Most people know soap scum as that frustrating, cloudy residue on shower doors or tubs. Technically, it’s “the substance resulting from the reaction of hardness minerals in water with common household soaps, typically appearing as a bathtub ring or glass shower door film.”

Delving into the chemistry, soap molecules have a “free end” that attracts fat molecules. Essentially, soap scum is a mix of soap and fat, often exacerbated by hard water. Surprisingly, using more soap can reduce soap scum. Most people apply enough soap to clean themselves or dishes but not enough to fully react with all the fat, leaving the freed fat to stick to the tub or sink.

Prevention and Cleaning Solutions

Defining soap scum is straightforward; eliminating it is the challenge. Prevention is a key step. After showering or bathing, wipe down the tub or shower stall. Alternatively, daily shower cleaners can be sprayed on surfaces to prevent buildup. For best results, use this method after a deep clean.

Some users claim switching from fatty bar soaps to liquid body wash gels reduces scum. From personal experience, I agree. However, environmentally conscious individuals might hesitate due to the recycling demands of plastic bottles, making this less appealing for some.

Another preventive approach involves applying furniture or car wax to walls and tubs to repel soap scum. This method doesn’t appeal to me—it seems slippery, and I’d be concerned about wax affecting grout—but some advocate for it.

If prevention fails, you’ll need to tackle existing scum. Its fat content means soap scum can be dissolved by fat-dissolving agents. Many commercial cleaners use sodium hydroxide or ammonia, which are effective but harsh on skin, requiring gloves.

For a gentler option, try Krud Kutter, a non-toxic cleaner with positive reviews. Alternatively, make your own cleaner with household items.

Most commercial removers include an abrasive for scrubbing. You can mimic this by mixing baking soda with water to form a paste. Apply it, let it sit for ten minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

Vinegar is another staple for homemade cleaners. Use it full-strength in a spray bottle, douse the shower or tub, let it sit for a few minutes (longer for stubborn scum), and wipe clean.

Short on time? Dryer sheets have a reputation for removing soap scum. Use them like a rag to wipe surfaces. However, consider the potential health effects of fabric softeners before trying this.

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• Make sure that the pens we put in our pockets have their caps on
• Not buy cheap pens that bleed

Not use our pockets to put pens in (we’d put them on top of our ears like construction workers do)

Alas, this isn’t a perfect world, and as humans we tend to leave our brains behind. That’s why disasters like ink stains happen almost everyday. If we’d venture a guess, we bet our top dollar that an ink stain happens every 1.2 seconds around the world.

There are many suggestions for removing ink stains from clothing. We’ll provide a handful so if the first method doesn’t work, try method 2 and then method 3 and so on. Before removing any ink stains from clothing, read the care labels. There will be pieces of ink-stained clothing that are best left to professional dry cleaners.

Various Methods for Removing Ink Stains from Clothing

Method 1:This is the simplest method. Lay your ink-stained clothing on a white dry towel. Apply a few drops of water to the stain. Let it rest for 5 minutes then gently blot the stain with a white clean rag or cloth. A white blotting cloth is best because it will show you how much ink is coming off. Continue blotting until the stain is completely removed.

Method 2:Follow the same steps in method 1 except this time use hot water.

Method 3:Again, follow the steps in method 1, this time using alcohol. Use a clean white towel to blot off the stain with gentle dabs. The stain should come off and the cloth should be ready for the usual laundering.

Method 4:If none of the first 3 methods work, try using nail polish remover. Gently paint over the stain with the brush. Blot off the stain.

Method 5:
Take detergent powder or liquid and apply on the stained area. Leave for 5 minutes and then rub, causing slight friction. The stain should come off.

Method 6:
This method calls for more “ingredients.” Prepare a clean white cloth (a light-colored one will do as well), bleach, dish-washing detergent, vinegar, alcohol, and water. Mix your water (1 cup) and dish-washing detergent (1 tbsp). Set aside. Rinse the ink-stained spot. Then apply your water/detergent solution on the spot. Add a few drops of vinegar.

Wait 30 minutes. From time to time, blot the stain with your clean cloth. When the 30 minutes are up, rinse the spot which you worked on. Next, put a few drops of alcohol and blot the stain with your clean cloth. Use another area of your cloth to blot so you see how much ink has come off. When dry, add more water and more detergent. If there are still traces of the stain, apply ammonia with a bit of detergent and wait 30 minutes. Rinse.

If the stain is proving to be a stubborn one, use your bleach pen but don’t let the bleach dry on the stain. Wait a few minutes and then rinse with water.

Method 7:
Try using glycerin this time. Rinse the stain with glycerin and then apply a bit of detergent and ammonia. If the stain is still there, use your bleach pen and then rinse completely.

Method 8:The final alternative: use hair spray! Then blot with a cloth or paper towel.

Note that not one method is the best one. A lot will depend on your type of fabric and on your type of ink. The methods above are generally for water-based ink. There are certain types of ink (e.g. dye ink, pigment ink or permanent inks) that will require the use of special agents which only professional cleaners know about. So if you have an expensive fabric and you don’t want to take the chance, let the pros take care of your problem. It will save you precious time and effort plus spare you from frustration.

