climatic zones have different needs when it comes to suitability. For example, the type of window that suits a northern Canadian home will differ from the needs of a home in northern Australia. Within a single country, there can also be variations. For example, Canada alone has been divided into four climate zones, as explained on the Natural Resources Canada website: www.newhomes.nrcan.gc.ca. So, the most suitable eco-friendly window for your home will depend on where you live.

Whether you’re buying windows from an outlet like Lowes or Home Depot (www.homedepot.ca), or directly from one of the manufacturers, there are some other important factors to consider.

First, there’s the U-factor, which measures how well a window prevents heat from escaping and how well it insulates. Ratings range from 0.20 to 1.20, and the lower the number, the better the U-factor.

Then there’s the solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC), which measures the window’s ability to block out sunlight and maintain a cool interior environment. The lower the SHGC, the better the window is at blocking heat.

Another rating to consider is visible transmittance (VT), which measures how much visible light passes through the window. The higher the value, the more light you’ll see, reducing the need for artificial lighting.

The R-value measures resistance to heat loss. Since windows can account for up to 30% of the heat lost from a house, according to Natural Resources Canada, it’s clear how important the R-value factor is. High R-value windows are the most energy-efficient.

According to Serious Windows (www.seriouswindows.com), the most cost-effective energy-saving option is R-5 windows. As their experts point out, windows are one of the biggest sources of heating and cooling energy loss in our homes.

Another factor is the air leakage rating, which measures how much air can escape through the window. A well-made window will be airtight, while a cheap, poorly made window may have gaps and cracks at the joints, allowing air to pass through even when the window is shut.

Condensation resistance (CR) is another important factor. This measures the ability of the window to resist moisture forming on the glazed surface. CR is rated on a scale from 0 to 100, and the higher the number, the more resistant the window will be to condensation.

Lastly, there’s the design pressure (DP) rating, which measures the pressure the window can withstand when it is closed and locked. This is an important security factor, as well as an issue that relates to air entering and leaving the house and how strong winds may affect the window. The higher the DP rating, the more pressure the window can withstand.

Eco-Friendly Materials
Marvin (www.marvin.com and marvincanada.com) is a window manufacturer with outlets throughout the USA and Canada. The company prides itself on producing energy-efficient products that meet or exceed the tax-credit ENERGY STAR guidelines. In addition, they use quality recycled materials and make a point of recycling all their manufacturing by-products.

Their window frames are made of lumber or aluminum-clad wood. Products are FSC and/or SFI certified. The FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification ensures that the lumber was sourced from a sustainable, well-managed forest. Similarly, the SFI (Sustainable Forestry Initiative) certification guarantees that the wood comes from a certified sustainable source.

If you’re looking for eco-friendly windows made of wood, be sure to look for both of these certifications.

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According to C3, a non-profit organization based in Alberta that is working to transform energy usage, showers account for about 22% of all the water used (both hot and cold) and as much as two-thirds of just the hot water used in the average Canadian home. A family of four that takes short, five-minute showers uses about 70,000 liters (or 15,400 gallons) of water each year. If you extend your shower to 10 minutes, you can easily double your water usage. But C3 notes that by spending between $8 and $90 (depending on the showerhead you choose), you can reduce your hot water usage by more than a third.

Choosing the Right Showerhead

There are various types of showerheads designed to save water, including low-flow showerheads and low-flow, high-pressure showerheads that don’t use the same flow restrictors as the original low-flow models. These not only reduce the amount of water used while showering but also limit the amount of energy needed to heat the water. By using less water, you’ll save both water and money.

Water-efficient showerheads generally look very similar to most ordinary showerheads, but they restrict the water flow in some way. While a regular showerhead can use up to 45 liters (10 gallons) of water per minute, even early water-saving models will use a maximum of half that amount. Today, most water-efficient showerheads have a flow rate of just 9 to 14 liters (2 to 3 gallons) of water per minute. Some newer models claim maximum flow rates of just half a gallon or about 2 to 3 liters. This shows how far technology has come in the past two decades.

