Before diving in, it’s worth noting that many owners start researching tools like shock collars for dogs when they struggle with training challenges. While these devices can be part of a broader behaviour-management strategy, it’s essential to understand core training principles first to avoid relying too heavily on quick fixes.

Here are the biggest mistakes new pet owners make—and how to avoid them.

Inconsistent Commands and Rules

One of the fastest ways to confuse a pet is inconsistency. If one family member allows the dog on the couch while another tells them off for it, your pet receives mixed messages. Animals thrive when boundaries are clear, predictable and reinforced the same way every time.

How to fix it:

• Agree on household rules upfront.
• Use the same commands for key behaviours (e.g., “sit” instead of sometimes “sit down”).
• Reinforce behaviours consistently with rewards or redirection.

Expecting Results Too Quickly

Training takes time—sometimes more than you think. Puppies, for example, have short attention spans and can easily get overwhelmed. Rescue pets may need time to decompress before they can even begin learning new routines.

How to fix it:

• Break training into short, fun sessions.
• Celebrate incremental improvements.
• Understand that progress isn’t linear; setbacks are normal.

Using Punishment Instead of Positive Reinforcement

Many new owners instinctively respond to unwanted behaviour with punishment—raising their voice, yanking a lead or isolating the pet. Not only is this ineffective, but it can also damage trust.

How to fix it:

• Reward the behaviour you want rather than punishing what you don’t.
• Use treats, praise, play or access to favourite toys.
• Redirect unwanted behaviour calmly and consistently.

Socialising Too Late (or Too Little)

Socialisation is critical during a puppy or kitten’s development. Missing this window can lead to anxiety, reactivity or fear-based behaviour later on.

How to fix it:

• Introduce your pet to a variety of safe environments, animals and people early.
• Keep experiences positive and low-pressure.
• For older rescue pets, socialise gradually with patience and care.

Forgetting That Pets Need Mental Stimulation

Boredom is one of the biggest drivers of destructive or unwanted behaviours. Pets—especially intelligent breeds—need enrichment, not just exercise.

How to fix it:

• Rotate puzzle toys, chew items and enrichment games.
• Teach new tricks regularly; it challenges their brain and strengthens your bond.
• Provide daily exercise suited to their age and breed.

Ignoring Body Language

Animals constantly communicate through posture, tail position, facial expression and energy levels. Many behavioural issues escalate simply because the early warning signs were missed.

How to fix it:

• Learn the basics of pet body language.
• Watch for stress signals such as lip-licking, yawning, pacing or avoidance.
• Respond early by offering space, reassurance or redirection.

Not Setting Up the Right Environment

Training becomes much harder when the environment works against you. For example, trying to teach recall in a busy dog park is a recipe for frustration.

How to fix it:

• Begin training in quiet, distraction-free spaces.
• Gradually introduce new challenges as your pet becomes more confident.
• Use tools such as baby gates, crates or designated training zones.

Skipping Professional Help When It’s Needed

There’s no shame in needing guidance. Many behavioural challenges—even mild ones—can benefit from early support from a trainer, behaviourist or vet.

How to fix it:

• Book a session with a reputable positive-reinforcement trainer.
• Seek advice early before habits become entrenched.
• If behaviour changes suddenly, consult your vet to rule out medical causes.

Ready to get started?

Training a new pet is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have—but it takes patience, consistency and understanding. Avoiding these common mistakes sets the foundation for a calm, confident and well-adjusted companion. With the right techniques, a supportive environment and a focus on positive reinforcement, you’ll build a strong bond that lasts a lifetime.

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Contrary to the long-standing belief that barking is simply a response to boredom, current research shows that it is a specific form of communication used by dogs, along with body language and olfactory (smell) signals. There are several types of barks, each with a distinct sound and purpose.

Types of Barking and Their Causes

Warning barks are the most common type of barking, and most people encourage and accept this type of barking. These barks are meant to alert others to potential danger or a suspicious person. As a person approaches, warning barks may become more rapid and forceful. Aggressive barks are similar to warning barks but tend to be lower in pitch and are often accompanied by growling.

A dog stuck outside will commonly voice its concern through isolation barks. These barks are usually higher-pitched than warning barks and often occur as single barks in an increasingly insistent tone, as if to say, “Remember me? I’m OUT HERE!”