Removing Ink Stains from Clothing (discussion forums)

Reading about other people’s experiences can also add to our inventory of ideas on how to remove ink stains from clothing. For instance, a famous detergent manufacturer created a discussion forum where everyone can share their tips on removing different kinds of stains. We selected “ink stains” and here are some of the ideas we found:

Apply alcohol on the stain and blot with paper towel. Use Tide Liquid to pre-treat and then launder as usual.

Use OxyClean or Shout.

A bowl of milk? Someone said she soaked the stained spot on a small bowl of milk. It removed most – not all – of the stain so it wasn’t a perfect job.

WD-40 will work like magic according to one poster. Spray on the stain, wait 30-40 minutes then launder as usual.

Use Dawn dish-washing detergent

If you have a permanent black ink stain on a cotton shirt, you’ll need the same ingredients mentioned in the first 7 methods. Permanent blank ink is used by calligraphers so getting a stain from this type of ink is a little different. But it will come off as long as you act quickly.

You’ll need:

A white thick towel (to put right under the stain and to avoid the back of the fabric from getting stained as well. Make sure the towel is thick enough to avoid this contamination or “leak.”), hairspray, alcohol, baking soda, acetone (nail polish remover), cotton balls or Q-tips.

Lay your cotton shirt on a flat surface and put the thick towel underneath the stain (not under the shirt). Squirt some hairspray into the stain. Wait for a minute and then blot the stain with cotton (do not rub). Hairspray contains certain chemicals that will loosen the stain particles. If the stain persists, dab the stain with alcohol using a cotton ball or Q-tip. Keep repeating this step until the stain comes off.

If your efforts are not paying off, mix water and baking soda to make a loose paste and apply on stain. Blot, blot, blot.

Last resort: use nail polish remover.

For ink stains that are old, try Oxy-Clean. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and then launder as usual!

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Better to be safe than sorry. After all, we’ve heard stories about how the regular use of bleach in the home can lead to respiratory problems, headaches, dizziness, and even diminishing mental clarity. We even read online that a boy’s handwriting became erratic; he could not concentrate on his homework because he was inhaling the bleach from the vents in his bedroom which was connected to the laundry room.

So how do we bring back that sparkling white and shine to our clothes without using bleach?

1. Lemons, anyone? On a good day when lemons are overflowing on the shelves of our local supermarket, and are selling for 99 cents/dozen, why not purchase a bagful and leave some aside for your laundry needs. When you have soiled laundry and need to whiten it, cut up some lemons and throw them into a tub of hot water. Let them soak for an hour or two and then wash them as you would normally do. For badly-soiled clothes, boil some water and soak your clothes with several slices of lemons. Leave them overnight. Next morning, wash them and then smell that clean! And they’ll come out brighter too!
2. Baking soda – it’s amazing that what we keep in our kitchen cupboards can also be stored in the laundry room. Throw a cupful of baking soda into the wash and enjoy the whiteness and hygienic smell of your clothes. Baking soda does a wonderful job of maintaining pH balance because it neutralizes acids and bases. It works well when you also want to eliminate odors from the kitchen and your shoe cabinet. This inexpensive solution is a true deodorizer and cleanser; we have yet to hear about any adverse effects it can potentially cause. So go ahead, whiten your clothes without using bleach because baking soda is all you’ll ever need.
3. Natural sunshine should do it, folks – this seems to be a frequent advice from people who believe in hanging their clothes out in the sun to make them brighter and cleaner. It’s your natural vitamin D at work! We’re bombarded everyday with ads about “the fresh smell of spring” and “mountain air cleanness” which commercial products promise to deliver, so we tend to forget that Mother Nature can do as good a job if not better. Besides, by line drying our clothes, not only will they appear whiter, but they’ll last longer as well. So let the sun and wind caress your clothes back to their original color!
4. White vinegar for whiter clothes – here’s another inexpensive way to whiten your clothes without using bleach. When you start a wash, use your detergent as usual but add ½ cup to 1 cup of white vinegar. Don’t worry about the smell. It will be there only initially. Once you put your clothes into the dryer, the vinegar smell will disappear and your clothes will come out cleaner, whiter, and safer to wear. Vinegar is a powerful disinfectant. We use it to clean our coffee brewers once every quarter and it beats using dishwashing liquid. It does the same for your clothes. In fact, another tip is to substitute your regular fabric softener with white vinegar.
5. Dishwashing liquid – many homemakers have said how they’ve used dishwashing liquid when they ran out of laundry detergent, but be careful about how much you put in. You might get a laundry room filled with floating suds! To whiten your clothes, pour about ¼ cup of dishwashing liquid into the tub along with your regular laundry detergent. Use warm water. Dishwashing liquid apparently has some whitening chemicals in them. Someone also suggested Cascade which she calls a great detergent booster that never fails.

Safe Homemade Bleach

If you no longer wish to use Clorox because you’re concerned about your family’s health, you can make your own homemade bleach. We did our homework and found one “recipe” you can try.