However, C3 warns that you shouldn’t blindly trust claims of energy-efficient, low-flow, water-saving, or water-efficient showerheads. Always check the packaging for the specified flow rate. If no flow rate is specified, it’s better to choose another product.

Interestingly, C3 does not consider a showerhead with a flow rate of 2.5 gallons per minute to be water- or energy-efficient. They recommend looking for a maximum flow rate of no more than 1.5 or 1.6 gallons per minute.

One of the brands recommended by C3 is Bricor, a Californian-based company.

Some Interesting Brands

Bricor (www.bricor.com) uses a patented VACUUM flow “booster” valve for its showerheads. This technology aerates and compacts the water under pressure. As the water exits the showerhead, it expands and vibrates, creating a powerful stream at a very low flow rate—around 1.25 gallons per minute or less. This innovation helps solve low water pressure issues that typically cause weak flow. The intensity of the water flow improves shower performance, while using less hot water, which reduces both water and energy costs. Additionally, because the droplets are compacted and highly energized, the likelihood of mineral crystals forming scale is greatly reduced.

Another Californian company, Jet-Stream (www.jet-streamshowerhead.net), produces a 1.5-gallon-per-minute showerhead that uses an air chamber to create turbulence by mixing water and air. Since there is no mineral deposit buildup (for the same reasons mentioned above), the manufacturer claims the showerhead is “self-cleaning.” This product comes with a 20-year replacement warranty. Additionally, it features a patented design that maintains a constant pressure of 1.5 gallons per minute, regardless of water pressure, from 15 to 120 psi (pounds per square inch). The average water pressure in Canadian homes is about 50 psi.

Oxygenics (www.oxygenics.ca) specializes in high-performance, water- and energy-saving showerheads. Their patented technology uses the Venturi principle of fluid mechanics to increase water velocity. This makes the water flow through the showerhead faster, improving water pressure, even though less water is used. Oxygenics showerheads also inject oxygen into the water, giving your skin a rejuvenating feel.

Oxygenics offers a wide range of showerheads, all of which are guaranteed against clogging and come with a lifetime warranty. They even offer a model that works well with very low, variable water pressure. The Oxygenics X-Stream model automatically adjusts using a gravity-based, free-flowing drop system. An internal spring expands and contracts based on water pressure and velocity, making this model “the world’s first hybrid conservation shower.” Even better, the showerhead cap is adjustable, allowing you to customize the spray pattern to your liking.

Evolve has developed a patent-pending technology called ShowerStart, which they have incorporated into a new line of energy-efficient showerheads, including a “lower-flow” model. Evolve’s innovation takes human behavior into account. The company recognizes that many people waste gallons of water while waiting for their shower to heat up. With Evolve’s new design, the showerhead reduces the water flow to a trickle once the water reaches 95 °F (35 °C). You can then restart the flow when you’re ready to begin showering.

So, if you’re looking for green products for your new home, be sure to add a water-saving showerhead to your shopping list.

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Anyone who maintains a lawn or garden should be aware that when insecticides are sprayed, a portion of these chemicals eventually reaches the drainage system, which carries them to the waterways. Additionally, personal exposure or handling of insecticides can be harmful to human health. The widespread effects of artificial and chemical fertilizers are no longer just theoretical—they are a tangible concern.

Due to various economic and medical reasons, there is an urgent need to control pests in both the agrochemical and industrial sectors. It’s essential to balance agricultural needs with environmental and health considerations when using insecticides. Efforts are being made to reduce the toxic content of insecticides while maintaining their efficacy. This has led to the development of biological insecticides, often referred to as natural or “greener” insecticides. Some examples include Bacillus thuringiensis, Spinosyns, azadirachtin, and Pyrethrum.

Billions of dollars are lost each year due to the damage insects cause to crops. Over the years, only a few solutions have proven effective in combating this destruction. Rohm and Haas pioneered the idea of greener insecticides. They developed compounds like Halofenozide and Tebufenozide, which target the ecdysteroid receptor to regulate the molting process in specific insects. These compounds are highly selective and do not harm other organisms, offering farmers, consumers, and society a safer and more effective way to control insect populations.