In addition, dogs have different types of barks for play, boredom, fear, and anxiety. While this barking is all part of normal behavior, some dogs are more frequent and excessive barkers than others, and this can often become a serious training issue.

In moderation, all of the above types of barking are perfectly normal. However, excessive barking can become a pathological problem for your dog, leading to obsessive-compulsive behavior, which can disrupt your home, your community, and even endanger your dog’s life if ignored.

The first step to curb excessive barking is to rule out possible underlying medical causes. Dogs who bark excessively may be suffering from separation anxiety, cognitive disorders, chronic diseases, or pain. These problems typically cause the dog to feel more anxious and restless, making them more likely to respond vocally to stimuli. Older dogs, in particular, may begin to suffer from neurological changes, hearing and vision loss, more frequent trips to relieve themselves, and discomfort—all of which may make them more prone to vocalizing.

Genetics can also play a part in excessive barking. Breeds such as hounds, dogs bred as watchdogs, and many working breeds are more prone to excessive barking.

Once medical causes have been ruled out, it’s important to examine the dog’s living situation to identify obvious causes of the barking that could be altered to provide fewer stimuli. For instance, a dog that sits by a window all day and barks at passing people might be easily remedied by installing a set of curtains. If your dog barks while outside and you are gone for the day, try changing their scenery by bringing them inside or finding a quieter indoor area to confine them with fewer distractions. Dogs left outside in the yard tend to bark more in response to boredom and loneliness, so increasing your interaction with them and going for more frequent walks can help satisfy their needs and curb the barking.

Behavior modification aims to address the underlying causes of the behavior while changing the dog’s response to stimuli through positive reinforcement. Consulting with a dog trainer or behaviorist will greatly increase your chances of success with behavior modification. It is easiest to accomplish with younger dogs that are still more trainable, and investing in proper training while they are young will improve your relationship in the long run.

A more severe form of behavior modification involves anti-bark collars, which use negative reinforcement to teach the dog not to bark. These collars come in two basic forms. The electrical stimulation collar automatically delivers a small shock to the dog when he barks. If the barking continues, the strength of the shock is increased until the barking stops. Because the collar is automated, you do not need to be present for it to correct your dog’s behavior. When your dog is quiet, no correction occurs.

Citronella collars are similar to electrical stimulation collars, but instead of a shock, they deliver a sudden mist of herbal spray into the dog’s face. Because dogs naturally have an aversion to citronella, they learn to avoid the correction by reducing their barking.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often bark excessively and may not respond as well to behavior modification and training as other dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend medication to reduce anxiety, in addition to behavior modification exercises, to make your dog more comfortable.

Although excessive barking can be one of the most frustrating and disruptive habits to curb, a careful approach using a combination of training, behavior modification, and potentially training aids or medication can help reduce your dog’s barking, restoring peace to your household.

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Common Causes of Digging and How to Address Them

This is one of the most challenging issues that dog owners face. It’s also important to remember that digging is a natural behavior and an enjoyable pastime for dogs. If your dog loves digging, consider providing him with his own digging pit—just as parents would provide their children with a sandbox. Take some of his favorite dog toys and let him see you burying them. Call him over and help him dig them up. Once your dog learns that digging in his pit is an acceptable and enjoyable activity, you can teach him that digging elsewhere is not allowed.

The first step is to teach your dog to stay away from your flower and vegetable gardens. Each time he approaches the wrong area, quietly warn him by saying “Off.” If he stays away, immediately praise him. Over time, he will learn to avoid those areas (unless there’s something really interesting under those bushes). If Woofer continues to dig all over the place—tearing into rugs or couches—it could indicate something more serious, such as stress or boredom. If you’re unsure of the reason for your dog’s digging, try observing him without his knowledge. When a dog feels he’s left to his own devices, he will follow his usual routine, which may include digging. This observation can help you uncover the source of his digging behavior.

Your dog needs to be mentally challenged every day. If you don’t provide him with sufficient stimulation, he will find ways to entertain himself. Dogs may dig for various reasons: to seek entertainment, attention, comfort, escape, prey, or protection. (Despite what it might feel like at times, your dog won’t dig out of spite, revenge, or a desire to destroy your yard.) If your dog digs to escape or protect himself from elements like heat, cold, or water, make sure he has a sturdy, insulated doghouse suited to the weather. Ensure he has a large, sturdy water dish that’s always full and monitor him to avoid any issues. Some owners even bury bricks and chicken wire under fences to prevent dogs from digging underneath them. If you choose this approach, place the bricks over the wire to prevent injury. You don’t want to find that Woofer has cut his paw, leading to an expensive trip to the vet.

