Bleeding in the lower intestines, such as the colon and rectum, generally causes hematochezia. It is characterized by the presence of bright, fresh blood in the feces. Hematochezia should not be confused with melena, which refers to the passage of dark, tar-colored feces, caused by bleeding higher up in the intestinal tract.

If your cat has blood in its stool only once and otherwise appears to be eating, drinking, and acting normally, the cause may simply be a minor gastrointestinal upset. This could be due to overeating, eating unfamiliar food, or consuming something that doesn’t agree with them. Some cats are especially sensitive to stress, and any sudden environmental changes—such as adding a new pet, having a baby, or altering their routine—can induce colitis. Sudden changes in food brands can also cause this condition, as cats often require a gradual transition to avoid complications.

However, if your cat has repeated episodes of blood in the stool, appears lethargic or depressed, or the blood is accompanied by diarrhea or vomiting, it may indicate a more severe medical issue requiring veterinary attention.

Common Causes of Blood in Cat Stool

The most common cause of blood in the stool in cats is colitis, or inflammation of the colon. Colitis can be a symptom of various gastrointestinal disorders, and identifying the underlying cause of the inflammation can be challenging.

When colitis occurs, inflammation in the colon causes the cells in the intestinal lining to separate, becoming permeable and allowing water and secretions to leak out. Gut motility is affected, along with the colon’s ability to absorb water and store feces. This leads to frequent diarrhea, often with mucus and blood, as the food in the intestines passes through the colon before nutrients and water can be absorbed by the body.

Aside from blood in the stool, cats with colitis will defecate frequently, producing very little stool, and will strain repeatedly in the litterbox. Since the biggest complication of colitis is rapid dehydration, veterinary attention should be sought any time your cat has blood in its stool and diarrhea. Your veterinarian can treat the dehydration and help identify and treat the underlying causes.

Parasites are a common cause of colitis and bloody stools in kittens. Kittens typically acquire roundworms through the milk of an infected mother. Adult cats can acquire the parasite by eating a rodent or other animal that is infected. These long, spaghetti-like parasites can cause severe symptoms in young animals, including vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stools, and coughing and gagging. If left untreated, these worms can cause pneumonia, intestinal obstructions, and death.

Protozoa infections, such as Giardia and Coccidia, occur when a single-celled parasite is ingested via contaminated soil, food, or water. These parasites can cause a range of gastrointestinal issues, from an occasional bout of soft stools to a severe episode of vomiting, diarrhea, and hematochezia.

In unvaccinated cats and kittens, feline Panleukopenia can be a devastating disease. Also known as feline distemper, Panleukopenia is caused by the parvovirus and is highly contagious. It is particularly concerning in shelters, catteries, and boarding facilities where it can remain active and infectious in the environment for months or even years. This virus is especially dangerous to kittens whose immune systems are not fully developed, and it can cause a high fever, vomiting, nasal discharge, respiratory signs, diarrhea, hematochezia, dehydration, and death.

In older cats, one of the main concerns associated with hematochezia is inflammatory bowel disease (IBD). Cats with IBD develop a chronic level of inflammatory cells in their gastrointestinal tract, which can affect the mucosa of different areas: the small intestine (enteritis), colon (colitis), and stomach (gastritis).

Unlike colitis caused by temporary intestinal upsets, cats with IBD experience an ongoing inflammatory response in their intestines that does not resolve. The exact causes are unknown, but they have been linked to food sensitivities, bacteria in the intestinal tract, and immune system dysfunctions.

If left untreated, IBD can lead to poor digestion and nutrient absorption, as well as abdominal discomfort. Over time, the chronic inflammation can cause scarring of the mucosa, and studies have shown that this scarring often leads to the development of lymphoma, a type of cancer, in the intestines.

Blood in the stool can also be attributed to more external causes, such as trauma to the rectum, anal gland abscesses, or tumors and polyps in the rectum.

The post My Cat has Blood in its Stool – What Should I Do? appeared first on .

Just like with humans, reducing food intake alone may not be enough to curb the problem, especially if it has been ongoing for years. Besides putting your cat on a diet, they will need an increase in stimulation and physical exercise.

Addressing Feline Obesity and Its Risks

A high-fat content in any animal is not healthy. Just like humans, felines and other creatures that are obese run the risk of heart disease, joint and back problems, diabetes, and the complications that come with these issues. Obesity can shorten an animal’s lifespan by three to seven years. So, if your furry friend is carrying around a few extra pounds, it’s important to not only adjust their diet but also promote a healthier lifestyle.

Start with the extras. Just like with humans, meals are often not the culprit of the extra weight. Snacking too much between meals is the fastest way for your kitten to plump up. Cat treats are often a good source of iron and essential fatty acids that cats need in order to experience good health. However, a bag of treats per day is like a human eating a whole package of cookies throughout the day. Cutting out those calories alone can often help Fuzzy tone down. Adding just one fifteen-minute play session to his day can help develop muscle tone and burn fat. But when he turns into the buff envy of the alley, don’t let him return to old habits, or he may begin a feline version of yo-yo dieting.

One of the most tempting sins in the feline feeding frenzy includes table scraps. Table scraps make great treats, and some even believe they’re healthier than prepackaged treats. However, a cat’s body is not the same as a human’s. He is unlikely to process our foods the same way. That means he cannot tolerate the same amounts or concentrations of saturated fats, sugars, and even fats derived from artificial sources. Table scraps can easily add unwanted pounds to his waistline.

Of course, you may have already started the habit of allowing him to sample the dishes after mealtime, and changing his behavior will be a serious challenge. You may not even be fully comfortable asking him to endure total denial. He doesn’t understand why you’re suddenly requiring him to stay down off the counter while you clear the dishes. He’s been practicing his “dishwasher” act for the last six years. If this is the case, try cutting his portion down to a small amount. Instead of allowing him to clear the plates in their entirety, give him the smallest portion left on a paper plate or in his dish.

Because cats are nimble, putting a cat on a diet can be a significant challenge. Unlike a dog, who is unlikely to jump up and scour the countertops for extra tidbits, cats are able to leap wherever food is stored—even if it’s covered with plastic wrap. In many cases, cats who are suddenly denied spend a lot of time lurking around the countertops, hoping to find a scrap you left behind. While the extra activity may be good for him, it’s also likely to counteract your efforts and provide an unpleasant surprise when you go to retrieve the dessert you covered three hours ago for company.

When you commit to your cat’s waistline, you must make sure that everything he could potentially find is carefully tucked away. Remember, he will be particularly determined. Spend a moment thinking like a cat and discover all the places he might sneak a treat—countertops, refrigerator tops, even some cabinets.

Once you have cut out the treats, you might start seeing improvement almost immediately. However, for some particularly pudgy pals, a change in food may also be necessary. Reduced-calorie foods can be introduced gradually over about a week. For the first few days, mix ¼ low-calorie food with ¾ regular food. Gradually increase the low-calorie food while decreasing the regular food. By day five, you should be adding ¾ low-calorie food and ¼ regular food. Within one week, he should be on a low-calorie diet without digestive issues from the switch.