Benefits of Greener Insecticides

Greener insecticides offer several benefits:

• They do not harm flowers, plants, or wildlife, even if they enter waterways.
• These insecticides are effective for longer periods compared to other commercial products, which means less frequent application and better protection for plants.
• They are completely safe for you and your pets. You can enjoy the beauty and company of your garden without worrying about bites or rashes.
• They do not burn your lawn, and the soil quality remains unaffected, unlike when artificial and chemical fertilizers are used.
• They are economical compared to other commercial insecticides, allowing you to save money. You can use these savings to enhance your garden, add more plants, or invest in landscaping.

Examples of Greener Insecticides

‘Green chemistry’ is a branch of chemistry focused on minimizing or eliminating the use of harmful substances. A variety of greener insecticides have been developed for crop protection. This approach helps keep crops pest- and insect-free in an environmentally friendly way. Here are some examples of greener insecticides:

• Bacillus thuringiensis: A biological insecticide used as a larvicide against a range of caterpillars.
• Spinosad: A microorganism-based insecticide, highly selective in targeting pests that attack trees, fruits, ornamental plants, turf, vegetables, and cotton, without harming beneficial insects like predatory wasps.
• Pyrethrum: A natural insecticide made from the dried flower heads of *C. cinerariifolium* and *C. coccineum*, which belong to the daisy family, Asteraceae.

In addition to the advantages of using greener insecticides, there’s a sense of immense satisfaction knowing you’re contributing to environmental protection. Greener insecticides are both effective and cost-efficient. Their use is rapidly increasing and becoming a preferred choice worldwide. As awareness grows about the harmful effects of chemical fertilizers, many philanthropists are working to educate the public about natural alternatives.

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To effectively care for laminated wood flooring, you first need to understand its composition, manufacturing process, and installation method. Then, you can explore the best cleaning techniques for this type of floor. General maintenance is straightforward, but neglecting stains as soon as they appear can lead to problems.

Before diving into rust stain removal, here’s an overview of laminated wood flooring and its general upkeep.

Understanding Laminated Wood Flooring
Laminated wood flooring, often referred to as floating wood tile, is made from wood by-products bonded under pressure. Unlike solid wood, laminated wood products are not solid wood, nor are they made from vinyl, though many manufacturers also produce synthetic flooring options like linoleum and vinyl.

Essentially, laminate flooring consists of a high-resolution photograph of wood grain impregnated with melamine—a compound commonly used in synthetic resins for kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom cabinets. This image is fixed to a high-density fiberboard (HDF) core and coated with a durable, transparent protective layer.

Laminate flooring comes in “planks” that are either glued or clicked together and should always be laid on a suitable underlay.

Keeping Your Laminate Flooring Pristine

One common issue with laminate flooring is that specialized cleaning products, as described in this guide on cleaning laminate flooring, can leave a residue or a slightly sticky film on the surface. Diluting the cleaner with water may help mitigate this problem. Steam mops often cause streaking, and even plain water can leave marks as it dries.

A 50-50 mix of vinegar and water can be effective, provided you use a mop or steamer that prevents the solution from drying on the floor. Alternatively, a few drops of lemon-scented dish detergent in warm water can work well. Another popular method involves using a window-cleaning product: sweep or vacuum loose dirt, spray the cleaner in sections, and mop with a flexible-head mop equipped with a thick, removable microfiber pad.

Removing Rust Stains from Laminate Flooring
Even with diligent cleaning, rust stains can pose a challenge. Often caused by metal objects rusting upon contact with water, these stains consist of tiny iron oxide particles. Some chemicals, like chlorine-based bleach, can worsen the stain or cause discoloration, bleaching, or yellowing of the floor.

While nail varnish remover may remove rust, it can also damage the laminate. Oxalic acid, a white powder available at hardware stores, is another suggested remedy. However, as a strong bleach, it may lighten the surrounding area, posing a risk to the flooring’s appearance.

Commercial Rust Removal Products
Several commercial rust removal products are available, with varying effectiveness. Research consumer feedback on products suitable for laminated wood floors and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Check product labels for warnings about potential damage, which may be in fine print.