It’s also important to remember that certain breeds are more prone to digging than others. Terriers, for example, are natural diggers, bred to hunt rodents and other small creatures. Despite all the training you can provide, some dogs will continue to dig, and perhaps not in the designated area you’ve set for them. You may also have to accept that your dog will occasionally run up to you, covered in mud from a fun digging session, only to go for a drink of water afterward. But what can you do? Let out a loud sigh and take him for a bath.

Regardless of how things turn out, remember that you have to love Woofer just the way he is.

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However, dogs growl for more reasons than just defense, and many are great talkers (not barkers — talkers). Each type of growl has its own meaning, body language, and way to respond appropriately. Learning what your dog is ‘saying’ with each growl will help you understand them better.

The Mean or Offensive Growl

The Mean Growl is distinct, and if you ever find yourself on the wrong end of this warning, you’ll clearly understand what the dog is trying to communicate. The dog is on the defense, and his body language is intense, focused entirely on you. His ears are forward, and he is on his toes, leaning into the growl. His lips are severely curled, but his mouth is often partially closed. His hackles are raised, and his tail is up, arched over his back. Everything about his body is pointed in your direction, telling you, “Come any closer, and I will attack.” This dog is serious, and no one wants to be on the receiving end of this growl.

The best way to diffuse the situation is to slowly back away. Do not make eye contact, speak quietly in a calm, happy voice, and avoid any sudden movements. He may match your retreat step for step, but no matter how much you might want to, do not turn and run. Get out of the situation and find somewhere safe.

The Warning or Defensive Growl

A defensive dog is more hesitant and, in many ways, more dangerous than the offensive dog. This dog is fearful and unsure of his ability to protect himself, making him harder to predict.

His body language is pulled back compared to the offensive dog. His ears are flat and pointed back, his teeth are showing, but his lips are pulled severely back. He leans away from you, possibly at an angle, rather than facing you straight on. His hackles are up, but his tail may be down, at an odd angle, or tucked under his belly.

The defensive dog does not want a confrontation but may attack to show his strength in a bluff move (think of a cat trying to appear bigger in the face of danger). If he does attack, he will bite and run, not hold on. Again, backing away slowly is your best course of action, but keep an eye on him. This is the type of dog that may try a sneak attack if you turn your back. Face to face, he is unlikely to attack with force.

The Play Growl

Dogs also growl when playing with each other. If you’ve ever listened to a litter of puppies, it sounds like World War III. Growling is normal communication for dogs, and in a play situation, it’s similar to a human egging on the other during a pillow fight. It’s meant to encourage the desired behavior, not to be aggressive.

The body language of a play growl is alert but relaxed. The lips are loose, covering the teeth, ears are in their natural play position, hackles are down, and the tail is in its typical play position. This is not a serious situation unless you’re the toy!

Depending on your personal situation, you might want to discourage this growl behavior. For example, if you have children or their friends often visit, a play growl may scare a child who is not used to being around a dog. Additionally, if you have a large or giant breed, a play growl could seem much more intimidating than it would with a small dog.

The Talkie Growl

Some dogs communicate by barking, while others give you ‘the look’ and some use a growl to get your attention. In this case, the dog’s body language is neutral or suggestive of “follow me.” They are alert, but comfortable in their surroundings. In terms of doggy-human communication, this is usually worth paying attention to, as it often means they need something right away — like going outside, their water dish is empty, or perhaps the house is on fire. You know, just the essentials that they want you to take care of immediately, not in a few minutes.

Dogs growl for many reasons, and each growl has its own meaning. By learning to read your dog’s moods and body language, you’ll better understand what they are telling you. However, keep in mind that not all dogs communicate in the same way, so if an unknown dog is growling at you, always take it seriously — back away and do not approach again until the owner is present.

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Puppies communicate with their littermates by making all sorts of noises—growling, mewing, yipping, chattering, howling, and, of course, barking. They quickly learn that barking gets the most immediate response—either mom comes running or a littermate quickly pounces. When they go to their new home, they have no idea that barking is not acceptable, so training must begin right away.