Ingredients:

• 1-1/2 cups of hydrogen peroxide – you can buy hydrogen peroxide from any drug store
• Fresh lemons – about five tablespoons
• ½ gallon of lukewarm water

Procedure:

Mix all three ingredients but do not overmix. Just make sure they’re blended well. Pour this mixture into individual glass containers with tight lids. Stick date labels on each container. They’ll be effective for three months. When you run out, make a new batch. Use this homemade bleach the same way you used your old bleach product.

Word of caution: use only 3% hydrogen peroxide. This is the percentage that’s sold by retailers. Make sure this percentage is stated on the label. Anything higher can be dangerous for home and health.

Hydrogen peroxide works best on white clothing but you may want to try using it on darker clothes…with caution.

For dark color clothing, the combination of vinegar and baking soda is effective. Use 1 cup of vinegar and ¼ cup of baking soda and pour them straight into your clothes when you turn on your washer. Since vinegar is acid, it “eats” away at the stains, dirt and grime. The baking soda will produce a bubbling action which will boost the action of the vinegar, leaving your clothes disinfected, squeaky clean, and cloudy white!

“Now they show you how detergents take out bloodstains, a pretty violent image there. I think if you’ve got a T-shirt with a bloodstain all over it, maybe laundry isn’t your biggest problem. Maybe you should get rid of the body before you do the wash.”
(Jerry Seinfeld)

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You obviously want to keep that beautiful red color on your lips and not on your beau’s collar, but that’s hard to do sometimes. And unfortunately, when your lipstick ends up somewhere it doesn’t belong, you’re probably engaged in a social situation. You may not notice the stain or you may not have time to deal with it. But the sooner you confront that smudge, the better. You don’t want to give it a second to sink into the fabric. Even if the lipstick stain is let off the hook for a period of time, however, that doesn’t mean there’s not hope.

So here’s what you should do when you discover a rosy smudge of lipstick on a shirt:

First off, gently dab the lipstick stain. But not with mere water. Instead, apply an alcohol swab to the fabric. If you don’t have alcohol on hand, however, cold water will do.

Now, you can really attack that stain! Grab less than a handful of clothes detergent and and with just one finger, rub it into that annoying blotch. Remember that certain detergents are more adept to chase away those lipstick stains, as lipstick is oil-based; thus, products that fight grease specifically are ideal. Dawn detergent is great for fighting lipstick.

Your lip-stick stained clothes are now ready to be tossed in the clothes washer. Use the normal settings for washing and drying; however, if you have the time, wash the fabric with your hands in warm, soapy water and don’t stick the shirt in the machine dryer either. It’s probably better that you let the air dry it, rather than the machine.

There are two other home remedies that are largely unknown. Both ammonia and hairspray sometimes do the trick! If you choose to get at the stain with hairspray, let the spray sit on the stain for about 10 minutes before you wipe the stain away and then finally wash the clothes.

Here are some important things to keep in mind as you try to kiss goodbye that lipstick stain. First of all, a gentle touch is key. If you rub the stain, you might simply rub it more deeply into the fabric! So don’t get too aggressive; patience is important.

As well, if you have a garment that’s labeled “dry clean only,” don’t bother with any of this! In fact, if you do, you’ll only make it harder on the dry cleaners when you do finally surrender and ask them to handle the pesky blotch.

If none of these tips work for you, you might just have to give in and make a trip to the dry cleaners. If you want to be assured that the stain is taken care of, talk to your dry cleaner about your specific problem.

But if you still are insistent on doing it yourself, there are other mightier products you can turn to that will scare those stains silly. Some fabric cleaners are designed to combat oil-based stains, so in addition to making those lipstick stains disappear, stains from crayons, tar, paint, and even chewing gum can be removed with them. (Clearly, clothes aren’t these cleaner’s only concern! Nothing is off limits really, from carpets to construction tools, these products are miracle workers.) One example of this is the popular Motsenbocker’s Lift Off #2. But there are others, like Xenit and Kleen-Touch. With many of these commercial products, you will still use the steps listed above; but at least this time around, you’ll have a little extra help on hand!

So, now you can apply that lipstick as liberally as you like, without worrying about it traveling to places it doesn’t belong. After all, you’ve got a game plan to chase off those nasty stains if it does! And they really aren’t impossible to get rid of as you might have originally thought. As long as know what to do, you will be in control and your clothes will always be fresh and clean.

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The only problem with regular use of bleach is that it can weaken fabrics and make them dull-looking because their colors tend to fade faster.

The general rule of thumb: read your clothing labels before using bleach. If the label says “do not bleach”, skip it!

But what is bleach exactly?

Answer: it is a chemical that whitens or removes stains through the process of oxidation. Bleach oxidizes the food stains (breaks them down into smaller components) so the stains come off more easily.

Types of Bleach

Most people are familiar with the two kinds of bleach:

Chlorine bleach – perhaps the most effective kind of bleach in the market these days. It contains about 5% of sodium hypochloride. Given its powerful action, it should first be diluted before it comes in contact with fabric. It comes in powder and liquid form. Liquid is more popular among bleach users. Chlorine bleach is also used to disinfect and sanitize other household items like kitchen counter tops and toilets.