Water-based products, such as Ultra On Rust Remover, which is biodegradable and non-toxic, are generally safer. Other options include:

• Bar Keepers Friend Lime & Rust Remover: Some users praise it, while others find it ineffective. Make a paste, apply it to the stain, and wipe it off without scrubbing to avoid damaging the laminate.
• Zud Heavy Duty Cleanser: Designed to tackle rust and other tough stains.
• Whink Rust & Iron Stain Remover: Safe for vinyl finishes, making it suitable for laminate flooring.

Before applying any product, test it on a small, inconspicuous section of the stain to ensure it doesn’t harm the flooring.

Homemade Rust Removal Solutions

For a chemical-free, cost-effective approach, try these home remedies, but always test on a small area first.

A mixture of white spirit vinegar, bicarbonate of soda, and water in equal parts can form a thick solution or paste (add more bicarbonate for a thicker consistency). Apply it to the stain, let it sit, then rinse with clean, cold water and wipe dry.

Another effective remedy involves sprinkling fine-grain table salt on the stain, then gently rubbing it with a halved lemon or lime. Avoid coarse salt, which may scratch the surface. If needed, sprinkle more salt, wet the area with lemon juice, and let it soak for about 24 hours. Gently rub with a lemon half and rinse with water.

Liquid ammonia, though effective, is toxic and should be a last resort. Mix two tablespoons of ammonia with four cups of warm water, pour over the stain, blot with a cloth or paper towel, and rinse with cold water. Wear gloves, avoid inhaling fumes, and consider wearing a mask.

If using oxalic acid, dilute it with twice the amount of warm water (1:2 ratio), apply, and rinse thoroughly after up to an hour. Wear gloves and avoid inhaling fumes.

For rust stains on wood or carpet, always wipe excess rust with a damp cloth before applying any solution, and perform a small section test to ensure safety.

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For a newly plastered wall, the process is straightforward. Apply an alkali-resistant plaster primer to the raw plaster, followed by an affordable undercoat to create a base for the topcoat. The final coat delivers the desired finish, often requiring multiple layers. This is a simple task that anyone can master with proper care.

Previously painted walls demand more effort. Start by removing peeling paint. Depending on the original coating, you may need a primer or undercoat. Uneven surfaces might require sanding, but often, thorough stripping is necessary, which can be labor-intensive. For detailed guidance, see how to remove wallpaper.

Painting Over Wallpaper: Challenges and Solutions

Painting over wallpaper requires detective work unless you applied it yourself and know the materials used. Well-hung wallpaper can conceal imperfections, but you must assess its condition. Test if it’s likely to peel under wet paint by applying warm water. If the paper loosens, it’s ready to strip. However, some wallpapers are so firmly adhered that removal is tough.

Stripping wallpaper before painting is ideal but not always feasible. If partial stripping creates an uneven surface, you’ll need to fill craters with a filler, a time-consuming but manageable task. Alternatively, painting over intact wallpaper can work if the surface is sound.

Consider the wallpaper’s texture. Smooth wallpaper is ideal for painting, but textured or embossed paper, like Victorian-era anaglypta, can pose issues. Anaglypta, designed to mimic ornate pressed ceilings, was meant for painting, often used below a dado rail for decorative effect. However, unattractive embossing can ruin a paint job. Thicker textured paper may allow you to strip just the outer layer, leaving the glued base intact. If painting causes bubbling, stop—this signals easy removal of the remaining paper.

Covering dark or patterned wallpaper is another hurdle. Multiple coats may be needed to hide bold colors or designs. Start with a universal undercoat, followed by a solid white coat (unless aiming for a dark color). Let each coat dry fully before applying the next until you achieve the desired result.

Before painting over wallpaper, weigh all factors. If preparation feels overwhelming, consider hiring a professional to strip it for you to ensure a flawless finish.

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On-demand, or instant, water heaters are compact appliances that provide hot water exactly when needed. Unlike traditional water heaters, most models lack a storage tank, heating only the water required. Simply turn on the faucet, and hot water is instantly available—it’s that straightforward.