As mentioned earlier, putting a cat on a diet is often not enough. In fact, without exercise, your cat might not lose more than ½ pound. Use new toys or old favorites, and set aside scheduled playtime to ensure he has two to three fifteen-minute play sessions daily. If you haven’t noticed improvement within a month, consider taking him to the veterinarian. Sometimes a prescription weight loss program or medication may be necessary. However, approach this cautiously and only as a last resort after behavior modification. Remember, it’s your behavior that also needs modification. Allowing your cat to manipulate you with cuteness or annoying behavior isn’t doing him any favors.

Putting a cat on a diet is a commitment—a lengthy one that requires determination, time, and forethought. However, it’s vital for your cat’s health that you dedicate the appropriate energy. He relies on you for everything, including your good judgment. It’s not natural for any animal to become overweight, and it’s often the result of lifestyle choices or misunderstanding by humans. If you notice your cat gaining weight, a diet may be necessary before he hits the obese stage.

The post Putting a Cat on a Diet – Helping Your Cat Lose Weight appeared first on .

This is an important question to address because by the time a cat shows obvious symptoms, such as not eating or vomiting, she may have been sick for a while.

The best thing you can do is get to know your cat. Learn her normal eating and sleeping habits and pay attention to her behavior. Also, observe the condition of her coat—its density, color, and sheen. When you’re familiar with how your cat behaves when she’s healthy, it will be much easier to notice when something is off.

There are many signs you can look for to assess your cat’s health. Below are some indicators that something may be wrong:

Common Signs That Your Cat May Be Sick

Hair Loss
June Rauch was brushing her cat one night when she noticed a large bald spot on one of the rear legs. Around the bald spot, there appeared to be black dirt. Wherever this black substance was visible, the hair could be easily removed. As she continued to remove hair, more black dirt appeared. When she contacted her vet, she was told it could be an infection caused by fleas, a virus, or something more serious, like pancreatic cancer. June was confident it wasn’t fleas, as there were no signs of flea activity.

After visiting the vet, they ran tests for the more serious possibilities and gave her cat a long-lasting shot of antibiotics while they awaited results. The vet explained that if the hair loss was due to a virus, the shot would resolve it in a few days.

Fortunately, the antibiotics took care of the problem. However, June might not have noticed the hair loss had she not taken the time to brush her cat that evening.

Hair loss is not normal, and it doesn’t happen without a reason. As June learned, the cause of hair loss could be quite serious, so take the time to regularly inspect your cat’s coat.

Gums
It may not be easy to get a good look inside your cat’s mouth, but doing so can provide valuable clues about various health issues.

When Ken Smith’s cat stopped eating, he initially thought she was grieving the loss of her sister, who had passed away suddenly. He assumed she would start eating again soon. Then, while she was yawning, Ken noticed her gums were yellow. He rushed her to the vet the next day, and it turned out she had liver disease, which was on the verge of turning into liver failure. Ken opted for an expensive surgery that ultimately saved his cat’s life. If he hadn’t noticed her yellow gums and taken action, she likely wouldn’t have survived.

Yellow gums are a sign of jaundice, which can indicate a liver problem. Gums can also offer clues to other health issues.

A bluish tint may suggest your cat isn’t getting enough oxygen, and very white gums—rather than the normal pink—could indicate anemia.

It’s important to note that some cats develop freckles or other discoloration on their gums as they age. Still, anything out of the ordinary should be checked by a vet as soon as possible. The only way to know what’s normal for your cat is to familiarize yourself with the appearance of her gums.

Eyes
Just like the color of the gums, the appearance of your cat’s eyes can provide clues to various health issues. To recognize when something’s wrong, you need to know what’s normal for your cat’s eyes.

The whites of a cat’s eyes should be white. Look for any discoloration, including bloodshot areas or patches of color. These could be signs that something is amiss.

Other eye abnormalities to watch for include swollen, pink areas around the eyes, changes in eye color, a cloudy film over the pupils, or pupils that look different from one another. All of these could indicate a serious health issue.

Other Signs
Other visible signs that might signal trouble include changes in the sheen or density of the coat, discoloration around the ears, and sneezing or coughing. Additionally, if your cat becomes lethargic, refuses to eat or drink, or shows changes in her litter box habits, these could also be indicators of a health problem.

In conclusion, there are many ways to answer the question, “How can I tell if my cat is sick?” Knowing what’s normal for your cat is key. Every cat is different, but getting to know YOUR cat will help you notice when something isn’t right.

When you do notice a problem, don’t wait for it to resolve on its own. Instead, contact your vet to determine whether the symptoms are serious enough to warrant an office visit.

By paying attention to your cat and giving her a thorough check-up once a month, you’ll be better equipped to catch any health problems early, giving her the best chance for a full recovery.

The post How Can I Tell if my Cat is Sick? appeared first on .

Common Cat Health Concerns

There are many potentially deadly viruses and diseases that can affect cats. Luckily, many of the most common ones are almost fully preventable through vaccination. Vaccinating your cat or kitten may be one of the most important decisions you make for the health of your pet. According to the American Association of Feline Practitioners, all cats, regardless of breed, sex, or geographic location, should be vaccinated against the following diseases.

Feline Panleukopenia (also known as feline distemper) is caused by the feline parvovirus. This highly infectious disease is especially prevalent in catteries, shelters, and boarding facilities. The virus can remain active in the environment for months to years after it is introduced. Cats become infected with panleukopenia by coming into contact with the virus on litter boxes, bowls, or through contaminated feces. Panleukopenia is especially dangerous for kittens and can cause fever, vomiting, diarrhea, and even death. Kittens should be vaccinated for panleukopenia at 8 weeks of age, with boosters every 4 weeks until they reach 16 weeks. After that, they should be vaccinated annually or every 3 years.

Feline Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus are the two most common causes of upper respiratory diseases in cats. Caused by the herpesvirus or the calicivirus, both are highly contagious and can spread through nose-to-nose contact or by sharing infected items. Although these viruses are not usually life-threatening in adult cats, they can be fatal for kittens, and some cats that develop the virus may become chronic carriers. Vaccination should begin at 6-8 weeks of age and continue every 3-4 weeks until the cat is 16 weeks old. Afterward, booster shots are needed annually, or every three years, often combined with the panleukopenia vaccine in the form of an FVRCP vaccine.

Rabies is a deadly, untreatable illness transmitted through the bites of infected animals. The disease is always fatal, and due to their hunting nature, cats may come into contact with rabid animals. It is recommended (and in some states, required) that all cats be vaccinated for rabies, whether they are indoor or outdoor cats. Kittens should receive their initial vaccination at 16 weeks of age, followed by a booster at 1 year, and subsequent boosters every three years.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is a retrovirus that attacks the immune system of infected cats. Highly contagious, it can spread through saliva, nasal discharge, or from an infected mother to her kittens. FeLV causes a range of health issues, including weight loss, lethargy, anemia, cancer, and infections. A simple blood test should be performed before vaccinating for FeLV to ensure the cat isn’t already a carrier. While vaccination for FeLV can have side effects, such as a vaccine-associated sarcoma (cancerous mass) at the injection site, the risk of contracting FeLV is greater than the potential vaccine reaction, especially in outdoor cats. Kittens should be vaccinated at 12-16 weeks, with a booster in 4 weeks, followed by annual vaccinations.