All fabric bleach or oxygen bleach – this is bleach that is strictly for clothing, although people have used it to clean surfaces with some success. Oxygen bleach is less toxic than chlorine bleach. Even if it is labeled “all fabric” people have used it to disinfect surfaces in the home because of its hydrogen peroxide content. Two popular brands are Clorox and Legacy of Clean. The manufacturer of Legacy of Clean states that no chlorine is used because it harnesses the power of oxygen and minerals to whiten clothes and remove stains. It will also not irritate skin because it is dermatologically tested. This type of all-fabric bleach does not contain phosphates or other chemicals considered harmful to the environment. There are good reviews online for Legacy of Clean all fabric bleach. Oxygen bleach is best when used with hot water.

Using Bleach to Whiten Clothing: Instructions

Step 1: read the clothing label. If bleaching is allowed, go on to step 2.

Step 2: read the bleach manufacturer’s instructions. You will need to dilute the bleach as instructed.

Step 3: Turn on the wash cycle and then add your usual laundry detergent.

Step 4: When the wash cycle has been activated, wait five minutes and then add your bleach. The bleach has to blend well with the water and soap. Add it when the water turns soapy. Put in your clothes. (Note: it is important that the bleach is not applied directly on clothing).

Step 5: Let the laundry cycle finish.

Step 6: As soon as the laundry cycle is complete, check immediately for any color changes. If you notice any changes, rinse immediately by hand or repeat the laundry cycle without adding any detergent or bleach.

Tips for Using Bleach to Whiten Clothing

First tip: If you don’t use bleach to white your clothes that often, buy a smaller jug. Liquid chlorine bleach has a limited shelf life – six months maximum. If you use bleach that is more than six months old, it may not remove the stains as effectively.

Second tip: There is no conclusive evidence that chlorine bleach is harmful to health – although we would not recommend that you sniff it or put it in direct contact with skin too often. There was some controversy 30 years ago about the presence of dioxins which are byproducts of the chemical manufacturing process. Chlorine bleach does not contain dioxins because dioxins only come about in gaseous states. Be cautious, however because chlorine gas can form if it comes into contact with acid. This is why some chlorine product labels warn against combining chlorine with say, toilet bowl cleaners, or any products that contain acid.

Third tip: to make whites whiter, do as the Dutch did in the Middle Ages. Let your bleached clothes dry out in the sun. History tells us that the Netherlands pioneered a process called crofting. Crofting is carried out by spreading out fabrics in large open spaces for maximum exposure to the sun. In fact, Scottish textile manufacturers would ship their fabrics to Netherlands for bleaching. This process was common well before the Swedes discovered chlorine in 1774.

Fourth tip: if you’re looking for chlorine that also disinfects and kills germs, read the labels carefully. Some chlorine products will say “disinfects and kills germs.” If this does not appear on the label, don’t expect your chlorine bleach to disinfect. The Clorox line of products has a bleach that also disinfects.

Fifth tip: Chlorine bleach is chlorine, which means it is the same chlorine in your pool and in your drinking water. But if you don’t want chlorine in your water, put your drinking water in a container with a loose cover and let it stay in the refrigerator for a couple of days. The chlorine will disappear.

Sixth tip: never mix your bleach with ammonia. It will produce toxic fumes which will make you ill.

Seventh tip: to test for fabric safety because the clothing label has been torn off, mix one part bleach to two parts warm water. Using a Q-tip, apply this on an area of the fabric that is not visible – like an inside seam or the inside folds in the collar. Let it dry. If the fabric changes color, do NOT use bleach on this fabric!

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Laundry! For many parents, it can quickly become the one household chore that never seems to end. The moment you finish one load—folding and putting it away—a hamper in the bathroom starts to overflow with stinky socks and soiled clothes.

According to Proctor & Gamble, the average family washes between 300 and 400 loads of laundry per year. This equates to nearly 7 loads per week. However, if you have multiple children or kids who participate in extracurricular activities, you’re likely washing anywhere from 10 to 15 loads per week. No matter how much you encourage your children to air-dry towels instead of throwing them in the hamper, or to hang up clothes that are still clean instead of tossing them into a pile on the floor, chances are your teen isn’t listening. This raises the question: should your teen wash their own clothing? Would requiring them to take charge of their laundry be a responsible way to teach them self-care, and possibly encourage them to be less careless with tossing clothes in the laundry basket?

The Benefits of Teen Laundry Responsibility

The reality is that with today’s modern washing machines and dryers, laundry isn’t much of a chore anymore. What truly feels like a chore is sorting the clothes, drying them, removing them from the dryer, and putting them away before they become a wrinkled, haggard mess. One of the main reasons to enlist your teen’s help with laundry is that it teaches them how to follow through on tasks. For example, it’s one thing to simply throw clothes in the washing machine with detergent and press a button to start the cycle, but it’s another to remember to remove them before they turn musty, dry them, and put them away.