Training a Puppy vs. Training an Adult Dog

With a young puppy, it is hard to correct the behavior in the same way you would correct an adult. Puppies do not know what the word ‘no’ means yet, and using methods such as a spray bottle may be too harsh for a new pup. However, training them in a passive manner does work. Once they understand the word ‘no,’ switching to typical training methods will help continue the progress. Training a dog not to bark can be just as challenging as training them to use large dog doors when they need to go to the bathroom.

‘Passive methods’ refer to approaches that do not involve typical corrections, but instead use the pup’s own language to train them. For example, if the pup is barking to be let out of his crate, do not let him out until he is quiet. If he is barking for his dinner, do not feed him until he is quiet. If he is barking at his toy, do not throw it for him. By reacting neither positively nor negatively to his noise, he will learn that barking does not get him the results it did when he was still with his littermates and mother. Instead, he must learn to ask for what he wants in a different way—by bringing you his toy, standing by his food dish, and whining when he needs out of his crate.

When he is lying down quietly or playing peacefully, tell him ‘good boy, good quiet.’ The first time he stands by his food dish to let you know he is hungry, reward him immediately so he knows without a doubt that that was the correct way to ask.

But what happens if you adopt an adult dog that already barks, or even after all your good intentions, he is still a barker? Don’t worry, it’s not too late.

First, stick with the rules listed above—ignore him when he barks and reward him when he is quiet. An adult dog already knows what the word ‘no’ or an ‘ah ah ah’ noise means—stop what you are doing immediately. Part of the trick is to stay calm yourself. Too often, we escalate the problem by getting upset at the dog, which either makes him think this is a fun game or that there must be a good reason to bark if ‘mom’ is so upset.

Lastly, stopping the bark before it happens is important. It may sound crazy, but it’s easy to read a dog’s mind if you pay attention. Watch his facial expressions, and you will soon learn his ‘pre-barking’ face. Many dogs open their mouths and pause before they bark. Others will twist their ears around, get a wild look in their eyes, or look away from you for a second. The easy ones do all three. As soon as you see a change in his mannerisms and you know he is about to bark, say ‘no’ firmly or ‘no bark’ if he understands the word. He will probably close his mouth and give you an odd look like, ‘How did you know what I was about to do?’ Stopping the thought process before it becomes an action is the most effective way to train a dog for anything—not just barking.

Persistence and patience are the keys to training your dog not to bark. Some breeds are more difficult than others, but the system is the same—discourage inappropriate barking while encouraging quiet methods of communication.

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Beating your dog over his little accidents is a clear sign that you are not in control of the situation, both in the world of humans and that of canines. You want to educate him, not challenge him. He wants to make you happy and earn your approval.

Effective Potty Training Tips

If you have decided to crate train, potty training will be much easier. After all, most dogs will not use their crate as a bathroom, and provided you take them outside right away when you let them out, they’ll get the message sooner rather than later. Be sure to reward him for his efforts. If he’s a puppy, you may have to carry him outside when you initially start the process. You’ll likely get excited bursts of trickles as he runs for the door, and if he’s particularly wound up, he may not make it at all.

Most people adopt a puppy at 8 weeks of age. While emotionally, we believe this age is an appropriate time for the puppy to leave his mother, some breeders are realizing that 12 weeks seems to be better. At 8 weeks, there is still a lot of underdevelopment happening in his little body, especially his bladder. Their bladders don’t develop to the point of maturation until about 12 to 16 weeks. Thus, even when crate training, accidents can happen. Keep your puppy’s age in mind before you get too aggravated. That would be the same as expecting your one-and-a-half-year-old to learn to use the potty—it’s a bit early due to physical development, not emotional readiness.

Whether you are crate training or paper training, don’t allow your not-quite-housebroken pal to roam around the entire house. You will find that he will choose rooms that aren’t regularly used as his toilet. Keep him confined to where the family is. This not only allows someone to keep a gentle eye on his needs but also helps him understand that there is living going on in these rooms. Dogs don’t like to use their living space as a toilet. If you notice that one room seems to be getting less human use and more toilet use, block that room off as well. Sometimes we are unaware of our habits until there is a reason to study them.