The best way to address your cat’s health concerns is to build a relationship with your veterinarian. Open communication will help you select the best vaccination protocol for your cat and ensure they remain healthy throughout their life.

Spaying or neutering your cat is not only the most effective way to prevent pet overpopulation, but it also provides significant health benefits. Female cats should be spayed (ovariohysterectomy) before they enter their first heat cycle (before 6 months of age) to reduce the risk of developing mammary (breast) cancer by almost 95% and eliminate the risk of ovarian or uterine cancer entirely. In male cats, neutering eliminates the risk of testicular cancer. It also reduces several behavior problems common in male cats, such as urine spraying, fighting with other cats, and the urge to roam in search of a mate. Like vaccinations, spaying and neutering is a simple way to ensure your cat’s health and well-being and reduce the suffering of unwanted cats and kittens.

Ensuring your cat is free of parasites is another important aspect of pet ownership. Your cat spends time in your lap, sleeps on your bed, and is part of your life. It’s important to make sure they aren’t harboring parasites, either inside or outside.

Routine fecal screening with your veterinarian can help detect and eliminate common internal parasites such as roundworms, tapeworms, coccidia, and Giardia. Many of these parasites can also be transmitted to humans, especially children, so regular screening is essential.

External parasites, such as fleas and ticks, should also be controlled. There are many effective products on the market that work well to kill fleas and ticks, preventing them from infesting your cat. Your veterinarian can help you choose the best product for your area and recommend the appropriate frequency of use. Fleas and ticks not only cause discomfort for your pet but can also transmit serious diseases like tapeworms and Lyme disease.

Throughout your cat’s life, regular veterinary visits will help identify health concerns early. Routine dental care, annual health exams, and, as your cat ages, annual blood and urine tests can help detect potential health problems early, allowing for early diagnosis and treatment before they become more serious.

The post Cat Health Concerns appeared first on .

Before discussing why cats purr, let’s take a look at how cats purr. Most creatures have a way of expressing happiness. For humans it is laugher or, perhaps, a contented sigh. For canines a good tail wagging is the best way to express joy. Cats also have a way to express happiness and other emotions: by purring. But how, exactly, does it happen?

The most popular scientific explanation involves communication between the brain of the cat to the voice box. When the brain communicates happiness (or other emotions as will be discussed later), the muscles in the voice box begin to vibrate. As air passes through the vibrating muscles, it creates the sound we call purring.

Pet owners may have noticed that at times it seems the cat is purring without interruption. That is because the sound is created both when air is inhaled and when air is exhaled, so the sound is continuous. You may notice if your cat increases the rate of his breathing, the purring may become louder or more distinct. That, too, is related to the air flow past the vibrating muscles.

A second theory is that purring is related to the release of endorphins in the brain. Since cats purr both when happy and during times of stress or pain, this theory is attractive to many experts.

Now that you have learned two of the popular theories about how cat’s purr, let’s talk more about why they purr.

Kittens begin to purr within a day or two after birth. Purring is thought to be, in part, a form of communication between felines. This earliest purring, by both mother cat and her kittens, may be part of the initial bonding process. The sound of the purring changes as a kitten grows into a mature cat, but there is no way to know if the meaning changes.

Pet owners know for sure that most cats purr when they are happy or content. Give a cat a good belly rub and you will likely be able to hear him purring from across the room. Some cats purr while they are eating, perhaps indicating their contentment at having enough food.

What some pet owners may not know is that cats also purr during some of the not so happy moments in their lives. Many cats purr when they are very close to death. Perhaps this is due to anxiety or any pain that they may be feeling at that moment. Others think that the purring at the time of death is related to euphoria, not anxiety. Of course, there is no test that can determine that for sure, so experts will likely continue to disagree.

Cats also purr when they are very ill. Is this because of the pain they may feel? Some say yes, while others believe that the purring is a way that the cat tries to calm himself. Have you ever been in pain or under a great deal of stress and found some comfort by singing to yourself? Some think that is why cats purr during difficult times in their lives. Of course, if the second theory about how cat’s purr is true, that would make sense, because the brain releases endorphins during times of pain and stress.

Frightened cats also purr. The reason could be to show submission to an enemy or to communicate friendliness to another animal. It could also be a way to let other creatures know that the cat has no intention of acting aggressively towards them.

When a cat approaches another cat to play or interact, the cat often purrs. This could be the cat’s way of communicating his reason for approaching.

Giving birth is another time when many cats become very vocal. As in many other areas regarding purring, there is debate as to why a mother cat purrs during delivery. Some say that it is joy at giving birth. More common is the theory that purring during labor helps a cat deal with the pain and the stress of the birthing process. If purring during labor is to deal with the pain, perhaps the joy comes a bit later. Mother cats also often purr loudly when nursing her kittens.

It is also common for cats to purr while sleeping. Because it is not a big secret that cats enjoy their naps, it is a pretty safe bet that if an emotion is involved with sleep purring, it is joy or contentment rather than stress!

Because they purr while being petted, cats seem to provide an instant and very visible means of communicating that they are happy with your efforts. For this reason, some cats make wonderful therapy animals. Cats that have been specially trained and certified as therapy animals visit hospitals, nursing homes and other facilities. They visit with the patients, often by curling up in their laps for a nice session of petting and purring.

Studies have shown that such interaction with therapy cats can lower blood pressure and help to alleviate depression in some patients. While there are not studies that have proven the purring is the reason for the lowered blood pressure or other positive effects, it certainly can’t hurt.

Of course, answering the question “why do cats purr?” is not as important to some pet owners as the fact that they DO purr. They purr at the sad and stressful times in their lives but, more importantly, they purr in response to your show of affection to them. What could be better than that?

The post Why Do Cats Purr – Is it a Sign of Affection? appeared first on .

The thyroid is a small gland found in most mammals, including cats. It is located at the base of the neck and produces the thyroid hormone thyroxine, which regulates the body’s metabolism. In dogs and humans, hypothyroidism (underproduction of thyroid hormone) is more common, leading to a slow metabolism. While cats can occasionally develop hypothyroidism, they are far more likely to develop hyperthyroidism, where the thyroid becomes overactive and produces too much hormone. This results in an accelerated metabolism. Although hyperthyroidism is typically a benign condition (not usually associated with cancer), it is serious and can lead to severe health problems or even death if left untreated.

Because the thyroid affects nearly every organ and cell in the body, hyperthyroidism can cause a wide range of symptoms and warning signs. Generally, this condition occurs in middle-aged to older cats, with no significant sex or breed predisposition.