Moreover, your children will eventually be responsible for themselves. Raising a child who can’t even wash their own clothes is not preparing them for life. Laundry is a task that won’t change much over the decades. If a teenager can manage the intricate technology of a computer, smartphone, or even master a tricky video game, they are certainly capable of learning how to use a washer and dryer.

Additionally, making your child responsible for all of their laundry will help them appreciate the clean clothes you’ve provided for them over the years. It won’t take long before your teen realizes that laundry is an ongoing task. Due to their naturally “slacker” tendencies, your teen will likely come up with creative ways to minimize the amount of laundry they have to do. Who knows? They might reuse the same hair towel after every shower for a week, or they might be more careful about spilling spaghetti sauce on their favorite shirt or staining their jeans with grass and red clay—especially when they realize that mom and dad won’t be there to do it for them.

Your child is fully capable of handling laundry duties by the age of 10 to 12. When you first assign them this responsibility, it’s important to set up a workable system. Provide them with their own laundry basket in their room, so they aren’t tempted to toss their clothes in your hamper when it’s overflowing. If you prefer to sort laundry by color, invest in a hamper with three sections, so they can separate the loads. Next, prepare an informational sheet that guides them on which clothes to wash in hot or cold water. Modern washers are relatively easy to navigate, and many of them make it simple to choose the right wash cycle. Lastly, hand the job over completely. Once you’ve shown them how to use the equipment and given them the necessary information, let it go. If they wake up one day with no clean underwear for school, that’s not your problem! Going to school without underwear, or wearing dirty jeans or a smelly shirt, is an important lesson in responsibility for your teen.

Laundry truly is a family affair. While you might not want your 5- or 6-year-old touching your expensive washer and dryer, the truth is they can still help with laundry duties. Kids can be empowered to sort laundry, reuse towels when necessary, put dirty laundry in hampers, and even help unload the washer and dryer or fold and put away clothes. If you get them involved from a young age, by the time they’re 10, they’ll likely be able to handle laundry responsibilities on their own—and may even help you with your laundry! This will make the family’s operation run more smoothly and save you from weekends spent facing a mountain of laundry.

The Bottom Line

Everyone wears the clothes and uses the towels, sheets, and covers in the home, so EVERYONE should take part in caring for them. If you’re not handing over some of the responsibility to your kids, you have little room to complain—because THEY ARE CAPABLE!

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The second step is to identify the type of stain. Different stains require different treatments and products. This should be easy, as anyone can recognize ketchup stains from butter stains, or wine stains from grape juice stains.

Perhaps we should have said three steps. The third step, of course, is to act quickly! As soon as your clothing gets a stain, don’t let it dry and settle. The longer the stain is left untreated, the harder it will be to remove.

While we recommend taking stained velvets and silks to a dry cleaner, you can remove stains from other types of fabrics with products already in your cupboard and laundry room.

So let’s get right down to removing stains from clothing that you can do yourself:

Stains on Leather

People often think that when leather is stained, a professional should remove it. Not necessarily. You can remove stains from leather with club soda and an old, clean toothbrush. Simply scrub the stain with the toothbrush in a back-and-forth motion using gentle strokes.

Gum Stains

If the piece of gum has been sitting on the fabric for a long time, try freezing it. Once it’s rock hard, gently scrape away at the gum bit by bit. If that doesn’t work, try the second method: apply egg white directly to the stain.

Ketchup Stains

This is one type of stain where you need to act quickly. Glycerine, a bit of detergent, and water should do the trick. Follow these steps:

• Run cold water over the stain. Some people find that running water from behind the stain is more effective, as it helps push the stain out.
• Gently rub a bit of detergent onto the stain.
• If the fabric is white and you’ve tested it for colorfastness, use a few drops of vinegar and sponge-rub the stain. You can also use hydrogen peroxide or fresh lemon juice.
• Apply detergent again until the ketchup disappears.
• If the stain persists, use a stain remover stick, gel, or spray and leave it on for five minutes. Launder as usual.
• If the stain is still there, don’t despair. Rub detergent on the stain, soak the fabric in warm water for 30 minutes, and rinse well.
• If the stain remains, visit your dry cleaner. Inform them of the steps you’ve already taken so they can assist you further.

Butter Stains

Butter is one of those stubborn stains that can easily frustrate us. But if there’s a will, there’s a way. The method is simple: you’ll need a sponge, warm water, your usual shampoo, and a grease solvent (people have used WD-40, which works as a great degreaser on clothing, but be sure to test it on a small spot first). Spray the grease solvent on the stain and let it dry. Then, soak your sponge in warm water and gently rub the stain, adding a bit of shampoo. Lift the stain off with the sponge.

Blood Stains

For fresh blood stains on non-washable fabric, blot the stains with a damp sponge soaked in cold water. The sponge should be damp, not soaking wet. If you acted quickly when the blood stain occurred, this method should do the trick. If the stains persist, use a few drops of ammonia with a spotter (but don’t use ammonia on wool or silk as it will ruin the fabric). Then dry the fabric.

For blood stains on washable fabric, fresh stains will come off easily when laundered in the usual manner. If the stains have set, try soaking the fabric in warm water with dishwashing or laundry detergent and ammonia for 15 minutes. Then, launder as usual.