Even if you have closed off most of the house to your dog’s access, when you leave the house, he will need additional confinement. Whether you use a crate or not, if he is left to wander, he is left to his own devices. Dogs who are left to their own devices tend to get into trouble. Set up a place that you know he’ll be comfortable in (and nothing will be ruined if he messes up), and place a dog gate across the doorway. Don’t just close the door. He’s likely to scratch and claw, and that will just ruin the door.

Set yourself up in a potty training routine. When everyone wakes up in the morning, take the dog out and reward him. If he eats his meal in the morning, wait five minutes and take the dog out, then reward him. When he wakes up from his naps, take the dog out, reward him. Before you leave the house, take the dog out, reward him. Upon returning home, take the dog out, reward him.

Dogs will usually need to go to the bathroom when they wake up, after serious playtime, and about five minutes after they eat. By setting yourself on a schedule that allows him to go as his body naturally would, your chances of success are much greater.

Your little guy is going to have accidents. Consider them your accidents, not his. If he’s having accidents in the house, realize that you’ve either missed his cues or you broke the schedule. Use a simple noise to correct him, like a low grumble growl that expresses your displeasure, and take him directly outside, even before you clean it up. If he does the right things out there, reward him despite your displeasure about what’s left for you inside. Hopefully, you have a second pair of hands that can clean it up while you’re outside with the pup.

Rewarding your dog for a job well done is the biggest key to getting them to understand what you want from them. Your expectations, regardless of their age, are new to them. No matter how much they wag their tail and slop you with kisses, if you can’t communicate your expectations, they will forever fail you.

Potty training a dog is simple, but not easy. Because we are an emotional species, we tend to allow our emotions to become an interfering factor in our dog training. We get frustrated, and sometimes hurt and angry. After all, we’re giving them everything they need in life, so why can’t they just stop making messes in our homes? They will, as soon as they understand what it is you truly expect and accept your desires as their own. They just need your leadership.

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Try to avoid the fight

If you have two dogs at home who don’t get along, there are some things you can do to minimize their “issues.” Dogs often fight over territory, food, toys, and jealousy. They could fight over things like their favorite sleeping spot, for example. Or if you have intact dogs, then a girl in season can cause fights. Sometimes dogs fight over their owner’s attention.

If your dogs are fighting over food at mealtime, you can separate them when they eat. Feed them in separate rooms or in crates. This can prevent fights and you can make sure that both dogs are eating their own food instead of growling at each other. If your dogs are fighting over a particular toy, remove the toy. If the dogs are fighting over your attention, try to make special time for each dog to receive some attention.

In these cases it helps if the dogs learn some obedience training. Not only will this training give you some good bonding time with each dog, but it will reinforce your role as the one in charge. Obedience training also increases the chances that your dogs will listen to you if they begin to posture and glare at each other.

If your dogs do start to show signs that they might be headed for a fight it often helps to distract them with something they like. Get out a ball or toy and call them for a game in the yard. Get their minds off each other. Keep things cheerful. Or you can separate them, if you can do so safely, and put them in separate rooms or separate crates, until they cool off.

Breaking up a Dog Fight at Home

As a last resort, if your dogs are actually fighting, there are several things you can do to break up a fight. One thing that I have found effective if the dogs are outside is turning a hose on them. The shock of the cold water will usually make them stop fighting, at least long enough for you to move the aggressor indoors and stop the fight.

If the dogs are indoors you can fill up a pitcher or pot with cold water and pour it on them to achieve the same effect. They should stop fighting long enough for you to move one of the dogs to a separate room or crate.

You can also throw a blanket over the dogs to stop a fight. This makes it harder for them to see and hinders them enough to slow down the fight. You can grab one of the dogs and separate them.

Warning

Whenever you are trying to break up a dog fight you should proceed with extreme care. People are bitten all the time when trying to interfere between two dogs. It’s not because the dogs are trying to bite you. Dogs in a dog fight are more or less in a fighting frenzy, with jaws snapping in every direction. If your hand or arm, or even leg gets in the way, it will get bitten. (One of my earliest memories is hearing about my aunt being bitten while trying to break up a dog fight.) Dogs in this situation are not necessarily vicious but the adrenaline is pumping and they are in a serious fight. You can get hurt.