Some of the main symptoms of hyperthyroidism include:

• Weight loss despite a ravenous appetite: As the thyroid increases the body’s metabolism, the cat may become insatiably hungry, yet may still lose weight rapidly.
• Increased thirst and urination: This can include inappropriate urination (e.g., outside of the litter box) and even blood in the urine. Excessive water intake can also put additional strain on the kidneys, potentially leading to kidney damage.
• Behavioral changes: Hyperactivity, nervousness, and irritability may occur due to the increased metabolism. However, some cats may show the opposite symptoms, becoming weak, lethargic, or experiencing “manic” periods of extreme activity followed by long stretches of lethargy.
• General appearance: Cats with hyperthyroidism may have a rough, unhealthy coat that sheds more than usual. Their nails may also become thick and brittle.
• Gastrointestinal upset: Vomiting and diarrhea are also possible symptoms of hyperthyroidism.
• Cardiovascular changes: Untreated hyperthyroidism puts significant strain on the heart and respiratory system. Many cats experience rapid breathing and a fast, strong heartbeat that can be easily felt by placing your hand on the cat’s chest. This condition, known as myocardial hypertrophy, can cause irreversible cardiac damage.

Hyperthyroidism affects many vital organs and physiological functions. If left untreated, it can lead to dangerous and even fatal consequences. In addition to routine yearly physical exams by your veterinarian, any cat showing symptoms of hyperthyroidism should be examined immediately. Your vet will review your cat’s medical history and ask for details about any changes in activity levels, behavior, or other warning signs. A physical exam may reveal signs such as an enlarged thyroid gland (a common symptom), and your veterinarian may check for heart dysfunction and measure blood pressure.

If hyperthyroidism is suspected, blood tests are one of the most effective ways to diagnose it. A Complete Blood Count (CBC) and Blood Chemistries will assess your cat’s overall health and examine organ function, such as the kidneys and liver. The CBC evaluates red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets, helping to diagnose conditions like infections and anemia.

To specifically diagnose hyperthyroidism, a thyroxine (T4) test is performed. Elevated T4 levels strongly indicate hyperthyroidism, but false negatives can occur. To confirm the diagnosis, your vet may also perform a Free T4 (FT4) test, which is more sensitive and provides a definitive result.

If your cat is diagnosed with hyperthyroidism, your veterinarian may recommend additional diagnostic imaging (e.g., radiographs and ultrasound) to ensure there are no underlying causes, such as tumors or other forms of cancer.

The exact cause of hyperthyroidism in cats is often unknown, but treatment is typically straightforward and very successful. There are two main options: medication or radiation therapy.

The appropriate treatment depends on your cat’s individual health and condition. Several tests may be conducted before deciding on the best course of action. Once the tests are completed, a personalized treatment plan can be created for your cat.

Medication is the most common and generally the least expensive treatment. This involves giving your cat medication twice daily for life, which can be in the form of pills, liquid medication, or transdermal gels. However, treatment depends on the owner’s ability to ensure the cat takes the medication consistently, and the cat’s willingness to ingest it.

A newer treatment option is radioiodine therapy, a one-time radiation treatment. This involves injecting radioactive iodine directly into the thyroid gland, which destroys only the abnormal cells responsible for overproducing thyroxine. Often, one treatment is enough to “cure” the cat, eliminating the need for daily medication. However, this is a more invasive treatment that requires a multi-day hospital stay and a larger financial investment.

Regardless of the treatment method chosen, follow-up bloodwork is a key part of successfully managing hyperthyroidism. After starting medication or undergoing iodine therapy, your veterinarian will likely recommend several rounds of follow-up tests to adjust medication doses and confirm the success of the radiation treatment. Over time, as your cat stabilizes, blood tests may become less frequent, but all cats being treated for hyperthyroidism should have their T4 levels checked at least twice a year to ensure their treatment is still effective.

While hyperthyroidism in cats can be dangerous and potentially fatal, it is highly treatable. Cats who receive proper treatment for hyperthyroidism often develop no secondary illnesses and go on to live long, healthy lives.

The post Hyperthyroidism in Cats appeared first on .

What Causes Constipation?

Several factors may contribute to constipation, including:

• Hairballs, especially in long-haired cats.
• Ingestion of foreign bodies.
• Obstruction caused by tumors, strictures, or masses compressing or blocking the large intestine.
• Pelvic injuries that result in a narrowed pelvic canal.
• Nerve damage that affects the colon’s ability to contract, which may result from trauma or a more generalized neurological disease.
• In some cases, no obvious cause is identified.

Constipation is most commonly seen in middle-aged and older cats.

What Is Megacolon?
Megacolon refers to a dilated and weakened colon that causes severe constipation. It may be a primary condition or a result of long-term constipation. When the colon becomes distended with fecal material over an extended period, its ability to contract may be reduced or lost, leading to megacolon.

How Are Constipation and Megacolon Diagnosed?
In most cases, constipation is diagnosed based on the cat’s clinical signs. Affected cats often strain unsuccessfully to defecate and may cry in pain. Any feces passed are hard and dry. The cat may also show signs of lethargy, reluctance to eat, and vomiting.

Further tests may be required to determine the cause of the constipation, such as abdominal and pelvic x-rays to check for pelvic injuries, colonic strictures, or tumors. X-rays are also the primary diagnostic tool for megacolon.

How Can Constipation and Megacolon Be Treated?
Treatment depends on the underlying cause of the constipation. For example, if an obstruction like a colonic tumor is present, surgical treatment may be necessary.

The post Constipation in Cats – Difficulty with Bowel Movements appeared first on .

How serious is vomiting?

Most cases of acute vomiting (i.e. the vomiting has been present for less than 2-3 days) resolve readily with simple treatment without the underlying cause being diagnosed. Severe or chronic vomiting is more serious. It can lead to secondary problems, particularly dehydration and disturbances in the levels of electrolytes, especially sodium. It is important to investigate such cases to identify the underlying cause to provide effective treatment.

Recognizing vomiting:

Vomiting may begin with a stage of nausea, the cat appears restless, and possibly apprehensive. The cat may lick its lips, salivate and repeatedly swallow. Vomiting itself involves contractions of the abdominal muscles, which may be repeated, leading to return of fluid, froth or food. The severe effort associated with vomiting may be distressing to the cat.

It is important to differentiate this from the abdominal contractions associated with coughing. Cats may cough up some froth which they subsequently swallow creating more confusion with vomiting. Cats usually crouch down on all four legs when coughing with the neck stretched out.