Chocolate Stains

Chocolate stains are easier to handle once they have dried on clothing. Speed up this process by placing the garment in the fridge. Once the chocolate has hardened, remove the garment from the fridge and begin scraping away at the chocolate with a knife (be careful not to tear the fabric). Use the hottest water you can get and run it from behind the stain to push the chocolate out. Apply detergent to the stain and leave it for 10 minutes. Fold the fabric over the stain and rub it to create agitation and friction. Rinse with hot water. No more chocolate!

Coffee Stains

To remove coffee stains, rinse the area with cold water from behind the stain. Apply a few drops of liquid detergent directly to the stain and leave it on for 10 minutes. If the coffee stain is old, let the detergent sit for about 30 minutes. Then, rinse thoroughly.

If the coffee stains persist, soak the fabric in warm water for 10-15 minutes with liquid detergent. Alternatively, apply a stain remover or gel/spray and let it sit for 5 minutes. Launder as usual (but be sure to read the washing instructions first!).

There’s another way to remove coffee stains from clothing, but it’s a bit more cumbersome. If you spill black coffee, dab it quickly with cold water. Place an absorbent cloth underneath the stain so that when you rub it, the stain doesn’t spread to other parts of the fabric. Sprinkle baking soda over the stain to absorb excess moisture, and then remove the excess baking soda. Mix one cup of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of dishwashing or laundry detergent, and ½ cup of cold water. Soak a cloth or sponge in the mixture and gently dab it onto the coffee stain. Avoid rubbing too vigorously. Let it stand for 15 minutes, then launder as usual (and remember to check the care label!).

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Respect for the environment and the preservation of natural resources — that’s the mantra governing our lives these days. And this mantra could very well save our planet, allowing future generations to enjoy the bounty of Mother Nature, as the saying goes.

Characteristics of Energy-Efficient Washing Machines

The Energy Star® label is prominently displayed on most appliances and household goods. It’s the internationally recognized symbol that signifies the product has passed government standards for Energy Star® certification. Enlightened consumers who purchase anything from simple electric switches to major appliances now look for this symbol as a way of saying, “Yes, we care about the environment.”

But beyond the Energy Star® symbol, what makes washing machines energy-efficient? What are their key characteristics?

A visit to the government’s natural resources website gives us an idea of what to look for when buying energy-efficient washing machines. It also provides a list of Energy Star®-certified washing machines available at local appliance retailers.

In 1990, washing machines were “energy-holics,” consuming up to 1,218 kilowatt hours per year. By 2003, that number decreased to 883. But did you know that machines with the Energy Star® sticker consume only 296 kilowatt hours per year? When you compare this with 1,218 and 883, it becomes clear why you’d want to own the most energy-efficient appliances, even if it means paying a little extra for them.

When Shopping for Energy-Efficient Washing Machines, Look for These Features:

• Flexible water fill controls
• More options for cold water rinsing
• For the “warm” setting, use less hot water and more cold water
• Good mixing valves
• Increased spinning speed
• Does it use Ultrasonic technology?
• Energy Star® sticker — meaning the machine uses 40% less water and 50% less energy, requiring less detergent.

Before buying your next washing machine, ask the sales representative if there are additional water controls or if the machine includes a small load basket. This allows you to use less water for smaller laundry loads.

Also, inquire about the machine’s EnerGuide rating. The lowest rating is usually the best. The EnerGuide black-and-white label is a Government of Canada initiative that provides five key points about the product:

• Average energy consumption in kilowatt hours per year
• Energy efficiency rating of the appliance compared to similar models
• Annual energy consumption range for models of the same type and size
• Type and size of the model
• Model number

The EnerGuide label is often displayed on appliances alongside the Energy Star® symbol.

Tips for Buying Energy-Efficient Washing Machines

Tip #1: Consider front-load machines. While they may be a bit more awkward because you have to bend to load laundry, they are huge energy savers. One reason is that they don’t have agitators; instead, gravity does the work when the tub spins. This also reduces wear and tear on your clothes.

Tip #2: If you’re single and don’t generate large laundry loads, consider compact-size machines. They use less water.

Tip #3: Look for machines equipped with sensors. These sensors “read” the load size and automatically select the appropriate water amount for the wash.

Tip #4: Look for machines with advanced high-speed motors. These reduce spinning time by extracting more water from clothes in less time, cutting down on the energy required to dry them in the dryer.

Tip #5: If your family generates a lot of laundry, buy a large-capacity machine. This allows you to wash more clothes per load and reduce the frequency of doing laundry. While large-capacity washers may use more energy, you’ll cut down on the number of laundry cycles per week because you can wash more clothes at once, instead of repeating full cycles.

Tip #6: Select machines that offer several programmed cycles and water levels. These options help save two valuable resources: electricity and water. For example, if your clothes aren’t very dirty, choose a gentle cycle. If you have a small load, select “small” for less water usage. This way, the machine won’t waste time filling the tub to its maximum capacity. Additionally, choose a machine with a load sensor — it does the thinking for you and adjusts water levels accordingly.