Stay away from the head, mouth, and front of the dogs. Don’t try to reach for the dog’s collar, at least not until he is well clear of the other dog. It’s best to try to handle the dog from the ribs back to lessen your chance of being bitten accidentally. If you can throw a blanket on the dog and handle him through the blanket, that’s better.

It’s not easy when you have two dogs in your household that don’t get alone. In most cases one of the dogs will eventually assert his dominance and the other dog will accept a secondary position, but there may still be dust-ups occasionally. You might want to consider re-homing one of the dogs if the fights continue.

Breaking up Dog Fights Outside the Home

There are also times when your dog may be accosted outside the home. You could be minding your own business, walking your dog, and another dog attacks him. Or, things could get out of hand in a dog park. In some cases, it might be your dog that attacks another dog, no matter how loving and sweet he is with you. Here’s some help about how to break up a dog fight outside the home.

Avoiding a fight

There are some things that people recommend to help avoid a dog fight:

• Carry an umbrella
• Carry pepper spray if it’s legal in your area
• Carry an air horn

You get the idea. All of these things can be used to defend yourself and your dog if another dog attacks you.

Another thing you can do is learn to read a dog’s body language. The sooner you recognize that another dog is approaching you with hostile intentions, the better. This allows you time to decide what to do. If you have a small dog you can pick him up. If you have a large dog you can tell him to heel and then turn to leave.

In most cases it’s best to turn and walk away slowly. Don’t yell, don’t run, don’t act scared. Just walk away with your dog. Do NOT stand and make eye contact with the other dog.

Breaking up a fight

If your dog is attacked by another dog outside the home, the first thing you need to do is drop your leash. Holding your dog back with the leash puts him at a disadvantage and he could be seriously injured. Allow him to defend himself.

Next, stay calm. It’s a dog fight and that’s bad but it will be over quickly. You can stop the fight. In most cases the attacker will be on top of the other dog so you need to wait and watch until you have a clear opportunity to grab the dog on top by his tail and/or rear legs and pull him off. Even if he’s a large dog and you’re a small person, you can do this. Grab his tail at the base and pull him off, keeping him off balance. Then start moving him in a circle to keep him off balance. This will look like you’re rolling a wheelbarrow. This should allow the other dog to get up and, we hope, move away. If there is another person nearby they can grab the other dog. If you have a leash with you, you can snap the leash on the dog you are moving in a circle so you can get him away from the scene. If he’s not wearing a collar, then tie the leash around his neck and move him away. If you have no leash, slowly circle him away from the scene. Improvise if you have to.

If there is more than one person with you, you can both grab the dogs and pull them apart by the tail and rear legs. Get leashes on them if possible. Remember that when you pull them apart by the tail and rear legs you need to keep moving them in circles so they are off balance. They will have to work on keeping their balance and won’t be able to worry about the fight.

When you separate dogs this way, you may not end up holding your own dog. Don’t be surprised if the dog’s owner is not happy with you or blames you or yells at you. So be it. It doesn’t matter. Stopping the fight is what’s important, especially if you can stop it without getting bitten. Everyone is upset when there’s a dog fight and people are defensive about their dogs. They might say things they regret later. Don’t worry about it. Just take your dog and check him out.

With any luck you have stopped the fight quickly and the dogs are not seriously hurt and no people have been bitten.

Fights with more than two dogs

If your dog is attacked by more than one dog it’s a bad situation and you really need help to break up the fight. If you have anything with you, such as an air horn, this would be a good time to use it. Try to call for nearby help as quickly as possible. It will probably take more than one person to remove the attacking dogs.

If possible, the best thing to do is try to avoid multiple loose dogs when you seem them approaching you and your dog. If the owners of the dogs are with them, they should try to help get the dogs to stop.

Dog fights can be dangerous not just for your dog but also for you. Remember to be careful and don’t put your hand or any part of your body near your dog’s face or head when trying to break up a dog fight. In most cases you can break up a fight, even in public, if you use the “wheelbarrow” approach and grab the top dog by the tail and rear legs, then keep him off balance by moving in circles. Good luck and stay safe.

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Either way, crate training offers a lot of security to both the dog and the owner once the training becomes part of daily life. It is not cruel. Recently, we watched a friend’s dog for two weeks. Her crate came with her, at our insistence, and it was the only place where she felt completely secure while her family was away. This provided everyone with their own space—a place to sleep, relax, and wait for us to come home. Crates give dogs a sense of security when their world is off-kilter.