It is also helpful to differentiate vomiting from regurgitation, which is usually associated with problems affecting the esophagus or gullet. Features which help to differentiate vomiting from regurgitation include: –

• whether return of food involves abdominal contractions and effort
• whether the returned food is in the shape of a sausage
• whether the returned food is re-eaten
• the relation to feeding

Acute vomiting

Acute vomiting is vomiting that has been present for no more than 2-3 days. Most cases will respond quickly to simple treatment. The cause of such cases is often never established and may be due to relatively trivial factors such as eating spoiled food etc. In a minority of acute cases of vomiting, usually because the vomiting is severe leading to complications such as dehydration or because a more serious underlying cause is suspected, further tests, specific treatment and more supportive care will be required. Features that you may be able to identify that will help the veterinarian decide whether simple treatment or further investigations are appropriate would be:

• if the cat appears otherwise well or ill – depressed, lethargic or has any other specific signs
• if the cat is eating
• if there has been weight loss
• if there has been any blood in the vomit (a few specks of fresh blood may not be abnormal but more copious or persistent bleeding is significant)
• any pain or distress, particularly affecting the abdomen
• whether normal feces are being passed
• the frequency of vomiting
• the relationship of vomiting to feeding – particularly if there is a long delay
• any offensive odor to the vomitus
• what the cat has been fed
• any recent change of diet
• any possible access to other foods or other substances
• any treatment given recently
• whether other cats in the household are affected

Symptomatic treatment for vomiting

Symptomatic treatment is usually tried initially in mild cases of vomiting. It may involve a number of measures:

1. Withholding of food for 6-8 hours or as directed by your veterinarian.

2. Provision of an easily digested, bland diet.

A simple, easily digestible diet will normally be offered in small quantities. A diet based on boiled chicken or sometimes fish with rice is often used. It is important that the cat does not receive any other foods during this period. Water should be freely available and is important to combat dehydration. If the cat is progressing well, the quantity of food offered can be gradually increased back to normal over several days and then the cat’s normal diet reintroduced gradually over several days.

3. Drugs – certain medications are available to control vomiting and your veterinarian may advise the use of these.

Further investigation of vomiting

If the vomiting is severe or the veterinarian suspects a serious underlying problem, other treatment and diagnostic tests may be required. It may be necessary to hospitalize your cat so that intravenous fluids can be given to combat dehydration as well as correcting any imbalances in the levels of electrolytes. It will also be possible to administer drugs by injection as required to control the vomiting. In some less severe cases you may be asked to administer fluids and special solutions at home. You may be given a syringe to help you do this. You must be patient, giving only small quantities at frequent intervals. If your cat becomes unduly distressed, contact your veterinarian for instructions.

Further diagnostic tests may be required in cases of chronic vomiting when the cat has been vomiting for more than 2-3 weeks, even though the vomiting may be intermittent and the cat may appear otherwise well. Such cases can often not be successfully treated until the underlying cause has been determined. Some of the more commonly used tests are:

• Blood tests – to check for infections, kidney and liver problems, and provide other clues to the diagnosis.
• X-rays – may show abnormalities of the esophagus or stomach. It may be necessary to give barium to help identify any blockages, tumors, ulcers, foreign bodies, etc.
• Endoscopy – in some cases a diagnosis can be made by viewing the inside of the stomach directly through an endoscope, a flexible viewing tube, which is passed through the mouth under a general anesthetic.
• Laparotomy – in some cases an exploratory operation is necessary, particularly if some obstruction or blockage is suspected. This may also allow surgical treatment of the problem.

The post Cat Vomiting – Regurgitation of Food and Liquids appeared first on .

After her cat had not eaten anything for nearly a week, Amy finally brought the cat to the vet. It turned out that the cat had an obstruction in her digestive tract that was preventing her from eating. Luckily, Amy got her cat to the vet in time, but waiting much longer could have led to a very different outcome.

What to Do When Your Cat is Sick

When humans or some animals, such as dogs, don’t eat for a week or even longer, their bodies will certainly feel it, but can usually handle it. Cats cannot. If a cat stops eating for any reason, her body cannot handle it, and the situation can quickly lead to liver problems that can be life-threatening.

Because cats are not, by nature, complainers, by the time your cat is displaying noticeable symptoms that something is wrong, it’s likely the problem has existed for a while.

The first rule when caring for a sick cat is to take it to the vet as soon as possible when something is not quite right. It is better to pay for an office visit and be on the safe side than to wait and end up with huge vet bills or, much worse, the loss of your beloved pet.

If your cat has diarrhea or is vomiting but the symptoms resolve after one day, a vet visit may not be necessary. Just be sure to observe your cat carefully. If the symptoms last longer than 24 hours or if they go away and then return, you should take your cat to the vet.

Many pet owners find themselves caring for a sick cat. These owners have taken their cat to the vet, had the problem diagnosed, and received instructions on giving medications and scheduling follow-up visits. While having a sick cat is never fun, there are several things you can do to make your pet more comfortable.

Making Your Sick Cat Comfortable

If you have other pets, try to isolate your sick cat from them, if possible. You could set up a special spot for your cat in a room that isn’t used often. For example, one pet owner installed a locking dog door on the door to a spare bedroom. Jean Rhodes’ cat was suffering from liver failure, and the recovery process, which included feeding the cat through a tube, would be lengthy. To make her cat as comfortable as possible, she placed the cat’s food and bedding in the spare room. She could lock the dog door to prevent the other animals from pestering her cat while she was at work, but then unlock it at night in case the cat wanted to come out and be with the family.

In addition to separating your cat from other pets, which is especially important if your cat has stitches or bandages, it’s also a good idea to limit the contact that small children have with the sick cat. Little children’s hugs can be quite rough, so always be present when they interact with the sick cat.

Providing comfortable bedding is another way to make your cat more comfortable. Be sure to keep the bedding clean and check it daily to ensure your cat hasn’t soiled it. Some cats will sleep in their litter box when they’re sick. To prevent this, consider setting up a cage (leave the door open so your cat can come and go) to provide a safe space where your cat can rest without needing to take refuge in the litter box.

If your cat must be confined to a cage, make sure there is enough bedding and check it daily for soiling. Keep the litter box very clean and wash the bedding at least twice a week.

You may have specific instructions from the vet about feeding your sick cat. If so, be sure to follow those directions to the letter. If not, avoid the temptation to give your cat “special” food while she’s recovering. Depending on the illness, she may require a bland diet or special food that is available by prescription only. If that’s the case, do not feed her anything other than those foods. Even if no special diet is required, stick to her normal diet and save special treats or changes in food for after she has fully recovered.

Depending on the illness, your cat may need to be cared for around the clock. If you are unable to provide this level of care, you may need to consider boarding your cat at an emergency pet hospital where constant care is available.

Caring for a sick cat is not one of the greatest joys of pet ownership, but it’s not as hard as you might think. Just keep in touch with your vet, inform them of any changes, follow their instructions carefully, and shower your cat with extra love and attention.

The post Caring for a Sick Cat appeared first on .

If obesity doesn’t directly cause diabetes, then what does? Well, with cats just as with people, it definitely pays to have good genes. Some cats simply have genes that make them more or less likely to get diabetes, and more or less likely to get lots of other diseases as well. The story doesn’t stop there, though. Other environmental factors play a big part in either getting or avoiding a disease such as diabetes. Without question, for the cat (and for most humans as well), the most important environmental factor that causes diabetes is diet. Because today’s indoor cat is almost always eating dry cat food, with its extremely high processed carb (essentially sugar) content, a cat with any genetic tendency to become obese and/or become diabetic will do just that when sugar is a large part of its diet. In my many years of practice, I have never seen a diabetic cat that was eating canned food only. Also, I have never seen an overweight cat that was eating canned food only. The onset of obesity and diabetes is triggered by constant flooding of the cat’s system with refined carbohydrate from the dry diet, day after day, month after month and year after year. This steady sugar rush finally exhausts the small pancreatic capabilities of the carnivore because the cat’s evolution never prepared it for a constant high-sugar diet. In some cats, relentless sugar surges cause the cat pancreas to turn that sugar to fat. Obesity, with or without diabetes, follows.