These units are significantly smaller than conventional water heaters, primarily because they don’t require a tank. This eliminates the need for extensive pipework, making them ideal for sinks or basins located away from typical plumbing areas, such as kitchens or bathrooms. They’re also perfect for heating hot tubs, which are often situated far from standard plumbing. Additionally, on-demand water heaters can be used in kitchens, bathrooms, and laundries, depending on your needs.

From Point-of-Use to Whole-House Solutions

Originally designed for point-of-use applications, tankless water heaters have evolved. Today, an increasing number of models can supply hot water for an entire house. While the water is still available “on demand,” it may not always be at the exact point of use, offering greater flexibility for larger households.

Basic instant water heaters use either an electric heating element or a gas burner. More advanced low-mass water heaters employ cutting-edge technology to deliver significantly higher volumes of hot water. These high-tech, typically gas-fired units feature electronic ignition and power exhaust systems. They can also connect to an external storage tank, enhancing their versatility compared to traditional models.

Advanced Technology for Efficiency

Electric Tankless Water Heaters

Stiebel Eltron, available through GO Tankless (www.gotankless.com), produces leading-edge tankless water heaters popular in North America. Equipped with sensors and microprocessors, their units automatically adjust water flow, pressure, and temperature. The company claims these heaters can reduce water heating costs by up to 50%, making them an eco-friendly choice.

When a Stiebel Eltron tankless water heater is activated by turning on a faucet, the flow sensor detects water movement, triggering the heating elements. Once the faucet is turned off, the unit shuts down, immediately stopping energy consumption. Built to high German engineering standards, these heaters feature durable aluminum cases and copper heating chambers.

Bosch (www.boschhotwater.net) offers two electric tankless water heaters under the PowerStar brand, designed for North American homes. The larger model delivers 3.7 gallons per minute at 105°F, suitable for two sinks simultaneously, a shower, or a bathtub. Alternatively, it provides 3 gallons per minute at 115°F for two sinks or a dishwasher. The smaller model supplies 2.3 gallons per minute at 105°F for a shower, bathtub, or washing machine, or 2 gallons at 115°F for a sink or dishwasher. However, the smaller model is not recommended in regions where groundwater temperatures fall below 60°F, excluding most of Canada and northern U.S. states. Bosch also manufactures an Italian-designed mini-tank point-of-use water heater with a glass-lined tank.

Gas-Powered Tankless Water Heaters

Gas-fired instant water heaters typically offer higher flow rates than electric models, though not all support multiple appliances simultaneously. Installing multiple units can ensure hot water availability for tasks like showering while running a dishwasher or washing machine, often proving more cost-effective than a single unit.

However, gas-fired units with constant pilot lights can waste energy. Operating costs for pilot lights vary, so check with the manufacturer before purchasing. Some models feature intermittent ignition devices that don’t run continuously, or you can manually turn off and relight the pilot light as needed for true “instant” functionality.

Union Gas produces natural gas tankless water heaters. When a faucet is turned on, a flow switch activates the burner, rapidly heating the water to the desired temperature. Once the faucet is turned off, the unit stops heating, conserving energy.

Bosch also manufactures ENERGY STAR-certified gas tankless water heaters capable of supporting at least two hot-water appliances simultaneously. These units are larger than their electric counterparts and feature electronic ignition for efficiency.

Takagi (www.takagi.com), a well-established Japanese company in the North American market for over 15 years, produces gas-powered water heaters with water flow sensors. These sensors trigger automatic ignition, heating water through coils in a heat exchanger in a fraction of a minute. When the faucet is turned off, the unit shuts down instantly.

Energy Savings with Tankless Water Heaters

Still skeptical about tankless water heaters? The U.S. Department of Energy states: “Demand (tankless or instantaneous) water heaters provide hot water only as it is needed. They don’t produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which can save you money.”

Cost Considerations

High-quality on-demand water heaters typically cost more upfront than conventional tank storage models. However, their lower energy and operating costs make them a worthwhile long-term investment. For households seeking efficiency, versatility, and cost savings, tankless water heaters are an excellent option to consider.

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