Tip #7: Be selective about washing temperatures. If your clothes are not very dirty or have no stains, opt for cold water. Washing at 40°C instead of 60°C can save you a third of your energy.

Tip #8: Choose a horizontal-axis washer. These machines can wring more water out, shortening the drying cycle and reducing the energy used.

Washing Machine Brands with Energy Star® Status

This is a partial list of brands you can consider that offer Energy Star®-certified models:

• Admiral
• Amana
• Bosch
• Eurotec
• General Electric
• Hotpoint
• Inglis
• Kelvinator
• Kirkland
• Kitchen Aid
• LG
• Samsung
• Whirlpool

…and many more!

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“Why?” her mother asked absent-mindedly, also eyeing the machine.

“Because it looks so techno, so cool, so colorful. Why don’t we put it right smack in the living room so it can be a good conversation starter when we have guests?”

“Silly you.” The mother said, laughing. “I do want to buy it but it’ll have to go to the laundry room.” At that point she motioned to a sales clerk to rattle off the list of questions she had prepared about front loading washing machines.

Front Loading Washing Machines: the Facts

1. People would consider buying a front loading washing machine because it is more energy efficient. It uses less energy, less water and cleans clothes better. Less energy is consumed because front loading washing machines do not have an agitator. It relies on gravity to generate movement when the tub is in motion.
2. Front loading washing machines have come a long way. When they first appeared in the market in the 70s, they had design flaws and mechanical weaknesses, but all these problems have since been addressed. For example, one complaint was the growth of mold. This is no longer an issue because all you need is to read the manufacturer’s instructions regarding proper care of your machine. To avoid mold, leave the door open for a couple of hours when you’re not using your machine.
3. Front loading washing machines cost more. Instead of the $350.00-$550.00 you would normally pay for a top load, front load models can be double that price. It is, without any doubt, a major investment, so choose carefully. This is where consumer reviews will come in handy. One reason they are expensive has to do with production costs. Since new energy-efficient components are integrated into their design, adjustments and upgrades had to be made to the production process. The good news, however, is that like flat screen TVs and hi-tech computer monitors, they will come down in price as demand for them increases.
4. Unlike in the past where models were few, you now have several choices for a front loading washing machine. They come stackable (great for condos, apartments and townhomes), in more colors (we’ve seen some reds and avocado greens in the store) and have a visually-pleasing design to liven up the “drab and dirt” of your laundry room.
5. Front loading washing machines are now available with added features. For instance, back in the days when they were just coming off the assembly line, you could not open them once a wash cycle starts. A few today’s models come with an “add-a-garment” feature. This means you can stop the machine, add a last-minute dirty item and not worry about water seeping out. And hear this. Georgiana Bobolicu, an editor who reviews electronic gadgets online, says that a few models now come with a USB port or wi-fi feature so you can connect to Facebook and tell your friends that you’re doing a woman’s best loved chore – laundry!
6. Front loading washing machines have spin speeds as high as 1,000-1,200 rpm. The advantage is that with greater spin speeds, more water is sucked out of the clothes, cutting the drying time. If you have several loads, quicker drying times translate to lower load congestion, sparing you the wait time to put the next load into the dryer.
7. Front loading washing machines come with sensors and controls that will automaticaaly determine cycle, running time, water temperature, once you set a button to the type of fabric you are washing. If you choose “cotton”, for example, the machine will decide for you the cycle, run time, water temperature and level, and spin speed. Do bear in mind that the more options you want, the more it’s going to cost you.

Popular Brands of Front Loading Washing Machines

If you’re ready to shop for a front loading washing machine, you’ll be happy to know that prices range from the low end to mid-range all the way up the top of the line models.

The list of brands below are approximate prices. Our research tells us that a particular brand may fall in the low-end price range and also in the high-end price range. You’ll find an LG brand in the low end but then another LG model would fall in the top price bracket, so make sure you ask about the models available in each brand. Price will depend on the model number and the number of features you want. Most of the top end range front loading washing machines are European brands.

These are a few examples:

Low range prices:

Frigidaire $460.00 – $549.00
LG $599.00 – $1,000.00
GE $602.00 – $1,090.00
Maytag $672.00 – $870.00

Mid range prices:

Bosch $1,089.00 – $1,410
Samsung $985.00 – $1,295.00
Equator $930.00 – $1,456.00

High end prices:

Electrolux $1,349.00 – $1,599.00
Miele about $2,100
Asko about $2,199.00
Things to Consider: Front Load Washing Machines

The first consideration is of course cost. If you can afford paying more for a high-energy efficient front loading washing machine, then go for it. You’ll be saving on energy bills because front load washines have higher spin rates, use less water, and use less energy. The initial cash outlay may be substantial but over the long term, you’ll be saving more dollars.

If you have can’t bend because of back or leg problems, don’t buy a front loading washer. If you’re doing several loads in each laundry session, the frequent bending might be physically awkward. You could probably set them up on planks to minimize bending but the top of the washer may be too high for you to fold clothes on.