Q: How do I know if my cat has diabetes?
The most common signs of diabetes in almost any animal, including humans, is increased thirst and increased urine output. If you see these in your cat, see a veterinarian immediately. Some diabetic cats will also lose weight unexpectedly (many are overweight to begin with because they are eating dry cat food), begin vomiting, have diarrhea, and become listless. Any sign of general illness can be a sign of diabetes.

Q: My cat was just diagnosed! What do I do?
The time right after signs of disease have appeared is a critical time if the disease is to be stopped and reversed. Diabetes can be cured but is easiest to cure if the problem does not become chronic. The best approach to managing a diabetic, whether newly diagnosed or long-term, is the protocol I use. See the link to “Protocol” for the information about how this approach works.

Q: Is a diabetic cat doomed to a poor quality of life?Not at all. Remarkably, because this is a “man-made” disease, caused by the wrong food for the life of the cat, it can almost always be reversed by removing the offending dry diet and aggressive management. See “Protocol.”

Q: What is hypoglycemia, and how do I handle it?Hypoglycemia is the term for low blood sugar. Diabetics have the opposite problem, high blood sugar, called hyperglycemia. Diabetics only develop hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) is they are managed incorrectly. You will read some scarey stories about diabetics that “hypo” and have all kinds of problems as a result. However, no cat ever needs to have any episodes of hypoglycemia if it is managed without dry cat food and sugar supplements (like Karo, pancake syrup etc.). I have managed hundreds of diabetic cats and have never had one that was on my protocol has had an episode of hypoglycemia that produced these signs.

Q: What is the goal of treatment?
My goal for all of my diabetic patients is to restore the cat to its previous health without need for insulin. Other veterinarians may not attempt to achieve this goal, but my years of experience have taught me that more than 80% of all cats, especially new diabetics, can become normal again. Therefore, I do not treat my patients with the goal of just helping them “limp” along as ongoing diabetic cats. You may read elsewhere that only a lucky few cats, far less than the majority, ever become normal again. This is simply not true, a myth that is perpetuated by those with no experience in using a more advanced, and well proven method of reversing the processes of diabetes itself. Diabetic pet-owners have nothing to lose, except a chronically ill pet that will eventually die of its under-treated disease, by setting the goal of achieving normalcy in their pets.

Q: How can I find other people with diabetic cats in my area?
This Forum is designed to connect other owners of diabetic cats with one another. The site owner, Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins is also available for support.

Q: Can I give oral medication instead of insulin?No, no forms of oral anti-hyperglycemics are useful in cats, and some may even make the disease worse. The best, most conservative approach is to treat aggressively, and early, to restore the patient to normal health. The only oral approach to feline diabetes that works is removing all high carbohydrate foods from the cat’s diet. As you will read in the protocol, this is the key to controlling and curing diabetes.

Q: Can I control this with herbs or something instead of insulin?
No, there are no known herbs or minerals (including chromium or vanadium) which are useful in managing feline diabetes. There are herbs and other “holistic” substances, such as the mushroom agaricus blazeii, and milk thistle, that have benefit in other kinds of conditions. No doubt, there are many other such natural drugs that will be found to be of benefit in management of disease in the cat and other species. Insulin is the cat’s natural hyperglycemia control substance, so insulin is the drug of choice for getting the diabetic cat back to normal.

Q: What should I feed my cat?
All cats, diabetic and non-diabetic, should be fed only low carbohydrate, high protein foods. This effectively removes all dry foods from consideration, including dry foods that say they are “low carbohydrate” and all dry foods made for diabetic cats.

Q: Can I free-feed my cat?
You cannot free-feed any dry food. Carb-laden dry cat food is the cause of feline diabetes in the first place. You can leave canned, pouched, or meat diets down for some period of time (a few hours) if necessary. Actually, however, cats do not need to “graze” on any food. Cows are grazers, but cats eat discrete meals after a successful hunt. Cats are not herbivores like cows are, and their meals are high nutrient-density and less frequent than the meals of herbivores, whose diets are low-nutrient-density.

Q: My cat doesn’t like / I can’t afford the expensive prescription food. Is there any less expensive substitute?Yes, the good news is that any low-carbohydrate canned or pouched food can be used successfully to manage and cure the feline diabetic. Some good brands include Fancy Feast, Whiskas, Nutro Kitten, ProPlan kitten, even Friskies and Nine Lives (never feed any cat an “adult” or “senior” formula. These older cat formulas are packed with carbohydrate!)

Q: How much should I feed my cat?Most adult cats should get about 6-8 ounces of wet food total each day, divided into two or more meals.

Q: What kinds of insulin are there?
For cats, the very best insulin is PZI bovine insulin. All of the human-type insulins, including the newer Lantus and Levemir products are far less effective in this species than PZI.

Q: Where can I get PZI insulin?Any licensed veterinarian can prescribe PZI insulin for your cat once the diagnosis has been made. Idexx makes a very stable PZI insulin, and there are at least two compounding pharmacies that also produce this kind of insulin.

Q: What can I expect to pay for PZI insulin?
Insulin costs about $75-$100 per bottle depending on the manufacturer and the area of the country in which you live. Fortunately, a bottle will last quite a long time if you use the protocol on this site, because you will be using small doses in almost all cases and may not have to use insulin for your cat for any great length of time.

Q: What kind of syringe should I use?
There are two sizes of syringes available. One is typically used with insulin that has 40 units per cc, and one is used with insulin that has 100 units per cc. You will usually use the syringe that matches the concentration of insulin that you buy. There some exceptions to this, as using a U-100 syringe to administer U-30 insulin actually allows you to give doses of insulin as small as four-tenths (4/10) of a unit of insulin. If this sounds confusing right now, don’t worry about it. You can discuss this with Dr. Hodgkins on the Forum if you wish.

Q: Do I need a prescription for insulin or syringes?
Insulin is always a prescription substance, syringes may be available over-the-counter at some pharmacies.

Q: Can I reuse syringes?
No. Unfortunately, you must use a new, sterile syringe every time you give your cat a dose of insulin to make sure these injections are as sterile as possible.

Q: How do I dispose of used needles?
Many veterinarians will accept used syringes from their clients. Also, you can purchase a “sharps” disposal container at most pharmacies. In any event, you should not put syringes in your trash!