The Rules of Crate Training

The first rule of crate training is to never use the crate as a form of punishment. Doing so will only create negative feelings toward the crate, making it an unpleasant experience for your dog. Imagine how your dog would feel if you slammed him in there after an accident, and then put him in the crate the next day while you went to work. He would be confined for ten hours without knowing why he’s being punished. It can be tempting to put them away until you’re ready to deal with them, but this is cruel—especially when done regularly. Your pup will not understand that he’s not being punished.

Your crate is designed to keep your dog safe. You’d rather he not chew on your razor or eat glass while you’re not paying attention, so the crate provides a safe place. Keep it simple by placing a few necessities, like a soft blanket. Avoid placing toys that could be hazardous, such as those he might dismantle and swallow, as this can make life dangerous for him. Also, never place him in a crate wearing a choker collar, as this can lead to a disaster. Rawhides can pose similar risks. While it’s fine to include safe toys in the crate, understanding what is “safe” requires both research and knowledge of your dog’s habits. Some dogs are excellent at chewing through plastic, while others are more refined in their choices.

If you’re crate training a puppy, remember that he will grow. As an adult, your dog will need ample space in the crate. He should be able to stand without hunching over, turn around, scratch an itch, and settle into a comfortable position. If he can’t do these things without touching the top of the crate, it’s too small. Placing a dog in a crate that’s too small is cruel. Most pet supply stores can help you choose the right crate size for your puppy, keeping growth in mind. You can make the crate smaller during his youth by using a partition to close off the back portion. This may be necessary if he’s using the back of the crate as a toilet.

Part of the beauty of crate training is its ease in housebreaking. If the crate is too large, however, your clever pup might find ways to satisfy all his needs within the crate. If your puppy is urinating or defecating in his crate despite its appropriate size, take him to the vet. You might be leaving him alone for too long, or there could be a health issue. Dogs don’t like living in their fecal matter, unless they’ve been acquired from a puppy mill. If you brought your dog home covered in his own feces, he may not be able to control himself—another reason to avoid supporting puppy mills.

Successful crate training relies on knowledge. Before you begin, thoroughly research crate training to understand how to handle any problems that arise. Most dogs will follow the process described in the books, acting and reacting as expected. However, some dogs may challenge this theory, proving it wrong by acting in ways the books don’t predict. While rare, it does happen. In such cases, the more knowledgeable you are, the better prepared you’ll be to deal with your dog’s sudden fears, behavioral issues, and other challenges.

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The Science Behind Clicker Training

When an animal intentionally performs a behavior to bring about a desired consequence, as clicker-trained animals do, they are learning through what researchers call “operant conditioning.” Animals (and people) may also associate an action, event, place, person, or object with a consequence, whether pleasant or unpleasant. The more a certain event or environment is paired with a particular consequence, the stronger the association becomes. This type of learning is called “classical conditioning” and represents reflexive or automatic behavior, rather than intentional behavior.

While clicker training initially employs classical conditioning, it quickly shifts to operant conditioning as soon as the animal intentionally repeats an action to earn a reward. Training through operant conditioning results in purposeful behavior, while training through classical conditioning leads to habitual behavior.

The difference between an animal that behaves with purpose versus by habit is vast. Clicker-trained or operantly conditioned animals actively try to learn new behaviors. They remember behaviors even years later because they were aware of them as they learned them, rather than acquiring them without awareness. They develop confidence because they have control over the consequences of their actions. They are enthusiastic because they expect those consequences to be pleasurable.

The essential difference between clicker training and other reward-based training is that the animal is told exactly which behavior earned it a reward. This information is communicated with a distinct and unique sound: the click, which occurs at the same time as the desired behavior. The reward follows immediately after. Without hearing a click during an action, an animal may not connect the reward with that action. Or, the animal may associate the reward with another, unwanted action. With the click, a trainer can precisely “mark” the behavior, so the animal knows exactly what it was doing. That’s why clicker trainers refer to the click as an “event marker.” The click also bridges or connects the behavior and its reward, and so is also called a “bridging signal.”

A click is more powerful for training than a spoken word because it is not a sound the animal hears in other circumstances. It means one thing only: a reward is coming because of what you did when you heard the click. It can be produced instantly and at the exact moment a behavior occurs. Even a very quick and subtle behavior, such as the twitch of an ear, can be clicked.