Some front load washing machines require the use of special high efficiency detergents. This is because they use less water and there are no agitators so a special detergent is required to ensure your clothes are washed to perfection. Some manufacturers of front load washers and other high efficiency appliances will recommend that you only HE detergents (also called high efficiency detergents). There is a reason for this. HE detergents come in the form of concentrate and are low-sudsing which are great for washers that use very little water. A word of caution: when buying HE detergents, look for the letters “HE” on the label. They’re easy to miss. These letters mean that the detergent is only to be used in front load washers or high efficiency appliances. Some consumers have absent-mindedly put an HE detergent into their shopping cart thinking they were for regular washing machines and were disappointed that it produced very little sudsing.

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The best stain remover—and the most natural—is, of course, water. But sometimes, you need more than water. Some clothes were never meant to be washed with ordinary water and detergent. That’s why we have clothing labels. For example, while chlorine bleach is considered a standard stain remover, some manufacturers advise, “Do not use chlorine bleach” on their labels. For those of you who live in winter climates, many wool garments are labeled “dry clean only.” Therefore, the basic lesson about stain removers is: always read the manufacturer’s label before attempting to remove stains!

Types of Stains

After considering the type of fabric, the next step is to identify the type of stain. There are four general categories of stains:

Category 1: Protein Stains

Protein stains can typically be soaked in cold water and then laundered. You can soak the stained clothes and, if necessary, rub them vigorously. Do not use warm or hot water, as this could cause the stain to coagulate, making it more difficult to remove.

Examples of protein stains include blood, milk, mucus, egg, urine, ice cream, school glue, cream, cheese sauce, gelatin, and other protein-based foods.

If the protein stain has dried and is several days old, try scraping off as much of the stain as possible using your nails or another object (be careful!) and then soak it in cold water. After soaking, wash the fabric in warm water. If the stain persists, soak it again for another 30 minutes and then rewash.

Category 2: Oil Stains

Examples of oil stains include lard, car grease, suntan lotion, cosmetic creams and lotions, butter, margarine, bacon fat, mayonnaise, and other oil-based stains.

Oil stains can usually be removed with a strong, heavy-duty detergent and hot water. You can also pre-treat the clothing using petroleum-based aerosols or a pump-type spray, which are commercially available. These products, along with heavy-duty detergents, are effective. Simply load the stained clothing into your washer. If the stain is not removed in the first wash, repeat the pre-treatment and wash again.

Category 3: Tannin Stains

Examples of tannin stains include alcoholic beverages (including beer), coffee, tea, fruit juice, tomato juice, berries, and soda.

If the manufacturer’s label says “machine washable,” effective stain removers for tannin stains are detergent and hot water (as long as the label allows the use of hot water). Avoid using bar soap or natural soap detergents, as they can make these stains more difficult to remove. Older tannin stains may require bleach to achieve satisfactory results.

Category 4: Dye Stains

Examples of dye stains include those caused by felt-tip pens or markers, grass, Kool-Aid, tincture, India ink, mustard, and some tempera paints. These stains are usually the most difficult to remove. The use of a heavy-duty detergent with a thorough rinsing is recommended.

Common Stain Removers

Water – Water is Mother Nature’s gift to you. It’s one of the best solvents and stain removers. If you act quickly, water can be the only stain remover you need, depending on the type of stain. When your clothes get a stain, pat a kitchen towel over the stain to absorb any residual liquid. Soak the fabric in warm (not hot) water. You can also use soda water or sparkling water. Never rub too vigorously; gentle dabbing should suffice.

Glycerine – Glycerine is a by-product of soap manufacturing and can be effective in removing stains. You can find glycerine at your local drugstore.

Turpentine – Turpentine is a good stain remover, especially for oil stains. It works not only on fabric but also on paint brushes.

Borax – Many housewives swear by borax for removing tough stains, particularly those caused by eggs. You can buy borax or make your own. Alternatively, saltwater works as well. To treat an egg stain, first scrape off the dried stain with a dull blade. Then soak the fabric in borax. To make your own borax solution, mix 1 ounce of borax with 1 pint (500 ml) of cold water in a container. Shake the mixture well, then apply a few drops to the stain. Let it dry before washing the fabric.

Other Known Stain Removers – Saltwater is also effective. For fresh blood stains, soak the fabric in cold salty water. For other protein-based dried stains, mix a small amount of ammonia with cold water and soak the fabric. Ink stains, often found on your spouse’s or kids’ shirt pockets, can be treated by spraying hair spray directly on the stain. Wait a few minutes, then throw the garment in the washer.

For leather garments, petroleum jelly can help remove stains. Simply apply a drop of jelly over the stain, wait a few days, then gently wipe it off. The stain should disappear along with the jelly.

Chocolate stains, a common household issue, can be removed with warm soapy water, borax solution, or glycerine. Soak the fabric in glycerine for 30 minutes, then rinse.

As for those embarrassing yellow underarm stains, soak the fabric in an enzyme-based soaking product or rub it with white vinegar. Then, wash the fabric at the hottest but safest temperature. If the stains remain, try wetting the fabric and applying some meat tenderizer before washing it again.

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