Q: My cat hates getting his shot. Now what?After working with hundreds of feline diabetics, I have never seen a cat that actually minds the injection of insulin. New needles are very sharp and all insulin needles are small diameter. When the injection is done properly, the patient cannot even feel the injection. Proper technique is important, as is performing the injection quickly so the patient doesn’t become anxious just waiting. Usually, the cat objects to being made to hold still and wait for the injection more than the injection itself. Many of my clients will give a low carb “treat” right after the injection, so the patient associates being held for a short time with a fun reward. Never use regular treats available at the grocery store for this purpose. Such treats are loaded with carbs and can undo some the good accomplished with proper diet. Freeze-dried meat-only-type treats work great for this, and are good for your diabetic.

Q: How long does a bottle of insulin last?
When you use the protocol on this site, you will be using small doses of insulin, usually only a few units per day total. A bottle of insulin can last months.

Q: Sometimes I can’t be home to give one of my cat’s shots; is it okay to give it late or early?
Although work and family schedules may make it hard some days to keep to a regular schedule for dosing your cat with insulin, it is critical to do your very best to give doses at 6-12 hour intervals. Giving insulin at intervals less than 12 hours has a very beneficial effect on the regulation of the feline diabetic. This fact is well understood in the area of human diabetes, where patients typically test themselves every few hours and give insulin “as needed” to keep their blood glucose very level. It is keeping the blood glucose “level and low” over an extended period of time that allows the patient to feel well, and return to normal in most cases.

Q: How much insulin should my cat receive each day?
This will depend on many factors, most especially your own pet’s ability to produce some of its own insulin. Avoiding high-carbohydrate foods also allows much lower insulin doses, and a much more rapid return to normal function. Most cats on the protocol get only a unit or two, at most, 2-3 times daily, for a few weeks.

Q: How can I monitor how well the insulin is working?
I recommend that all of my clients with diabetic cats use a glucometer, available at any pharmacy, to home-test their pets at home. This procedure is performed by all human diabetics several times a day, and it is easy to learn. Web sites such as www.petdiabetes.com/ can give you a very good idea about how to perform this very important test for your pet.

Q: What kind of glucometer should I get?
I personally like the Freestyle Flash because it is so easy to use. However, there are many models on the market that will also work well. There is a new model available through veterinarians that the manufacturer claims is best for dogs and cats. Unfortunately, I have not been able to obtain this particular meter to test for myself. Until I am able to do this validation, I do not recommend this meter because the unit itself, and the reagent strips it uses, are very much more expensive that the human meters that are readily available at human pharmacies. What is most important is that you get a unit you feel comfortable with and use the same meter every time you test. That way, the numbers are actually secondary to the trends in blood glucose that you will detect.

Q: How often should my cat’s glucose levels be tested?
I recommend that my clients test at least every 12 hours. Ideally, the cat should be tested three times daily to allow the most level blood glucose “curve over the 24 hours of each day.

Q: If my cat has a blood glucose level that is in the normal range of 60-120 when I test, should I still give insulin?
No, you do not want or need to give insulin if your cat’s blood glucose is in the normal range. However, this number may change rapidly without an insulin shot, so retest within 2-3 hours. If the number remains normal, great! If the number rises above the normal range, you will need to give that missed dose.

Q: I’m not from the United States, and I don’t understand your units of measurement. My cat couldn’t have a blood glucose of 300 even if you soaked her in honey for a week.
In the US, we use a different system of measurement for the amount of blood sugar in circulation. To convert European values to American values, multiply by 18. Conversely, to change US values, divide by 18.

Q: I’m following the instructions faithfully, but I still can’t get blood from my cat’s ear.
Make sure your cat’s ear is fairly warm, meaning that blood is flowing in the vessels of the ear. Relax, tension can cause this to be harder for you than necessary. I suggest using the very edge of the outer side of the ear for the prick. I also suggest using a clipper to remove some of the hair from the edges of the ear as this will make the small drop of blood easier to place into the test strip in the meter.

Q: My cat has been off of insulin for several days, and I’m getting glucose readings in the 40s and 50s (2.2-3.3 mmol/L). Should I treat him for hypoglycemia?
No! Your cat is actually at the normal level for the cat. What most people do not realize is that the cat IS NOT hypoglycemic at these levels of 50 or less. I have seen many normal cats with these kinds of numbers when they are tested at home without the excitement of being at the veterinary hospital. In fact, numbers well below 100 are absolutely normal for the diabetic as well as the non-diabetic. I cannot over-emphasize this point. Those who believe that a cat is having a “hypo” when blood glucose numbers fall below 100 are in error.

Q: What is a “hypo” and why is everyone so afraid of it?
When someone talks about a “hypo” episode, what they are usually talking about is the clinical signs we see in cats when the brain does not get enough glucose, including weakness and even seizures. This can happen at many different levels of blood glucose, sometimes a cat will have these signs at levels that are not that low, say 70, and other cats show absolutely no signs whatsoever at blood glucose levels as low as 20! Therefore, the absolute number is not the whole story, not by a long shot. The cat’s liver is just as important to the control of blood glucose as the pancreas is. The liver and pancreas work together, with the pancreas keeping the blood glucose from going too high and the liver keeping the blood glucose from going too low. The cat on high carbohydrate foods loses both its normal liver function and its normal pancreatic function. This loss of normal liver function is what causes the signs of hypoglycemia. When a diabetic cat is consuming low carb foods instead of high carb foods, the liver resumes its ability to make enough glucose to meet the brain’s needs, and hypo signs DO NOT OCCUR. Low carbohydrate-feed cats have tremendous resistance to hypo signs because their livers work to keep this problem from occurring.

Q: Why Are Dry-Food-Fed Diabetics So Prone to Hypoglycemia?
Many diabetic cats on insulin experience periodic episodes of “hypoglycemia” when their blood sugar plummets. These cats, like Punkin, become weak or even comatose, and may even have a seizure. These signs all result when the cat’s brain isn’t getting enough sugar (glucose). This serious complication is all too common in dry food fed diabetics. However, we do not see clinical hypoglycemia in diabetic cats that are eating low carbohydrate wet foods. Why?

To answer this question, we have to understand how the pancreas and liver in the cat work together. As we have discussed, one of the pancreas’s most important jobs is to make sure that the cat’s blood sugar level does not go too high. On the other hand, one of the liver’s most important jobs is too make sure that the blood sugar level does not go too low. The pancreas and liver work together as a team to keep the blood sugar level steady in the normal range for health. The pancreas produces constant small bursts of insulin over the course of the day and the liver produces constant small bursts of glucose by converting amino acids to sugar to balance the insulin. In the healthy cat, these two organs work seamlessly together to keep the cat’s blood sugar in balance at all times.
In the normal cat, when the liver senses that blood sugar is dropping significantly (as when a cat exercises vigorously), it begins making a greater amount of glucose from the amino acids from protein. This is a very well-developed liver activity in this species, because the cat in nature gets very little of its sugar from its food. Dietary protein and amino acids are the sugar reservoir in this species.