Unlike our voices, which can say the same word in different ways and express different emotions or meanings, the click sounds the same every time it is heard. Its meaning never varies. Humans are highly verbal creatures, but our pets are not. It can be difficult for them to pick out a single word from the stream of meaningless words they hear us speak every day. The click’s meaning, however, is always clear. It is always directed at the animal, and it is always good news. The clarity with which a click enables trainers to communicate with their animals has a profound effect on their relationships. Their level of interaction increases, and both the trainer and the animal become more interesting and fun for each other.

The trainer clicks at the moment the behavior occurs: the horse raises its hoof, the trainer clicks simultaneously. The dog sits, the trainer clicks. Clicking is like taking a picture of the behavior the trainer wishes to reinforce. After “taking the picture,” the trainer gives the animal something it likes—usually a small piece of food, but sometimes play, petting, or other rewards. Very soon (sometimes within two or three clicks), an animal will associate the sound of the click with something it likes: the reward. Since the animal wants to repeat that pleasurable experience, it will repeat the action it was doing when it heard the click.

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The Importance of Dog Obedience Training

Why is this a loving action? Because dogs need certain things from their humans. When we agree to bring them into our homes and make them part of our families, we commit to providing them with what they need. Our responsibility to them means we pledge to give them food, shelter, medical care, companionship, and a place in the pack. If we want to give them a place in the pack, we need to choose what that place will be. If we don’t, they will take it upon themselves to choose their own place—and, of course, they’ll aim for the top. Offering them a clear place in the pack gives them security. Choosing their place for them not only provides peace of mind but also helps ensure we have a reliable, well-behaved dog.

A good dog is priceless. When your dog can be counted on to be around someone’s child, your own child, or walk down the street without terrorizing the neighborhood, you’re definitely going to enjoy him more. But when your dog needs to be constantly crated when there’s company or must be walked late at night just so he won’t threaten anyone, you still love him—but you’re slowly becoming less of his biggest fan. The tough part about this realization is that it’s not his fault.

Dogs respond to what the humans give them to respond to. They have a very small “thinking brain” but a very large “reaction brain.” When you tell your dog to sit, he responds. He doesn’t think about it. When you tell him to sit and he refuses, he’s still responding—he’s responding based on his long-term knowledge that he doesn’t have to listen because there’s no reason for him to. This is frustrating, to say the least. So, when your dog decides to take himself for a walk around the neighborhood, he isn’t expecting consequences, and who knows what those consequences might be? He feels like the leader because you haven’t given him leadership.

As humans, we are quick to blame the dog. We assume that because we did everything the book said, and he’s responding accordingly, something must be wrong with the dog—or the book. We rarely look at ourselves. Enrolling in dog obedience training forces us to evaluate ourselves as leaders when our dog isn’t responding properly.

Not all dog training classes will work for every dog. In fact, some dogs are naturally more pliable and will respond positively with little effort. Other dogs are more stubborn by nature and may require a different approach. Just like humans, not all dogs learn at the same rate or respond to the same type of training. I don’t know that there’s anything more frustrating than sitting in a class with ten other dogs, watching their perfect behavior, while your dog is tangling himself up at the end of the leash, rolling on his back, and playing his own game when he’s supposed to be sitting. They have a way of making us feel downright incompetent.

Your main goal in training classes is to learn to communicate effectively with your dog. If one class isn’t doing much more than frustrating you and making you feel incompetent, you might need to reconsider the instructor’s style. Most large chain companies will allow you to either request a refund or switch to a new set of classes with a different instructor. How you proceed is entirely up to you.

Don’t forget to evaluate yourself. If things aren’t going well in class, ask the instructor to observe your interaction with your pup. Give him several commands. In fact, classrooms should install mirrors so that participants can see themselves. You might think you’re standing tall and straight while giving an order, but without the ability to watch yourself, it can be very difficult to discern what your body is actually doing. Having someone who can correct you will help you correct your dog much more than you might realize.

Dog obedience training is one of those unspoken promises we make to our furry friends when we adopt them into our homes and hearts. It is part of the responsibility of owning these precious animals. Because owning a dog has become so commonplace, many people forget the unique grace, intelligence, and majestic beauty that these gentle creatures bring to our over-complicated world. Our promises to them are sacred.

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