As we have discussed previously, dry cat food has high levels of carbohydrate and sugar. These levels stress the pancreas, causing some cats to become diabetic. This is not the only derangement in the dry food fed cat, however. When the cat’s diet is high in carbohydrate and sugar, the function of the patient’s liver also becomes abnormal. Instead of responding to small drops in blood sugar with production of sugar, the liver in the dry-food-fed cat fails to respond. The constant high dietary sugar load has caused the liver to lose some of its ability to respond quickly to the event of falling blood sugar. Thus, in the dry-food-fed cat, the pancreas cannot respond to high sugar any more, and the liver cannot respond to low sugar. The cat has become a complete carbohydrate “cripple.” This crippled cat is completely dependant upon exactly the right amount of insulin from the outside. It is extremely difficult to provide such precise amounts of injected insulin. This is why owners find it extremely frustrating to try to manage the dry-food-fed cat.

Q: Isn’t it better to be conservative with treatment rather than testing and giving insulin so often to achieve normal or near-normal blood glucose levels?
Definitely not. What we know is that high blood glucose levels intoxicate the pancreas, and suppress the normal functioning of the liver. Until blood glucose in the cat begins to be normal or nearly so for much of the time, these organs will not begin to work effectively together. Once they begin to work properly together again, permanent normalcy is possible, even probable.. If a cat is maintained at hyperglycemic blood glucose levels, it cannot be said to be well-regulated at all, and will not resume normal pancreatic and liver function and cease dependency on insulin shots.

Q: What is a “honeymoon’?

You will hear some owners talk about how their cats achieve temporary independence from a need for insulin. This temporary state of “normalcy” is followed usually within a few days or weeks by relapse back into the diabetic state. It is this phenomenon that makes some people think that permanent independence from a need for insulin shots is impossible, or nearly so. What these people fail to understand is that “honeymoons” always follow a severe hypoglycemic episode, usually caused by an insulin overdose or repeated overdoses, which actually does activate the pancreas for a short time. Unfortunately, when the correct protocol isn’t used after the honeymoon begins, for example if the cat is still eating a high-carbohydrate food, or is on a poorly-effective insulin like human insulins, normalcy will always be short-lived. Permanent independence from insulin is NOT the same as a “honeymoon.” The protocol does not seek to achieve these transient remissions. It is permanent normalcy that is the goal, and is achieved in the majority of cases, without clinical signs of hypoglycemia.

Q: Are there other signs besides blood glucose that I can monitor at home?
It is not necessary to check for glucose in the urine or ketones when you are using the protocol. Urine changes like this occur when a cat’s blood glucose swings into the high hyperglycemic ranges for long periods of the day, or all day. The protocol stops this from happening, so sugar or ketones in the urine do not occur.

Q: I’m interested in home-testing, but my vet won’t let me. What should I do?
Glucometers and test strips are OTC (over-the-counter) items in human pharmacies or online. You do not need your veterinarian’s “permission” to test your cat’s blood glucose. This testing is easy to do and there are a number of online references that clearly show how to perform this simple procedure at home. Millions of humans test their own blood glucose every day using these techniques. No human doctor would even consider discouraging their diabetic patients from keeping close tabs on their own blood glucose at home, in fact, home testing is central to competent management of the human diabetic. The very same principles apply to cats (and dogs, for that matter). If your veterinarian becomes resentful of your caring for your cat in this way, which is rare these days, you may want to find another veterinarian.

Q: What are ketones?Ketones are molecules which build up in the blood stream and urine of cats that are poorly regulated or not regulated at all, as might be the case before a cat is diagnosed with this disease. Ketones are not a problem with cats on the protocol because high blood glucose levels necessary for ketones to become a problem do not occur in cats on the protocol, so it is not necessary to test for them.

Q: What is Diabetic Ketoacidosis?
This is the medical term for a build-up of ketones in the cat’s blood stream. It can be dangerous and sometimes is the first sign that the cat is diabetic. One of the great advantages of the tight regulation achieved by the protocol is that this condition does not occur in cats on this regulation method. I have experience with hundreds of feline diabetics on the protocol and am very confident of this aspect of tight regulation. Others may disagree, but their basis of disagreement is theoretical, not based on this kind of personal experience.
Q: Some say that there are a number of different levels of regulation, and that no one way that is good for all cats. Is this true?No. In human diabetic regulation, the objective is always the same: to keep the patients blood glucose level as close to normal as possible at all times. There are no “different methods or goals” of regulation in humans. There is no justification for asking a diabetic cat owner to participate in maintaining a poorly-regulated diabetic state in their pets. None whatsoever! Not only is this a slow death for the cat, but it is not at all necessary. Years ago, before we understood human or feline diabetes as we do now, this may have been acceptable. It is no longer appropriate or necessary.

Q: My cat has been on insulin for a while and her diabetes is still out of control. Why can’t I regulate her?
Read the protocol that is linked to the home page. If there are any steps in that protocol that are not being followed in the management of your cat, the answer is there. If you are already following the protocol, contact Dr. Hodgkins through this site for additional advice.

Q: What is tight regulation?
It is the method that is set out in the protocol.

Q: Is remission possible?Using the protocol, permanent independence from insulin injections and constant testing is not only possible, but highly probable.

Q: My cat is walking funny / weak in the hind legs / not jumping well. Is this related?
Diabetic cats that are poorly regulated can develop a condition known as diabetic “neuropathy,” or nerve damage, which is common in cats that have been hyperglycemic for extended periods. Any weakness, especially in the hind legs or back in a diabetic cat may be signs of this condition. The way to relieve and reverse this damage is to achieve better regulation.

Q: My cat has kidney failure. How do I manage this as well?
Because unregulated diabetes damages the vessels of the body, all organ systems can be negatively affected by vessel damage, and the kidneys are often the first organs to show this damage. Therefore, achieving good control of chronic hyperglycemia is imperative to controlling kidney problems in diabetic cats. Beyond that, there are a number of other very effective approaches to managing kidney problems in any cat. These include the use of drugs like benazapril (an ace-inhibitor), fluid therapy, phosphorus binders and others. Once the underlying diabetes is controlled or reversed, kidney problems become much easier to deal with.

Q: My cat has asthma; how can I avoid using steroids?
It is absolutely true that steroid drugs such as injectable depomedrol or oral prednisolone should be avoided in diabetic cats. Often, it is these very drugs that have pushed the cat over the edge into diabetes when it was treated with these drugs while consuming high carbohydrate dry foods. There are a number of ways of dealing with asthma and other allergic diseases without using oral or injectable steroids. These include hypoallergenic diets, inhalers with bronchodilators or inhalant steroids (not usually as much a problem in diabetics as systemic steroids), antihistamines, or a new drug called cyclosporine which is a non-steroidal immunomodulator. You will want to discuss using one or more of these approaches to manage your cat’s allergic disease.

Q: I can’t get my cat to eat! What should I do?
Diabetic cats under tight regulation generally eat their wet foods very well. Until this kind of control is achieved, it is useful to try very palatable “treat” foods at first, and appetite stimulants like ciprohepatidine (periactin) can also be used. Other owners that participate in Your Diabetic Cat Forum or Dr. Hodgkins can help you with this transient problem.

The post What Causes Diabetes in Cats? appeared first on .